The Preaching Tours and Missionary Labours of George Müller of Bristol

Author: Susannah Grace Sangar Müller Date: 1889 Pages: 337
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By Müller's daughter, recounting his later preaching journeys.

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About Google Book Search Google’s mission is to organize the world’s information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world’s books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at http://books.google.com/ PRESENTED TO THE I LIBRARY OF THE U.:\'IVER.SITY OF MICHIGA~:i §!~ ...Aic. .... ~,.. ......................... _jI : /. . j __.~ .. -·················•···•······························ ✓tY f ........ ,i . ·- - -- --·- 13Y 3 7 g'5 .M7s M 'l I f:55'1 THE· 6 (4 tr0 PREACHING TOURS AND OF GEORGE MULLER (OF BRISTOL.) BY MRS. MULLER. S E C O N D E DI T ION. 1889. LONDON: J. NISBET & Co., BERNERS STREET, TO BE BAD ALSO IN BRISTOL, AT TBB BIBLE AND TRACT W ABE• BOUSE OF THE 80RIPTUBAL KNOWLEDGE INSTITUTION FOB HOKE AlllD ABROAD, NO. 78, PARK STREET j AND THROUGH ALL BOOKSELLERS. DRVDBN PRESS: J. DAVY AND SONS, 137, LONG ACRE, LONDON, w.c. [.All Right,s.Resenied.] ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL. INTRODUCTION. BEFORE the perusal of this book is entered upon, it seems desirable that I should myself state to the reader, what led me to undertake these missionary Tours. It may be well to refer also to the objects I had particularly in view iD:connection with them ; to mention how far the desired result has been attained ; and to notice a few other points relating to these journeys. During many years the thought occurred to me again and again, that it might be the will of God I should seek to benefit His children and the uncon- verted, not through my publications only, but by ministering personally amongst them in other places besides Bristol ; but my position as pastor of a large church, and as Director of a great Institution, which seemed to require my constant presence, for a long time put aside the thought. At last, however, when staying in the Isle of Wight in the autumn of 1874, finding that my preaching at Ventnor and Ryde had been un.usually blessed and valued, I judged, that, having very efficient fellow labourers in the Church at Bristol, I could be spared, and that my absence INTRODUCTION. would not be particularly felt. With reference to the work on Ashley Down, too, as Mr. Wright had for many years been an able helper in connection with it; as he had by that time been appointed Assistant Director ()f the Institution ; and as I had laboured in word and doctrine in Bristol (almost exclusively) for forty-three years; it was laid upon my heart to go from city to city, and from country to country, in order to benefit (if possible) both the Church of God and the world at large, by my ministry and experience. Accordingly, after much prayer and waiting upon God, I decided upon de- voting a very considerable portion of my time habitqally to this service, as long as health and strength should be continued to me. The objects I have in view in undert3:king these tours are the following :__:_ 1. To preach the Gospel in the si~plest way pos- sible, that persons may understand how the blessing, which sinners receive through faith in Christ, is to be obtained. Many who are really in ~arnest about their salvation, are nevertheless without peace, because they rest upon their feelings. They do not see that every one, who is convinced that he is a lost sinner by nature, and confesses this before God, passes sentence upon himself (so to speak), that, if he depends solely on the perfect obedienc.e of the INTRODUCTION. V Lord Jesus unto death, even the death on the oross, and upon His substitutional sacrifice, he receives the forgiveness of all his sins, is justified the moment he believes in Jesus, and shall not perish, but have ever- lasting life. Rom. v. 1 ; Acts x. 43 ; John iii. 16. 2. During my pastoral labours for many years I found, that numbers of true children of God are without the knowledge of their standing in Christ. They do not enter into the fact, that they have passed from death unto life, that they are regenerated, par- doned, justified, accepted in the Beloved, and are no longer under condemnation. Now, having entered into all this experimentally for more than half a century myself, I desire (with the help of God) to bring others also to an app~ehension of these bles- sings ; and how greatly this service is needed, is obvious from the fact, that there are great numbers of preachers of the Gospel and pastors, who, being without the knowledge of their own personal salva- tion, are, in consequence, entirely destitute of any real peace and joy in the Lord. 3. Another object I aim at is, to bring Christians back to the Holy Scriptures; ·to urge them to try everything by the word of God, and to value that only, which will stand this test. I endeavour, the~e- fore, to lead believers to become loversof the Bible, by exhorting them to a daily, systematic, consecu- INTRODUCTION. tive reading and study of it; for I know from an ex- perience of more than half a century the blessedness of doing this myself, and also what loss I experienced, . during the first three years after my conversion, from not attending to it. 4. Further, I aim at a removal of sectarianism, at promoting. brotherly love amongst true Christians ; and with this object in. view go amongst all real believers, by whatever name they are called,prwided they are sound in-the foundation truths of our holy faith. Though not agreeing_at all with some of their opinions and practices, I nevertheless preach amongst all, having seen for many years how greatly the heart of the Lord Jesus must be grieved by the disunion that exists among His own true disciples. On this account, therefore, I have sought to unite all real believers ; but, as this cannot be done, by standing aloof from our brethren in Christ, until they see eye to eye with us in every point, I have gone a~ongst them, and have united with them, in so far as notning has been required of me which I could not do with a good conscience. 5. As for more than half a century I have seen how very little real trust in the living God there is, even amongst true Christians, I have sought also, in .these my missionary tours particularly, to strengthen their faith ; because, in the course of my pastoral j INTRODUCTION, vii labours, the blessed results of real confidence in God on the one hand have come to my knowledge, and the. misery of distrusting Him also on the other. 6: Both in my public ministry of the Word, and in private intercourse with Christians, I seek t~ lead my fellow disciples to more real separation from the world and deadness to it, and to promote heavenly mindedness in , them, according to the Scriptures. At the same time, however, I warn them against extravagances,such as sinless perfection in the flesh, which are not to be found in the Word of God. 7. As the Lord enables me, I give instruction also about the true character of the present dispensation and the end thereof, and strive to lead the Church of God to look for the second coming of Christ as her great hope. In these nine long missionary tours, I have gladly embraced every opportunity also of having meetings with ministers and pastors of Churches, both for the sake of encouraging them in their service, and that I might benefit them through my own experi- ence of fifty-seven years in the ministry of the Word.· I have availed myself too of every oppor- tunity of addressing students in Universities, Theo- logical Seminaries, and Colleges, and have had oppor- tunities likewise of addressing 1,000 or 1,500 Chris- viii ' INTRODUCTION, ~ian workers at a time, and of seeking to benefit them by my experience. This kind of work I ~ave now been able to do in twenty-two different coun- tries; for, after having spent a considerable time in such labour in England, Scotland and Ireland, I was led· in the providence of God to Switzerland, Ger- many, Holland, France, Spain, Italy, Canada, the United States, Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, Turkey, Greece, Austria, Hungary, Bohemia, Russia and Russian Poland. The reader may now be desirous of asking-" And what has been the result of all this service ? " My reply is-The day of the Lord alone will reveal it. Here on earth but little can be known, comparatively, of the fruit of our labours ; yet, as far as I have been permitted to see, even here,there is good reason to believe, that I have not been directed to one single place, regarding which there was not manifest proof that the Lord sent me there, on account of the visible blessing which rested on my labours. It may be desirable also to state, why an account of these missionary tours has been published in thris form, as several of these journeys have already been ref~rred to in the Reports of .the Scriptural Know- ledge Institution. The reason is, that in the Reports a very brief account only of them has been given, and that always in ·detached portions. Now, as my INTRODUCTION. lX dear 'wife has invariably accompanied me in all my long travels, and has kept a journal regularly of my labours for the Lord, we judged that a connected and much fuller account of them might be given in a book, than· could be published in any other manner. Through a perusal of this Narrative it is hoped, also, that Christians ;may be led to give the:m,selvesto prayer for blessing on this my past service, and that God may help me in any f~ture labours, to which, in His providence, I may yet be called. We con- sidered likewise, that, in this way, Christians may be led to give themselves to prayer for the countries in which I have been labouring; and, lastly, that, with · God's blessing, experienced and instructed brethren and pastors may be led to devote the evening of their life to similar service. God has been pleased within the last twenty-five years to raise up thousands for evangelistic work ; but, it is well known that there are· comparatively very few who labour amongst the Churches,and can bring the experience of a long life in the service of the Lord to bear upon the asseml:Jlies of Christians whom they visit. If, through the reading of this book, God should be pleased to in- cline the hearts of experienced and godly servants of Christ, to devote their declining years to the visiting of Okurches,both my dear wife and myself shall con- sider ourselves abundantly recompensed for our X INTRODUCTION. attempt to serve Him by publishing this Narrative. Hundreds of times, both separately and unitedly, we have besought our Heavenly Father to bless this labour for Him, and we are sure that He will gra- ciously answer our request. It now remaµis only, that I say a few words re- garding the photograph, which is given in this book. During the last thirty years I have been asked many hundreds of times, both verbally and in writing, for my likeness ; bu~ my reply has invariably been : " As I do not wish to direct attention to myself, but to my Lord and Master, I must decline to comply with your request." Notwithstanding this, however, appli- cations for my portrait have been continued, and are still made more than ever. Twenty years ago I was offered £500, if I would allow it to be published ; but the offer was declined for the reasons alr~ady given. Since we have been travelling about, in almost every town or city, where I have laboured, with very rare exception, this request has been re- newed ; and ·very often has been made by many residing in the same place. Again and again photo- graphers, brethren in Christ, have called and begged me to let tMm take my likeness, because so many- friends desired to possess it. Whilst at St. Peters- burg, a Christian gentleman· came to see me, who, together with his wife, after a state of long spiritual INTRODUCTION. xi deadness, had bej;ln revived in soul through my ministry, and on taking leave of me, with the proba- bility that we should never meet again on earth, begged earnestly for my photograph; but I gave the answer, which has always been given under such cir- cumstances. As recently as during my last stay in London, I received a letter from a photographer, stating that a servant of Christ, who was going to pub- lish the photographs of certain well-known pastors and teachers, desired particularly to include mine amongst the rest ; but his application succeeded no better than others of the same kind have done. This very day on which I .am now writing, another request for my photograph has been made to me by letter, and many hundreds of times have I thus been entreated for my likeness, but in vain. And what has been the result of all this? In con- sequence of my steadfast refusal to be photographed, several representationsof me (for likenessesthey can- not be called, as I never sat for one of them) have been published, without my knowledge and against my will. A religious periodical, extensively circu- lated in America, containing one of these portraits, has gone all through the United States. An enter- prising photographer tried once to secure my likeness too, by an instantaneous process, as I was driving in an open ·carriage up a hill, but was foiled in the xii INTRODUCTION. attempt. A portrait of George Mii.Tulralso, with a most doleful expression of countenance, conveying not the slightest idea of the happy man he really is, has been going the round, and occasionally has come before me, even i~ the houses of my best friends. In the fear of God, therefore, I have come to this conclusion : · Since the public insist upon having a portrait of me, whether I like to give it or whether I do not, let my beloved Christian friends at least have a photograph that is a real and not a false representation of their unworthy brother in Christ ; and, especially, let it be _one with a pleasant, cheerful expression of counten- · ance, that will glorify and not dishonour the Lord I love ; for our very faces even should show forth His praise. And now, in conclusion, I have one request to make, which is this : that, after yielding ~ the desire for my likeness so long expressed, and having had it published,. my friends will have the kind- ness to refrain from applying either to me or to any of my helpers at the Orphan Houses for it, under the supposition that the photograph can be obtained in the form of a "carte-de-visite." .As it has not been published separately from this book, it cannot poss'ibly be had in any other form than is given here. One especial reason I had for inserting it in INTRODUCTION. xiii the book, and for not allowing it to be published separately, was, that as the amount of work we have at the Orphan Houses is already very great, I desire that it may not _be increased by our having to respond to continual applications by letter for my photograph, which in all probability would be made, if the likeness could be obtained separately. I am sure, however, that nothing further need be said on the subject, as all my dear Christian friends will at once see how reasonable and important my request is. GEORGE MULLER. NEW ORPHAN HOUSES, Ashley Down, Bristol July, 1883. PREFACETOTHESECOND EDITION, THE first edition of " The Preaching Tours and Missionary Labours of George Miiller,"consisting of four thousand copies, having been exhausted, a second greatly enlarged edition, of five thousand copies, has been published. This second edition contains an account of fifteen Tours, including our travels through forty-two countries altogether, whilst the first edition gave information regarding nine Tours only. GEORGE M;OLLER. June 8th, 1889. CONTENTS. I;'AGE FmsT ToUR.-England. From Marek 26th to July 6th, 1875 1 · SECONDTOUR.-England, Scotland and Ireland. From August 14th, 1875, to July 5th, 1876 3 THIRDToUR.-Continent of Europe. FromAugust . 16th, 1876, to June 25th, 1877 ... 11 FOURTHTOUR.-Canada and the United States. From August 18th, 1877, to July 8th, 1878 25 FIFTH TouR.-Continent of Europe. From Sept. 5th, 1878, to June 18th, 1879 83 SIXTHTouR.-United States and Canada. From August 21th, 1879, to Jwne 17th, 1880 ... 132 SEVENTHTol'rn._:_Canadaand the United States. From Sept. 15th, 1880, to May 31st, 1881 162 EIGHTH TouR.-Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, Turkey and Greece. From Aug'USt23rd, 1881, to May 30th,·1882 ... . .. 170 NINTH TouR.-European : Including Germany, Austria, Hungary, Bohemia, Russia and Russian Poland. . From August 8th, 1882, to Jwne 1st, 1883 ... 199 xvi CONTENTS. TENTH TouR.-Scotland and India. Frrm1,Sept. 7th, 1883, to Jwn,e5th, 1884 217 ELEVENTHTouR.-England and South Wales. Fr(Yffl, August 18th to October2nd, 1884 ... 258 TWELFTHTou&.-England. From May 16th to July 1st, 1885 .•. 260 TmRTEENTHTouR.-England and Scotland. From Sept. 1st to Oct. 3rd, 1885... ... 262 FOURTEENTH TouR.-Australia, China, Japan and the Straits of Malacca. From Nov. 4th, 1885, to June 13th, 1887 ... ... 264 FIFTEENTH Tou&.-South Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, Ceylon and India. From August 10th, 1887, to June 8th, 1889 .•. 284 FIRST MISSIONARY TOUR. ENGLAND. From March 26th to J'lily 6th, 1875. A S the origin of these Missionary Tours has been fully explained in the Introduction to this book, it will be unnecessary to advert to the circumstances which led to them any further. It ma.ytherefore now be stated, that on March 26th, 1875, Mr. Millier and myself set off upon our first missionary journey to a few places in England, and began by visiting Brighton, where he preached several times. He held one meeting also at Lewes ; and after he had preached repeatedly again at the Presbyterian Church, the Pavilion Dome, etc., at Brighton, we went to London, where, on the evening of May 6th, he addressed a very large congregation at Mr. Spurgeon's Tabernacle. On May 8th, we went to Sunder- land, where he preached six times, and on the 25th pro- ceeded to Newcastle, at which town he held a meeting at one of the Wesleyan Chapels, and gave a long address to Christian workers at a Union Prayer Meeting the next day. He preached at Newcastle also on May 26th, and on the 27th we returned to Sunderland. There he preached on the morning and evening of May 30th, attended a B
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2 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Union Prayer Meeting the following day, at which he spoke for three quarters of an hour, and gave a farewell address on June 2nd. On the 3rd we went again to Newoastle, at which town he held eighteen meetings- making a total of sixty-two since we left home on March 26th-and thence returned to London, where, on June 24th and 25th, he spoke at the ConferenceHall, Mildmay Park, and was one of the speakers who addressed about 3,000 persons on the evening of the 27th. On July 1st we went to Notting Hill. There my husband preached at the Talbot Street Tabernacle four times, and on the evening of July 5th addressed 1,500 Christian Workers for nearly an hour and a half at the " Edinburgh Castle," London-a service which brought his first preaching tour to a close. On July 6th we returned to Bristol, where, besides working daily at the Orphan Houses, and transacting much business connected with the other branches of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, Mr. Miiller preached, as usual, several times ; and, after remaining at home for five weeks and four days, we set off again upon our mis~ sionary travels.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 3 SECOND TOUR. ENGLAND, SCOTLAND AND IRELAND. From August 14th, 1875, to July 5th, 1876. O N August 14th, 1875, we went to London on our second tour, of which, for the sake of brevity, it may be desirable to give a very short sketch only. On the 15th my husband preached in the afternoon and evening at the Mildmay Conference Hall, when on the latter occasion he addressed about 3,000 persons from 1st Peter i. 8; and during the 15 days we were in London he pre~hed 14 times altogether. Whilst there, he 1 held several meetings also at the Mildmay Conference Hall for the benefit of young converts. Messrs: Moody and Sankey, after their long service in England, Scotland and Ireland, had by that time returned to the United States ; and as these devoted servants of Christ, whose labours were so abundantly blessed in the conversion of sinners, were unable to remain Tongin the places they visited, Mr. Miiller had it. especially laid upon his heart to preach in the large cities where they laboured, in order that, through his long experience in the ministry of the Word, he might help young converts, and instruct them more than, from want of time, these brethren had been able to do. B-2
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4 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On August 30th we went to Stafford, on our way to Windermere and the Lake District in the north of Eng- land, where a few days were spent ; and on Sept. 11th reached Kilmarnock, Scotland, at which town Mr. Miiller preached morning and evening on the 12th. At Saltcoats he spoke on the 16th for an hour and a quarter at a Conference, and preached altogether seven times at Kil- marnock in the Churches of that town. On Sept. 20th we went to Dundee, where on the 21st he spoke at the Conference Hall in the morning to about 1,200 people, and in the evening addressed 2,000 in the same place. On the 23rd he gave an address at a public breakfast, spoke at the Conference Hall again in the afternoon, and held a third meeting in the evening. On Sept. 29th, at St. Peter's, where McCheyne laboured, he preached from Psalm ciii. 3-5 ; held a meeting on the 30th at the Free Memorial Church, preached on the ' evening of Oct. 3rd at Kinnaird Hall to about 3,000 hearers, and during the 15 days we were at Dundee, spoke 17 times in public altogether. After leaving Dundee and visiting Dalkeith, on Oct. 9th we went to Perth, where Mr.Miiller preached five times, and on the 13th proceeded to Glasgow, in which city, at the Con- vention, he gave two addresses, on the 14th, on the power of the Spirit, speaking on the first occasion to about 5,000 people, and afterwards (by request) on the same subject to an overflow meeting of 1,200. On the evening of the 17th, at the Prince of Wales Theatre, Glasgow, he addressed an assembly of 3,000
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 5 from 1st Cor. xv. 1-2, when, at the inquirers' meeting which followed this service, it was found that 20 persons were impressed, and that one individual had found peace in Christ. Upon four subsequent occasions he preached at the same Theatre; and on the evening of Nov. 3rd addressed a congregation of 1,000 at Kirkintilloch, in- cluding eight or ten ministers who were present. On the 9th he spoke to 1,600 Sunday School and other Chris- tian teachers at Glasgow for an hour and a quarter, preached at Queen's Park Free Church on the 10th, and on the 14th spoke at the Marble Hall from Ex. xii. 1-12. On Nov. 17th he held a meeting for young men at Queen's Park Free Church, and on the 18th, at the noon prayer meeting, spoke for the last time at Glasgow. During our visit of 36 days, Mr. Miiller spoke 38 times in public altogether, with much help from the Lord, and there is reason to believe that great blessing resulted from his ministry. Our tour through Scotland would have been continued at that time, but having received an earnest invitation to attend a Convention at Dublin, fixed for the end of November, on the afternoon of the 19th we left Glasgow for Greenock, and went by steamer to Dublin, where, after a favourable night passage, we arrived on the 20th. On the 21st my husband spoke in the morn- ing at Merrion Hall, and preached in the evening at the same place to a congregation of about 2,000. On the 23rd he spoke '(by request) at the Christian Convention to an assembly of 400, consisting of ministers
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6 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS only, on "What is holiness, and how is it attained 1" and in the afternoon addressed 2,000 persons at the same place on "Faith which worketh by love." On Nov. 25th he spoke again.at the Convention, gave an address at the noon prayer meeting also on the 26th, and, immediately after closing it, gave it over again, by particular request, to an overflow meeting assembled at the United Presbyterian Church close by. On Dec. 3rd he preached at the Metropolitan Hall ; and at the Exhi- bition Palace, on the afternoon of Sunday, the 5th, ad- dressed the largest congregation he had in Dublin-2,500 persons, at least, being present. During the 20 days we were there, he spoke in public 21 times altogether. Not being able conveniently to remain longer in Ire- land, in consequence of having accepted invitations for other places, on Dec. 10th we left Dublin, and went, 'ViaKingstown and Holyhead, to Leamington, Warwick- shire, where Mr. Miiller preached many times to crowds of hearers at the Public Hall, the Wesleyan Church, the Albert Hall, the Congregational Church, and at other places. He preached once at Warwick also, once at Kenilworth, twice at Coventry, once at Rugby, on Jan. 4th, 1876, and gave a farewell address at the Public Hall, Leamington, from Ephes. vi. 10-18, the next even- ing. During our stay at Leamington of 27 days, in- cluding the services just mentioned, and expositio~s of the Scriptures to visitors at the Arboretum, a large Hydropathic Establishment in the town, he held 46 meetings altogether.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 7 ·on Jan. 7th we went to Liverpool, as he had been re- quested to preach for a time at the great Victoria Hall there, erected for Messrs. Moody and Sankey. On the 8th he gave an address at the opening of a small lnstitu-. tion, spoke at the Albion Hall on Sunday, the 9th, and on the evening of that day preached from Psalm xxiii., at the great Victoria Hall, to between 6,000 and 7,000 hearers. During our stay at Liverpool he spoke many ti.mes at the Victoria Hall, on Sundays, at the daily noon prayer meetings, and at 7 o'clock f3Veryevening to very large audiences, until Jan. 18th, when we went to the Conference at York, where he gave addresses upon dif- ferent subjects at three meetings, each of which lasted about three-quarters of &Ii hour. On Jan. 22nd we re- turned to Liverpool, where he continued to hold services at the Albion and Victoria Halls; on Feb. 6th he preached at Toxteth Tabernacle, and continued to speak in public until the 14th. During the 35 days we were at Liver- pool, and the 3 in York, he spoke at 48 meetings alto- gether. Whilst engaged in these services he was greatly helped by the Lord, and believers and young converts thanked him repeatedly for the blessing his ministry had been to them. At the Victoria Hall one of the orphans, formerly under his care-the commander of a merchant vessel-was converted the veryfirst eveningthrough his preaching. On Feb. 15th we went to Kendal, where, on the 16th, he addressed about 800 people at the Friends' Meeting House, and held three other meetings in the town, in-
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8 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS eluding two at the Sand Area Chapel On Feb. 21st we left for Carlisle, and here, on the evening of the 22nd, Mr. Millier addressed 400 men and women, the work- people of Messrs. Cann. The next dsy we started for Annan, Scotland, a little town of 3,000 inhabitants, at which place, on the 2~rd, he preached at the United Presbyterian Church to about 600 hearers. On Feb. 24th we went on to Edinburgh, where the General Assembly Hall of the Free Church was at once kindly placed at his disposal, that he might hold as many meetings in it as he pleased. In this beautiful hall every Sunday evening, and at the Noon meetings, he addressed very large congregations during the six weeks that we remained in Edinburgh. Besides these services, he preached at St. George's Free Church, at North Leith Free Church three timiis, at Dr. Chalmers's Memorial Church, at Bristol Street Baptist Church, Barclay Free Church, etc., and held 53 meetings altogether. On April 6th we went to Arbroath, at which place, and at Montrose, he preached eight times ; and at Aberdeen, where we arrived on April 16th, in 21 days he preached 31 times. In Edin- burgh and at Aberdeen he had also two meetings, at 'which he addressed a number of ministers for upwards of an hour; and at the Free Church College,Edinburgh, spoke to the Theological Students for about the same time. On May 10th he held a meeting at the Free Church, Ballater ; on the 12th preached at Crathie Free Church, µear Balmoral Castle ; and a:fter he had held three other j
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 9 services at Crathie, we went by stage coach to Br:emar, where he preached once at the National, and once at the Free Church. . On our return to Crathie, two more meetings were also held there. Whilst at this village, we became acquainted with a Christian housekeeper living at Balmoral Castle, who kindly conducted us one afternoon through the Queen's residence in Scotland ; and, a short tini.e before we left Crathie, Her Majesty arrived at the Castle, whom we saw driving out occa- sionally, accompanied by the Princess Beatrice. After our departure from Crathie we went to Inverness, where Mr. Millier preached many times, and remained there until May 31st, when we set off for Wick, about 15 miles from John O'Groat's House, in the extreme north of Scotland. During our short stay at Wick, on the morning of June 1st we took a drive to Canisbury, the parish in which John O'Groat's House is situated, and walked upon the sea-shore, from which the Orkney Islands can be seen. At 2 in the afternoon Mr. Miiller preached at Canisbury Free Church, where the country people flocked in great numbers from their little farms and cottages, three, four, and five miles off to hear him; and after the service, at 4 o'clock, we returned to Wick, where he held a meeting in the evening. . On June 3rd we went back to Inverness, and here he resumed his labours until the 8th, when, in consequence of the death of an aged lady residing at Reading, Berk- shire, who had made him her executor, we were obliged rather suddenly to leave ; but during our two visits to
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10 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS this town, including the ~ervicesat Wick and Canisbury, he preached 24 times altogether. From Inverness we went-via Edinburgh and London, to Reading, where he preached 13 times, and thence proceeded to London. · There, during the 10 days we remained, he spoke ten times in public. These services brought his ·second preaching tour to a close, and, on July 5th, we returned to Bristol. . I
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 11 THIRD TOUR. CONTINENT OF EUROPE.* From, August 16th, 1876, to June 25th, 1877. A FTER being occupied daily for a few weeks at the Orphan Houses on Ashley Down, and attending to business connected with the other branches of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, besides ministering regularly at the three chapels in Bristol with which he is connected, as Mr. Miiller had it particularly laid upon his heart to visit Switzerland and Germany, that he might labour in the gospel in those countries, on Aug. 16th, 1876, we went to Dover, crossed over to Calais the next morning and, proceeding to Boulogne, where we stayed one night, continued our journey afterwards to Paris, where we arrived on the 18th. During our stay in Paris he preached five times at the Congregational Chapel, Rue Royale, in Englis~ Before our departure * In the following- Narrative, a few passages, marked as being quotations by inverted commas, have been introduced, for the purpose-of describing cities and localities in Europe and America somewhat minutely. They have been taken from " Appleton's Handbook of American Travel," from "Bradsho.w's Continental Guide," or from one of " Murray's European Handbooks."
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12 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS we visited Versailles and Charenton-le-Pont, and availed ourselves of every suitable opportunity upon these occa- sions of giving away little gospel books in French to the numerous Roman Catholics we met with. On the 28th we started for Dijon, remained there one night, and w~nt on to Neuchatel, Switzerland,. on the 29th. There, during our shoi:t, visit of one .day, we took a drive to Chaumont, on the Jura, 3845 feet above the level of the sea, whence a magnificent general view of the Alps can be obtained, and reached Berne on the 31st. On Sept. 1st Mr. Miiller preache4 in Gfll'mO.n, for the first time after 31 years, at the Free Church, where, because the crowd was so great, notice was given that the next service would be held at the French Church, a much larger building, in which accordingly a service was conducted on the 2nd. · On Sunday afternoon, Sept. 3rd, he addressed a mixed assembly of about 1,800, consisting of pastors, young men, Sunday School teachers, country women in their Swiss costumes, children, etc., at a large hall called the Festhiitte ; and in the evening preached for the third time at the French Church, with very great help and power. On the after- noon of the 4th we went to Die Enge, a Hall on the side of a steep hill at Berne, where 150 brethren and sisters in the Lord had been invited by Col. von Biiren to meet us. After walking about fo~ a short time outside the building to gaze at the beauty of the distant Alps, lighted up by the glory of the setting sun, whose departing rays- shed a lovely rose-coloured hue over I I
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 13 their snowy summits, and hearing this remark : " Le hon Di~u l'a f'ait expres pour vous donner plaisir," we partook of coffee with our friends in the Hali who heartily welcomed us to Switzerland. Mr. Miiller then gave a short address, and afterwards allowed the meeting to take a conversational turn, when !ie answered a number of important questions that wtire put to him. Whilst at Berne he addressed the girls and teachers one afternoon at Dr. Blosch's Orphan .Institution, preached every evening until Sunday, the 10th, when he spoke at the Festhiitte, at 3 P.M., to about 1,900 persons, and preached a farewell sermon at the French Church to nearly 2,000 in the evening. The Lord helped him wonderfully, many persons appeared to be greatly impressed, and it was a glorious meeting. Having before him an immense_amount of work, with the prospect of preaching evening after evening for• several months to large audiences in the close, heated atmosphere of Churches, Halls, etc. ; and desir- ing a few days of entire rest and relaxation before the short days and cold weather of winter should set in ; we decided at this time upon a little excursion amongst the mountains, and accordingly on Sept. 11th started for Lucerne. At that town, which is in full view of Mont Pilatus, we passed one night, and the next morn• ing went by steamer across the lake to Vitznau, at the foot of the Rigi. Thence we ascended the mountain, which is 5,905 feet above the level of the sea, by cog- wheel railway, and beheld from its summit a view
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14 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS unrivalled for extent and grandeur. The panorama of lake and mountain scenery was magnificent, the horizon presenting a circumference of 300 miles, and including in the prospect 13 lakes, the snowy masses of the Bernese Oberland, the grand range of the 'Jura from Geneva to Basle, and the mountains of the Black Forest in Germany. A considerable quantity of snow lay upon the ground in the immediate neighbourhood of the Rigi Kulm, the cold was severe, and, as snow began to fall, we were glad to find shelter, near the top of the mountain, at an Hotel. At half past 4 the next morning we rose and ascended the Rigi Kulm, whence splendid ranges of innumerable snowy mountain peaks and distant glaciers could be seen extending far and wide, to which, illumi- nated as they were by the bright beams of the rising sun, a gorgeous prismatic colouring was imparted ; and there we stood for a considerable time, gazing round upon that grand, wild, solitary, silent region with an interest that could scarcely be exceeded. At 10 o'clock we descended the mountain, embarked in a lake steamer at Vitznau for Fluellen and Altdorf, and remained at the latter place until Sept. 15th. On the morning of that day we started by diligence for Mont St. Gothard, slowly ascended a mountain Pass by an Alpine road that winds between stupendous preci- pices of enormous height, dark, frowning, and perpen- dicular ; and after crossing the Pont du Diable, and changing carriages at Andermatt, drove on to the foot
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 15 of the St. Gothard. From that point a gradual a.scent of the mountain, by carriage, was commenced; the grand scenery and bold ou~line of the rocks becoming, as we advanced, more and more striking and con- spicuous ; but all was soon obscured by clouds and mists, and we alighted at the Hospice, situated at the top of the St. Gothard Pass, about 9,000 feet above the level of the sea, encompassed by a dense fog. In these regions abovethe duuds the cold was so intense, that we were thankful to accept the very poor accommodation afforded at the Hospice, a little Inn, intended ppncipally for the reception of travellers on their way to and from Italy ; and, in spite of the smoke, from the cigars of some Italians that filled the only room with a. fire in it .which the house contained, were glad to be allowed to share it with them, and with any other travellers· who happened to come in. At 10 we retired to our room, which was a very small one without a stove or fireplace, where the cold during the night was severe. The next morning (the 16th) we rose early, and, finding that clouds and fog still hung over the whole mountain region, concealing entirely the beauty of the grand scenery around, we got into the first diligence that stopped at the liospice, and went down the mountain at a rapid pace to Andermatt. From there we returned to Altdorf, took the steamer to Lucerne, and went on by r~ to Ziirich, where we arrived in time for my husband to fulfil the engagements he had made in that town for the 17th. On the following afternoon (Sunday) -
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16 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS he preached at the Anna Capelle to a large congrega• tion, the Church being crowded to the utmost, and the staircases and doorways filled; and in the evening held a second meeting at the same place, which was also very numerously attended. At Zurich he continued to conduct services every afternoon or evening until the 24th, when he addressed a large a!ldience at the Methodist Episcopal Chapel in the morning, and preached in the afternoon at the Frau Miinster, an immense church, to about 1,900 persons. On Sept. 25th we went by lake steamer to Mannedorf, and there were cordially welcomed by Mr. Zeller, suc- cessor to Dorothea Trudel, who conducted us to lodgings at a pretty cottage, with vines trained up against the walls, in which she used to live. Mter Mr. Miiller had preached twice at Mannedorf, and -held two meetings at Wadenschwyl, a small town on the opposite side of the lake, we returned to Ziirich; and on the evening of Sept. 29th he preached at Wytikon, a village four miles distant, where special arrangements for lighting the Church with lamps were necessary, because evening services were never held. During our two visits to Ziirich he preached in that town and in the neighbourhood 18 times altogether. On Oct. 1st we went to St. Gallen, and afterwards visited Hauptweil, Heinrichsbad, a small Sanatorium, Herisau, Heiden, Niederuzwyl, Mollie, Glarus, · and Trogen, and on Oct. 23rd returned to Heiden. At all of these places he held meetings with great encourage-
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 17 ment and success, except at Glarus, where the popula- tion is partly of an infidel character. Here some young men entered the Hall, evidently intending to disturb the meeting ; but the service, nevertheless, was of a most solemn character. On the following evening the number of hearers at the same Hall was considerably larger, and the preacher was listened to with great attention. From the grandeur and sublimity of their mountain scenery, Mollis, Glarus, and the whole neighbourhood for miles around, are wonderful localities. These are no places, one would think, for infidels ; for here, if any- where, the most careless even must be constrained to acknowledge that "the strength of the hills is His also.'; On Oct. 20th we went to Ragatz, situated in a pictu- resque spot on the Splugen Road, in tl).e Valley of the Rhine, and on the following morning took a drive to · Pfaffers-Bad, three miles distant, in the narrow deep gorge of the Tamina, between perpendicular cliffs of an amazing height, where, even during the summer months, the sun shines only from 10 o'clock till 4. The hot sulphur springs (temperature 94Q) are reached by a road of planks at the bottom of the gorge, which has high precipices on each side of it, only wide enough apart for the Bath House to stand on the level ground between them. This Pfaffers-Bad is considered one of the most curious and remarkable spots throughout the whole of Switzerland. On Oct. 24th we left Heiden and went to Constance, where, on the evening of that day,Mr. Miiller held a. C
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18 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS meeting at a large Hall of the Insel Hotel, which is situated on an island in the Boden See,,or Lake of Con- stance. This Hotel used formerly to be a Dominican Monastery, and the Hall, just referred to, was the Church originally belonging to the building. An old tower, connected with the Monastery, in which John Hll8S was imprisoned, is still standing close to the Hotel. During our short stay at Constance, three other meetings were held, two of them in the town, and before our departure we visited the Council Chamber at the Merchants' ·Hall, ia which the Council sat by whom Huss was tried and sentenced to be burned at the stake. The spot-now marked by a monument near the Briihl outside, where, in the year 1416, he and Jerome, of Prague, suffered martyrdom, is also one of the interest- ing places in this neighbourhood. On Oct. 28th we went to Schaffhausen, visited the beautiful Falls of the Rhine, and on the 29th, at the Johannes Kirche, an immense building, Mr. Miiller addressed a congregation of about 3,000. Upon four other occasions also he preached at the same Church, with great help from the Lord. From Schaffhausen, on Nov. 3rd, we proceeded to Winterthur, and after he had held two meetings there, left for Basie on the 4th. Here, during the fortnight we remained, he addressed very large congregations every evening, either at the great Hall of the Vereins Haus, at a Hall belonging to the Moravians, or at one of the Churches. He addressed the Theological Students of the University also, and
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 19 spoke for an hour and a quarter to 85 Missionary Students and their Teachers. On the 15th, at Beugen, he held a meeting at an Institution for young men who were being trained for teachers ; on the 16th addressed 65 Missionary Students at Cresehona, and on the 17th preached at Lehraeh. On Nov. 18th we went to Miilha~s~n~and afterwards visited Strasburg, Stuttgart, Kornthal, Ludwigsburg, Reutlingen, Ober-U,rbach,Heil- bronn, Carlsrube, Gernsbach (in the neighbourhood of the Black Forest), Heidelberg, Mannheim, Frankfort on the Maine, Darmstadt, Bonn, Cologne, Diisseldorf, Miil- hei~ Gladbaeh, Reydt, Viersen, Orefeld, Duisburg, Essen, Elberfeld and Barmen, at all of which places important, happy meetings, generally crowded to the very utmost, were held, both at Halls and in the Churches. At Bonn Mr. Muller addressed the Theological Stu- dents of the University; and at Barmen, spoke to the Missionary Students at the Mission House. Millheim an der Ruhr, Barmen and Elberfeld, were found by us the green spots, spiritually, of Germany, where it was refreshing to be-on account .of the great measure of spiritual life that existed there. The details, however, of all these services are not given, because it is unde- sirable to make this narrative too long; · but it may be interesting to mention that at Stuttgart he was honoured by an interview with the Queen of Wurtem- berg, who sent for him to the palace and asked a number of questions about the Orphan Work in Bristol ; o-2
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20 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS and on Jan. 13th, 1877, at Darmstadt, he held a draw- ing-room meeting at the house of the Court preacher, Mr. Bender, giving (by particular request) a short ac- count of his life and labours to a large company of gentlemen and ladies assembled there. Upon this occa- sion four drawing-rooms were thrown open, and Princess Karl (mother of Prince Louis of Hesse, husband of the late Princess Alice of England), Princess von Battenburg, and several gentlemen and ladies connected with the Court, were present. The two Princesses shook hands with us very kindly afterwards, and expressed much interest in the account which had been given. · On March 24th we left Barmen for Cassel, where, on Sunday morning, the 25th, at half-past 9, Mr. Muller preached at the Bruder Kirche to about 500 people, and in the afternoon, at St. Martin's Kirche, the largest Church in the city, to only between 600 and 700, a cir- cumstance which showed how low the state of spiritual life was · at Cassel compared with that of Barmen, Elberfeld and Millheim, where the Churches were so thronged, that, even when the rain fell in torrents, they were riot large enough to contain the people who crowded to the meetings, though many had to walk to them six, eight, or even ten miles. The congregations, however, increased in size continually. Whilst at Cassel we took a drive to the Palace of Wilhelmshohe, four miles distant, situated in a beautiful park, surrounded by extensive grounds, where, in 1870, after his ignominious defeat at Sedan, Napoleon III.,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 21 the late Emperor of the French, was sent as a· State prisoner by the Emperor of Germany. On March 28th we left Cassel and went to Halle, via Eisenacb, to visit the Wartburg, an old Castle, standing on a steep hill, 1,355 feet in height, where Luther was concealed in 1521, and explored the interior of the building. The sitting-room, occupied by. the ,great Reformer, when he translated the Scriptures into . German, is shown to visitors. His chair also, and an old bedstead upon which he slept, are preserved as objects of interest. The Wartburg contains a small chapel likewise, and numerous valuable relics. At 9 in the evening we reached Halle. , The next afternoon Mr. Miiller spoke at the great Hall of Francke's Orphan Institution from Heb. xi 4, and on March 30th gave an address on prayer at the same Hall, upon which occa- sion he made particular reference to the life and labours of Francke, because the example set by that devoted servant of Christ of founding an Orphan Institution, iri dependence upon God alone for help, was a great en- couragement to him when he began his Orphan Work in Bristol. Whilst at Halle we went through the Orphan Asylum, founded by Francke in 1698, and visited the different departments of the Institution. My husband called also upon his old friend Dr. Tholuck, Counsellor of the Upper Consistorium of Prussia, and Professor of Theology at the University of Halle, who was then living. On March 31st we left Halle for Berlin, and on the
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22 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS way there went to Wittenberg, a fortified town on the Elbe, to visit the Schlosskirche, which contains the tombs of Luther and Melancthon. Here, too, we saw the Church doors upon which, on Oct. 31st, 1517, Luther's 95 Theses against the doctrine of lndulgencies were posted up, introducing the Reformation ; and at an old Monastery were conducted to the room where he lived as an Augustine Monk, and shown the cup out of which he used to drink. In the market place is a great bronze statue of the Reformer, and another of Melanc- thon near it. We visited an Oak also, which marks the spot where, on Dec. 10th, 1520, Luther burned the Pope's bulls; saw the exterior of ·Melancthon's house; and afterwards, continuing our journey by rail, arrived at Berlin late the same evening. There, as long as we remained, Mr. Muller _preached nearly every evening at one of the various places of worship in the city, and held meetings at St. Johannes Kirche, Old Moabit, the Erste Vereins Haus, the Christus Kirche, the Moravian Brethren's Hall; etc. On Sundays he preached regularly twice. The audiences generally were very large. · On April 7th, Count Bismarck (a cousin of Prince Bismarck), came a djstance of 125 miles on purpose to see and hear him, because my husband's Narrative had been made a great blessing to his soul. On the 21st we visited Potsdam, on the morning of the 23rd le~ Berlin, and in the afternoon arrived at Stettin, Pomerania, near the Baltic. Here Mr. Muller preached several times, and afterwards we visited
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 23 Lubeck (one of the three great Hanse towns, about 200 miles from Stettin), Hanover, Bielefeld (in Westphalia), Soest, a very remarkable old Hanseatic town, and Ruhrort, at each of which places he preached also re- . peatedly. On May 16th we arrived at Nimeguen, Hol- land, where he held a meeting the same evening at the Dutch Reformed Church, and on the 17th visited an Orphan Institution for 4.50 children, seven miles from Nimeguen, established in consequence of the blessing which has rested upon the Ashley Down Orphan Houses, and carried on in the same spirit in which our own Institution is conducted. There he addressed the children with translation into Dutch, and we afterwards went through the various Departments of the Asylum. At Nimeguen, Mr. Muller continued to preach until May 21st, when we went by steamer to Arnheim, a beautiful town in Guelderland, on the banks of the Rhine, and afterwards visited Utrecht, at each of which places he held meetings repeatedly. On May 26th we reached Amsterdam, where he preached several times, either in German, or in G~rman with translation into Dutch ; and whilst there a letter arrived from the United States, signed by the Rev. E. P. Thwing, and four other pastors, earnestly inviting him to labour in America. " Amsterdam is built upon piles driven through 50 or 60 feet of peat and sand, and is protected by dyk~. Its numerous canals and 95 islands are spanned by 300 bridges. The diamond cutting industry of Amsterdam
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24- MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS. is the most celebrated in the world, and supports 10,000 workmen, 9,000 of whom are ,Jews. At Koster's the Kohinoor and other diamonds were cut." On June 3rd we went to Zeist, an interesting Moravian settlement, where my husband preached three times, and afterwards visited Haarlem, Leyden, and the Hague (this last city being the residence of the Court and Govern- ment), at each of which places he held several meetings. Those at the Hague were attended by many both of the upper and the lower classes, but by none belonging to the middle ranks of life. Before our departure from the Hague we spent· a few hours at Scheveling, a small sea-port on the Dutch coast; and on June 13th left for Rotterd.am, where Mr. Millier spoke the same evening at a Conference. The following evening he gave another address at the · Conference Hall, and on. June 15th preached at one of the Reformed Churches, to a large Congregation. This was his last service on the Continent. During this long tour, there is the fullest reason to believe, that God gre::Ltlyblessed his labours at all the places that we visited. On June 16th we left Rotterdam for England, via Brussels, Calais and Dover, and arrived in London on the 18th. On the 21st he spoke at one of the Mildmay Conference meetings ; on the 23rd gave an address at the noon prayer meeting, and on Sunday (24th) preached in the afternoon and evening at the Conference Hall to very large congregations. These services brought the labours of his third missionary tour to a close, and on June 25th we left London and returned to Bristol.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 25 FOURTH TOUR. CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. From Aug,ust18th, 1877, to Jul,y 8th, 1878. A FTER returning from the Continent, a few weeks were spent at the Orphan Houses on Ashley Down, where everything was found to be going on well; but, after much prayer, considering it to be the will of God we should respond to the letter of invitation received at Amsterdam, and visit the United States, on August 18th, 1877, we went to Liverpool, in order to embark for Canada, having been strongly advised to take the shorter sea voyage to Quebec instead of going to New York. On the morning of Sunday, the 19$, Mr. Miiller spoke at the Albion Hall, in the evening be preached at Tox- teth Tabernacle ; and whilst we remained at Liverpool held three other meetings. On Thursday afternoon, August 23rd, we went on board the steamship "Sardinian "(Allan Line) and sailed at 7 in the evening. The following morning we touched at Moville, on the North coast of Ireland ; and, after waiting there a few hours, to take in the mails, sailed out into the Atlantic. Our cabin, the chief officer'sdeck room, was tolerably comfortable, and the voyage, though
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26 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS rough, was a favourable one upon the whole. Off the Island of Newfoundland, the weather became cold, and the progress of the vessel was retarded considerably by fogs ; but on August 30th, the welcome cry of "land ! " from the steerage passengers was heard, and, when the fog lifted, Belle Island on our right was in full view, at a short distance only from the ship. On the evening of that day Mr. Muller held a meeting in the forecastle for the sailors and steerage passengers, and spoke afterwards in the Oh,irt Room to as many of the cabin passengers as were able to attend. On the 31st we entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 460 miles in length> where a heavy sea was running, and soon came in eight of the island of Anticoeti, inhabited only, it is said, by bears and wolves. On the evening of that day, Mr. Miiller gave an address at a meeting in the saloon, and early on the morning of Saturday, Sept. 1st, the mail bags were landed at Rimouski, where a few passengers went on shore. The remainder of the day was occupied in going up the River St. Lawrence. On its northern bank, a long range of mountain district extends for many miles ; and on its southern side close to the river's brink, numbers of white houses, the homes of French-Canadian settlers, are dotted along the shore for a great distance. In the evening, as we drew near Quebec, guns were fired from the " Sardinian " as a signal of her approach ; . and".at half-past eight we reached Point Louis, South Quebet;, after a voyage of nine days, six hours and a
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 27 half, and anchored alo~side the wharf. From the landing-place a carriage conveyed us up a steep hill to the Hotel St. Louis, where a number of letters awaited our arrival, containing a warm welcome to America, and numerous invitations for my husband to preach in the United States. On Sunday evening, Sept. 2nd, at the Baptist Church, he preached for the first time in'Canada, and the following day at a Hall in the city held tw9 other services. We had happy interviews also with several Christian friends. An abundance of work would have been ready for him at once at various places in Canada ; but, as the letter of invitation, received at Amsterdam, came from pastors in the United States, it seemed right to go there first, and particularly to Brooklyn, where Mr. Thwing resided. On the morning of Sept. 4th, some friends took us in a carriage to see the beautiful Falls of Montmorenci, nine miles distant, where the river of that name, after leaping for miles over a rocky bed, rushes with great velocity to the edge of the high rooks over which it falls, and pours its snowy cataract 250 feet into the vall~y below. Quebec is beautifully situated, and is a place of great historic interest. Near the town are the "Plains of Abrah~~" ~d the spot where General Wolfe fell. A monument erected to his memory and to that of Mont- calm, stands upon it. The Citadel, sometimes called the " Gibral~ of America," is a fortress upon the summit of a very high rock, from which there is a magnificent view of the St. Lawrence, and of the surrounding neigh-
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28 MISSIONARY TOURS AND ,LABOURS · bourhood. At 6 o'clock on the evening of the 4th, we went on board a river steamer, and, after a favourable night passage, at 7 the next morning, arrived at Mon- treal, where some brethren waiting on the landing-stage I asked us to remain; we did not, however, accept their ! kind inv:itation, and at 9 o'clock started for Toronto, where, after a long railway journey of 333 miles, we arrived at half-past 11 the same night. On the 6th we went on, viA Hamilton, to Niagara, and spent the after- noon in surveying the wonders of the celebrated "Falls," situated on the River Niagara, a strait connecting the floods of Lake Erie and Qntario. The first distant view of them was rather disappoint- ing; but a closer inspection revealed their magnitude and grandeur to the full. · "The waters for which the Niagara (a name signifying Thunder of Waters) forms an outlet cover an area of 150,000 square miles, floods so grand and inexhaustible as to be totally unaffected by the loss of the hundreds of millions of tons which they pour every hour through succeeding centuries over rugged, perp.endicular cliffs into the depths beneath." After driving to a bridge just above the ·American Falls, we made a partial circuit of Goat Island on foot, halting at all the chief points of interest. A staircase on the right led first to Luna Island, where, standing by a railing close to the edge of the precipice,we beheld the vast, swift, overwhelming waters of the American Falls, 169 feet high, immediately beside us, rushing in a tre- mendous torrent right over the brink, down into the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 29 fearful gulf below. "This, we thought, surpasses every- thing ; surely this must be the grandest Cataract in the world." But it was not; for a few more steps brought us full upon the great Horse Shoe Fall, on the Canadian side of the river, a mighty Cataract 150 feet high, and l,900feet in breadth, where, with overwhelming velocity and force, "1,500 millions of cubic feet of water" (according to Professor Lyell) rush every hour over the ledge of rocks, forming a huge, boiling cauldron at th~ bottom of the cliffs. And then the " Rapids ! " those wondrous Rapids, which some think equal to the great Cataracts themselves, especially attracted our ·attention. Just above the Falls, the bed of the Niagara descends about 51 feet in three quarters of a mile, and there, over rough ridges of rock, great masses of stone and large boulders, its waters surge and foam, in ten thousand fantastic shapes, and in the wildest turmoil, as though frantically eager to rush over the precipices into the abyss below. After seeing the "Rapids" we crossed the river by the new Suspension Bridge, and returned to the Clifton Hotel. The next afternoon, at half-past 2, we left for New York, travelled in a Pullman's sleeping-ear all night, and at 7 o'clock on the morning of Sept. 8th reached our destination, after a journey of 446 miles. From the terminus a carriage conveyed us to Brooklyn, " the City of Churches," about seven miles distant, where, at the Pierpoint Hotel, we remained for six weeks. On Sunday morning, Sept. 9th, at Dr. Talmage's Tabernacle (said to
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30 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS be the largest church in the United States), in the absence of Dr. Talmage, Mr. Miiller was most affection- ately introduced to the audience by Professor Thwing, who, in the course of a short speech from the platform, paused for a few moments, and, shaking hands with him before the assembled multitude, welcomed him to the United States. Mr. Miiller then addressed the ()Ongre- gation, and preached for three-quarters of !lll hour with much help from the Lord. In the evening he spoke again at the Tabernacle, and after the meeting, amongst the numbers who pressed forward to greet us, was a sister in Christ, one of the former Orphans from Ashley Do~n, who has been married for many years.. · During our visit to Brooklyn, Mr. Muller held a great number of meetings. On Sept. 12th he spoke at the Fulton Street prayer meeting, New York, and besides his regular preaching, visited Orphan and other Institu-, tions, ministered amongst the .Germans, of whom there are about ten millions throughout the United States, and continued actively engaged in the Lord~s service until Sept. 20th, when we went by river steamer up the Hudson, to the City of Hudson, and attended a Conven- tion, where he gave three addresses. On the 22nd we returned to Brooklyn, and on the following morning and evening he preached at Plymouth Church. On the 24th he spoke again at the Fulton Street prayer meeting, preached in German at Newark on the 25th, addressed the German students of the Theological Seminary at Bloomfield on the 26th, attended meetings for pastors,
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OF GEORGE MULLER •. 31 whom he addressed, visited a Homooopathic Institution, preached at Williamsburg, East Brooklyn, on Oct. 7th, and continued day after day to labour uninterruptedly, until Oct. 20th, when we went to Boston, after he had spoken in public at Brooklyn and the other places above mentioned 50 times. At Boston Mr. Miiller began his work by speaking on Sunday morning, Oct. 21st, at Mr. ·M9ody's Tabernacle -a large building which holds 7,000, but where on this occasion, as rain fell heavily, the congregation was com- ' paratively small-and in the evening he preached at Park Stree.t Church. On Oct. 22nd he held a meeting at Berkeley Street Church, and the next morning was· called upon by an inquirer, a young man under deep conviction of sin, who, having experienced an over- whelming consciousness of his lost condition by nature, during the sermon of the previous evening, was so affected that he could scarcely speak for weeping. During our stay at Boston my husband held meetings also at Dr. Cullis's Chapel; addressed the 350 young ladies at. Wellesley College, 15 miles from Boston; preached at the Clarendon Street Baptist Church, at W men A venue Baptist Church, at Charlestown; spoke at Dr. CuUis's Faith College ; addressed 500 school teachers at Cam- bridge ; preached at Dudley Baptist Church, at Boston Highlands, at Clarendon Street Church ; visited Dr. Cullis's Institution for Consumptive patients, whom he addressed, when Dr. C. remarked, "But for your example, all this would never have been in existence "-and con-
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32 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS tinued his labours until Nov. 3rd, on which day we went to Newburyport. · There, on the morning of the 4th, at the old Presby- terian Church, founded by George Whitefield, and where he ministered, Mr. M;iiller spoke from Isaiah liii. 5, 6, and read out of the Bible which belonged to that eminent servant of Christ, a circumstance noted with interest by the hearers, as this Bible is not generally used. He occupied a pulpit also which stands just above the spot where the remains of Whitefield lie interred. In one corner of the Church a handsome monument has been erected to his memory, and the vault is shown in which his coffin rests ; but, when the lid was removed, the skull and a few bones.only could be seen of the celebrated man, whose voice once reached the ears of tens of thousands, and whose eloquent appeals, in years gone by, made careless, unconverted sinners tremble. The following inscription is upon the monument :-" This Cenotaph is erected, with affectionate veneration, to the memory of the Rev. George Whitefield, born at Glouces- ter, England, Dec. 16th, 1714, educated at Oxford University, ordained 1736. In a ministry of 34 years, he crossed the Atlantic 13 times, and preached more than 18,000 sermons. As a soldier of the cross, humble, devout, ardent, he put on the whole armour of God, preferring the honour of Christ to his own interest, repose, reputation, or life. As a Christian orator, his deep piety, disinterested zeal, and vivid imagination, gave unexampled energy to his look, action, and utter-
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 33 ance. Bold, fervent, pungent, and popular in his elo- quence; no other uninspired man ever preached to so large assemblies, or enforced the simple truths of the Gospel by motives so persuasive and awful, and with an influence so powerful on the hearts of his hearers. He died of asthma, Sept. 30th, 1770 ; suddenly exchanging a life of unparalleled labours for his eternal rest." In a" Memoir of his Life and Labours," published in the United States, his biographer remarks that-" His out-of-door audiences consisted of twenty, thirty, and forty thousand at a time, whose singing could be heard two miles off, and Whitefield's own voice also could be heard at a distance of a mile from where he stood." When exhorting Howell Harris about bis people in a letter, Whitefield wrote-" Show them in the map of the Word, the kingdoms of the upper world, and the transcendent glories of them ; and assure them that all shall be theirs, if they believe on Jesus Christ with their whole hearts. Press them to believe on Him immedi- ately. Interspers!' prayers with your exhortations, and thereby call down fire from heaven, even the fire of the Holy Ghost. Speak every time, my dear brother, as though it were your last; weep out;if possible, every argument ; and, -as it were, compel them to cry,- ' Behold bow he loveth us ! ' " The author of this Memoir further says-" Present duty was the only thing that ever pressed hard upon him ; p3/!t bitternesses he quickly forgot; future troubles he left with God. He lived one day at a time and lived it thuruughly; D
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34 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS exhorting every one around, to foilow his Lord and Master." On the afternoon of Nov. 4th, Mr. Miiller preached again at Whitefield's Church. During our stay at New- buryport, he held three other meetings, and on the evening of the 7th, at the Baptist Church, he gave a farewell address. On the 8th we went to Amherst, where there is a College containing 350 students, to whom, and to other bearers from the town, my husband spoke for an hour on the evening of that day. During our stay, at the house of President Seelye, Principal of the Institution, the following interesting account of a former College student (a Japanese) was related to us. Whilst • I in bis native country, many years ago, this young man, becoming dissatisfied with bis gods of wood and stone, happened one day to meet with a Primer for children, written by a missionary in the Japanese tongue, when his eyes lighted upon these words:-" In the beginning God created the heaven and the earth." Genesis i 1. The thought, that there was a Being who bad created the material universe around, the beautiful earth with all its wonders, and the starry host in the spacious fir- mament above, struck him forcibly. "That God (thought he) is the Being I will worship;" and for some ti~e be ignorantly, but sincerely, worshipped the God of Gene- sis i. At length, ardently desiring to learn something more about the true God, he determined to leave the country secretly, and to go to China, with the hope of obtaining further light. At Shanghai a New Testament in the
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OF GEORGE HULLER. 35 Japanese language was given him, when, on opening the book, h~ immediately caught sight of this verse:-" God so loved the world, that He gave His only begotten Son, tha.t whosoever believe,th on Him should not perish, but have everlasting life." John iii. 16. "Whosoeved" (he thought to himself) "that must mean anybody, and as J am somebody, that must mean me." He studied his New Testament with the deepest interest ; beUeved what he read, and, through the teaching of the Holy Spirit, became a decided Christian. Desiring to be more fully instructed in the truth, he determined to go to the United States, and sailed for Boston in a ship belonging to a Christian merchant of that city, who, on his arrival, became so much interested in the young convert, that he sent him to school at Andover, where he remained three years. After that, he studied for three years at Amherst College, and then returned to Andover, where, at a Theological Seminary, as he intended to become a minister of the Gospel, his education was further carried on. °Finallyhe returned to Japan as a missionary, and was the means of bringing his parents and brothers to a saving knowledge of the Lord Jesus Christ. A photograph of this young man was shown to us by President Seelye. On Nov. 9th we took a drive to Mount Holyoke Seminary, South Hadley, founded by Mary Lyon ; a most interesting and important Institution, where, in a large Hall, Mr. Millier addressed the 225 lady students and their 25 teachers. We afterwards walked through the beautiful and extensive grounds connected with the D-2 -
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36 MISSiONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Seminary, were conducted through its various Depart- ments, and visited Miss Lyon's grave. From Amherst, on Nov. 10th, we went to Providence, Rhode Island, where my husband preached four times to large, attentive audiences, and, at the request of the President, ad- dressed the Students of the University. After leaving Providence we proceeded to New York. There he spoke for an hour at the Bible Union meeting, preached at the Baptist Central Church, and at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association addressed a very large Ger- man congregation, including about 30 German ministers. On the 15th, at the Presbyterian Church, Orange, New Jersey, he addressed the teachers of 22 different Sunday Schoolswith reference to their service, when the building was crowded with an immense congregation ; and, on the 16th, preached at a Baptist Church, New York. On Nov. 17th, we left for Jersey City, at which place, as well as at Elizabeth and Morristown, se~eral im- portant meetings were held, and, on the 24th, went on to Philadelphia. There my husband began work the next day, and, during our stay, preached many times to crowded congregations. On the evening of Nov. 26th, a meeting for Christian workers was held at Chambers' Presbyterian Church, when he addressed about 1,400 brethren and sisters in Christ for an hour and a half, with great help from the Lord, and on the morning of Dec. 3rd (by invitation) attended a meeting of pastors at one of the Methodist Episcopal Churches, where, at their request, he addressed about 500 ministers of various
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O]' GEORGE MULLER. 37 denominations, who had assembled to hear him. Upon this occasion he spoke to them for an hour and 20 minutes, on 15 different points connected with their service for the Lord, and considered this meeting one of the most precious opportunities of witnessing for Christ ever afforded to him in his whole life. Numbers of these brethren pressed round him afterwards, expressed their thanks, and cordially invited him to preach in their churches. In a very short time also, he received an invitation to address the Episcopalministers on the fol- lowing Monday morning. On the 4th Dec. he preached at the Scott Methodist Episcopal Church from 1st Tim. i. 15, 16, with great power, when the people appeared to be deeply impressed; and on the afternoon of Sunday, Dec. 9th, spoke at the Hall of a Sunday School, built by a Christian gentleman at a cost of 150,000 dollars. This school, probably the largest in the world, is generally attended by 2,200 children; but, on this occasi~m,the younger ones having been dismissed, 1,500 only were present. As about 1,500 other hearers, however, were there, he had altogether a congregation of 3,000. The arrangements connected with this Sunday School were the most perfec~ we have ever seen, and the Ha.II,where the school is held, is a very large beautiful building. Before our departure from Philadelphia, Mr. Muller preached at Haddonfield, New Jersey, on Dec.6th, and at German Town, on the 7th, to a very large audience, at the great Ha.II of the Young Men's Christian Asso- ciation. On Monday, Dec. 10th, he attended the united
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38 . MI8SIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS meeting of Episcopal ministers already referred to, when he addressed them for an hour, on ten weighty points connected with their service ; 48 were present. At All Saints' Episcopal Church, on the evening of Dec. 14th, he preached from the 103rd Psalm, when the church was filled with hearers. No clerical gown was put on, and a few collects only were read by the minister of the Church at the coinmencetnent of the service. On pee. 15th, we left Philadelphia for Baltimore, where, the next morning (Sunday, 16th), he preached at the largest Methodist Episcopal Church, which was crowded, the aisles, etc., being thronged ; and in the evening held a meeting at the First- Presbyterian Church, when this building also was filled, many had to stand, and others to go away for want of room. During the whole of our stay at Baltimore, my husband ·continued to la.bollruninterruptedly, preaching night after night to immense audiences; but as a minute account of his work in the various cities we visited, throughout our long tour, , would ta.k~ up too much space, a few particulars only of his ministry at the most important places can be given. On Dec. 21st, he spoke at a State Convention, in the · presence of about 150 gentlemen connected with jails, reformatories, etc., who had assembled to consider this subject-" Is religious instruction an agent necessary for the reformation of prisoners 1"-a question which was answered by him most decidedly in the affirmative. On Dec. 22nd we went by rail to Annapolis, 21 miles from Baltimore, and by steamer afterwards down the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 39 Severn out into the Bay of Chesapeake, which is the largest Bay in the United States. On our return to Baltimore by water, we got into important conversation with some German infidels, and were glad to have opportunities of giving little books and tracts to them as well as to other passengers on board the steamer. On Dec. 25th, -Mr. Millier preached at the Independent Methodist Church, and continued to labour at Baltimore until the 29th, when we went to Washington. There, on the morning of Sunday, the 30th, he preached at the Congregational Church, the largest in the city, and in the afternoon at 3 o'clock at Lincoln Hall. On the evening of Dec. 31st, at Dr. Sunderland's Church, he spoke from Psalm ciii. 3-5, with particular reference to the close of the year, when he addressed his :hearers with great solemnity, earnestness, and power. On Jan. 1st, 1878, the firing of cannons early in the morning ushered in the new year, which is a time of much excitement and gaiety in Washington, when the President holds a "-reception," and there is a great deal of visiting from house to house. On the evening of that day my husband preached at the Foundry Church, from Exodus xvii. 1-7, when, although it was a time of so much pleasure and amusement, between 700 and 800 people were present. On Jan. 3rd we visited Wayland Seminary, a few miles from Washington, where -he ad- dressed 97 male and female coloured students, who were being trained for missionary work : a deeply important service. A.iithey possessed great taste for music, and
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40 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS considerable vocal talent, it was quite a treat to hear them sing; for music, in the Lord's service, being care- fully studied at this Seminary, the sacred pieces which they sang were exquisitely given. In the evening Mr. Muller preached at Dr. Mitchell's Church, from Romans xii. 2, where, after the service, one of the pastors came up to him and said : " God sent you to America, dear Brother. That's just the kind of teaching that we want; something that will rouse and wake up Christiansas well as the unconverted. God sent you to America, Sir ; of that I am certain." On Jan. 4th he preached at the Calvary Baptist Church, and on the 5th we went to the Virginia Episcopal Theological Seminary, near Alex- andria, about 11 miles from Washington, and were driven three miles from the railway station to the lpstitution in an open carriage in bitterly cold weather, the thermometer being six degrees below zero4 that is, it registered 38 degrees of frost. There, in the presence of their professors, four in number, and the President, my husband addressed 41 young men-students, who were preparing for the ministry and for missionary service ; and about 40. young students from the High School besides, who, with their tutors, had been invited to attend the meeting. On Sunday, the 6th, he preached three times : in the morning at the Metropolitan Church, a very large one, which was crowded ; in the afternoon at Lincoln Hall to about 1,500 _persons; and in the evening at the Foundry Church. On the morning of Jan. 10th, at half-past 9, we ac-
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OF GEORGE MULLER, 41 \ companied Mr. Shipley, of Cincinnati, by appointment, to the White House, to be introduced by him to the President and to Mrs. Hayes. They received us with much courtesy, and, after making some inquiries about our work in England, the former entered for half an hour into conversation with Mr. Millier. Mrs. Hayes afterwards conducted us through the White House, a large old mansion, and showed us the State apartments, with the various objects of -:interest which this residence contains. On Jan. 11th Mr. Miiller addressed about 1,000 Christiap. Workers, at the Lutheran Memorial Church, for an hour and 20 minutes; and on the 15th spoke to the coloured stud~nts at Howard U Diversityfor an hour, where the work carried on is of a most important character. During the whole of our stay at Washington, his time was fully occupied, and he preached every evening, and sometimes twice a day, as long as we re- mained. On the 19th we visited the Capitol, which has a dome nearly 400 feet in height ; from the top of which the river Potomac, Mount Vernon, Alexandria, Washing- ton, and the whole neighbourhood, could be seen, and afterwards walked through the Government Buildings, · public offices,etc. On the morning of Sunday, Jan. 20th, Mr. Miiller preached at· the First Baptist Church, and in the afternoon, at 4 o'clock, gave a farewell address at the Lutheran Memorial Church to a very crowded audience. On Jan. 21st we left for Salem, in Virginia, 239 miles
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42 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS from Washington, and on our way passed many of the places which were the scenes of deadly conflict b~tween the Federals and Confederates, during the civil war that raged in the United States many years ago. Near the line of railway Cemeteries were to -be seen, filled with long rows of graves placed close together, and marked by white stones, where the corpses of those who were slain in battle lie interred. Alas ! what an awful, melancholy war was thatI After travelling for twelve hours, at 8 p.m., we arrived at Salem, a small secluded town, 1,450 feet above the level of the sea, situated in a beautiful valley amongst the Alleghany Mountains. On the following evening my husband preached at the Lutheran Church to a most crowded congregation, con- sisting of pastors, theological students, ladies, country people, negroes, children, the visitors from the Duval Hotel, where we were staying, its three proprietors, and the servants, one woman only being left at home ; and an elderly Welsh minister from Merthyr Tydvil, for 30 years a resident in the United States, walked seven miles from the country to be present at the meeting. All, who could possibly attend, turned out to hear George Millier, of Bristol, England, who preached for upwards of an hour, and was listened to with the liveliest interest and attention. On the evening of the 23rd he held a second meeting at the Lutheran Church, and addressed a densely crowded congregation, when the appearance of the building plainly showed that it is not necessary to go to large cities in order to have vast audiences. Hundreds
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 43 of young men were present, most of them students from Roanoke College and the Theological Seminary, many of whom were standing at the entrance closely packed together ; whilst others sat .upon the pulpit platform side by side. The gallery was thronged. At the back of it several young men were standing upon forms, with their heads near the ceiling, and upon the edge of the front sea.ts in the gallery a few boys were perched, with their legs hanging over the pews, in a somewhat dan- gerous position. Mr. Miiller spoke for an hour and 35 minutes, giving (by particular request) some account of his life and labours, and the meeting, which lasted two hours, was a very blessed one. The next morning he spoke at the Theological Seminary to the students, and in the evening preached for the third time at the Lutheran Church, his particular object being to address the young men from Roanoke College and the students of the Theological Seminary. The portion of Scripture from which he spoke was Eccles. xi. 9, 10, to chapter xii. 1. On Jan. 25th we rose at 4, left the railway station, at some distance from our Hotel, at a quarter past six, and travelled, via Lynchburg, Dundee, Salisbury and Charlotte, to Columbia in South Carolina, where, after a long, fatiguing journey of 378 miles, which it took 21 hours to accomplish, we arrived at half-past 3, early on the morning of the 26th, and, by special invitation, went to the house of Chief Justice Willard~ The next _day (Sunday) Mr. Muller preached in the morning at the Presbyterian, and in the evening at the Methodist Epis-
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44 MISSIONARY TOURS A.J.~DLABOURS copal Church, where, ,though the congregations were small compared with those in the North, they were large for the Southern States. On the morning of the 28th we went through the State House, the Capitol of Columbia, and were introduced by Judge Willard to the Governor, the Secretary of State for South Carolina, the Comp- troller-General, and other government officers. We visited the Senate Chamber also while the senators were sitting, and the House of Representatives, where, on the following morning (by particular request), Mr. Millier opened the deliberations of the day, according to custom, with prayer. At 1 o'clock he addressed the young men and lads at the Reformatory Prison, and, before our departure from Columbia, preached four times at the different Churches, giving an address besides to 41 students, with their President and Professors, at the Theological Seminary on Jan. 31st. Columbia was a fine city once ; but tw~thirds of it were destroyed by fire during the civil war, and the place, though now rebuilt, has never tho_roughly recovered its form.er beauty. It is situated on the Bluffs of the Congaree, and used to be celebrated for its delightfully shaded streets, its lovely flower-gardens, and the model planta- tions in its vicinity. On the afternoon of Feb. 1st we left Columbia for Charleston, the metropolis of South Carolina, seven miles from the ocean; and, after a journey_of 135 miles, arrived there on the 2nd, at half-past 12 in the middle of the night. There, on the morning of Sunday the 3rd,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 45 Mr. Muller preached at the Citadel Baptist Church, and in the evening at Trinity Church ; but in conse- quence of the rain, which fell heavily all day, the congregations were only small. On the two following evenings he held meetings at the Second Presbyterian Church, addressed the orphans of the Charleston Orphan Asylum on the 6th, in the presence of their teachers and a number of gentlemen and ladies connected with the Institution, and on the evening of that day preached at the First Baptist Church. On the following evening he held a meeting for Christian Workers, and on the 8th preached at Morris Street Coloured Baptist Church, with great help from the Lord, to 1,000, negroes and coloured people, and about 60 whites. On the morning of Sunday, the 10th, he preached at the Bethel Metho- dist Church, and in the evening at the Citadel Baptist Church, a very large building, where a union service or mass-meeting was held, which was crowded to over- flowing, most of the churches in the town having been closed, that their congregations and ministers might be present. On the following morning he addressed a meeting. of pastors for an hour and 10 minutes, preached in the evening at the Old Bethel Church to coloured people, and on the 12th held a meeting at the Centenary Church, where an immense congregation of negroes and coloured persons assembled, many of whom stood in the aisles and outside the doors, whilst numbers were unable to get in. On Feb. 13th we left Charleston for Savannah, the
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46 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS chief city of Georgia, and travelled all day slowly by !' accommodation train" through one of the great Ameri- can Swamps, a morass with stagnant water and luxuriant v~getation on each side of the railway. " This route lies within a few miles of the coast, and passes through many of the seaside and lowland towns and villages of the State, situated in the midst of the wildest, richest scenery. For miles the rails are laid on piles passing through marsh and morass, and crossing swift, rushing streams ; but it is in regions of this nature that the grandest and most tropical vegetation is to be found. In this country of miasmas, fever, and exces- sive heat, where, in the summer months, few but the negro can exist, the most profuse and abundant vegeta- tion thrives luxuriantly. Extensive pine forests, lofty cypresses wreathed with garlands of grey moss, the bay and the laurel covered with the vines of the wild grape or ivy, and immense live oaks, line the road on each side. Wild flowers grow in profusion during the spring and summer, and the canebrake rises to a height of ten, twelve, or fifteen feet. In these regions alligators abound, which delight in the muddy, stagnant waters, and find in them a river home." We passed many negro log-cabins, built where the ground was tolerably firm ; but they were wretched- looking habitations, damp and miserable, many of them being mere· hovels of a most unhealthy character. Though the rice fields, cotton, sugar and tobacco planta- tions may be benefited by a constant supply of moisture,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 47 the damp heat produced by the sun's scorching rays in summer, as they fall upon this marshy ground, is exceedingly unhealthy, and produces yellow fever, which is often most fatal in the Southern States. Upon our arrival at Savannah (a beautiful city with plantations of orange and lemon trees growing in winter in the open air, and adorned with geraniums, creeping plants, and various choice flowers), we accepted an invitation to the house of Mr. Charles Green, a Christian merchant; and during our short stay were· entertained at his mansion most hospitably. Whilst there, Mr. Miiller preached at the Baptist, Independent, Presbyte- rian, and Methodist Episcopal Chur~hes, gave addresses to the girls of the Episcopal Orphan Asylum, of White- field's Orphanage in Georgia, and spoke to the children . of the Preventive ,Home. Before our departure from Savannah, we took drives to Buonaventura Cemetery, to Plantati?n, and to Thunderbolt, and particularly noticed the luxuriant, but peculiar looking, Spanish moss which attaches itself to the trunks and branches of the trees, and grows in great profusion through all the Southern States. Being of a grey colour, it is unlike European moss, and forms a long, deep fringe, a kind of sweeping, mournful drapery, which, as it is waved about by the wind, has so melancholy an appearance that it seems appropriate for cemeteries, where it is found in great abundance. On Feb. 25th, Mr. Millier gave a farewell address at the Presbyterian Church, and on the 26th we went on
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48 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS hoard the " City of Bridgetown," an " inland route" river steamer, in which, with 136 oth,er passengers, we sailed, via Brunswick and Fernandina, for Jacksonville, in Florida. By th~ term "inland r~ute," is meant a voyage down the river Savannah, across lakes, estuaries, and along wide streams, but inside the land which forms a boundary to the Atlantic Ocean. Our voyage proved, however, most tedious and intricate; for several times the vessel grounded, and, as it was necessary to wait for the tide to rise and set her afloat again, great delay and inconvenience were occasioned ; but on the afternoon of the 28th, after steaming through a most tortuous water- course, a perfect' labyrinth of winding streams, we got safely into the St. John's river, and in the evening reached Jacksonville, after a voyage of 350 miles, which it took 52 hours and a half ·to accomplish. We arrived too late, however, for Mr. Muller to preach that evening, though the service had been advertised. He held meetings therefore in this city five times only, all ,of which were numerously attended; and at Polk's Hall, on Sunday evening, March 3rd, there was a union or mass-meeting, where a vast audience assembled, which was said to be the largest congregation ever known in Jacksonville. Here, and in Florida generally, vegeta- tion was most luxuriant ; for, as some parts of the coast are only 130 miles from the West Indies, the climate of this State is tropical ; and flowers, fruit, and vegetables were in season, that in most other countries can be obtained only in the summer.
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OF, GEORGE MULLER. 49 On March 4th, .at 3.45 p.m., we left Jacksonville, and travelled all night in a train where the sleeping arrangements were more comfortable than usual. The following day we crossed the Chattahoochee River, and in the course of our journey became interested in a gentleman, very ill in consumption, whose severe cough had reached us often in the night. He had been staying in Florida for the benefit of his health ; but, as he said, " I can't talk," we ventured to hand him a couple of tracts; "Eternity," and "How is it with you 1" which there is reason to believe he read. The train stopped at Dawson, Eufala, and many other places; and at 9 o'clock on the evening of the 5th, we arrived at Montgomery, in Alabama, after a tedious journey of 483 miles. Here, desiring to get on quickly to Mobile (in Alabama), Mr. Millier preached a few times only; and, on the morning of the 9th, we rose at half-past 5, in order to continue our journey further South. In the course of it we passed several large cotton plantations, where cotton of the previous year still remained upon the plants ; peach trees in full blossom were growing wild in great abund- ance, fir and pine trees by the million lined each side of the tailway, and occasionally "turpentine orchards," containing the fir trees froi:nwhich turpentine is made, were close at ·hand. At a distance of about 20 miles from Mobile, we crossed the rivers Alabama and Tom- bigby, fine broad streams, filled with water to the brim, a few creeks, an'd a great quantity of marshy ground ; and afterwards entered one of the great "Swamps," with E
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50 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS which the Southern States abound. At length, after 11 hours' slow travelling by " accommodation train," at 7 p.m. we reached Mobile, 180 miles from Montgomery, and were most kindly received there by Judge Horton and his family, to whose house we went. In this city Mr. Muller held a number of meetings, which (for the Southern States) were numerously attended, and we had daily happy intercourse with Christian friends. · Our stay, however, was but short, for on the morning of March 15th we bade them all adieu, and set off for New Orleans, Louisiana, 141 miles distant, where, after stopping at 25 stations, travelling through inlets of the Mississippi Sound, much swamp and water, and crossing the Bay of St. Louis (a portion of the Gulf of Mexico) by a railway bridge two miles in length, we arrived at a quarter before nine, on the evening of the same day. At New Orleans my husband held many meetings, including . services at the Canal Street Presbyterian, , Carondelet Street, and Methodist Churches; he preached also in German, at three different places of worship, and • gave two addresses, one to the 250 coloured students of Leeland College, and the other to the coloured students of StrQ.ightUniversity, 215 in number. New Orleans, which is the chief cotton mart of the world, contains a large Roman Catholic, French, and Spanish population, and is said to be the most wicked city in the United States. During Olll'visit, Popish processions frequently passed along the streets, and little or no regard was shown for the Lord's Day, when business was carried on
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 51 as usual. Before our departure we visited the Orange Groves and Lake Pontchartrain; but, with this excep- tion, saw very little of the neighbourhood. On the afternoon of March 29th we went on board the "John Scudder;" a large river steamer, and at 6 p.m. le~ New Orleans, and started on a voyage up the Missis- sippi, for Memphis, Tennessee. The room we occupied was rather large, and was one of a great number of cabins, ranged along the sides of a very long saloon, used as a general sitting and dining-room by the passen- gers. It had two berths, six little windows (or ventila- tors), close to the ceiling, and two doors, one of which opened into the saloon. The food provided for the passengers was excellent, but no drinking water was to be had on board, except the unfiltered water of the Mississippi : and this was so full of hnpurities, and muddy sediment, which formed a thick deposit on the bottom of any vessel where it was allowed to stand, that we could neither make up our minds to drink it cold, nor in the form of tea or coffee, particularly as it was said to have an injurious effect upon the health. We therefore obtained a jug filled with ice, allowed the ice to melt, and after mixing a little wine with the water, to take off the coldness of it, procured a whole- some palatable draught. On the evening of March 31st, Mr. Millier (by permission) held a meeting in the saloon, when he addressed the passengers, coloured servants, and as many of the ship's company as were able to attend ; but, though there were a few Christians on E-2
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52 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOU.KS board who appreciated the service, the passengers were chiefly worldly people, who amused themselves every evening in the saloon with music, singing, dancing, and card-playing, from which there was no escape, as in our cabin we could distinctly hear, even if we did not see, all that was going on. The voyage, however, though slow, was a pleasant one upon the whole. The Missis- sippi, or " Father of Waters," from its source, in Minne- sota, to its mouth, in the Gulf of Mexico, is 3160 miles in length ; but the llpperMississippi is considered much more beautiful than the lower portion of the river. Whilst on board, Mr. Miiller was occupied a few hours every day in writing the new Report, and on April 3rd, at 6 p.m., we landed at Memphis,·situated on one of the Chickasaw Bluffs of the Mississippi, after a voyage of about 800 miles. There we passed the night at an Hotel in most uncomfortable quarters,and, at 11.15 on the morning of the next day, left by rail for St. Louis, Missouri, a city of more than half a million of inhabitants, where, after a journey of 327 miles, we arrived at 7.15 a.m. on April 5th, and went immediately to the Planters' House. On Sunday, April 7th, Mr. Millier began his work by . preaching in the morning at the Second Presbyterian Church, and in the evening at the· Pilgrim Congrega- tional, when, upon each occasion, the audience was immense. On the 8th he gave an address on prayer at the Methodist Episcopal Church, to crowds of hearers, and preached at Pine Street Presbyterian Church on the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 53 evening of the 9th. On the 10th and 11th he held meetings at the Second Baptist and at Lafayette Park Presbyterian Churches, and on the 12th addressed an assembly of at least 2,500 at the Centenary Methodist Episcopal Church, the largest in the city. On the 13th, at the German Protestant Orphan Home, nine miles from our Hotel, he spoke to 161 orphans in German, in the presence of their teachers and other persons ; on Sunday morning the 14th preached at Dr. Brookes's Church, Walnut Street, on the second coming of Christ, and on the evening of that day, at the Mercantile Library Hall, addressed a mass meeting of Germans, about 2,000 in number. On the morning of the 15th he attended a meeting for pastors, when he spoke to 150 for an hour and 20 minutes, and in the evening preached at a Ger- man Church, at the corner of AutuillJ].and Tenth Streets. On the 16th a meeting for Christian Workers was held at the First Presbyterian Church, when he addressed a congregation of 1,200, and on Wednesday evening, April 17th, preached a farewell sermon at Dr. Brookes's Church, from the Epistle of Jude, verses 20-21, with great power and solemnity. Throughout the whole of our stay at St. Louis the meetings were exceedinglylarge, on week evenings as well as on Sundays ; and the interest and a~tention manifested during the whole series of ser- vices were most encouraging. On April 18th we rose at half-past 5, and commended ourselves to the Lord in prayer for the long journey to San Francisco (undertaken after much waiting upon
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54 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS God) before us ; and at half-past 8 left St. Louis in a Pullman's car. In the course of the morning we crossed the Missouri, and, the weather being lovely, wit]:ivegeta- tion in perfection, the journey was delightful. In the _evening we alighted at the supper station to partake of some refreshment, and at 9 o'clock retired to rest. The . little room we occupied was comfortable, and the sleep-· ing arrangements were excellent. Our windows remained shut, but, il.s the six ventilators above them were left open, there was thorough ventilation ; and, after passing a good night, at 9 o'clock the next morning we reached Council Bluffs. There, after breakfast, at half-past. 9, we got into the same train; but, having to take seats in one ·of the other carriages until the Pullman cars were un- locked, a multitude of emigrants, who were pouring into California at the rate of 1,000 per day, soon surrounded us, amongst whom we distributed some tracts. At Omaha, Nebraska (476 miles from St. Louis, · where the Union Pacific Railway begins), we arrived in half an hour; and, after waiting three hours at the station, got into another train, without emigrants, and there engaged a second little private room. At 1 o'clock our journey was resumed, and soon after leaving Omaha we entered upon the prairies, whic~ consist of millions of acres of wild, barren, uncultivated land, stretching away for hundreds of mile.s in all directions, with scarcely a bush, tree, or plant of any size upon ·them, and covered only with dry, short, stunted grass. Throughout this district, appropriately called the "Amari-
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 55 can Desert," the cold must oftea be intense, for there is no shelter for many miles, and nothing to break the force and severity of winter gales. During this portion of our journey the tr~n advanced only at the rate of 15 -miles an hour; for, though trav~lling an,arently over immense level plains, we were gradually ascending some. thousands of feet above the level of the sea. On April 20th, at noon, the engine got out of order, and as we and all the other passengers alighted from the train, there was further opportunity of distributing tracts and of surveying the immense-plains around. Some idea could be formed also of the wilderness through which the Children of Israel passed, on their way to Canaan, the promised land. Soon after continuing our journey, the elevation became greater, and quantities of snow in large patches were seen lying on the ground. Just before reaching Archer, distant ranges of the Rocky Mountains became visible, having peaks covered with perpetual snow ; but, in consequence of defective power in our locomotive, Cheyenne, the dinner station (a town 5,931 feet above the level of the sea, consisting chiefly of detached wooden houses), was not reached until 4 p.m., when the train drew up at a short distance from the Inter-Ocean Hotel. After leaving Cheyenne, numerous snow sheds were passed, erected at intervals to protect the railway from great snow drifts in heavy winter storms ; and during the night we ascended to Sherman, 8,235 feet above the level of the sea, a point ruore elevated tha~ the summit of the Rigi, and the highest
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56 MISSIONARY TOURS. AND LABOURS 'railway station in the world, where the cold became severe, and the snow in places was several feet deep. On April 21st, all through the day, we continued to travel in the midst of a wild, barren, desolate region, with long ranges of lofty, snow-capped mountains in the distance, and snow in great abundance everywhere. There was neither foliage nor vegetation, and though the railway carriages were warmed, the cold outside was piercing. For several hours we passed repeatedly under snow sheds, of which there were considerable numbers ; and, in consequence of our detention on the previous day, arrived at the breakfast station very late. In tbe afternoon, at 3 o'clock, Evanstone, 6,870 feet above the level of the sea, was reached, and towards the evening we descended gradually towards the valleys, where the wild and desolate character of the scenery gave way to grandeur and magnificence. At Ogden (35 miles only from Salt Lake City, where the Union Pacific Railway terminates and tbe Central Pacific begins), we arrived at 7 o'clock, and, after waiting there an hour and a quarter,. changed trains ; but were obliged to be satisfied then merely with a " section," as the only little private room in the next train had been engaged. On April 22nd we rose at half-past 5, at 9 a.m. reached Elko, Nevada, 5,650 feet above the level of the sea, and after- wards travelled across the American alkali desert, con- sisting of vast plains covered with sage brush, bounded by long, snowy mountain ranges. At Wells, an eleva- . tion of only 5,030 feet above t4e level of the sea, where
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 57 the train stopped for half an hour, we observed groups of Indians, wrapped either in scarlet blankets or in striped woollen mantles dyed with brilliant colours. They wore curious looking hats, trimmed with feathers and wide ribbons, and had their faces painted with patches of vermilion. At some of the, stations a few Chinese also were standing about, with their hair plaited in long tails, reaching nearly to the heels. At ·Bewawe and Battle Mountain there were more Indians, and towards evening we reached Winnemucca, where several copper-coloured men and women gathered round the train. On the morning of April 23rd, at a very early hour, we entered California, and then the ascent of the Sierra Nevada Mountains became so steep that two locomotiveswere employed to draw the train up hill. At short intervals strongwooden snowsheds,liketunnels, had been erected, as a protection to the railway against injury from heavy snow drifts; but they could be regarded only as necessary evils, on account of the interruption they occasionedto the possibility of seeing everything around. At 6 o'clock we reached Summit station, 7,042 . feet above the level of .the sea, an elevation to which the train 'bad been gradually mounting in the night, and here a magnificent prospect of indescribable grandeur suddenly burst upon our view. Far above the station innumerable mountain peaks were towering towards the sky; the sun, which shone brilliantly, lighted up the snow to a whiteness that was dazzling ; deep abysses, chasms, and ravines surrounded us; millions of pine and
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58 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LAROURS. fir trees were growing up the mountains' sides ; and thousands of feet far down below, valleys clothed with the richest verdure, added beauty to the -scene. During the construction of this wonderful mountain railway, it is said that the sum spent upon blasting- powder alone amounted to a million dollars. At 8 o'clock the door of our compartment was thrown open; and the condu.ctor called out, "Cape Horn!,,. when all the passengers jumped up immediately and looked intently out of window, for the train was travelling- slowly along the very edge of a precipice, 2,450 feet in height; a point from which an extensive landscape of great beauty could be seen extending far and wide. After leaving " Cape Horn," we crossed a timber bridge, erected over a portion of the valley, proceeded to "Emigrant's Gap," thence to Colfax, and aft~rwards descended the mountain with a rush, further on into California, where the weather was warm, and the country looked most beautiful, the trees being covered· with foliage, and the ground highly cultivated everywhere. For many miles we passed rich meadow land, and numbers of large trees; the fields were covered with grass, intermingled with brilliant masses of wild flowers; lupines, eschcoltzias, wild roses, geraniums, etc., were flourishing in many places, and millions of Californian poppies of an intense yellow, deepening into orange colour, outshone all the rest. An American gentleman once said, " I never saw flowers in perfection till I saw them in California." At half-past 10 we arrived at
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 59 Sacramento, and, after remaining there an hour, travelled all day through a bea_utifu.lpart of the country, favoured with fine summer weather. In the course of the after- noon Livermore and Niles were reached, the train stopped a few minutes at San Jose, and finally we anived at Oakland, a suburb of San Francisco, where two gentle- men entered the carriage who welcomed us cordially, and earnestly invited my husband to preach there. At 5.35 we alighted at the station, where two brethren were kindly waiting to receive us, with whom we went on board the" El Capitan," a large ferry steamer; and, after crossing the Bay, landed at San Francisco, where our friends conducted us to the rooms which had been engaged at the Palace Hotel. Thus ended our journey of 2,390 miles (from St. Louis), accomplished in six days and five nights, the longest railway journey we had ever.taken at one time; and truly thankful to the Lord were we for His pro- tecting care during our travels, and for the comfoi:t9of the resting place now provided for us. On the evening of Friday, April 26th, at the lecture room of the Calvary. Presbyterian Church, Mr. Millier gave his first address at San Francisco; and, after the meeting was over,,Jam.es Wilkinson, an orphan formerly on Ashley Down, came up to speak to him. He had been living in the United States for fifteen years, and was not only converted himself, but had been used by,. the Lord as an instrument of great blessing to the sou.ls of others. On Sunday morning, April 28th, Mr. Muller
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60 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS preached at the Tabernacle Presbyterian Church, Tyler Street, to about 1,800 people; in the evening he ad- dressed nearly 2,900 at the same church ; and on the 29th preached at the MetropoJitan Temple to a congre- gation of 800. · On the 30th a gentleman called in his carriage and took us for a drive to Cliff House, seven miles distant, near the Golden Gate, a strait two miles wide, which leads from the Bay into the Pacific Ocean. Many years ago the spot on which_San Franciscb now stands was covered with hills formed of sand, blown there in immense quantities from the shores of the Pacific by the strong winds which constantly prevail ; but now a " magnificent city," &11 some eall it, has been erected upon the site that formerly was nothing but a barren waste. Upon arriving at the coast of the Pacific, we took a walk upon the beach, a vast region composed entirely of sand, which, as no rain falls in California from the middle of April until October, becomes ex- tremely troublesome, because it is blown inland in pro- digious quantities for miles by the trade winds, for which that locality is noted. During the winter rain falls every day ; but frost, except in the mountains and northern portions of the State, generally speaking, is unknown. During our walk the tide was nearly high ; but, when low, beautiful shells in great variety are found upon these shores. After walking some time upon the sands, • our friend conducted us to Cliff House, an Hotel built upon a high rock overlooking the ocean, where, from a .....
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OF· GEORGE MULLER. 61 ba.lcony, we had an opportunity of observing the sea- lions, by which the rocks that stand out in the sea are frequented. Hundreds of these curious, amphibious creatures were there, with their pointed heads, and, bodies shining with salt water. Some were basking in the sunshine on dry portions of the cliffs, others were plunging into the sea, several were climbing up sloping places on the rocks, and· others were barking discord- antly. Soon after our arrival at Cliff House, a young waiter introduced himself as the brother of Emma Evans, one of the orphans formerly on Ashley Down. He knew we were in the United States, and having often heard Mr. Millier preach in Bristol years ago, recognized him with great delight, and before our departure pre- sented us with a beautiful bouquet of flowers, as a little token of his gratitude. After our return to San Francisco, on the evening of that day, my husband preached at the First Congrega- tional Church, to a large assembly, with great help and earnestness. Amongst the congregation were some Chinese, who occupied front seats near the pulpit. On the -afternoon of May 1st we visited China. Town, situated in a part of San Francisco called Sacramento, which is thickly peopled with Chinese, where thousands of them live. The ground floors of many of their houses contain shops filled with curious and costly articles, manufactured by the natives of China and J a.pan; but most of the Chinese live down in places like "oollars underneath their shops, where. they dwell crowded
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62 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOUR& together, smoking and eating quantities of opium.' On the evening of that day Mr. Miiller preached at Broad- way German Methodist Episcopal Church, when he ad- dreBSed a large number of Germans in their own Ian-· guage ; and the following evening held a meeting at a church in Howard Street. On May 3rd we walked to the top of a hill not far distant, and from it looked down upon the Bay, and upon San Francisco. "The first house ever built therewas in the year 1835, which was the commencement of a village, afterwards called ' Yerba Buena,' or good herb, from a medicinal plant growing in great abundance in the vicinity. At the present time, great . numbers of eucalyptus trees flourish in the neighbourhood ; which, from their sani- tary properties, are considered a great bleBBingto the people. In 1847 the name of the city was changed to San Francisco; in 1848 (the year that gold was first discovered in California) the population had grown to 1,000; and from this small beginning it steadily in- creased, until in 1870 it reached 149,482. Now, the city contains about 256,000 inhabitants, including 50,000 Chinese, and many thousands of negroes." On the evening of that day Mr. Miiller preached at the Calvary Presbyterian Church, to about 1,200 people, when he spoke for nearly an hour and a half, with great power and earnestness. On Sunday, May 5th, he preached in the morning at the First Baptist Church, and· in the evening at the Calvary Presbyterian, from. Romans viii. 28-30, when the Church, a very large one,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 63 was crowded to the utmost, the body of the building and the galleries being so thronged, that numbers who could not gain admittance went away. His appeal to believers, and words of warning . to the unconverted, were of a weighty, solemn character. Several gentle- men and ladies occupied seats upon the platform, and the steps leading up to it were filled with hearers. On the 6th, at 2 in the afternoon, he attended a meeting of pastors belonging to the city and the State, some of whom came a distance of 20, 30 and 50 miles in order to be present at the meetin~, when he addressed about 150 of his brethren in the ministry for an hour and 20 minutes. In the evening at the Tabernacle, Tyler Street, he preached a farewell sermon. The congregation was large ; numbers took leave of us as they left the build- ing, and a beautiful bouquet of choice flowers was handed in as a parting gift by a gentleman who once lived in England. On May 8th we left San Francisco and went to Oak- land, where Mr. Miiller preached in the evening at the First Baptist Church. On the 9th he addressed 1,000 people at the First Congregational Church, and on the 10th preached to about the same number at the First Methodist Church. On the 11th a gentleman took us in his carriage to visit the University of California, six miles distant,_which stands upon high ground, command- ing a distant view of the Bay, Government Island, Goat Island, etc. ; but we could only see the exterior of the buildings, as they were closed to visitors on Saturdays. ·
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64: MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On our return we drove through Oakland, a name de- rived from the fine groves of "live oaks," in the midst of which the town was originally built. These trees are not ornamental only, but they serve to screen the place from the fierce gales that blow through the '' Golden Gap" in summer, to the force of which Oakland is particularly exposed ; for the climate of San Francisco and the neighbourhood has this peculiarity, that in summer the strongest and most trying winds prevail, tho.11gh,at all times of the year, trade winds from the Pacific set in every morning at 11 o'clock, and last for about five hours. During our drive, the only discomfort was the dust, which, from the lack of rain in this country, soon becomes extremely troublesome ; and the scorching h1mtof the sun would have been overpower- ing, if. it had not been tempered by breezes from the Bay. On Sunday morning, May 12th, Mr. Miiller preached at the First Methodist Episcopal Church, from let Chron. iv. 10, to a large, attentive audience; and, when the service was over, Sheang Chack, a Chinese convert, who labours amongst his own countrymen, came to shake hands with us. In the evening my husband preached at the First Presbyterian Church, a large building in the shape of an amphitheatre, where there was a "Union Service," all the principal churches having been closed, that their congregations might attend this meeting. He spoke for an hour from Lamentations iii. 22-26 ; but the crowd was so great that hundreds were unable to obtain ad- . I
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 65 mittance. After the service, a pastor said-" We have bad a glorious meeting." On the afternoon of the 13th Mr. Miiller addressed the young ladies at Mills' Semi- nary, six miles from Oakland; in the evening be preached · in German at th~ Methodist Episcopid Church ; and on the following day attended a Sunday School State Convention at San Francisco, where he addressed. many hundreds of Christian Workers for an hour and a quarter. Early on the morning of May 15th we left by rail for Santa Cruz, in South California, on the Pacific coast, 120 miles from San Francisco ; and after a tedious journey reached our destination at four o'clock. Rooms had been engaged for us at Pope's Cottage, a Boarding house in a lovely situation on a hill, about a mile from the sea-shore; and in the evening at 8 Mr. Miiller preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, where we were heartily welcomed both by the pastor and the con- gregation. On the following evening he held another meeting at the same church. On the 17th we went by rail· to Felton, seven miles from Santa Cruz, to see some of the "Big Trees,"for which California is celebrated ; and, after crossing a rustic bridge and passing through a shady glen, reached a secluded spot, where the large trees be- came more immense than usual. Some of them are of gigantic growth, and shoot up their tall, straight trunks, like towering masts, into the sky. The largest of these trees is 62 feet in circumference; its height. I'
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66 MISSION.ARY TOURS AND LABOURS was originally 371 feet, but, the upper portion of the trunk having been blown off', its present height· is 296 feet only. It is a kind of cedar, called the " red wood," belonging to the " Sequoia Gigante&,,. species ; but, in other parts of California, there are "Big Trees" considerably larger than the ones we saw. At Mari- posa, for instance, the " Grizzly Giant " is 107 fe~t in circumference, 34 in diameter, and 400 high ; and the. first branch, nearly 200 feet from the ground, is 8 feet in diameter. In the evening, after our return, Mr. Miiller preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, for the third and last time at Santa Cruz, as, in consequence of other engagements, we were unable to prolong our stay_. On May 18th, at 9.30 a.m., we set off', viA Pajaro, for San J oee (pronounced Yode) ; and, after a journey by rail of 70 miles, arrived there in the afternoon at half-past 2. At the Auzierais Hotel, the following letter, from a pastor at Oakland, was awaiting our arrival :- " Oakland, May 15th, 1878. " DEAR BROTHER,-! have just returned from our prayer meeting, and it may be a source of gratitude and encouragement to you to know, that very many testi- monies were given to the great benefit received from your ministrations here. In fact there is evidence on every hand, that the seed you have sown has taken root in many hearts. The faith of God's children has been greatly strengthened, and principles of divine truth and Christian life have been received through your teaching, which will
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 67 be of great good for mam,y manyyears to come. I rejoice with hundreds of others here, that God has led you to these shores, to teach us the way of God more perfectly. May the Lord wonderfully sustain you and your good wife, in your labours from place to place. · You will have the prayers of a host of brethren beloved, who will hence- fort~ have a great interest in you personally, and a still deeper interest in the cause of our dear Lord which you are labouring to promote.-With much love and grati- tude for your faithful services, I am "YOUR BROTHER IN CHRIST, * * * *." That night, at 8 o'clock, Mr. Muller preached for the first time at San Jose, at the Methodist Episcopal Church, where, though it was Saturday evening, there was a large congregation. He preached also on the morning and evening of Sunday the 19th, to crowded audiences at the same Church. At the close of the latter meeting, numbers of friends came forward to shake hands with us, who, in the warmest terms, expressed delight at our visit to their city. "San Jose isin the middle of the Santa Clara Valley; and, in consequence of its healthful climate, which is a medium between the cold winqsof the coast and the hot valleys of the interior, is much resorted to by invalids. One street is occupied entirely by French inhabitants, and another quarter only by Chinese." During our stay there, on May 20th, we took a drive, through Alameda Valley, to Santa Clara, a beautiful little town three miles distant, which contains several Churches, Schools, and the Pacific F-2 ---
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68 ;MISSION.ARY TOURS AND LABOURS University. Here Mr. Miiller preached twice, and, besides the inhabitants of Santa· Clara, several persons from SanJose came over to attend the meetings; but we remained one night only, and late on the evening of the 21st returned to SanJose. The next morning a letter arrived from San Francisco, written by a lady, who earnestly commended her only daughter to our prayers. This young person was con- verted at the age of 15, but two years afterwards became a prey to the delusions of Spiritualism, to which she clung tenaciously for nine years. At San Francisco, however, she beard Mr. Miiller preach several times, and was so impressed hy one sermon in particular, that her poor mother fully hoped she would be restored to soundness in the faith. She wrote-" You are the first person who has found the way to her heart for these nine years. She crossed the Bay last Sunday morning to hear you, and says she would not have lost that sermon for 100 dollars. Oh ! howm'Ud& I wish you could see her I but, as you cannot, what I want is, that you will make her case a special subject of prayer. She is dearer to me than my own life, and I would be willing to die a thousand deaths to save her. Oh I help by your prayers.-~.--." Early on the morning of May 22nd we went by rail to Stockton, 70 miles from San Jose, where, at 3 in the afternoon, Mr. Miiller addressed 22 pastors and about 130 other Christian workers for an hour and ten minutes, and, during our short stay, held two other meetings.
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 69 At Stockton the heat became oppressive, and walking out of doors in the middle of the day was given up. There, too, at night, as there were no net curtains, we had terrible conflict with the mosquitos ; but, though we killed them by the score, could do very little in the way of exterminating the foe, so that our visit to Stockton was marked by a regular mosquito war. Our rest at night was so disturbed, that we were scarcely fit for travelling ; but, having been repeatedly advised by several Christian friends, on no account to leave Cali- fornia without visiting the celebrated Yosemite Valley, in that State, and as my husband desired to have a little break for a few days, after so much constant preaching, on May 24th, at 8 a.m., we left by train for Milton, 30 miles from Stockton. There, a large, old- fashioned conveyance, combining coach and omnibus together, was waiting for the passengers, into which we, and several others stepped ; ~d, drawn by four horses, were driven off' towards the Sierra Nevada mountains. For some miles our road lay across an open plain, with- out houses, where the scanty vegetation was nearly burned up by the sun's scorching rays, and what little wind there was resembled a sirocco; but, after. a· drive of fourteen miles, we arrived at Copperopolis, so called from the quantity of copper ore found there. At one o'clock, after changing horses, we left ,Copperopolis- reached Chinese Camp, eighteen miles further, at 4 ; and, after getting into a smalJer conveyance, at 6 o'clock continued our journey, with only one gentleman
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70 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS passenger besides ourselves. Though often told that travelling by Oalifomian stage-waggon would prove an adventure never to be forgotten, scarcely were we pre- pared for the unpleasant jolting that now awaited us. Our coachman drove furiously. Rough and smooth, hill and dale, all were alike to him. Now we were driven over one great stone, and then came into collision with another·; and as for a drag, going down hill, such a, thing was never thought of. The man was doubtless an experienced driver, or at any rate he was a fearless one; but, being ourselves sober-minded persons, un- accustomed to S11ch" go-ahead " proceedings, we should have been thankful to take things more quietly ; and, besides this, desired greatly to reach our journey's end with no bruises and without broken bones. Through the Lord's kindness, however, we reached Priest's Hote~ on a high hill, twelve miles from Chinese Camp, in safety, where we alighted for 'the night; and, after a journey of eleven hours and a half, retired immediately to rest. Our room was small, and reminded us of the little apartment we occupied at the Hospice on Mount St. Gothard, Switzerland, but it was comfortable, and not a single mosquito was there to disturb our night's repose. The next morning we rose punctually at 4, and at 5 our journey in another stage-waggon, drawn by five horses, was continued. The early morning air was cool and pleasant; and the sky unclouded; but our new driver also urged on the horses to their utmost speed, and, afte~ rattling up and down steep declivities, and
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 71 galloping along rugged roads, we reached the end of a stage of about 18 miles, and got into another waggon. Our next coachman, happily, was of a different mould, for he conducted us slowly and carefully along. At 12 we reached the dinner station, and at 1 set off again in another waggon, with five fresh horses. At 3 o'clock we alighted at some "Big Trees," the largest of which was 66 feet in circumference, and 420 feet in·height; and, through the trunk of a tree partially burned down, a road was being made, wide enough for two carriages side by side to be driven between the outside portions of the stump. After leaving the" Big Trees," our journey was continued, and, having gradually all the morning been going up lull, an elevation of about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea was shortly reached, where much snow lay upon the ground. At about 4 o'clockwe began gradually to descend into the Valley ; and, as the waggon was slowly driven down hil~ the wonders of the great Yosemite (pronounced Yozemitty) at every turn broke in upon· us. Stupendous perpendicular precipices,as we ad~anced, reared their gigantic summits, like enormous walls, into the sky ; the Bridal Veil Waterfall, with its rainbow hues, looked beautiful ; whole ranges of rocky peaks and towering heights were seen; and one Cataract succeeded another, until at last, soon after 6 o'clock, we drove up to Barnard's Hotel, exactly opposite the Falls of the Yosemite. The next morning (Sunday, May 26th) Mr. Muller preached in the large dining-room of the Hote~ where
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72 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS he addressed the visitors of the house, and of the two other Hotels in the Valley. A gentleman from San Francisco, another from the Eastern Sta_tes, a lawyer from Washington, two gentlemen from England, some ladies, and a number of other persons formed the con- gregation. After the service we conversed with several, and distributed little books and tracts amongst them, wliich were gratefully accepted. Being without hymn books, there was no singing; and our only music was the thunder of the Cataract close by. The next morning we surveyed the Falls of the Yose- mite, three in one, formed by a stream of water which takes a leap of 1,600 feet from the top of the rock into a vast basin of rock, where, gathering strength, it again leaps forth a distance of 434 feet, and, falling between the North Dome and the Three Brothers, rebounds, and takes its final plunge of 600 feet into the Valley. Twenty- four thousand gallons of water roll over the edge of the cliff every minute ; and probably no Falls in the world can be compared with these in height. During our brief sojourn in the Yosemite, we visited all its chief points of interest. " This Valley is oli the western slope of the Sierra N evadas, and is a narrow gorge about 10 miles long and half a mile in width, enclosed ·within gigantic granite precipices like monstrous walls, which rise, almost unbroken and perpendicular, to a height of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the green, quiet vale beneath. Its most remarkable features are its perpen- dicular walls, and their great height, as compared with
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 73 the narrow width of the Valley. In the spring and early summer it is one vast flower garden, and plants, shrubs, and flowers, of every hue, cover the ground as with a carpet. :EJ.Capitan is the most prominent attraction it contains, which,·though not as high as some of its giant neighbours, is remarkable for its isolation, height, prodigious breadth, bold shape, and defiant atti- tude, as it stands up like an enormous wall, the Great chief of the Yosemite. It is 3,300 feet above the Valley, -which is itself 4,000 feet abovethe level of the sea- is solid, massive, seamless, thousands of millions of tons in weight ; and its grey granite aides, destitute of vege- tation, are perpendicular."* The Bridal Veil Waterfall leaps a distance of 940 feet into the Valley, and a beau- tiful rainbow was produced by the sun's rays as they fell upon it. From Artists' Point and Inspiration Point a fine general view of the Yosemite is obtained; and three miles oft'is Mirror Lake, at the foot of, and between the North and South Dome, which reflects every rock, ledge, and mountain like a mirror. The Cathedral Rocks, the Sentinel Rock, the Three Brothers, etc., also form a portion of the mountain scenery. The Vernal Fall, or Cataraot of Diamonds, and the Nevada Falls, in wild, romantic situations, are also grand and beautiful ; but, as the wonders of this neighbourhood, if entered into fully, would require a volume, a minute description of them cannot be attempted. * "Nordhoff's California."
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74 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On May 29th we rose at half-past 4, and at 6, after taking outside seats, started, with ten other passengers, · in a stage waggon, drawn by five horses, on our return journey. Our drive wpthe mountains, which was slow and gradual, occupied several hours; but in the afternoon we began to descend them on the other side, when the road became wider and the route less solitary, and at 4 o'clock a cart approached, in which a man and woman were seated. They drew up on one side of the road to let us pass, when, just as our waggon reached the spot, the woman stood up and eagerly called out, " Is that' George Miiller ,,, "It is," was the reply. "Then I mustshake hands with you, Sir. I have read your' Life of Trust,' and it has been a great blessingto my soul" With this the good woman leaned forward and stretched out her hand ; we shook hands also with her husband; but who they were, and whence they came, we knew not, nor was there any time to ask. . Her last words were, "Pray for me!" After changing horses twice, towards evening we reached a district upon level ground, which had been cut up into a vast number of furrows and channels for gold digging, where hundreds of acres had been cleared completely of the precious metal. . At 6 o'clock we reached Priest's Hotel, and were afterwards driven at a rapid rate down the steep hill close to it. A ferry boat then conveyed us across the Tuama River whilst seated in the waggon ; the horses waded through Wood's Creek, and at last we reached the Garret House, Chinese Camp, where at half-past 7 we alighted for the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 75 niglit. The next day we rose at half-past 3, and at a quarter before 5 were again " en route." At the Union Hotel, Copperopolis, we arrived in two hours and three- quarters, and at half-past 10 reached ·Milton, from which place we went on immediately by rail to Stockton, where our luggage (which had been.telegraphed for) was sent to meet us at the station. At a quarter past 12 on the same day (May 30th) we left for Sacramento, the capital of California, 48 miles from Stockton, where Mr. Miiller preached at one of the Churches in the evening to about 1,000 persons. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, he held another meeting, and in the evening preached, for the third and last time, at Sacramento to a very large audience. On June 1st, at 2 p.m., we set off by the Central Pacific Railway for Salt Lake City; on the 2nd distributed little books and tracts ~ongst the passengers, by whom the train was crowded; and at ~ a.m., on June 3rd, reached Ogden, where, branching off for SaltLakeCity, the capital of Utah, 1,068 miles West of Omaha,and 916 East of San Francisco, we arrived at 11.40 the same morning. "It lies in a great valley, extending close to the W.ahsatch Moun- tains on the North, with more than 100 miles of plains stretching towards the South ; beyond which, in the dis- tance, rise snow covered mountains, the highest of which is 11,400 feet above the level of the sea. The waters of the Great Salt Lake are ,so salt, that no living creature can exist in them. The city covers an area of nine square miles, its streets, or roads, are long and very wide ;
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76 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS and, as each dwelling has a garden, or orchard, the whole place looks like one large plantation." In the evening, at the Congregational Church, Mr. Miiller preached the gospel in this city, which is the great stronghold of Mormonism, in the plainest, clearest, most decided manner; and on the following day had interviews with several Christians. Before our departure we visited the great Mormon Tabernacle, said to hold 13,000 people. It is of wood, and has 46 pillars of red sandstone, with an immense dome resting on them like a roof; but it did not look large enough to contain more than from 9,000 to 10,000 at the utmost. Lion House, the former residence of Brigham Young, was also pointed out. His body lies buried in a miserable, neglected piece of ground, a sort of back yard, and his grave is covered by a large, flat stone, bearing an inscription ; but what the epitaph upon it was, we did not care to ascertain. The residences of his 18 wives are also in the city. From Camp Douglas, a military station, which stands upon an eminence outside the town, Salt Lake City appears embowered in trees, and little more than the roofs of the houses are visible. In the evening Mr. Miiller preached at the Methodist Church, where he addressed a large congregation, in- cluding several Mormons ; and after the service ·con- versed with many of the hearers. Having been told that his ministry was more needed at Salt Lake City than at almost any other place in the wwld, he greatly regretted being unable to hold other meetings ; but as
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 77 our time was limited, and engagements had been made for other places, we could not possibly remain. The morning of June 5th, therefore, was fixed upon for our departure, when we rose at a quarter before 5, and at 7 o'clock left by train for Ogden, 35 miles distant, whence,after engaging a "section" in a Pullman's caniage, we set oft',at 10, by the Union Pacific Railway, for Omaha. The train, a very long one, was full of passengers, and, when seated in the carriage, we heard tha~ a gentleman, · an invalid, had died suddenly the night before, whilst travelling on the· Central Pacific Railway. After he had retired to hie berth, a violent fit of coughing came on, which occasioned the rupture of a blood veBBeiand in three minutes he was dead. He was not ~companied by any relative or friend. Some railway officials carried hie body immediately into the smoking compartment ; but, though the circumstance was concealed from' the other paBBengereas much as poBBl"ble, the sad event eoon became generally known. On the 6th we breakfasted at Rock Creek; reached Summit House, Sherman, ~235 feet above the level of the sea, at half-past one; dined at Cheyenne; and, after travelling ~or some hours, reached the prairies, on which there were a few wild antelopes and immense herds of cattle, followed by men on horseback keeping them together. At 2 o'clock, on June 7th, we reached Tremont,and at 4.30 arrived at Omaha, a journey of 1,032 miles from Ogden. At a quarter before 5 our journey was continued, when, after croBBingthe Missouri, we went on to _CouncilBluft'B,and there got into a train
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78 :MISSION.ARYTOURS AND LABOURS with an Hotel car attached to it, containing a kitchen and a dining-room. On June 8th we rose early, breakfasted at 7 in the dining-room, reached Davenport at 11, and, after crossing the MissiBBippi,arrived at Rock Island, the other side of the river. Later in the day we crossed the · Illinois, and at 4 in the afternoon ~ved at Chicago, after a journey of 503 miles from Oma.ha. On Sunday morning (the 9th) Mr. Millier preached at the First Congregational Church, to about 1,500 people; and in the evening held a meeting at Mr. Moody's Taber- nacle, which seats 3,000. It contained an immense audience, and numbers, including the choir, were on the platform. "Hold the fort, for I am coming," was sung with great spirit at the opening of the service, the vast audience joining heartily in the chorus ; and after prayer and the reading of the Scriptures, my _husbandspoke for an hour with much help and earnestness. When the meeting was over, William Howell, an Orphan, formerly on Ashley Down, who left in 1860, came up to shake hands with us, and was delighted to meet his early friend and benefactor. On the following afternoon, Mr. Millier spoke at Far- well Hall, for an hour and a quarter, to an audience of about 2,500, including many pastors; after the meet- ing we shook hands with multitudes, amongst whom were two more Orphans, formerly on Ashley Down, and, on the morning of the 11th, took a drive with some friends through Chicago, when the scene of the great conflagra- tion of October, 1871, was pointed out.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 79 " It had its origin in a small wooden barn or cow-shed, in the W estem district of the city, and, the fire gradually increasing, the flames, fanned by a strong westerly wind, at last raged like a furnace, sweeping everything before them; so that stone, iron, brick, and other hard sub- stances, were burned up like chaff, the intensity of the · heat being indescribable. From the very outset the fire had been completely beyond the control of any human agency, and it was only after it had raged with the utmost fury for up~ of four-and-twenty hours, that a great storm providentially drenched the city, and stopped the progress of the flames. The number of buildings destroyed was 17,450, and 98,500 persons were rendered homeless ; but the hearts of millions were touched by the catastrophe, and from all parts of the world contributions for the relief of the suft'erers were sent in. Three millions and a half of dollars promptly came to hand, and were the means, under God, of saving Chicago from the horrors which usually follow such an awful calamity." On the afternoon of that day Mr. Millier preached again at Farwell Hall; and in the evening we attended a "reception," at a gentleman's house, where about 50 Christian friends had been invited to meet us. On the morning of the 12th my husband addressedabout 200 pastors and ministers for an hour and a quarter; and in a note from a hearer received afterwards the writet said,- " The meeting. this morning was one of p<Yl,D6f', I do not know· of better days in the churches and in Farwell Hall than these. The witness our Lord has sent by Mr.
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80 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Miiller is one of Olll'greatest blessings." In the evening my husband preached at Dr. Gibson's Church from the Epistle of Jude, verses 20, 21, and on the following morn- ing spoke, for the last time at Chicago, at Farwell Hall, on the Second Coming of Christ, to nearly 2,000 people, a subject which led many to inquire about this truth, who afterwards obtained light respecting it. In the afternoon at 5 o'clock, we left by rail for Cleve- land, Ohio, 353 miles from Chicago; travelled along the shores of Lake Michigan, a great inland sea, 500 miles in length, and from 90 to 100 miles in breadth ; and on June 14th, at 7 a.m., arrived at Cleveland, where Mr. Miiller preached six times at the great Tabernacle to .I immense congregations, occasionally numbering about 3,000 each. His last address, on June 17th, was upon the Second Coming of the Lord, when he spoke with great help and power. At Cleveland we remained a short time only ; for having, when at San Francisco, .re- ceived an earnest invitation to return to Washington, on account of the blessing which accompanied his ministry during olll' first visit; on June 18th, at 5 p.m., we left, and, after a journey of 524 miles, arrived at Washington the next morning at 9 o'clock. Here Mr. Miiller held seven meetings, including services at Lincoln Hall, the Calvary Baptist, Wesley, Fourth Presbyterian, and Lutheran Memorial Chlll'ches ;. and, on-flun:tiayevening, June 23rd, at the Metropolitan Qhurch, he preached a farewell sermon from 2nd Tim/iv. 7, 8. On June 24th we rose at half-past 3, left Washington
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 81 by an early train, and reached Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, at 11 a.m., where we visited the field upon which, on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd of July, 1863, the great battle was fought between the Union forces of the Americans under General Meade, and the Confederate army under General Lee, when the latter was defeated with a 1088of many thousands of men. " In the National, or Soldiers' Cemetery on the hill, there is a monument 60 feet high, around which are ranged, in semi-circular slopes, the graves of many who fell during the war. The divisions between the States are marked by alleys and pathways radiating from the monument to the outer circle, the rows of graves being divided by continuous granite blocks, a few inches high, upon which are the name and regiment of each soldier, as far as could be ascertained. Originally about 32,000 corpses were interred in this Cemetery, but eventually the Southem States removed the- bodies of their own soldiers and deposited them elsewhere." To look upon this burial ground, literally sown with the corpses of the slain, was an affecting sight; but Jesus is coming and the resurrection, when "all that are in the graves shall hear his voice, and shall come forth ; they that have done good unto the resurrection of life,-and they that have done evil ttnto the resurrection of damnation." This Cemetery is kept in beautiful order by the Government. After leaving it, we returned to Gettysburg, and in the evening a meeting was held at the College Church, when Mr. Miiller addressed the students at Pennsylvania G
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82 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS College, the students of the Theological Seminary, and a large number of other persons for an hour and 20 minutes. On June 25th we rose at 5, and leaving Gettysburg by the 6.45 train, reached New York the same afternoon, where we remained until Thursday, the 27th, and on the afternoon of that day, at 2 o'clock, sailed in the" Adriatic" (White Star Line) for Liverpool. On Sunday morning, June 30th, Mr. Miiller gave an address from John xiv. 2, 3, to the cabin passengers, ship's officers, and a few steerage passengers in the saloon, held a conversational meeting likewise in the afternoon, , and on the following Sunday morning, July 7th, gave another address in the saloon, a service which closed his labQursfor that tour. In the course of it he spoke 308 times in public, and we travelled nineteen thousand two hundred and forty-seven miles by land and by water altogether. At 3 p.m. we landed at LiverpoQl, returned the .followingday to Bristol, and upon arriving in an open carriage at the top of Ashley Hill at half- past 4, found a little army of the Orphan boys and girls, with almost all our helpers at the Orphan Houses, wait- ing to receiye us. There, as we slowly drove along, the boys cheered heartily, and the girls waved their hand- kerchiefs, determined, as a by-stander remarked, to give us "a right royal welcome"; and, at the entrance of New Orphan House No. 3, a crowd of children closed around us, with loving, friendly greetings.
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OF GEORGEHULLER. 83 FIFTH TOUR. CONTINENT OF EUROPE. Fr<Ym, Sept. 5th, 1878, to June 18th, 1879. A FTER remaining at the Orphan Houses on Ashley Down for eight weeks and three days, (a period which gave Mr. Miiller time to attend to business con- nected with the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and to resume his public ministry in Bristol,) on Sept. 5th, 1878, we went to Dover, crossed over to Calais the next morning, and reached Paris by rail at 6 p.m. On Sunday, the 8th, morning and evening, my husband preached in English at the Chapelle Evangelique, Rue Royale, and held another meeting there on the evening of the 9th. On the following day we left Paris for Dijon, and passed the night there ; rose at 4 the next morning; and, after continuing our journey to Neu- chAtel,proceeded thence to Berne, where we arrived at 7 o'clock. On the evening of Thursday, Sept. 12th, Mr. Miiller preach(ld in German at the Salle Evangelique, which was crowded.to overflowing,the lower part of the building, galleries and stair-cases being thronged. On the 13th he held a meeting at the Eglise Fran~se ; on the 14th addressed some poor people at a small Institu- G-2
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84 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS tion at Muri, ;near Berne ; on the 15th, 16th and 17th preached at the great Eglise Fran¢se to very large congregations ; gave an addreBBon the morning of the a 18th, at Seminary near the Fest Riitte, to 65 young men who were being trained for teachers ; and at 2 p.m. the same day we left by rail for Thun, 18 miles from Berne. From there we drove to Gurzelen, a village on the mountains, three miles from Thun, in a lovely situation near the Alps, where, for .the benefit of the poor of that locality, my husband held two meetings at a Vereins Haus, which was crowded with people from the country. On Sept. 19th we returned to Berne, and the following evening attended a social meeting of Christians at " Die Enge," where he gave an address, and afterwards answered some important questions that were put to him. On the afternoon of Sept. 21st he spoke to between 600 and 700 Christian workers, including 300 teachers of different denomina- tions, at the Salle Evangelique ; held a meeting on the afternoon of Sunday, the 22nd, at the Fest Hiitte, and on the evening of that day preached a farewell sermon, at the Eglise Fra:u98,ise,to an immense audience. On this occasion his subject was the Second Coming of the Lord, on which he was enabled to speak with great power, and much to the profit of his hearers, as we heard afterwards. At the close of this ·meeting, before the benediction, Colonel von Biiren rose, and, on behalf of the Christians of Berne,· thanked him publicly for his visit to the city; and here, before proceeding any -I
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 85 further, it seems desirable to make the following ol;>ser- vations :- Some of the readers of this Narrative may possibly feel inclined to say-" With so much travelling from place to place, so many public meetings, and such con- tinual intercourse with strangers, how does Mr. Miiller find time to attend to his ownspiritual welfare 1 Whence does he obtain refreshment for the inner man himself1 How do matters stand between his ownsoul and Christ 1 -because persons who are continually engaged in minia-- tering to others, more than a'TIY class of individuals that can be mentioned, require divine grace and wisdom for themse,lves."The replyto such inquiries is this :-Through the goodness of the Lord, he is a man givento the reading of the Scriptures and to prayer. Whether travelling_or at rest, a day 'M'Verpasses, without his devoting as much time as possible to the diligent, prayerful study of the word of God. He is a man of onebook; and that book is the Bible. Besides reading the Scriptures regularly together early in the morning; in the course of the day, whenever there is time, my husband employs it in study- ing the Bible, in meditation and in prayer. He waits habitually upon God, and thus it is, "that day by day, his spiritual strength and vigour are renewed. This oppor- tunity is taken, however, of commending him earnestly to the prayers of the Lord's people; whether he may be known or unknown to them personally. On Sept. 23rd, at 9 in the morning, some sweet sing- ing outside the door of our room announced the un-
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86 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS expected anival of Dr. Blosch, a party of Orphan girls belonging-to the Institution he has founded, and four ·teachers, who all stood outside in the passage until the German hymn was finished; when a large bouquet of flowers from the gardens of the children was handed in, a wreath of ivy, and an address in German, beautifully written, congratulating Mr. Miiller upon the approach of his birthday, on the 27th, and giving him Isaiah liv. 10, as a Scripture portion. These young girls brought a small contribution also from their own little pocket money, for the Orphans on Ashley Down. Their whole visit was of a most touching character. After my husband had spoken to them for a few minutes, they sang another hymn; we then shook hands with them all, and the whole party took leave of us. On the 24th we left Berne for Thun, at 10.40 a.m., proceeded thence by steamer to the other end of the lake, and afterwards went on by rail to Interlaken, where we arrived at 2 o'clock. There, at half-past 3, Mr. Muller preached at the English Church in German ; but, as the weather was unfavourable, the congregation was very small On the evening of the following day, how- ever, when he held another meeting at the same Church, the audience was about five times as large as it had been on the previous afternoon. Interlakeii. is in the vicinity of the glaciers of Grindelwald, the Faulhorn, and the Wengern Alp; and is within a few miles of the water- falls, Giessbach, on Lake Brientz, and Staubbach in the Valley of the Lauterbrunnen. The Jungfrau also, and
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OF GEORGE HULLER. 87 other mountains, can be seen from the town. From Interlaken, on the 26th, we went to Thun, the chief town of the Bernese Oberland, where, on that evening and the next, he addressed crowded congregations at the German Methodist Church. On the 28th, by particular invita.tion, we returned to Gurzelen, where, on Sunday morning (29th), Mr. Miiller preached at the village Church to a congregation of country people, some of whom had walked many miles to hear him. This place of worship was a quaint, old-fashioned building. An hour-glass on a stand (intended, probably, to remind the preacher of the flight of time, and to admonish him not to be too long in delivering his discourse,) projected conspicuously from the pulpit. In the evening my husband held a meeting at the Vereins Haus, and there addressed a very crowded congregation. On Sept. 30th we went to NeuchAtel, in French Switzerland, where, on Oct. the 1st and 2nd, he preached in German at " Le Temple," and held a " German- French " meeting at the same place on the 3rd ; that is, he occupied the pulpit, and spoke in German, whilst a French pastor, in the desk below, translated his Sermon into French. The congregation was very large, and Monsieur Nagel succeeded admirably with the transla- tion. On the 4th Mr. Miiller held a second meeting of the same kind at "Le Temple," when he was listened to with the deepest interest and attention;· and the follow- ing morning a French brother call.ed to congratulate. him on the success of his ministry at ~euchAte:li." for"
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88 MISSIONARY TOURs AND LAB(?URS (aaid he) "toute la population a ete saisie et emue." On Oct. 6th my husband preached at the Salle des Con- ferences; on the 7th he spoke in English at the Oratoire, and, on our return in the evening, the following letter from one of his French hearers arrived by post. " Tres Reverend Monsieur le Pasteur Miiller de Bristol,-Soyez beni pour le bien que vous m'avez fait I Depuis neuf ans, sans relAche, les plus cruelles epreuves m'ont ete dispensees. Il a plu au Seigneur, apres des annees d'affreuses maladies, de me retirer une mbre adoree, femme eminente, puis, un pbre bien aime,une sreur unique, un neveu cheri comme un ti.ls,et d'autres afflictions, et ensuite et en m6me temps, d'une maniere particulierement douleureuse, les trois quarts de ma fortune. Il a plu au Seigneur de m'envoyer coup sur coup, to11Sles dechirements, tout.es les douleurs, toutes lea diffi.cultesde la vie, et de me laisser ainsi a l'entree 4e la veillesse, dans le pl118douleureux isolement. Ma foi, jadis si ferme, defaillait, le decouragement m' ecrasait; souvent je ne pouvais plus prier, et j'arrivais a un etat de mort spirituelle. Soyez beni Monsieur le Pasteur I Il me fal,l,a,itvotre J>arole simple, ferme, concise, ener- gique, convaincue, ardente, brulante de foi et d'amour, pour me raviver un peu. Soyez beni, cher et venere Pasteur ! J'ai suivi, quoique Suisse Fran~se, toutes vos conferences, et s'il plAit a Dieu, j'irai vo11Sentendre encore demain, au culte allemande, lundi au soir, a la Chapelle Anglaise, et mardi, au dernier sermon allemand. Adieu, cher et venere Pasteur ; que votre Dieu tout ....
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OJ' GEORGE IIULLBIL 89 puissant, tout hon, V0118 conserve pour sa gloire, et pour le bien de tons les malheureux. Une smur sous la croix." On the evening of the 8th, at "Le Temple," Mr. Miiller gave a farewell address to the inhabitants of Neuch&tel, and on the 11th we left for Lausanne, where, on the 13th and 14th, he preached at "Le Temple Alle- mand," which was crowded in every part. On the 15th he held an English service at the Chapelle Ecossaise,and on the 16th and 17th preached in German, with trans- lation into French by Monsieur Duprat, at the Chapelle des Terreaux. The next evening he held another Eng- lish service at the Chapelle Ecossaise ; on the morning of Sunday, the 20th, attended a Brethren's meeting for the breaking of bread, where he gave an address, and in· the evening preached again at the Temple Allemand in G~an. On Oct. 21st he preached in English at the Chapelle du Valentin, and, on the 22nd, in German at the Chapelle de Martheray; upon both occasions with translation into French. On the ·23rd we took a drive to the Cimetiere de la Sallaz,and visited the tomb of Manuel Matamoros, the well-known Spanish brother, so long imprisoned in his native country for Christ's sake, who died at Lausanne some time after his liberation, aged 32, from the effects of ill-treatment received during his confinement. The grave of the departed one, situa- ted in a beautiful part of the Cemetery, was surrounded by an iron railing, and covered by a flat stone monument, raised a little above the surface of the ground, on which the inscription in Spanish could easily be read.
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90 IIISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS The tomb of this beloved brother was an interesting object, and the Cemetery, in which it was situated, looked beautiful; for, although the autumn was so far advanced, roses and other flowers were in foll bloom. That evening Mr. Millier preached at the Presbyterian Church, and on the 24th, at the Temple Allemand, he gave a farewell address ; when, at the close of the ser- vice, Pastor Wagner, in the name of the Evangelical Alliance, thanked him, in the presence of the whole con- gregation, for his labours at Lausanne. Btµore our de- parture we saw a lime tree at Prilly, measuring 14 yards round the trunk, which was said to be 1,000 years old; bot, though the branches were large, and its circumference was great, it looked small compared with the " Big Trees " of California. On the afternoon of Oct. 25th we left Lausanne and embarked in a steamer at Ouchy, a small port on the Lake of-Geneva, for Vevey. Th~ Mr. Muller preached , at the German Church in the evening ; but, in conse- quence of a heavy thunderstorm and the torrents of rain which fell, the congregation was very small. On the following Sunday morning we attended a Brethren's meet- ing for the breaking of bread, where he spoke in English, with translation into French ; in. the evening he preached at the German Church ,a second time, and on the 28th held his last meeting a~ Vevey, at the same church. Thenextdaywewenton toMontreux, where he preached that evening and the next morning at the German Church. On the.mornings of Oct. 31st and Nov. 1st, and the after-
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OJ!' G;EORGElll7LLER. 91 noon of Sunday, Nov. 3rd, at the Eglise Ecossaise, he addressed large congregations of visitors staying at Mon- treux, Bex, Aigle, Clarens, Vernex and Vevey, and, on the evening of the 3rd, preached at the Eglise Libre in German, for the last time at Montreux. This town, sometimes called the Nice of Switzerland, is generally considered the most beautiful on the Lake of Geneva; and the Dent du Midi, the lake scenery and the mount.a.in ranges round it are very grand. Before our departure, we went through the Castle of Chillon, upon the margin of the lake, which is built in the style of the middle ages, and is now used as a prison for the whole Canton de Vaud. Its dungeons (hewn in the foundation rock, and extend- ing 100 yards beneath the Castle, where, in the 14th and 15th centuries, thousands of Jews ,were decapitated, and other cruelties committed,) are shown to strangers. After leaving Montreux, we visited Bex, Aigle and Yverdun, at each of which places Mr. Millier held meet- ings, and, on Nov. 9th, went on to Geneva, where a series of services had been arranged for him by the Evangelical Alliance. There he preached at the Salle de la Refor- mation, the Casino, the Eglise Rive Droite, the Eglise Lutherienne, the German Swiss Church, the Lutheran Church, the English-American Church and the Oratoire de l'Eglise Libre, to very large congregations. On the 18th, at the Salle de la Reformation, a meeting was held expressly for pastors, theological professors of the U Diver- sity and theological students, whom he addressed for an hour, and afterwards replied to questions that were asked.
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92 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Whilst at Geneva, we visited the Protestant Cathedral Church of St. Peter, built in 1024, where Calvin used to preach, and saw the house in which he resided, and another in the Rue des Chanoines where he died. The Bibliotheque Publique, founded by Bonivard in 1551, contains 70,000 volumes, Calvin's manusempts,and some autographs and portraits of celebrated persons. There also, fastened to a high stand, was " La Bible Vulgate " of the 10th century, a ponderous volume, 'W'l'itten. by the monks throughout with pen and ink. During our walks at Geneva, the Mont Blane range, in French Savoy, about 45 miles distant, formed a conspicuous and beau- tiful object in the landscape, the highest point of which is 15,780 feet above the level of the sea. On Nov. 20th, at the Oratoire de l'Eglise Libre, Mr. Miiller held his last meeting at Geneva, and spoke in English upon that occasion, with translation into French by Professor de la Harpe. On the morning of the 21st, at half-past 10, we left by rail for Lyons, France; and, after a journey of 130 miles, reached our destination in the afternoon at half. past 4. Exactly opposite the windows of the Hotel to which we went, on a very high hill, called La Fourviere, the other side of the river, stood the Church of Notre Dame, with a gilded statue of the Virgin, 20 feet high, standing on its cupola, with arms outstretched; for Lyons is considered by the Papists to be under the pro- I , I tection of Mary, and as especially-" Consacree a la sainte vierge." ....___ ..
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 93 Soon after our arrival, a German pastor· called, and gave us an interesting account of his labours at Lyons during the preceding 27 years. This large, beautiful city, the second in France, is a stronghold of Popery; and, when he first arrived, no Protestant services could be held there; but after a terrible struggle to obtain sume religious liberty, through the influence of the British ambassador, permission to hold Protestant meetings was at last granted by the Government, provide,d the preaching should always be in German, and never in French. For the Protestants to derive any benefit, however, from this permission, was extremitydifficult, on account of the furious opposition of the Romish priests, "who (said he), if they had been able to do so, would gladly have burned me at the stake ; " but now, as their animosity is somewhat less fierce, French and German Protestant services are regularly held. The population of Lyons, about 350,000, is divided (this pastor further stated) into two classes, one half of whom consists of bigoted Papists, and the other of Infidels and Rationalists. There is, however, a ,;cry small Protestant community in this city, amongst whom a few real Christians are to be found. On Nov. 22nd Mr. Muller preached at the Chapelle Evangelique, Rue de la Lanteme, in English, with trans- lation into French by Monsieur Monod. Many assembled to hear him ; the presence and power ~f the Holy Spirit were felt; and it was a happy meeting. On the morning of Sunday (the 24th) he preached at the
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94 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS German Church-a small, insignificant building in a neighbouring street; and-in the afternoon heldanother meeting at the Chapelle Evangelique, where, considering the character of the population, the congregation was very large. Before our departure, we went to the top of La Fourviere, to see the prospect from the summit, which embraces the whole town and the surrounding · neighbourhood for many miles. Lyons, which is the chief manufacturing city of France, is situated at the junction of the rivers Saone and Rhone, the former of which is crosed by nine bridges, the latter by eight. It contains upwards of 10,000 establishments for the manufacture of· silk, which employ 120,000 looms, support 140,000 persons, and produce annually a supply of goods valued at nearly four hundred millions of francs. On Nov. 25t~ at the Chapelle Evangelique, my hus- band preached for tlie last time at Lyons. _The next morning we rose at 5, at a quarter before 7 left for Marseilles, and, after travelling for many miles through the Valley of the Rhone, reached our destination at half. past 3. On the 27th Mr. Miiller preached. at the Temple Evangelique, an " eglise nationale," where the congregation was large, and included several pastors and members of the Consistory. The service did not begin until half-past 8. On the following evening he preached again at the Temple, addressed the children of Miss Ranger's school in French on the afternoon of the 30th, . and, on·the evening of that day, and the afternoon of
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 95 Dec. 1st, preached again in Gerr,nanat Le Temple. On the evening of the 1st he gave a farewell address, in English, at the TempleEvangelique, and on Mondaymom- ing, Dec. 2nd, we left for Nismes by express at 10.4:5. As this town is a "Protestant centre," my husband preached that evening at the Chapelle W esleyenne to a crowded audience; and the followingafternoon a Christian gentleman conducted us through the town, to point out the Roman antiquities for which Nismes is famous. The principal building, the Amphitheatre, erected as long ago as from A.D. 138 to 160, is a very remarkable ruin. It is in the form of a vast oval or ellipse, and contains tiers of stone seats one above the other, rising around it to a considerable height. In the central area, conflicts between gladiators, and combats between condemned criminals and wild beasts, formerly took place ; and here many persecuted disciples of the Lord Jesus Christ were torn in pieces by lions and other savage animals that were let looseupon them. The caverns, where prisoners were confined, and some dens, in which the wild beasts were shut up, are still in existence. This Amphitheatre is 400 feet long, 303 wide, and 64 high, and was large enough to seat 25,000 people. When all its antecedents are remembered, a fearful interest attaches to the place. During our short stay at Nismes, Mr. Millier held other meetings, which were conducted at the Chapelle W esleyenne, the Eglise Libre, and at the house of a Christian gentleman residing in the town. Before our departure, we visited some rocks and stone quarries,
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96 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS about two miles distant, where, during a persecution of the Protestants in the reign of Louis XIV., the little Church of God at Nismes used to assemble for religious worship, because its members were not permitted to hold meetings in the town. On Dec. 7th we left Nismes for Montpellier, where Mr. Miiller preached three times at the Eglise Reformee Independente, attended a prayer meeting, where he gave an address, and held a conversational meeting at the house of a Christian lady. In this town, just in front of a our Hotel, was a piece of ground, now large public garden, where, about the year 1720, pastors were hanged, simply because they were Protestants. Other servants of Christ, after their arms and legs had been· broken with a bar of iron, were left to suffer excruciating pain, until a final blow on the chest, given as a " coup de grace," terminated their agonies. " We have been more perse- cuted" (said a gentleman who related these particulars, a descendant of the Huguenots)" than any other race of human beings under Heaven." How faint a conception have Christians of the present day, who live in the comfortable, easy circumstances to which most of us are accustomed, of the tribulation endured by disciples of the Lord Jesus in years long gone by, and even as recently as the last century ! The Christians of Mon~pellierwere able to relate numberless instances of the most infamous and wanton cruelty, practised upon the Huguenots, before, during, and after the reign of Louis XIV ..
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 97 • On Dec. 12th we rose at 5, left Montpellier by rail at 7 o'clock, and went through Cette to Narbonne, from which place, after changing trains, we proceeded on our journey; and at 2 o'clock reached Perpignan, the chief town of the Pyrenees Orientales, at no great distance from the Spanish frontier. The climate of Perpignan is generally mild, and in summer is very hot ; but just then wintry winds were sweeping over the SD(!W-COvered heights of the Pyrenees, which made the atmosphere unusually cold. This town is overlooked by a strong Citadel, and contains several houses built in the Spanish style. Mont Canigou, 9,140 feet high, is in the distance. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, we lea Perpignan, and our journey was continued. For many miles long ranges of the Pyrenees were on our right ; and, on the left, the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean were occasionally so close, that a stone might have been thrown into them from the railway carriage; and after travelling through the mountains, by means of numerous tunnels, for the first time we found ourselves in Spain. At Portbou, on the frontier, the usual Custom House examination took place, and afterwards, as we advanced into the country, the costumes of the people and the style of the buildings became more and more Spanish in appearance. Here, as in the South of France, there were vines and olive trees innumerable, and aloes, either singly or in hedges, were growing wild in the fields or by the roadside. As the train stopped at nearly every station, our progress was but slow; but at half-past 8 we arrived at Barcelona., H
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98 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS where two brethren were kindly waiting to receive, and to conduct us to the Fonda Las Cuatro N ationes. There we took possession of two small front rooms at the top of the house, with a south aspect and stone floors. The sitting-room contained an open fire-place, in which we occasionally had small fires, made of the dried roots of olive trees ; but the weather being generally mild and genial, they were not often needed. The street below our rooms, one of the leading thoroughfares of Barcelona, was crowded by day and by night. The following morning a party of English friends, labouring in Spain, called and welcomed us to the country most affectionately. On Sunday morning, Dec. 15th, we !'ttended a meeting for the breaking of bread, held at a school-room in Calle San Gabriel, Gracia, wh~e, at the commencement of the service, a poor blind brother prayed, some portions of Scripture were read by one of the brethren, and afterwards Mr. Miiller spoke for half an hour, with translation into Spanish by Mr. Payne. The breaking of bread followed, a hymn was sung, and the meeting was closed with prayer. We then shook hands with our Spanish brethren and sisters, and, amongst them, with the blind man just referred to, who, pointing upwards with his finger, said in Spanish, "We shall all speak one language there." Whilst talk- ing his face was lighted up with smiles, and he made us understand that he rejoiced greatly at our visit. He was v,ery poorly clothed, but a friend remarked, " He is rich in faith, and has been a noble witneBBfor Christ by
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OF GEORGE HULLER. 99 reading the Scriptures aloud, in raised type, in the streets and public walks of Barcelona." On the evening of that day Mr. Millier preached, with Spanish interpretation, at another large schoolroom in the city. On the following Tuesday aftemoon, at the house of a Wesleyan minister, he held a meeting for English Christian Workers in Spain, and addressed the party there assembled, with reference to their labours, for upwards of an hour. Conversation respecting the Lord's work in that dark Popish land was freely entered into afterwards, and the meeting was of so profitable a character, that, though it had lasted two hours and a half, no one was willing to leave, until a promise had been given that another should be held the following afternoon. The next day, accord- ingly, all met again at the same time and place, and continued for two hours and a half together. On Thurs- day morning, Dec. 19th, we accompanied Mr. Payne to visit four of the Spanish Day Schools, which are entirely supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution. They ~ in Barcelonetta, or little Barcelona, a poor part of the city, where, on the first floor of one of the hohses; we found two schools, one of big, and the other of little boys, assembled. One master, a converted Spaniard 1 was present ; but the other, in consequence of indisposition, was unable to attend that day. The boys were all quiet and orderly in their behaviour ; and, after the younger ones from the other schoolroom had come in, Mr. Miiller, with the help of Mr. Payne as a translator began speaking to them as follows :-" My dear children, • B-2 ~ ; : ...... ;: .. ;~..~~ ........ "'.1"'.. .. ., .,
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100 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS I love you all very much, and pray for you every day. I long from my inmost soul to meet every one of you in Heaven; but, in order that you may go to that happy place, as poor, lost, guilty sinners you must put your ~tin the blessed Lord Jesus Christ, who was punished in our room and stead ; for His blood al<mecan cleanse us from our sins." After preaching the gospel further to them, he related a few particulars about the Orphan boys on Ashley Down 1°and mentioned that someof them, about the same age ~ those he was addressing, were true dis- ciples of the Lord Jesus Christ, who, at an early age, had been led to trust in Him wholly as their Saviour. It was most interesting to look upon these poor Spanish children, gathered out from the mass of popery and infi- delity around, and to know that they were brought habi- tually under Christian influence and teaching. There were about 150 of them, and their parents were all either Papists or Infidels. Two schools for girls, under the same roof, downstairs, were close at hand. The ro~m for the elder girls was large, but it was below the level of the street, and a short flight of five steps led down to it. When the children were seated, Mr. Miill~r spoke to them from a low platform; afterwards they sang a hymn, and then a pretty little girl, about six years old, with black hair and very bright dark eyes, was mounted on a form, when she repeated the 128th Psalm in Spanish with great ease, and apparently without missing a word. Another followed with the 24th Psalm, and then an older girl, of about 13, repeated a long Spanish poem, referring to the love of ~ ~ ~~ LL ~ L '- L L L : ._ • L ~ : ._ ,:• L L
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.----- OF GEORGE MULLER. 101 Christ, His death, etc., in a firm clear voice, without the slightest hesitation or inaccuracy. She could have gone on with a great deal more ; and the other children, too, were ready with portions of Scripture and with. hymns ; but our time did not allow us to hear any further recita- tion. Close to the large room was a smaller one, devoted to a school for Infant Girls ; an interesting company of little children, who understood the Catalan dialect only. Mr. Payne's Spanish had therefore to be translated into Catalan by the governess, a second interpretation, and in this way they were told that the kind gentleman from England, who was speaking, loved them, eared for them, and was glad to see their bright, merry, little faces. We gave them a text also, " The blood of Jesus Christ His Son cleanseth us from all sin," to carry home to their parents. Thus ended our visit to these schools, a work so blessed and important, that we hope, by prayer, long to hold up the hands of those who are engaged in it. In the afternoon, at the house of the Wesleyan minister, Mr. Miiller held a third meeting for Christian Workers, and on the evening of that day preached at the Wesleyan Church. The next morning, at 10 o'clock, we visited two more of the schools, supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and went first to the boys who were on the ground floor. . They first of all sang a hymn ; and, after Mr. Miiller had addressed them, answered several questions asked by the master, and repeated portions of Scripture with great ease and readiness. The girls' school upstairs was , next visited,
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102 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS where we inspected the children's writing, and their needlework. They excel in penmanship ; and articles of needlework, beautifully made by them, were on sale for their own benefit. This room contained also a small but interesting school of Infant Girls. In the evening my husband preached again at the Wesleyan Church, and, on Dec. 21st, we inspected the San Gabriel schools, where two sheets of texts in ornamental writing, beauti- fully executed, one from the boys and the other from the girls, were presented to us. We visited a small school of Infant Girls also conducted at the same place. This visit closed our inspection of the ten Barcelona day-schools, supported entirely by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution, whieh were all in a most satisfactory condition. In the afternoon we walked up Mont J uich, which overlooks the Mediterranean and the whole of Barcelona and the neighbourhood. This city is situated in a beau- tiful and highly-cultivated country, and is the capital of Catalonia. I~ is a place of great trade, carrying on various manufactures, and has some fine squares and pro- menades; but the streets, generally speaking, are narrow, with very high houses that exclude the ~ and sunshine. On Sunday morning, Dec. 22nd, Mr. Miiller gave an address at a meeting for the breaking of bread, held in the upper schoolroom, in Calle Fernandina; and in the evening preached in German at a-Chapel belonging to Mr. A. Luis Empaytaz, who translated for him. On the evening of the 23rd he preached at the English Epis-
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OP GBORGEMULLER. 103 eopal Church, but the congregation was very small ; for, in the whole of Barcelona, there were not more than about 120 Englishpersons altogether. On the afternoon of the 24th he attended a meeting for prayer and exhor- tation at the house of the Wesleyan minister, and gave an address again to Christian Workers ; preached in the evening at the Fernandina schoolroom, and, on the morning of Christmas Day, held a meeting at the Chapel belonging to Mr. Empaytaz, where he preached in Ger- man, without translation. On the afternoon of that day, at a tea-meeting at the San Gabriel schoolroom, Gracia, he gave an address ; and afterwards a letter in Spanish, from many of the pupils then present (who formerly attended the schools of the Scriptural Know- ledge Institution), was read, thanking him for his visit to Barcelona, and expressing their grateful acknowledg- ments for the education they had received. Some of these young men were studying at the University of Barcelona, and others were engaged elsewhere in various useful occupations. A translation of this letter into German was then handed in, and soon after 7 the meet- ing was brought to a close. On Dec. 28th we rose at 5, and at half-past 6 were accompanied to the station by several Christian friends, who kindly came to take leave of us before our depar- ture for Saragossa. At 7 o'clock we left Barcelona, and travelled with two Spaniards, to each of whom we gave a Spanish Gospel and some tracts, which were thank- fully accepted, and read with great attention. At 2
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104 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS o'clock the passengers alighted to dine at Lerida; but we walked up and down the platform.and gave away some tracts, when in a moment a crowd of third-class passengers sunounded us, ·who all pressed forward, eagerly desiring to obtain tracts or Gospels for them- selves. The few we had were distributed iinmediately; but so anxious were the applicants to obtain one ear,k, that they followed us to the railway carriage and lingered a.bout the door. In a few minutes other tracts were found and handed out, but, fearing to attract atten- tion and that our actions might be watched by Romish priests, we held up our empty hands to show that we had nothing more to give. The poor people were loth, however, to depart, and· waited until the last moment, thrusting their hands in at the window, with the hope of receiving either a Gospel or a tract. At half-past 2 we left Lerida, and after a journey of 228 miles, at a quarter to 9 p.m., reached Saragossa, where, at the Fonda de las Cuatro N ationes, we found suitable accom- modation. The follo~g morning (Sun~y, Dec. 29th) a meeting was held at Mr. Gulich's Church, when Mr. Mii:llerpreached, with translation by the pastor ; and in the afternoon addresse(J the Sunday School children at the same place. At the beginning of the service they chanted the 23rd Psalm, and, at the close, sang a · hymn set to a lively tune, and sung in marked, quick time, -with great spirit and animation. In the evening Mr. Millier preached again at the same Church to a large, attentive audience.
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OF GEORGE HULLER. 105 On Dec. 30th we walked out with Mr. Gulich, who conducted us to one of the t1JJO Cathedrals in Saragossa -the only city in Spain which has two Cathedral Churches. The architecture is Moorish, and some sculp- ture on the walls represents the martyrdom of a few of the early Christians, and that of St. Lawrence in par-- tieular, who, in the 4th century, was roasted to death on a gridiron over a slow fire, by the command of one of the Pagan Roman emperors. Though considered a Catholic by the Papists, it is said that he was a true disciple of Christ. Some poor devotees were worship- ping at the shrines, to a few of whom we quietly gave Spanish gospel tracts ; and a tract was handed also to a gowned individual, a verger or sacristan, with a wand of office,as he slowly wandered up and down the aisles, who looked at us gloomily, but accepted it nevertheless. Our next visit was to the Cathedral of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, which contains an image of the Virgin and Child on a jasper pedestal, said to have come down direct from Heaven in the 1st century, and to have been brought by the Apostle Jamesto Saragossa I To this image the most extravagant miracles are attributed. Many persons were kissing the pillar and crossing themselves, whilst others, dispersed about the Cathedra~ were kneeling on the stone pavement before various images of saints. Whole regiments of soldiers, too, come in to knee~ bow, cross themselves, and perform their devotions before the different shrines. Oh ! how responsible are we, who pds- sess the pure gospel of the grace of God, to make it ·
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106 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS known to poor idolaters like these. In order to form a correct idea of the degrading superstitions, the debasing idolatry of Popery, there is nothing like witnessi.ng these things in a country such as Spain, where the Roman Catholic religion appears to be of ·a grosser type than it is in Protestant countries. Our last remaining tract was slipped into the hand of a worshipper, kneeling upon a stone step before an altar. Besides these two Cathedrals, Saragossa contains many curious old Moorish houses and ancient monuments, including the Aljaferia, now a fort, but formerly a Moorish palace. As we walked through the streets, almost everyone turned round to have a good look at us as strangers ; and occasionally some children followed close behind, desiring to have a thorough gaze at the walking curiosities from a foreign country. In the evening Mr. Miiller preached again at Mr. Gulich's Church, and on the following morning (Dec. 31st) we rose at half-past 4, in order to start early for Madrid. The journey was extremely tedious, and, after stopping at every one of the 35 stations, in the evening, at 10 o'clock, we reached our destination, where Mr. Fenn, an English missionary, was kindly waiting to receive and to conduct us to the Fonda Peninsular, near the Puerta del Sol, about two miles from the station. The next morning (Jan. 1st, 1879), at 10 o'clock, a pro- cession passed along the street consisting of boys carry- ing lighted tapers ; soldiers, priests, and men bore a large figure of the Virgin, robed in crimson satin, with a
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 107 crown upon her head; whilst a small image of the Saviour was carried immediately behindit. The men in this pro- cession were bareheaded, and all the passers-by took off their hats. In the evening, at a coffeemeeting at Cham- beri, Mr. Miiller addressed a gathering of Spanish Christians, with translation by Mr. Fenn. On the after- noon of Jan. 2nd we attended a meeting of Christian Workers, to whom my husband gave a short address, and in the evening he preached at Chamberi. At a gospel service held the following Sunday morning at Chamberi, he preached again ; spoke in German in the afternoon at Pastor Fliedner's Church, and in the evening preached at Chamberi a second time, with translation into Spanish. The next day a meeting of school teachers was held at Mr. Fenn's house, where Mr. Miiller gave them a short address, and in the evening he attended the first of a series of prayer meetings at Mr. Fliedner's Church.' On Jan. 7th we inspected the five schools, three at Chamberi and two in another part of Madrid, which are supported by the funds of the Scriptural Knowledge In- stitution, and are under the care and superintendence of Mr. and Mrs. Fenn, where it was gratifying to find the dear children, contrary to custom, as their Christmas holidays were scarcely over, assembled in considerable numbers to see the strangers from England, whose pre- sence seemed to afford th.em great delight. Aft.er visit- ing the three Chamberi schools, which are admirably. conducted, all the children formed one assembly in the
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108 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Chapel, where Mr. Miiller addressed them for about twenty minutes, with translation by Mr. Fenn. He spoke also to the children of the two other schools. Sheets of paper, containing texts and short addresses, beautifully written, were presented to us ~y the pupils at Chamberi. On our way back to the Hotel, we passed an open piece of ground, where, several years ago, large quantities of human bones were disinterred, the remains of victims of the Inquisition, a.bout 130 Protestants having been burned alive there in former times, as an " auto da fe," by their enemies, the Papists. Here the hand of a young girl was found, with a large nail driven through it; tresses of long hair were discovered, and other revolting evidences were brought to light of the cruelties that had been perpetrated. We visited the Plaza Mayor also, a large Square in Old Madrid, where, cen- turies ago, Jews, Protestants and criminals, all dressed in hideous garments, and high, pointed caps, were brought before their judges; by whom, after sentence of death had been pronounced, they were sent to the spot above mentioned, near Chamberi, and there burned alive. On the evening of Jan. 9th, at a united prayer meet- ing of the Evangelical Alliance, Mr. Miiller gave an address on prayer, and spoke at Chamberi also, at a prayer meeting, the next evening. On the ·11th we visited Mr. and Mrs. Fenn's interesting Orphan Institu- tion; on the morning of Sunday, the 12th, my husband preached at Chamberi, and in the evening addressed a
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 109 large English congregation at a Hall connected with the residence of the Presbyterian minister. This Hall, and the premises connected with it, at one time formed a portion of the Spanish Inquisition. On the afternoon of Monday, Jan. 13th, at a quarter before 5, we left Madrid for Bayonne, and at 7 reached the Escurial~both paJace and monastery in one; which, on account of the lateness of the hour, could be seen very indistinctly. We passed Avila also, a town en- closed by ancient granite walls 800 years old, which bas 86 tQwers and gates, and is considered the finest speci- men of a walled town in Europe. Valladolid was reached at midnight; and soon after 6, on the 14th, as the day began to dawn, we arrived at Vitoria, where the moun- tainous, picturesque character of the country formed an entire contrast to the plain on which Madrid is situated. For many miles we travelled through the Passes at the western extremity of the Pyrenees, and went through tunnel after tunnel, until, at 10.15, the train drew up at San Sebastian, a town on the Bay of Biscay, besieged by the British army und.er Wellington in 1813; where numbers of English soldiers, who fell during the war in the Peninsula, lie interred. The last stations in Spain were Irun and Hendaya; and, after travelling close to the Bay of Biscay, where great rolling waves were dashing in upon the shore, at half-past 1 p.m. we reached Bayonne. On the afternoon of Jan. 15th, at a little meeting held at the house of Monsieur Nogaret, pastor of the Reformed
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110 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Church, Mr. Mii.ller spoke in French for three quarters of an hour ; and afterwards we walked to the fortifi- cations, from which the district between Bayonne and the frontier could be seen, a locality memorable as the scene of the struggle between Wellington and Soult in the 1,ear 1813. · On the 17th we went to Biarritz, a beautiful watering place on the Bay of Biscay, six miles from Bayonne, where the rocky coast lies open to the full sweep of rollers from the ::Qay. There, at 2 o'clock, in a large salon of the Hotel de France, Mr. Miiller held a meeting for the English, of whom he addressed a con- siderable number, for an hour. At half-past 3 we re- turned to Bayonne, and at 5.20 left by rail for Pau in the Pyrenees. There, on the following Sunday (Jan. 19th), my husband preached morning and afternoon in English at the Presbyterian Church, to large congre- gations, with much help from the Lord. On the evening of the 20th he conducted a French service at Le Temple, and preached the following morning in German at the Presbyterian Church. He held English meetings also at this Church every morning (except Saturday) through- out the week. Pau is famous for its mild, genial climate, its beautiful scenery, and for being much resorted to by visitors, especially the English, of whom, during our stay, there were about 2,000 in the place. The Chateau of Henry 4th is joined by three bridges to the town. On the morning of Sunday, Jan. 26th, Mr Miiller preached a farewell sermon at the Presbyterian Church, and held a French
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- OF GEORGEJroLLBR. meeting in the evening for the working classes, at a large Hall On the 27th we left Pau for Bordeaux, about 150 miles distant, where, at the Chapelle Evangelique, he held two French meetings. An address was also_given by him at a Hall belonging to the " Union Chretienne de jeunes gens," andon the 29th we went to the Asylums of La Force, of which the late Mr. John Bost was the Founder and Director. After a journey of 70 miles we reached our destination, and in the afternoon accom- panied Mr. Bost, in a small omnibus belonging to the Institution, to visit his Asylums, which are situated at some little distance from each other. They are eight in number : " La Famille Evangelique is for Orphan girls of all ages; Bethesda is an asylum for girls infirm or incurable, blind or threatened with blindness, idiot, imbecile or of feeble intellect ; Ebenezer is an asylum for epileptic girls ; Siloam is for boys infirm or incur- able, blind or threatened with blindness ; Bethel is an asylum for epileptic boys; Le Repos is for invalid governesses, infirm school mistresses, widows or spinsters who are ill or without resources ; La Retraite is for servants, widows or spinsters, who , are ill, infirm, or without means of support, and afflicted with incurable diseases ; and La Misericorde is for idiot girls who have lost all intelligence ; also for epileptics, who are idiot and infirm." After we had inspected these deeply inter- esting, and most Christ-like Institutions, a very large gathering of the inmates, who were well enough to
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112 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS attend, assembled at "La Famille," where Mr. Miiller addressed them for three quarters of an hour; for though the community is so afflicted as a wlwl.e,a meeting was hailed by them with delight, many of the patients being intelligent, and some of the epileptics even persons of sound mind, when not suft'eriIJgfrom their dreadful fits. The next day, at half-past 2, another service was held at "Le Temple," the Church of the Institution, where upwards of 400 individuals assembled ; and as Mr. Bost would not hear of a translation, because, said he, " Mon- sieur Miiller est admirable," my husband addressed this large company for an hour and a quarter· in French. Afterwards we drank tea at "La Familia," and returned by railway in the evening to Bordeaux. On the after- noon of Jan. 31st, at the Chapelle Evangelique, Mr. Millier held his fourth and last meeting in the city, and at 6.50 ·we left by the night express for Cannes. Toulouse was reached in the middle of the night ; the next morning we stopped at Marseille, and proceeding along the coast of the Mediterranean, after a journey of 480 miles, at a quarter to 1 p.m. we arrived at Cannes. There, on Sunday, Feb. 2nd, Mr. Miiller preached in the morning at the German, and in the afternoon at the Presbyterian, Church ; gave an address on the 4th at the Eglise Evangelique, held another meeting at the German Church the following afternoon, and continued his labours every day until the 12th, when he spoke in French at the Eglise de la ~emption in the evening. On the 13th he preached at the Presbyterian Church,
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 113 and on the 14th gave a farewell address in English at the Eglise de la RM.emption. During our stay at Cannes, we visited "Les Orangers," large plantations of orange and lemon trees, laden with ripe fruit, and greatly enjoyed the climate of that de- lightful place. On Feb. 15th we l~ft Cannes, and, just before our departure, received a little parcel, containing an ivory paper-cutter, with a slip of paper on which these words were written-" For dear Mr. Miiller from one of his former Orphans, and wishing both Mr. and Mrs. Miiller God-speed." At half-past 2 we arrived at Nice, where, on the following aftemoon(Sunday)my husband preached in English at the Presbyterian Chl,ll'ch,held a meeting in the evening at the Vaudois Church, and continued to con- duct services in English, French, or German during the remainder of our stay, including a meeting at the Presby- terian Church on the 26th, when he preached in English, to a large congregation, on the second coming of Christ. Whilst we were at Nice, the whole town was in a state of excitement from the Carnival, for which tli.at place is noted. During our walks, to and from the meetings, we met troops of individuals in masks, dressed in extraordinary costumes, who danced al~ng the streets, and made merry with anybody and everybodywho happened to oomeacross them; but by promptly branching off'into back streets, we, happily, escaped their notice altogether. The popular idea seems to be that, just before the austerities of Lent commence, a season of extravagance, folly, and amusement. I
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l 14, MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS is particularly appropriate. That children and young people should be tempted to indulge in such diversions, is not perhaps surprising ; but how persons of mature age can take delight in making such fools of themselves, is really most astonishing. We heard a Christian gentleman · from London lamenting greatly that the English too- Protestants---who might be expected tosetagood example to their Catholic neighbours, were amongst the foremost in these amusements. On Feb. 21st we visited Monaco, one of the most , beautiful spots along the whole coastofthe Mediterranean. It is notorious, however, for its gambling saloons, which lead many who frequent them both to temporal and eternal ruin. Suicide was said to be a common thing also amongst the votaries of those gaming tables. On March let we left for Mentone, 24 miles from Nice, where Mr. Muller preached at the Hall of the Free Church of Scotland, at the Eglise FranQB,iseand at the German Church, to large congregations ; and continued to hold meetings daily as long as we remained. As on Sunday mornings the little Hall of the Free Church was crowded, its doors and windows were left open ; several persons therefore sat outside in the balcony, on chairs, amongst whom was Mr. Spurgeon, who attended three meetings; and, whilst at Mentone, we had the pleasure -0f seeing and driving out with him occasionally. On the morning of March 11th, at the Free Church Hall, my husband g~ve a farewell address. At 3.50 that afternoon we left Mentone for Ventimiglia on the Italian
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 115 frontier, and proceeded afterwards to Bella Vista, Bordi- ghera, the residence of Mrs. Boyce, two miles distant from the station. In the evening Mr. Miiller preached at a small church in Bordighera, built by Mrs. Boyce, with translation into Italian by Signor Malan, a young Italian pastor. The congregation consisted of the chil- dren belonging to Mrs. Boyce's schools, their teachers, and some country people from the neighbourhood, most of whom were Roman Catholics. This little church at Bordighera was then the only centre of real Christian influence throughout a very extensive district, as there were no other Italian Protestantservices between Bor- dighera and G,enoa. On the following morning we visited Mrs. Boyce's schools,and at half-past two Mr. Miiller held a drawing-roommeeting for English residents and visitors, at Viletta Aurelia, where, for upwards of an hour, he addressed a large company of gentlemen and ladies. On March 13th we accompanied Mrs. Boyce in a carriage to San Remo, on the coast of the Mediterranean, nine miles distant; and there, in the large drawing-rooms of Villa Theresa, at 2 o'clock, he held a meeting for the English also, which was crowded with gentlemen and ladies. He spoke with great power; the hearers were all atten- tion, and one lady said afterwards-" I was never so much interested in my whole life." This meeting was an important one, as many present were always under ritual- istic teaching, and never heard the pure gospel preached. In the evening, at half-past 6, we left San Remo by express, reached Genoa at 11, and the next day, at I-2
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116 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS 1.10 p.m., set oft'for Pisa, when our route through Spezzia and near Carrara extended along the coast of the Medi- terranean, through scenery of the most beautiful descrip- tion. At 7 o'clock we arrived at Pisa, and the next morning, before our departure for Florence, saw the exterior of its celebrated leaning tower, 180 feet high, and 13 feet out of the perpendicular, built in the year 1174, by Bonanno of Pisa. As our object was to reach Florence, we did not remain either at Genoa or at Pisa, but 'simply passed through those cities on the way. At noon, therefore, on March 15th, our journey was continued ; and at 3 in the after- noon we ~rrived at Florence, where, at the·station, we were received by some Christian friends, with-"A warm wel- come in the Master's name." ·The next day (Sunday) we attended a meeting for the breaking of bread at a Hall in Via San Spirito, which, with an ante-room adjoining it, was crowded. There,Mr. Miiller spoke for nearly an hour, with Italian translation by Signor Rossetti ; and, in the evening, preached at the Vaudois Church. During olll' stay at Florence, he held a number of other meetings also, including services at two Italian Churches, one in Via Palazuolo, and the. other in Via dei Benci, a meeting at the Chapel of Dr. Comandi's Asilo in Via Aretina, an English service at the Presl>yterian Church, a meeting at the French Swiss Church, with Italian translation, a service at. the Methodist Episcopal Church, in English with Italian translation, and a drawing-room meeting at Dr. Young's, where he addressed the students of the
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OF GEORGEHULLER. 117 Theological Seminary, their professors, several pastors, and a number of gentlemen and ladies. He held a second drawing-room meeting also at Dr. Young's, and had a Bible reading at the house of the Presbyterian mini~ter. On most of these oooasions there were large, attentive audiences. A few days after the service at the Italian Church in Via dei Benei, a gentleman said- " God be praised for the glorious meeting you had. I was there, · and enjoyed very much your powerful testimony." During our stay at Florence, we looked with interest at the exterior of the• prison where Fran- cesco and Rosa Madai were confined, and had a good view of the city and neighbourhood from an elevated spot ealled the ~za Michael Angelo. On the morning of Wednesday, the 26th of March, we lea Florence for Rome, and arrived there in the afternoon at a quarter -before 5. The next morning, at a prayer meeting in Via San Nicola da Tolentino, Mr. Miiller gave his first address in Rome. On the 28th he held a meeting for Christian Workers in Via delle Coppelle ; spoke at theBrethren's Hall, at a.meeting for the breaking of bread, on Sunday morning, the 30th, and preached in the evening at Mr. Wall's Chapel On the 31st he conducted a service at the Oratorio Evangelico, and subsequently preached at various places of worship, including the Tempio Evangelico, the Presbyterian Ch~rch, the W aldensia.n Church, the Sala Oristiana, the American Baptist Chapel, the Italian Free Church, a Hall in Via della Scrofa connected with the Tempio
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118 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Evangelico, where a service for Italian soldiers was held, the Italian Free Church and the Wesleyan Chapel. During our stay in Rome, we visited the Catacombs. There are about 60 in all, which extend in various directions, outside the walls of the city. They consist of subterranean excavations, which served as places of refuge and worship to the earliest followers of the Christian faith, during the persecutions they had to suffer under the predecessors of Constantine, and where, after death, many thousands were interred, from the earliest period of Christianity to the sixth century of the present era. We visited St. Peter's, also the Vatican, drove along the Via Appia, by which the Apostle Paul entered Rome, and saw the Arch of Titus. The Coliseum, which originally accommodated 87,000 spectators, is likewise a remarkable ruin. " The caverns in which the wild beasts were confined are still in existence, and the gladia- torial spectacles, of which fer nearly 400 years it was the scene, are matters of history. In the reign of Trajan, Ignatius was brought there from Antioch, on purpose to be torn in pieces by wild beasts ; and great numbers of martyrs perished on its arena." The Basilica of the Lateran-which we visited also-was long regarded as the first of Christian Churches, and styled byan inscription at the entrance, "The Mother and Head of all the Churches in the world I" · One of the sights of Rome, too, is the Scala Santa, where eleven penitents were ascending a long flight of 28 marble steps upon their
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 119 knees. This Scala Santa is the celebrated staircase up which Luther· was once working his weary way, when these words, " The just shall live by faith," seemed to reach him like a voice from heaven. Before our departure from Rome, we visited the Basi- lica of San Paolo likewise, a vast marble Cathedral, erected on the spot where, according to tradition, the Apostles Peter and Paul embraced each other before they were led away to execution-the former to be crucified with his head downwards, the latter to be beheaded. The Church and Monastery of the three Fountains, the Baths of Caracalla, the Columbaria, re~arkable ancient burying places for the remains of the dead, after they had been burned to ashes, the Pantheon, the Column of 'I,'~jan, the Arch of Septimus Severus, some curious old aqueducts, the ruins of the palaces of the Cresars, and other famous antiquities, we saw also ; but the sights of Rome are so numerous and celebrated, that no minute description of them can be attempted, especially as our visits to those just mentioned were brief, compared with the time usually devqted to them by strangers. The ruins of Rome, once proudly called the "Eternal City," plainly show " that the fashion of this world passeth away, and the lust thereof." "He, and he only, who doeth the will of God abideth for ever." What a blessed thing it is to have "'1W abiding city" here, but to look for " the City which hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God."
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120 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On April 9th we went to Naples, where, the following morning, at the Chiese Metodista, Mr. Miiller addressed , about 100 Christian Workers, including pastors, evange- lists, colporteurs, Sunday School teachers, leaders of Mothers' Meetings, &c.; and· in the evening (by particu- • Jar request) he held a service in the Bethel Mission Ship, for the English seamen of Naples, amongst whom were a few sailors from Bristol, who had expressed a desire that he should address them. On the following evening he preached at the Presbyterian Church, in English, to a large congregation; and, during our stay at Naples, held a number of other meetings, including services at the Chiesa Evangelica, the Italian Free Church, the Waldensian Church, where he preached in French, with Italian trans- lation, the Obie~ Cristiana Apostolica, the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, the Methodist Episcopal Church and the German Church. He addressed a large class of young ladies also at a school, both in English and in Germ.an. During our stay at Naples, we visited the ruins of Pompeii, 14 miles distant, a city which was partially overthrown by an earthquake, on Feb. 5th, A.D. 63, and destroyed by an eruption of Vesuvius, Aug. 24th, A.D. 79. Pompeii was overwhelmed by showers of pumice stones and ashes, no current' of lava having ever reached it; but, through the excavations that have been made, a large portion of the city has been disinterred. Many of the houses still standing were probably built before, or during, our Saviour's life on earth. We saw the ruins of Herculaneum also, a city destroyed by the eruption
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OF GEORGE MULLER. , 121 of Vesuvius in A.D. 79, when it was destroyed by tor- rents of volcanic mud. .The Solfatara, a semi-extinct volcano near Naples, is a remarkable locality; and the spot where the Apostle Paul, after touching at Rhegium, first landed in Italy was particularly pointed out. We likewise saw the road along which he travelled on his way to Rome, of which the ancient pavement, composed of massive blocks of lava, in some places is still perfect. On April 21st, accompanied by Mr. Gray, the pastor of the Presbyterian Church, who kindly acted as our guide, after driving through Naples, Portici and Resina, we slowly ascended the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, which is about 30 miles in circumference at its base; and, whilst going up the steep incline, marked a gradual decrease of vegetation, until great lava fields, consisting of immense black boulders, and enormous quantities of lava, cooled and hardened into the most fantastic shapes, were reached. At 2 o'clock we alighted at the Hermitage, and afterwards walked towards the eruptive cone, but made no attempt to reach its top. The distant view, however, was very beautiful, and the surroundings on every side were gran~ A Museum at the Observatory contains a valuable col- lection of minerals from ¥"esuvius, some volcanic bombs, and a few curious scientific instruments, amongst which is an "eisograph" for measuring the duration and violence of earthquakes, so constructed that the precise time of their duration can b~ measured with the greatest accuracy. Before leaving the Museum, we heard that a gentleman,
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•·122 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS whilst in the act of mounting the cone of Vesuvius, had just died suddenly of apoplexy, brought on by over- exertion during its ascent ; and a short time afterwards several men passed us, carrying his corpse down the mountain in a chair. He appeared to be about 45 yea.rs of age, and was sitting upright, with his head hanging over the left shoulder. His countenance was deadly pale, and life was quite extinct. The sight was both solemn and affecting. On the evening of April 24th my husband gave a farewell address in English at the Presbyterian Church, · when, at the close of the service, Mr. Gray, on his own behalf and that of the congregation, publicly expressed his gratitude for "Mr. Miiller's valued ministry" amongst them. Our visit to Naples was a very happy one, and the meetings were of a most important character. The next morning we rose at 4, to leave by an early train for Rome, but our stay there was a short one only. That evening Mr. Miiller preached at Mr. Wall's Chapel to a large congregation, and the following evening held a meeting at the American Episcopal Church. On Sunday morning, April 27th, he gave an address at the Brethren's Hall, and preached at the Sala Cristiana ~ the evening from Heb. xi. 24, 25, 26-a solemn farewell sermon. On the 28th we went again to Florence, and when he had held six meetings in that city, including a service at Dr. Comandi's Institution, where, on May 2nd, he ad- dressed the children of the various evangelical schools in Florence, on the morning of the 5th we left, and, after
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 123 crossing the Apennines, reached Bologna in the afternoon. There he preached in French, with Italian translation, that evening and the next, at Monsieur Roland's Church to crowded congregations. On May 8th we went on to Venice ; passed through Ferrara, Padua, and other places on the way ; and, after travelling by rail through the watery district by which the city is surrounded, reached our destination in the even- ing, where, instead of an omnibus, a gondola was wait- ing for passengers, in which we were rowed along several canals to the Hotel Danieli. That evening, at 8 o'clock, Mr. Millierpreached at the Vaudois Church, and at the Methodist Episcopal Church the next evening. He held two other meetings also, whilst we remained at Venice, one of which was in English. at the American Consul's house ; but his labours in this city were shortened con- siderably, in consequence of the inability of Monsieur Meile, the Italian pastor, who was suffering seriously from a throat affection, to translate. , Venice, from being full of canals and nearly surrounded by the sea, is one of the most extraordinary cities in the world. During our brief sojourn there, two or three little voyages in gondolas enabled us to form some idea of the place. " This city is built upon piles, on three large and 114 small islands, formed by 150 narrow canals, and crossed by 380 short bridges. The islands and city upon them are in a shallow lagune of the Adriatic. Palaces and houses, oncemagnificent, line the Banks of the Grand Canal, which is two miles and a half in length, and the
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124 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOUBB ' Bridge of Sighs ' connects the Palace of the Doges with the prisons that belong to it; but the whole city bears marks of a grandeur that baa passed away, and its fame and glory are of a bygone character. Venice is divided into two unequal parts by the Grand Canal, which is crossed near the middle of its course by the Ponte di Rialto, a marble bridge of one single, spacious arch. The cit_ycontains upwards of 4,000 gondolas. From the top of the Campanile, a square tower 316 feet in height, an extensive prospect is obtained, embracing the Alps, the Adriatic, the Istrian Mountains, and Monti Euganei, near Padua." On May 15th, early in the morning, we left for Breschia; and, after passing through Padua., Vicenza and Verona, reached P~chiera, close to Lago Garda, one of the beau- tiful lakes in northern Italy. After our arrival at Breschia, Mr. Miiller preached that evening at the Vaudois Church, from John i. 29. Amongst his hearers were several Roman Catholics, and some officers and soldiers belong- ing to a regiment in the city. He held another meeting, also, the following evening at the same church, and after the service we distributed little Italian books amongst the people, which were gratefully ,accepted. On May 17th we left for Milan, and from there pro- ceeded by an evening train to Como, where, at the Vaudois Church, he preached four times, with translation into Italian. Here the congregation consisted of poor country people ; and great was the interest with which they listened to a preacher who told them that he was a
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 125 poor man himsel£ Everything he needs (they were told) is obtained bJ: prayer and faith, and his wants are made known to his Heavenly Father only. On May 20th we spent a few hours at Bellagio, 16 miles distant, one of the most beautiful places on the Lake of Como; and ~e next day returned to Milan, where Mr. Miiller preached at the Wesleyan Church, with Italian interpretation, in the evening. During our stay, he held meetings also at the Italian Free Church, the Brethren's Room, the Vaudois Church, at an Italian Church in Place Charles Beccaria, and at a Protestant Church in Rue Agnello. On the 28th(by invitation) he held a drawing-room meeting at the British Chaplain's house, and the next evening preached . in Germanat the Vaudois Church, not being able to ad- dress the Germans in their own place of worship, because th• pastor was a neologian. On our way to and from the meetings, we passed Milan Cathedral, built of white marble from the Simplon, and entered it repeatedly. Next to St. Peter's at Rome, and Seville Cathedral, it is the largest church in Europe. These splendid Cathedrals, however, are all popish, and the religious services carried on in them are full of the grossest idolatry and super- stition. On May 31st we left Milan for Turin; and, after Mr. Miiller had conducted three services in that city, on Tuesday, June 3rd, set oft' for an excursion through the Waldensian Valleys, which contain a Protestant popula- tion of about 26,000; whereas Turin has only between 800 and 900 Prolestantinhabitants. _The journey from
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126 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Turin to Pignerola was performed by rail ; but at the latter place we took an open carriage,,and drove to Villa Beebe, a village inhabited principally by Protestants. During the drive, we passed several mountain torrents, saw the distant Alps, and drove for miles close to the river Chison, which was rushing over its rocky bed with a loud noise, down a steep incline into the Valley. The whole of this district is extremely interesting, be- cause for hundreds of years it has been inhabi~d by the Waldenses, who, in the 16th and 17th centuries, on account of their faithfulness to Christ, were cruelly per- secuted by the Papists ; and, as their attachment to the reformed faith brought many sufl'etings upon them, they were compelled to flee from their beloved homes to any . hiding-place that afforded them a refuge. The two prin- cipal W aJdensian Valleys are St. Martin and Luzerne, which contain 15 parishes ; but the houses in them are scattered, and, being at a great distance from each other, the members of the little Churches are obliged to walk many miles in o~der to attend the meetings. These Waldensian Christians are generally very poor, and many of them live in houses roofed with rough, flat stones loosely put together, instead of slates or tiles. In the windows, too, of a few of their abodes, paper occupied the place of glass. At Pomaret some of the people were standing at their doors to gaze at us, because our visit was expected ; and, as we drove along, "Monsieur le pasteur Georges Miiller" had many respectful bows and salutations. At five o'clock we reached the house of the --
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 127 pastor at Villa Sache, and in the evening accompanied him to his Church, a very ancient Vaudois place of wor- ship; situated at a great height upon a mountain, many hundreds of feet above his residence. A steep, rugged, winding pathway, covered in places with loose stones, led up this mountain towards the Church; and, as some rivulets streamed over the ascent, it was difficult to avoid getting·ankle-deep in water. The silence and !30litudeof the whole region, too, were striking. At length, warm, tired and almost breathless, we reached the Church, a large old-fashioned building, which was crowded with a rustic congregation, who (the meeting having been an- nounced for 5 o'clock, though circumstances did not allow of our getting there till 7,) had been sitting there two hours, patiently waiting our arrival. The service, which was in French, was opened with singing and prayer, after which Mr. Miiller addressed the audience for an hour, throwing himself heart and soul into their circumstances. -(\.tthe close of the meeting we distributed little French and Italian books amongst the people ; shook hands with many of them ; and soon after 9 reached the pastor's cottage down below-a Swiss cMlet, with a projecting roof, and two wooden galleries outside. In this moun- tain home the domestic arrangements were of the simplest, most frugal character possible, many of the comforts and conveniences of life, often considered in- dispensable, being wanting ; but we were most kindly entertained, and greatly enjoyed our little visit. The next morning we took a drive to Perrier, two miles
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128 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS further up the Valley, and called upon the village pastor. Underneath his house were two " souterrains," or caverns; where, in the last century, some Vaudois Christians were imprisoned, and left to starve, by their bitter enemies the Papists. By the light of a candle we explored these subterranean cavities; but, as the ground was covered with water, it was necessary to step carefully on blocks of wood. Some snow-covered mountains were afterwards pointed out, where, during the last century, 80 Vaudois womenl with their infants, were obliged 1i<> pass the night, whilst escaping from their cruel foes ; but, when morning came, they were discovered in a semi- frozen state, and most of them perished eventually through the severity of the cold. In the afternoon we drove to La Perouse, where a night's lodging was proposed for us at the Hospital ; but we decided upon going to the "H6tel National," the only hotel fu the place, which proved, however, to be nothing but a little Italian public house, where the accommodation was most uncomfortable, and where no one understood a word of French. At 4 o'clock a meet- ing was held at the Vaudois Church, Pomaret, when Mr. Miiller preached in French to a large, attentive audience. On the morning of June 5th we visited St. Germain, seven miles from La Perouse, at which place he adch-essed a large congregation of poor people in French, at 10 o'clock, for three-quarters of an hour. At one we set off again in the little open carriage ; and, after a drive of eleven miles, reached La Tour, the largest
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 129 Vaudois settlement, and the principal Protestant station in the Valleys. In the evening, at St. Jean (three miles from La Tour), Mr. Millier preached at a schoolroom belonging to the Church, in French, where a large con- gregation, including several gentlemen and ladies, had assembled. He~, at the close of the service, the pastor prayed-" Que le diacours excellent de notre frere soit grave Bur DOB creurs; " and another gentleman afterwards remarked-" Monsieur Miiller nous a dit preciaement ce qu'il nous faut; le sermon etait admirable." On the afternoon of June 7th we visited the "Orphe- linAt des Vallees Vaudoises,'' a small Orphan Establish- ment for 50 girls, in a delightful situation, just outside La Tour. The Directrice conducted us through the various departments of the Institution, where cleanlineBB and order reigned supreme; for all the back, out-of-door premises, yards, courts, etc., were so beautifully neat and clean, as well as the school-rooms and the dormitories, that we asked whether this was because visitors were expected. The reply, however, was : "Les departments .sont tons lee jours comme vous lee voyez maintenant." The garden, too, was admirably kept. It contained an abundance. of vegetables and fruit trees ; vines were gracefully trained against a wooden paling surrounding the enclosure, and a few flowers were cultivated in beds. After visiting the different departments of the Institu- tion, the Directrice conducted us to a school-room, where all ~e girls were busily engaged with needlework. They rose as we entered, Mr. Miiller spoke to them for K
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130 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS a few minutes ; and, when they had sung a hymn, we took leave of the interesting party. On the evening of 'that day my husband preached at the Ecole de Saint Marguerite; on Sunday morning, June 8th, he held a French meeting at "Le Temple," and in the afternoon we went to an old Church at Chabas, built by the Vaudois Christians, after the persecutions, from which they suffered so long, had in a great measure terminated. Here, the builcµng was· crowded to the utmost, and Mr. Miiller's address in French, which occu- pied an hour, was listened to by the audience with the greatest interest. At the close of the service, Monsieur Pons, one of the pastors, expressed, in French, the best thanks of the Christians of that locality to Mr. George Muller for his timely and most acceptable visit to the Valleys, and their gratitude to him and t-0Mrs. Miiller for coming amongst them. Having finished our little tour of 125 miles in the Waldensian Valleys, on June 9th we returned viAPigne- rola to Turin. There, on the evening of that day, my husband held a meeting_at the Italian Baptist Church, and on the following evening, at half-past 8, preached a farewell sermon at the Tempio Valdese Evangelico. On Thursday, June 12th, at 9 a.m., we left Turin; crossed the Alps, viA.the Mont Cenis Tunnel, and, after a long, tedious journey, reached Dijon at' midnight. The next day our journey was continued; and at half-past 4: we arrived in Paris. There, on Sunday, June 15th, Mr. Miiller preached twice in French, namely, at the Chapelle
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 131 Ma.lesherbe,Rue Roquepine, in the afternoon, and at the Eglise des Billettes in the evening. On the 17th we went on to Calais and Dover; proceeded to London on the 18th, and in the evening, at ha.If-past 6, reached Ashley Down, Bristol, where, as usual, a warm welcome from the ·Orphans and numerous kind friends awaited us. This long Continental tour was abundantly marked by the goodness of the Lord throughout the whole of its dura- tion, and is always remembered by us both with feelings of ·the deepest gratitude. On June 24th we went to Lon-· don for the Mildmay Conference, where Mr. Muller spoke on four different occasions. At Cheltenham, where we stayed from June 30th to July 2nd, he preached twice, and subsequently held two meetings at the Guildhall, Bath. He preached once also at Olevedon. K-2
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132 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS SIXTH TOUR. UNITED STATES AND CANADA. From August 27th, 1879, to June 17th, 1880. A FTER remaining ten weeks in Bristol, where Mr. Miiller attended daily to business connected with the Orphan Houses and the other branches of the Scrip- tural Knowledge Institution, and was occupied with his usual ministry of the Word at the three Chapels with which he is connected; having seen it to be the Lord's will that he should 1,1,gainvisit the United States, on Wednesday, August 27th, 1879, we went to Liverpool, and, on the following afternoon, sailed on board the " Germanic " for New York. During the first few days of our voyage, we had very rough weather; but, when the wind abated, th!l sea became calm, and· our passage was a favourable one upon the whole. On Friday evening, Sept. 5th, at the request of the passengers, my husband gave an address in the saloon, and on the 6th, at 4.20 p.m., we landed at New York. There we stayed at theRossmore Hotel until Sept. 20th, but Mr. Muller did not commence his work before the evening of Sunday, the 14th, when he preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, South Second Street, Brooklyn, about six miles distant.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 133 The following evening we went to Newark, nine miles distant, when he preached at one of the churches to a German congregation, held a Germ,m meeting at New York on the 16th, preached at Newark in English the next evening, and on the 18th and 19th conducted ser- vices in German at New York On Sept. 20th we left for Morristown, New Jersey, where he held several important meetings, and at Drew Theological Seminary addressed the students, 91 in number, for an hour and ten minutes. About nine months afterwards, one of the hearers, a gentleman who has since become the pastor of a church, told us, the blessing he had received, through this· address, was so great, that he had experienced something like a second conversion by means of it. He added, that about one half of the other students also were similarly bleBSedupon the same ~ion. On Sept. 26th we returned to New York, and proceeded thence, viA· Po'keepsy and Albany, to Troy, 157 miles distant, where, at the " Climbers' Rest " (a house stand- ing on a steep hill in a beautiful situation, the residence of a gentleman who had kindly invited us to be his guests), we remained during our stay. At Troy Mr. Miillet preached several times to crowded congregations, and on the 29th attended a meeting of about 80 pastors from the city and neighbourhood, whom he addreBSedfor an hour and a quarter. He visited Troy Orphan Asylum also, spoke to the children, and held one meeting at Lansing- burg. On Oct. 4th we went to Albany, and proceeded ---
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t ·, I 134: MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS afterwards to Saratoga Springs, a beautiful and salubrious spot, much frequented by the Americans, at both of which places my husband preached r.epeatedly, and gave ad- dress~ at pastors' meetings likewise. His last service I at Saratoga Springs was held at the First Baptist Church, on the evening of Oct. 14:,when he preached from 1st Thess. v. 16, to a large congregation. The meeting was a very precious one. On the 15th we left Saratoga Springs, early in the morning, and travelling viA Schenectady, Utica, Rome and Syracuse, arrived at Dr. Foster's Sanatorium, Clifton Springs, 175 miles distant, in the evening. As this establishment is a Christian centre, much resorted to by the Lord's people from various parts of the United States, we remained there until the 23rd ; and, during our stay, Mr. Miiller conducted family worship every morning in the Chapel belonging to the Institution. He preached in the evening also, to congregations consisting of invalids, visitors, and persons from the neighbourhood. On Sun- day evening, Oct.19th, his subject was the Second Advent, on which he spoke for an hour and a quarter wi_thgreat liberty, earnestness and joy, breaking out during his dis- _courseinto fervent prayer that "Christ ·would graciously revive the Church, and arouse His slumbering Bride to look, and watch, and wait for her absent Lord's return." The solemnity with which he spoke was particularly noticed, and the subject was one in which many took a lively interest. From Clifton Springs we went on to Rochester, where
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 135 he preached at St. Peter's, the Plymouth, the First Presbyterian and the Baptist Churches ; and on Sunday evening, Oct. 26th, at the large Brick Chur~h, addressed an overflowing audience, when more than 1,000 people were unable to obtain admittance. On Oct. 28th we went, viA Niagara Falls, to Hamilton, Canada, 'on the shores of Lake Ontario, and afterwards to Brantford, at each of which places Mr. Muller held several meetings. At Hamilton also, at the Music Hall, he addressed the inmates of a Blind Asylum, 71 in number, and at Brantford, besides visiting an Institute for the children of North American Indians, to whom he spoke, called upon the widows at a Widows' Home, and addr888ed them likewise. On Nov. 8th we left Brantford for Toronto, w~ere, in the afternoon at Shaftesbury Hall, he addressed 400 Sunday School teachers, and held a meeting in the even- ing for 200 young men belonging to the Young Men's Christian Association. He preached also on the morning of Sunday, the 9th, at Sherbome Street Methodist Church, addreBBeda Bible class at Shaftesbury Hall in the afternoon, and preached for an hour in the evening, at Knox Presbyterian Church, to about 1,500 persons. On Nov. 10th he gave two addreBBes,in the afternoon and evening, at Shaftesbury Hall, and one address every after- noon in the week besides; preached on the morning of Sunday, the 16th, at the Central Presbyterian Church, and, on that evening and the next, addressed large audi- ences at the great Metropolitan Church,_which holds -
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136 lllISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS 3,000. On the former of these occasions the building was crowded to overflowing. On Nov. 19th we rose at 5, and at 7.12 set off on a journey of 333 miles, by "through express" for Montreal, a city which contains a population numbering upwards of 100,000 Papists, and only about 50,000 Protestants, where we arrived at the Windsor Hotel at 9 o'clock that night. At Montreal, Mr. Miiller preached twice on the Sunday, and every evening in the week, until our departure. His ministry (we heard) was highly valued in that city, and many spoke of bleBBingreceived by means of it. On Nov. 29th, at 4 o'clock, we left for Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion of Canada, 117 miles from Montreal, where we arrived at half-past 9, and on the following day (Sunday) my husband preached morning and evening at the Tabernacle to large congregations. During our short stay at Ottawa, the cold was intense, and there were heavy falls of snow, but we took a drive to the Chaudiere Falls, and saw the residence of the Marquis of Lome, who was tl,,e,n,Governor-General· of Canada. From Barrack Hill, which rises almost perpen- dicularly to an elevation of 350 feet, the prospect was extensive, and the beauty of the scenery in the neighbour- hood of Ottawa is said to be unrivalled. In the neigh- bourhood of the Falls the frost work was remarkable, and the icicles, several feet in length, formed quite a picture. On Tuesday, Dec. 3rd, we left .Ottawa for Brookville,
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 137 Ontario, and on the 5th proceeded to Kingston, at each of which placesMr. Millier held meetings. At Kingston, on Saturday morning, Dec. 6th, he addreBSedthe students of Queen's College, and in the evening preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church. On the morning of Sun- day, the 7th, he held a meeting at the First Congrega- tional Church, and in the .evening addressed an over- flowing audience at a mass meeting in the City Hall, where hundreds were unable to obtain admission. On Dec. 8th he preached again at the City Hall ; gave an address at a pastors' meeting on the morning of the 9th; and in the afternoon we returned to Toronto, 170 miles from Kingston, and arrived there at 11.15 that night. At Toronto, having been particularly invited to attend the Conference meetings at Shaftesbury Hall, on the following morning (Dec. 10th) we were present at the opening prayer meeting, when the Hon. Vice- Chancellor Blake was President. From 10 to 11 Mr. Miiller gave an address on " The inspiration of the Scriptures," and was followedby the Rev. W. J. Erdman, of Jamestown, New York, who spoke from 11 to 12 on "The studyof the Bible;" a subject upon which he threw out several valuable hints. He spoke, for instance, of the importance of reading the Holy Scriptures with a humble, teachable, receptivemind, prepared to set aside notions, thoughts, and prejudices of our own ; to believe al,l that God reveals ; and to e,a,rry out the light received. In the afternoon Mr. Robert Cameron of Brantford spoke on the Second Advent, dwelling upon the glory of
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138 :MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS that period, when the kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdo,!118of our Lord and of His Christ ; and remarked that, in apostolic times, young converts, at the very outset of their course, were instructed in the precious truth of His persona.! return, to which the Scrip- tures so largely and so definitely point. He reminded his hearers also of the instruction given by the Apostle Paul to the Tbessalonians, namely :-" That the day of the Lord shall not come, except there come the apostasy first, and the man of sin (the personal Antichrist) be re- vealed, the son of perdition, whom the Lord shall consume with the spirit of His mouth, and shall destroy with the brightneBBof His coming." Mr. Cameron was followed by Mr. Miiller, who spoke from 4 to 5 upon " Christ in all the Scriptures;" and in the evening there were addresses to Christian Workers from Messrs. Erdman, Macleod, Parlans, and others. On the morning of the 11th the attendance at Shaftes- bury Hall was large, anp Vice-Chancellor Blake again occupied the chair. After half an hour had been spent in prayer, the Rev. E. Harris, of St. Thomas, addressed the meeting; the Rev. P. Macleod, of Stratford, spoke after- wards, and an address from Mr.-Erdman brought the morning service to a close. In the afternoon Mr. Miiller's subject was "The Second Coming of Christ," when he gave an. outline. of the chief events that will precede and accompap.y that glorious event, and dwelt upon many important truths connected with it. He spoke for an hour and 20 minutes. After
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 139 Mr. Erdman had followed with his subject, "No Millen- nium until Jesus comes," for which there was very little time, "Down life's dark vale we wander, Till Jesus comes," was sung with great animation, ~d the meeting terminated. In the evening, from 8 to 9, Mr. Miiller spoke again upon the Second Advent, when he expounded Daniel vii., and in the course of his address made practical remarks connected with the subject, which took up so much time, that Mr. Erdman (as before) was able to say a few words only on the topic allotted to him ; but, as this dear brother in the Lord possessed a gracious, Christ-like spirit, he only said-" I rejoice that Brother Miiller _ should take the lead, for I feel like Timothy standing by the side of Paul" As Mr. Erdman subsequently gave us a few interesting particulars about his own conversion · and experience, which are instructive, for the benefit of others, it may be desirable to record them here. When quite a boy he was an ardent lover of his Greek Testament, and used to read it habitually long before he really believedthe truths which the precious book con- tained ; but, through his constant study of it, became at length a true disciple of the Loi:d Jesus. Some time after his conversion, however, when the pastor of a church, he, like many of his brethren in the ministry, was so tho- roughly opposed to the doctrine of Christ's pre-millennial advent, that he debated publicly against it. Still, from his early youth he had always been a great lover of the simple word •of God, apart from human teaching, and
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140 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS now, in the course of his study of the Greek Testament, was led to see his standing in Christ more clearly than he did when first converted. He found that, by trusting in Jesus, he was pardoned and justified, that he was " Accepted in the Beloved''; and, whilst rejoicing in a full assurance of his own personal salvation, this thought began gradually to steal into his mind-" Ought I not in the same way to take simply and literally, whenever it is poBBibleto do so, all the statements both in the Old and New Testaments that point to the persooalretwmof the Lord J6S'U,SOhrist, and throw light upon that great event I" This single ray of light he diligently followed, and his study of the prophetic word eventually led to his becoming as certainthat the second coming of Christ will be pre-millennial, as he is of any other truth revealed in the Holy Scriptures. On Dec. 12th the Rev. Arthur Burson presided at the Conference, when addreBSes were given by Vice- Chancellor Blake and other brethren. · The subject for the Vice-Chancellorwas--"Watch"; theRev.J.Salmon's, " Man, as seen in the Old and New Testaments" ; Mr. Erdman's, " Eternal Life" ; and in the afternoon, at Shaftesbury Hall, Mr. Millier replied in public to nine written questions that had been handed in, one of which was this--" Are we to expect our Lord's return at any moment,or that certain events must be fulfilled beforeHe comes again I" His answ~r was...:...." I know that on this subject there is great diversity of judgment, and I do not wish to force upon other pers?ns the light I have
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 141 received myself. The subject, however, is not new to me ; for having been a careful, diligent student of the Bible for nearl;r fi~y years, my mind has long been, settled on this point, and I 4ave not the shadow of a doubt about it. The Scriptures declare plainly, that the Lord Jesus will r,,otcome until the apostasy shall have taken place, and the man of sin; the IC son of perdition" (or personal Antichrist), shall have been revealed, as seen in 2nd Thess. ii. Many other portions also of the Word of God distinctly teach, that certain f//Jentsare to be fulfilled before the return of our Lord Jesus Christ. This does not, however, alter the fact, that the wming of Christ,and not death, is the great Hope of the Chu~h, and, if in a right state of heart, we,as the Thessalonian believers did, shall ' serve the living and true God, and -wait fur His Sonfrom Hea'IJ6fl,,' " In the evening Mr. Millier spoke for 40 minutes on " Walking with God;" some valedictory addresses from the Vice Chancellor and other brethren followed, and after singing-" 'Till He come,' oh let the words," etc., the President requested IC Our dear brother, Mr. Millier, to give the benediction," when the happy Toronto Con- ference terminated. During his concluding remarks, Vice-Chancellor Blake expressed his surprise that pastors and servants of Christ, who minister in word and doctrine, take so little notice of the Second Advent, as nearly IC one third of the Bible, either directly or indirectly, points to it." By most of them the subject is ignored ; but IC Christ cruci-
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142 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS fled, Christ risen, and Christ coming,"shoul,dbe their theme. One important feature in the Toronto Conference was-that ,instruction was give.n as to the character of the dispensation in which we live. How ~mportant it is to understand .that there will be no universalblessing 'llOW, but that the very OJYPOsite of this is to be expected ; for iniquity will abound and i'llcrease, in the professing Churck as well as in the world, until at last " the man of sin will be revealed, the son of perdition, whom the Lord shall consume with the spirit of His mouth, and sh~ destroy with the brightness of His coming." How earnestly should we seek to walk and to act now, as in the light of the great day of Christ's appearing ! On Sunday morning, Dec. 14th, Mr. Miiller preached at Elm Street Methodist Church ; and; at the great Metropolitan Church, addressed an immense congregation in the evening, from John xiv. 16, 17. His subject was the indwelling and· power· of the Holy Ghost; and he concluded his sermon with a few words of warning to believers not to grieve the Spirit. . The unconverted were also solemnly reminded, that-" If any man have not the Spirit of Christ, he is none of His." That evening we heard from Mr. Clarkson (pastor of the Sherborne Street Methodist Church) that on Sunday morning, Nov. 9th, when my husband preached for him, there were several conversions amongst his congregation. Referring also to himself, he said-" Your ministry, under Got<J,, has greatly quickened me/' On Saturday morning, Dec. 20th, we left Toronto,
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. OF GEORGE MULLER. 143 and went, viA Hamilton and Niagara Falls, to Buffalo, on the shores of Lake Erie, in the United States, 120 miles distant. There, on the following day (Sunday), Mr. Millier preached at the Westminster Presbyterian Church in the morning, and at the Central Presbyterian in the evening, where there was a " union service." During our visit to Buffalo, he held meetings also at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Asso- ciation, at Prospect Avenue Church, the North Presby- terian, First Baptist and Lafayette Street Churches, at St. Peter's (a large German Church which was crowded to the utmost with a mass meeting of Germans, 2,000 being present), at the new Church of the Evangelical Association, and at Calvary Presbyterian Church. On Dec. 30th, at a meeting for pastors, he.addressed about 50, for an hour and 10 minutes, who received him most affectionately, and on Jan. 4th, 1880, preached a.gain at St. Peter's, in German, to a vast audience of 2,000. In addition to his English services, he held four large German meetings altogether. On Jan. 5th we left Buffalo, and, returning through Niagara Falls and Hamilton, went, viA Paris, to Wood- stock, Canada, where, during our short stay, my husband preached at the Baptist, Knox and Methodist Churches, and gave an address at the Baptist College to the students. During our stay at Woodstock, a pastor from Hamilton related ·to us the following interesting circumstance :- Several years ago John and Thomas Gain, of Hamilton,
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144 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS (two orphan lads) were converted through going to a Sunday School, which they had been in the habit of attending, and some time afterwards " George Miiller's Life of Trust " was given to them. In consequence of ·reading this book-having determined to begin business for themselves, and to carry it on by prayer and faith, according to the principles therein so strongly advo- cated, they began to manufacture paper bags, with addresses printed on them of the men of business by whom the bags were ordered. Desiring, however, to adhere closely to their principle of trust in God, they were most careful to avoid undertaking orders that involved any dep~ure from it, and all kinds of business upon which they could not confidently ask His blessing. This path of faith resulted in prosperity ; for the Lord bless~ them so abundantly, that they became com- paratively rich. John Gain, who has since departed to be with Christ, died triumphantly ; but his brother Thomas is still living, and continues to carry on busi- ness at Hamilton. The gentleman, who related these particulars_,knew them both well, as they were formerly members of the church of which he was the pastor. On Jan. 10th we left Woodstock, and went to London, Ontario, where, the next morning (Sunday), Mr. Miiller preached at Queen's Avenue Methodist Church, and that evening and the next addressed large audiences at St. Andrew's. After this last service we were introduced to several persons, amongst whom was the late Rev. Josiah Henson, a venerable negro, with a
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OF GEORGE HULLER. 14:5 pleasant expression of countenance, and white hair, who shook hands ,-ith us most cordially. This was " Uncle Tom," the hefo _of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," a well-known character to many people. During the remainder of oiµ- short stay at London, Mr. Miiller held a few other meetings; and on Jan. 17th we left Canada for Detroit, Michigan, United States, where, on the afternoons of Sunday, ·the 18th, and Monday, the 19th, he preached at Fort Street Presby- terian Church ; and on the evening of the latter day at St. John's, a German Lutheran Church, which was crowded. A number of German ministers, too, from the city and neighbourhood were present on this occasion. Whilst at Detroit, my husband preached likewise at the First Baptist, Jefferson Avenue, Central Methodist Episcopal, Simpson Methodist Episcopal and Central Presbyterian Churches; held three more meetings for the Germans, addressed a number of pastors at Lafay- ette Street Church, spoke at the Central Methodist Episcopal Church, on Feb. 2nd, to about 500 Christian Workers, and had five private interviews of two hours each with Dr. Pierson (pastor of Fort Street Presby- terian Church) with reference to his labours in the ministry. _ From Detroit, on Feb. 4th, we went to Ypsila.nti, at which place Mr. Miiller preached three times, and addressed about 200 stqdents of the Normal School, or State College, who were being trained for teachers ; and from Ypsila.nti proceeded to Ann Arbor, where, on L
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U6 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Sunday morning, Feb. 8th,be addressed a union meeting of Germans in their own language ·at a German Church. On that evening also, at the Great University Hall, the largest in the State of Michigan, he attended a mass- meeting, consisting of about 1,000 students out of the 2,000 who belong to the University, and 1,800 persons from churches which bad been closed, that their members might attend this service. From the platform of the Hall, a large semi-circular building, just before the sermon, Dr. Brown, of the Presbyterian Church, made a sbon opening speech, and concluded his remarks by saying :-" We have for years, Mr. Miiller, been ac- quainted with your life and labours ; we thank God for you; your work has_been an inspiration to us, and we now most heartily welcome you to the University and to the Churches of Ann Arbor." My husband then addressed the vast audience for an hour, and spoke par- ticularly to the students who formed a large portion of the congregation. The following brief account of this University may here be considered interesting :- " The University of Michigan, located in Ann Arbor, is one of the noblest Institutions in the land. With fees little more than nominal, and with a standard of scholarship as high as any College or University in the country, it numbers amongst its students natives of every part of the globe. The U Diversity buildings occupy a square of ground, each front of which is-nearly a quarter of a mile in length. There are no dor- (
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OF GEORGEllULLEB. 147 mitories, all the space being devoted to purposes of instruction. The library is large and constantly in- creasing ; the geological collection is one of the most perfect in the country ; there is a fine art gallery ; and the medical museum is complete." Before our depar- ture, Mr. Miiller preached at the Presbyterian Church, and held a second German service on Feb. 10th. On the 11th we left Ann Arbor for Olivet, but, in conseguence of a railway accident, our journey was delayed; and having to pass one night at Jackson on the way, and to drive through Charlotte to another station, we did not reach our destination until Thursday afternoon the 12th. At Olivet, a little village, remark- able chiefly for its College, my husband preached only twice ; and on the latter occasion addressed the College students, of whom there were about 300, at the_Church belonging to the Institution. On Feb. 14th we had a long drive to Marshall, 12 miles distant, and then continued our journey by rail to Kalamazoo, 35 miles from Marshall. }Jere Mr. Miiller preached twice at the First Presbyterian Church, and held two union meetings, one at the Wesleyan and the other at the Baptist Church. On the afternoon of • Feb. 18th he gave an address also at Mount Holyoke Seminary for Ladies, which stands upon a hill in a beautiful situation, at a little distance from the town. On Feb. 19th he held a meeting for the 185 students of Kalamazoo College, and on the 20th we left for Chicago, 142 miles from:Kalamazoo. L--2
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·1 14:8 " MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS There my hllBband preached at t1ie First Congrega- tional Church on Sunday morning, the 22nd ; addressed about 2,000 Germans at Mr. Moody's Tabernacle in the afternoon ; held German meetings at Farwell Hall on the !lvenings of the 23rd, 24th and 25th ; and on the 26th gave a farewell address to the Germans of Chicago at ~r. Moody's Tabernacle in the evening. On Feb. 27th, at an evening meeting connected with the Sunday School Teachers' Convention for Cook's County, held at Farwell Hall, which was attended by delegates and superintendents from Chicago and other places, Mr. Muller addressed 1,000 Christian Workers for an hour; and was followed by Major Whittle and Mr. Jacobs, who also gave addresses. On Sunday, Feb. 29th, my husband preached at the Tabernacle in the morning, from 2nd Tim. iv. 7, 8, with great help and power, and· spoke in the afternoon on the Second Coming of Christ, from the parable of the ten virgins, at the same place. On the evenings of the lat and 2nd of March he preached again at the Tabernacle ; held a meeting at the Second Presbyterian Church on the evening of the 3rd,· gave an address at the lecture room of the First Congrega.iionalChurch on the 4:th, and oli the 5th held a farewell meeting at the lecture room of Dr. Goodwin's Church. Before our. departure, the German pastors stated that his ministry had been made a great blessing to their congregation& On March 6th we left Chicago for Milwaukee, the commercial capital of Wisconsin, 85 miles distant, which
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OF GEORGEMOLLER 14:9 contains a population of 130,000, two-thirds of whom are Germans. On the following day (Sunday) Mr. Miiller preached both morning and evening at Immanuel Church, held a meeting on the 8th a~ Plymouth Congre- gational Church, and on the evening of Tuesday, March 9th, addressed a mass-meeting of Germans at the Second Congregational Church. During our stay at Milwaukee, he held three other German meetings, and on the evening of the 11th preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, which was his last service in that city. On March 12th, at midnight, we left for St. Paul, Minnesota, 324 miles from Milwaukee; and, after tra- . velling for many miles along the banks of the U:pper Mississippi through a beautiful district, reached our destination on the 13th, at 1.25 p.m. After our arrival the cold became so severe, that the thermometer regis- tered 10 degrees below zero, that is, 42 degrees of frost. The next morning (Sunday, 14th), at Immanuel Church, Mr. Millier held a meeting for the Germans, who form in.ore than half the population o_fSt. Paul ; and in the evening a mass-meeting of Germans assembled at the Opera House, where he addressed them in ~eir o~ language for an hour. On Monday morning, the 15th, he attended a meeting of pastors, and on that evening and the next preached to large congregations of Germans. During the remainder of our stay at St. Paul, he preached in English also at the Congregational, Methodist Episcopal and Baptist Churches, and gave an address at a meeting of ladies one afternoon.
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150 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS St .. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, is on-the river Mississippi, 2,082 miles from its mouth at New Orleans, and is the largest city in the State. The Mississippi rises in Minnesota; at its source it is 3,160 miles from its mouth, and passes over more than 18 degrees of latitude. During our visit to St. Paul the weather was intensely cold, but the air was of the driest, purest, most invigor- ating character, and is considered particularly healthy even for invalids. On March 20th we went to Minneapolis, where, on the morning of Sunday, the 21st, Mr. Miiller spoke at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association, and preached in the evening at the Plymouth Congregational Church, to about 1,800 people. On March 22nd, at a pastors'meeting, he addressed 50 of his brethren in the ministry, by whom he was most affectionately received; preached on the 24th at East Minneapolis, on the oppo- site bank of the Mississippi ; held a meeting for the Germans on the 25th ; answered written questions at the Methodist EpiscopalCentenary Church the following evening, which had been handed in; and on the 27th addressed the students of the College at Minneapolis, 275 in number. The following note from a pastor at Minneapolis was received after our departure :- " Dear Brother in Christ,-1 cannot express to you the pleasure I have enjoyed in listening to your addresses in this city, all of which,in the English language, I have
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 151 heard. My faith in God, as the hearer and answerer of prayer, has been greatly strengthened, and I -feel that, through His abounding grace, I have, during the last week, enjoyed especial nearness to Him, and have been· better fitted for the ministry I. love. I shall ever be thankful for your visit to Minneapolis, and think of you and your work with affectionate interest. For twelve years I have ministered to t~e church which I now sen-e, and God has been pleased to give me some souls as seals of my ministry ; but I long to be more like my Master, and more successful in my work. God bless you, dear Mr. Miiller, your beloved wife, and your Orphanage in Bristol; and may He abundantly prosper all the labours of your hands. If it shall never be my privilege to meet you again in this world, I shall hope to· be filled with your company in our Father's ho11Se above. Yours, until He come." The State of Minnesota, in which St. Paul and Minne- apolis are situated, is remarkable for the richness and fertility of its soil. The land is divided into sections which contain many hundreds of acres each, and the field operations carried on are conducted by hundreds of men, who form a little army, and work at the same time, with military order and regularity. The har- vesting machines used are so constructed that the com is reaped, gathered into sheaves, bound into bundles, and thrown aside by one single machine ; and, as there is no plonghing by hand, at the time of seed-sowing,furrows,
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Hi2 MISSIONARY. TOURS AND LABOURS seven miles in length, are made across the prairies by ploughing machines which turn up the soil, deposit the grain in the earth, and then cover it over. On March 27th we left by rail for Northfield, a village in Minnesota, 42 miles from Minneapolis, where, on our arrival at the Archer House, we found the wife of a Baptist minister of Faribault kindly waiting to receive us, who, when only 12 years of age, was converted at Bristol through my husband's ministry. The next morning (Easter Sunday) Mr. Millier preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church to a crowded audience from 1st Cor. xv. ; in the evening, at the Congregational Church, he addressed a union meeting of the various Northfield congregations, and before our departure held a meeting for the «;}ermansat a German Church. The morning of March 31st was ushered in by heavy thunder storms, accompanied by high wind ; but the weather moderated in time for us to reach the station at half-past 8. After passing through Faribault, we changed trains at Austin, travelled thence to Plymouth Junction, on one of the great prairies, and at half-past 8 p.m. reached Cedar Rapids, on the Red Cedar river, 222 miles from Northfield, where we passed the night. The next afternoon our journey was continued, and at 5 p.m. we arrived at Mount Vernon, Iowa, where a rough) covered waggon conveyed us to the village inn. At Mount Vernon in the evening, and twice on the following Sunday (April 4th), Mr. Millier preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church to large, attentive audi-
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 153 ences ; but, as engagements had been made for other places, our visit to this village was of brief duration only. On April 5th, accordingly, we rose at half-past 4, and at 6 left for Davenport, Iowa; where, after waiting at De Witt for an hour and a half, we arrived in the middle of the day. · That evening, and on the 6tp. and 7th, MT. Muller preached at the German Con- gregational Church ; during the remainder of our stay at Davenport he held meetings at the Methodist Episcopal, Congregational and Baptist Churches ; and addressed about 200 students at the High School besides. Before our departure, we visited Rock Island, in the Mississippi, upon which a town of the same name stands ; and drove through Moline, celebrated for its large arsenal. Rock Island is connec~d with Davenport by a bridge. On April 13th we set off for Jacksonville, Illinois; and in the course of our journey south, found the weather become as hot as an English July. At this town, which is 85 miles from Davenport, we arrived at 9.20 p.m. ; and, after alighting from the train, were driven to the Dunlap House, about a mile distant from the station.' The next evening Mr. Miiller preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church to a large congre- gation, where, as the thermometer was at 80 degrees, its 14 windows and the front doors were left open, tli.at no inconvenience might be occasioned from the oppressive- ness of the heat. On April 15th we visited the " State Asylum for the
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154 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Deaf and Dumb,'' a most interesting Institution, where the Principal (Dr. Gillett) conducted us to a large hall, in which the inmates of the Establishment (consisting of 460 deaf and dumb pupils, male and female, and 35 teachers,) were at dinner. All eyes being immediately directed towards us, Dr .. Gillett explained at once, by signs and finger language, who the visitors were ; and announced that at half-past one, Mr. ~eorge Millier, of Bristol, England, would address the whole assembly in the Chapel ; upon which, a young man (one of the deaf mutes} stood up, and with his fingers said-" I long to hear him." Our attention was then directed to "the happy family" seated at two adjoining tables, the members of which included a Pole, some Jews, a German, a Portuguese, a Frenchman, a negro, a Swede, an Englishman, an Irishman, a Scotchman, an American and an Italian. At the hour appointed, we went into the Chapel, which adjoins the Institution, and there, from a high platform (with Dr. Gillett standing close to him, who, with his fingers, interpreted as rapidly as the words were uttered), Mr. Miiller preached the Gospel to the large community of deaf and dumb, and afterwards, by particular request, gave a very brief account of the Orphan work on Ashley Down, Bristol, and the other branches of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution. At the close of his address, an attempt was made by the- (can they be called 1) to express their satisfaction 1,,,,o,rers by applause.,; but the desire was checked instantly by Dr. Gillett. We then distributed some Gospel tracts
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 155 .. amongst them, and afterwards visited the educational and industrial departments of the Institution, including ~ room devoted to drawing, painting, and other artistic employments, in which some of the deaf and dumb pupils excel. All the furniture used in the establishment, and the boots and shoes worn by its inmates, are made on the premises. This is the largest Deaf and Dumb Institution in the world. Before our departure from Jacksonville, Mr. Miiller preached twice at the Presbyterian Church ; but, having made engagements for other places, was unable to pro- long his visit. On April 17th, therefore, we rose at half-past 4:,set off by an early train for Bloomington, IDinois, 90 miles from Jacksonville, and arrived there the same morning at half-past ten. The next day (Sunday, the 18th) my husband preached morning and evening at the First Presbyterian Church, when the congregations were larger than could have been expected, considering the unfavourable weather, which was oppressively hot, with very high wind and rain that fell at intervals in torrents. These storms gradually increased, and on Monday, in the middle of the night, we were roused by a cyclone, which broke over the town. The high wind then became a hurricane, the sky was in a blaze with light- ning for hours, loud peals of thunder burst overhead, and rain, mixed with hail, swept down upon the streets in a complete deluge. Every moment we expected our windows to be blown in, and feared that a frightful
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156 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS crash in some part of the hotel would announce that great damage had been done; but, happily, towards morning, the wind gradually a~ted, and at last (through the Lord's kindness) the storm ceased. For a few days the newspapers contained alarming accounts of this tornado, and mentioned numerous places devastated by it, amongst which was Marshfield, where the destruction was overwhelming. "Tl:µs part of the country" (said the "Daily Sentinel," of Indianapolis) "was visited last evening by one of the most terrific cyclones on record. After passing through several mil~s of country, it struck Mrifield about half- past 6 p.m., when an eye-witness of the .approaching storm described it as a frightful-looking black cloud, lined with fleecy white. It was funnel shaped, and moved like a screw-propeller with wonderful velocity, literally destroying and blowing away everything in its path, which was about half a inile wide, and carrying death and destruction with it. Seventy-eight people were killed instantly, and eighty-five were wounded. Large trees were twisted o~ telegraph wires were snapped, houses were blown from their foundations, and what was a beautiful, peaceful, quiet town 24 hours ago, is now a waste of desolation." Before our departure from Bloomington, Mr. Miiller preached at each of the two Presbyterian Churches, and held one German meeting. On April 21st we went to Indianapolis, the capital of Indiana, 166 miles from Bloomington, a beautiful city
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01!' GEORGE MULLER. 157 on the western branch of the White River, surrounded by an extensive plain. There my husband preached at the Second and Third Presbyterian, the First Baptist, the Meridian Street Methodist and the German Methodist Churches, and attended a meeting of pastors on the 26th, when he addressed many of his brethren in the ministry for an hour. From Indianapolis, on April 28th, we proceeded to Cincinnati, Ohio, where, during our visit of 10 days, he preached three times at the Vine Street Congregational Church, and twice at-the Central Presbyterian Church ; gave an address at the Friends' Meeting House, con- ducted three services in the city for the Germans (of whom there are many thousands in Cincinnati), addressed 200 ministers at a pastors' meeting, and, on the evening of May 5th, preached in German at Immanuel Methodist Ch~ Covington, Kentucky, five miles distant. Be- sides these services, on May 1st we visited Mr. Shipley's Home for Children, where he gave a short address to the young people. Cincinnati is 861 miles from New York. It extends along the northern bank of the river Ohio, and has a population of between three and four hundred thousand. From there, on May 8th, :we went to Dayton, Ohio, 56 miles from Cincinnati, where Mr. Millier preached the same evening at a German Church. During our stay, he held meetings also at the First Presbyterian and First Baptist Churches, and gave an address at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association.
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158 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On May 11th we visited the "Central National Soldiers' Home," three miles and a half from Dayton, which consists of a group of buildings more than 40 in number, where, up to that time, 4,245 men had been received, all of whom were soldiers disabled or invalided by wounds, received during the late war. The Brick Hall, which seats 3,000, is the largest dining hall in the United States. AB numbers of these soldiers were either walking or sitting about in the beautiful grounds belonging to the Institution, we were able to distribute tracts amongst them. The average expenses of the Home are 400,000 dollars (or £80,000) per annum. From Dayton, on May 12th, we went to Cleveland, Ohio, 190 miles distant, where, on that evening and the next, my husband preached at the United German Church. On the 14th we left for Buffalo, and the following day continued our journey to Dansville, Livingstone County, New York, 283 miles from Cleveland, where, at "Our Home on the Hill Side," a Hygienic Institution, we speni eleven days, having received an invitation from Dr. Jackson, the Principal of the Establishment, to be his guests. There, on Sunday morning (the 16th), Mr. Miiller preached at "Liberty Hall" (the Chapel belonging to the Institution), to the patients, and the other inmates of the Home ; and in the evening addressed a large, crowded audience, at the Methodist Episcopal Church, Dansville. During the week, he conducted morning
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 159 family worship at " Our Home," and gave one or two addresses at the prayer meetings ; and on the following Sunday (May23rd) preached at the English and German Lutheran Churches. This Hygienic Institution consists ot one large main building, and a number of smaller detached residences, which belong to it. Here, all the natural agencies, such as air, water, food, sunlight, electricity, exercise, rest and recreation, are brought into use for the restoration of the sick, and obedience to the laws of nature is en- joined, as one of the first requisites for recovery. On the morning of May 27th Mr. Miiller gave a farewell address to the inmates of " Our Home;" at half-past 3 we left for Rochester, and in the evening went on to the Sanatorium, at Clifton Springs, 90 miles from Dansville. There, during this secondvisit, he preached at the Chapel on the evening of the 28th, conducted family worship on the mornings of Saturday the 29th and Sunday the 30th, and preached on the evening of the 30th at the Chapel to a large congrega- tion. On Monday evening (May 31st) he preached again at the Chapel of the Sanatorium, gave a farewell address at the same place the following morning, and, at a little prayer meeting in the evening, we were both commended to the Lord for our approaching voyage to England. As the time for our departure from the United States had now arrived,on Wednesday, June 2nd, at 9.22 a.m., we started, via Syracuse, Richland and Watertown, for
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160 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Cape Vincent, at the north-east extremity of Lake Ontario ; reached our destination at half-past 6, and, embarking in the boat which was waiting, after a pleasant little voyage of eleven miles across the lake, landed at Kingston at half-past 8, and went to the " British American Hotel." On the following morning we rose at haH-past 3, went on board the steamer" Spartan", and started for Mon- treal. The vessel was crowded with passengers, but, the weather being fine, the voyage was delightful. After leaving Lake Ontario, we passed through the " Lake of the Thousand Islands," as the first 40 miles of the river St. Lawrence are called, surrounded by the most beau- tiful scenery, reached Ogd~nsburg in a few hours, and at 4 o'clock went down "the Rapids," a dangerous pas- sage, formerly considered impracticable, but now, by the help of Indian pilots, successfully accomplished. In the evening, at the close of a long day's voyage, we arrived at Montreal, changed steamers there, and, after a favour- able night passage, on Friday morning, ·June 4th, at half-past 7, landed at Quebec. On the evening of that day Mr. Miiller preached at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association, but there was no time for him to hold further meetings before our departure for England. The next morning, Saturday, the 5th of June, at 9 o'clock, we went on board the" Sardinian"(Allan Line), and soon after 10 began our voyage down the river. In the evening, at 7 o'clock, a meeting was held in the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 161 forecastle for the sailors, to whom my husband spoke for 20 minutes, and at 8 o'clock he conducted a Bible reading in the Chart Room. On Sunday morning, June 6th, he preached in the saloon, and every day had a • Bible reading with the passengers. After entering the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we passed through six hundred miles of fogs and icebergs, which so greatly hindered the progress of the ship, that the voyage occupied eleven days instead of only eight or nine. On Sunday morning, June 13th, Mr. Muller preached again in the saloon, and spoke in the afternoon from Job xvii 9, at a little meeting in the Chart Room. On Wednesday, the 16th, at 3 p.m., we landed at Liverpool, proceeded the next day to Bristol, and arrived on Ashley Down at half-past 4 ; where the dear Orphan boys and girls received and welcomed us with hearty cheers. Near the lodge a number of Christian friends also had assembled to witness our arrival, and, at New Orphan House No. 3, we had the pleasure of greetin~ and shaking hands with nearly all our numerous helpers. Thus ended our sixth missionary tour, marked in every way by the loving kindness of the Lord, in the course of which my husband preached 299 times at 42 different places.
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162 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS SEVENTH TOUR. CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. From Sept. I~th, 1880, to May 31st, 1881. A FTER Mr. Miiller had laboured for ten months in word and doctrine during our :firstvisit to America, though he preached 308 times, we had to leave the country with I 08 written invitations which he was not then able to accept. Thie led us to go to· the United States a second time, when we stayed nine months, and he spoke in public 299' times altogether; but, on leaving, found that 154 written invitations remained unaccepted. On this account, therefore, after staying in Bristol from · June 17th, 1880, to Sept. 15th of the same year (where he laboured continually at the· Orphan Houses, and in pastoral work belonging to the three chapels with which he is connected), believing it to be the will of God that he 'should return to the United States, on Thursday, Sept. 16th, we embarked at Liverpool for Canada in the " Sardinian ; " and, after a favourable voyage, on Sept. 26th, at 11 a.m., landed at Quebec. During the passage he held eight meetings, spoke at three Bible readings, and circulated about 200 little books amongst the passengers and crew. On the evening of the 26th he preached at the Baptist Chfil1lh, i j
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OF GEORGE MULLER, 163 Quebec; and during the seven days that we remained held eight other meetings in the city. Whilst ~t Quebec, a Roman Catholic gentleman of high position attended nearly all the services ; we conversed with him after- wards, and he gladly accepted the three volumes of my husband's Narrative; (the fourth was not then, written.) On Oct. 4th, at 8 p.m., we left Quebec by rail, arrived at Boston, in the United States, at 10 minutes past 5 on the following aftern?on, and i:emained there five weeks. During that period Mr. Millier preached many times at the different places of. worship, and attended the "Market men's prayer meeting" at noon, where he habitually gave addresses. This meeting was frequented chiefly by men of business, who met every day for prayer and exhortation from 12 to 1 o'clock. My hus- band _preached also at East Cambridge, Chelsea, Newton and N ewtonville ; addressed the students of the Theo- logical Seminary a~ Newton Central, seven miles from Boston, and on Oct. 27th held a meeting for the students of the Theological Seminary of the University of Boston. On Oct. 29th we went to Wellesley College, 16 miles from Boston, where, on that evening and the next morn- ing, he ,addressed the 360 lady students who belonged to it, many of whom were Christians. Neither in Great Britain, nor on the Continent of Europe, have we ever seen educational establishments for young ladies equal to the Colleges which are to be found in the United States. When visiting four of these Institutions, we , M-'-2
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164 1 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS . heard that the pupils are not only instructed. in the various branches pf a first class education, but that the young ladies are carefully trained in a knowledge of housekeeping also, and of the numerous domestic duties connected with home life. By turns, they each do the ·I portion_of the-daily work of the establishment assigned to them, both for the sake of learning howit should be done p~perly, and also that physical exercise may be healthfully combined with the · culture of the mind. The religious training at these Colleges,too, is excellent, and the spiritua1 interests of the young ladies are care- fully attended ,to. Before our departure from Boston, we visited Ply- mouth, New England, 37 miles distant, where Mr. Millier preached at the" Church of the Pilgrims," an interesting _ place of worship, because it represents the Church erected by the " Pilgrim Fathers " on their first arrival in the United States. Plymouth is noted as being the place where they landed on the 22nd of Dee., 1620, and as containing the site of the first house ever built in New England. At " Pilgrim's Hall" are many interesting relies that belonged to them, brought over to America in the " Mayflower," which conveyed the strangers across the Atlantic to their ne.w home. At Boston and in the neighbourhood my husband spoke 38 times in public altogether. After leaving this city, Milford, Massachusetts, was our next resting place, where four meetings were held ; and on Nov. 13th we left for Amherst. Here, on the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 165 following afternoon, at the College Chapel, Mr. Miiller · addressed 339 students; in the evening, at the Col!gre- gational Church, he preached to a crowded congregation, and the next morning attended a pastors' meeting, when he addressed fifteen of hie fellow labourers in the ministry, whom he sought to encourage in their service for the Lord. From Amherst we went to Northampton, where, at Smith's Qollege, he addressed 260 Qf the lady students. In this town President Edwards resided for many yea.re, and the Church, at which he ministered, wae pointed out. On Nov. 18th we paid a second visit to Mount Holyoke Female Seminary, South Hadley, founded in 1837 by Mary Lyon, where, that evening and the next morning, Mr. Miiller addressed the 250 lady students who belonged to it. From this Institution many godly young women have gone forth as missionaries ; and some Christian school-teachers of note were trained and educated at Mount Holyoke. On the evening of Nov. 19th my husband preached at South Hadley Church, eatly on the morning of the 20th he gave. a third address to the young ladies at the Seminary, and on the fore- noon of that day we left for Hartford, Connecticut, 52 miles from South Hadley, where he preached six times, and addressed thirty of his brethren in Christ at a pastors' meeting. Be held three meeting~ also in this city for the Germans. On Nov. 27th we went to New Haven, Connecticut, the seat of Yale College, founded in the.year 1700; and
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166 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS whilst there, through the courtesy of the President and of the University Chaplain, Mr.Miillerhad opportunities of addressing a considerable number of the students, for whom. he held two meetings. This was an important service, which he gladly undertook, having heard of great blessing resulting from his labours amongst the' students of Colleges, Theological Seminaries and U Diversities, both in Eur9pe and America. At New Haven he preached twelve times, and 'once at Fair Haven in the vicinity. Four of these meetings ·were in German ; at one he addressed ,a number . of pastors, and at another spoke to 140 children belonging to the Orphan Asylum. On Dec. 8th we left New Haven.for New York, and remained there fourteen weeks and three days ; because, during our two former visits' to America,-having been able to give but little time to this, the largest city in the United States, Mr. Miiller considered it right to' remain as long as possible, that he might do what he could for the spiritual welfare of the people. The popu- lation of New York is about one million four hundred thousand. It contains upwards of three hundred thou- sand Germans, and as at Brooklyn there are two hundred thousand more, he had abundant opportunity of labour- ing amongst them. The English speaking population of this city, Brooklyn and the neighbourhood, is about one million and a half. We remained therefore at New York from Dec. 8th, 1880, to March 19th, 1881. During the whole of this period my husband preached
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 167 69 times in the city, 15 times at Brooklyn, once: at Harlem, twice at Hoboken, New Jersey, twice at Tre- mont, once at Washington Heights, and twice at Union Hill, New Jersey-92 meetings altogether, 38 of which were in German. That winter was the coldest that had been known in New York for thirty years, an4 the many long drives my beloved husband took at night to Brook- lyn and other places, sev~n,eight, or nine miles from our Hotel, when the weather was most severe, were very trying, especially as it was necessary to cross a ferry, where the ice was occasionallyso thick, that it was with difficulty that a passage could be forced through it by the steamer. Cons~ned by the love. of Christ, how- ever, he persevered in a service that would have been considered, by most persoru; of his age, an arduous undertaking; but though he felt the cold, he was not allowed to s11fferfrom it in the least. On March 19th we went to Newark, New Jersey, a city of about 120,000 inhabitants, amongst whom there are more than 30,000 Germans. Before our arriva~ a series of services for them ~ad been arranged, so that for three weeks Mr. Miiller preach~ exclusivelyamongst the Germans, and not until a later period at the large American churches of the city. During our visit to N ewark1 he preached three times at Elizabeth, twice at Orange, twice at Bloomfield,gave long addresses at two meetings for pastors, held three meetings for Christian "°orkers, conducted one service for Theological students, ·and preached 26 times at Newark.
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I 168 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS J On April 18th we went to Port Chester, where he · preached four times ; on the afternoon of April 22nd we ieft for Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, 464 miles distant ; and on the morning of April 23rd arrived at the Mononga-- hela Hotel, Pittsburg, after travelling all night. There, l my husband held nine meetings in English, and nine in German (as Pittsburg and Alleghany, an adjoining city, contain about 60,000 Germans), and attended two meet- ings of German and American pastors whom he addressed. Pittsburg, which is a very large manufacturing city, was enveloped in one vast cloud' of smoke, and fine particles of dust, so that, although the weather was at times sultry and oppressive, it was necessary always to keep the windows shut. " This city is at the head of the river Ohio, at the confluence of the Alleghany and the Monongahela, and is situated in a district extremely rich in mineral wealth; whilst its vicinity to inexhaustible coal and iron mines has raised it to great distinction as. a manufacturing place. The immense extent of its manufactures, and of the coal and oil trade of the city, can be realized from the fact that, within the limits of what is known throughout the country as Pittsburg, there are 35 miles of manufactories of iron, glass, steel, copper, oil, woods, cotton and brass, without including manufactories of various other-materials." On May 12th we left Pittsburg, and, after passing one night at Philadelphia, returned to New York on the 13th, where Mr. Miiller fulfilled a few preaching engage- ments, before our embarkation for England on the 21st.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 169 During this our third tour in the United States, he preached 244 times altogether. At eighteen of these meetings, he addressed German or American pastors ; fifteen were held for the stude11.tsof Universities, Theo- logical Seminaries and Colleges; and seven for Christian workers. On Saturday, May 21st, we embarked for England, on board the " Britannic," and, after a most favourable pas- sage, landed at Liverpool on May 30th. · The next day we returned to Bristol; and, on reaching Ashley Down in the afternoon at half-past 4, were cordially welcomed home by many hundreds of the Orphan boys and girls, who, with several Christian friends and a large staff of helpers at t-he Orphan Houses, were waiting our arrival. Thus ended this seventh missionary tour, a long journey by land aud water, which, like our previous travels, was marked from beginning to end by innumerable mercies.
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170 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS EIGHTH TOUR. EGYPT, PALESTINE, ASIA MINOR, TURKEY AND GREECE. FromAugust 23rd, 1881, to May 30th, 1882. A FTER remaining in Bristol for eleven weeks, on August 23rd, 1881, we set off for Dover on our. eighth missionary tour; crossed over to Calais on the 24th, went on to Paris, and, having started for Switzer- land on the 25th, arrived at Berne on the 27th. After Mr. Miiller had preaclied many times there, had held meetings at Mii.nnedorf,Wadenschwyl, Zurich, Basel and Stuttgart, having been led, through the advice of a brother in Christ, to decide on visiting the Holy Land, on Thursday, Oct. 20th, at 2 p.m., we embarked at Marseilles, in the steamer " Said," for Alexandria. My husband had had it particularly laid upon his heart to comfort and encourage the missionaries from Great Britain, America, Germany, Switzerland, and- other countries, who labour in the East, because their trials and difficulties are great ; and he desired to visit some of the German colonies, that he might preach amongst them, and encourage the German pastors in their work. After leaving Marseilles, the weather for eighteen hours was very rough, but, _as the wind gradually abated, the
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• ' OF GEORGE MULLER. 171 sea became calm ; the ship was anchored in the Bay of Naples for a few hours, and at half-past 2 on the after- noon of Oct. 26th we landed at Alexandria. , Here the Scotch minister, the German pastor, and the German deaconesses showed us much kindness ; and, during the ten days that we remained, Mr. Millier had a considerable amount of work. He preache~ repeatedly in German at the Prussian hospital, held meetings in English at the Scotch . Free Church, addressed the chilm:en of the Scotch Jewish Mission Schools, and the children of the .American United Presbyterian Mission Schools, and preached at the German Church. On the afternoon of Nov .. 3~ we went by rail to Ramleh, six miles distant, which has a cooler climate than Alexandria, and contains a few handsome residences, where s01ne of the wealthy inhabitants of the !}itylive. On the way we passed four Cemeteries, one Jewish, another Catholic, a third Greek, and the fourth Ma- hometan. The tombs in the Mahometan burying ground were of an Oriental character, and very unlike monu- ments erected over graves in European Cemeteries. We passed a palace belonging to the Khedive or Viceroy of Egypt also. A l_argegi-ove of palm trees laden with dates had a most luxuriant appearance. At Ramleh, at a small chapel, Mr. Miiller addressed a congregation of Catholics, Jews and Protestants, who understood English; and on the 4th, at the Scotch Mission School, con.;ersed with several Jewish girls, by means of Arabic translation. In going to and from the meetings, we noticed the
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172 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS great variety of costumes worn by persons who passed us in the streets. Loose, white garments, and red. turbans, with gold ornaments, were worn by the Turks ; most of the women were closely veiled, so that their eyes only could be seen; and a few had veils arranged in such a manner, that one eye alone was visible. Brass orna- ments too, fixed between the eyes, were generally worn· by w-veiled women, which disfigured their countenances much. Most of the poor walked about· barefoot, and some Arabs, in thin clothing, slept soundly, as they lay stretched at full length by the side of the pavement in the streets. During our short stay at Alexandria the heat was great; as late in the, year as the beginning of November, the thermometer sometimes registered 90 degrees, and the flies and mosquitos were most trouble- some. On Nov. 4th Mr. Miiller preached a farewell sermon at the Prussian Hospital, in German, and on the 6th we went by rail to Cairo, where he preached for the German pastor, and held meetings in connection with the American Mission; openings for service being numerous in this city as well as at Alexandria. On Nov. 9th we set off early in an open carriage, with a dragoman as interpreter, to see the Pyramids, ten miles from Cairo, which are reached by a good road under a shady avenue of trees ; and a little before noon alighted near " the great pyramid of Cheops, 460 feet high, which was erected as a tomb, about 30 centuries ago, when its construction employed 100,000 men for twenty years.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 173 The exterior of this pyramid was once smooth, but it is now rough and· uneven, presenting 206 steps from one. to four feet high, by which an ascent to the summit is made. From this point the view includes the Nile, the minarets of Cairo, the plain where the French defeated the Mamelukes, the site of Memphis, the great African Desert, a multitude· of tombs, and two other Pyramids . . From Gizeh to Memphis, on the west side of the Nile, about 70 Pyramids can be counted, all burial places of kings, with tombs and chapels adjoining them. A quarter of a mile from the nearest Pyramid, lies the Sphinx, a stone lion 102 feet long, now heavicy buried in sand, having a human face 18 feet in length; but the head and part of the neck only are now visible.'' Our walk to the Sphinx was oppressively warm, for the sun shone with a brightness that was dazzling. The heat and glare too, from the sandy ground on which we trod, made the atmosphere around like the hot air issuing from an oven. Troups of Bedouin Arabs congregate in the neighbour- hood of the Pyramids, who flock around strangers and volunteer their services as guides. Besides visiting the Pyramids, before our departure from Clili-o,we walked through the Museum, which con- tains a valuable collection of Egyptian curiosities, con- sisting of statues, pottery, manuscripts of the Pharaohs, and other relics, some of which are supposed to be nearly 4,000 years old; but the most remarkable objects in the Museum are the mummies. These are embalmed bodies, principally of Egyptian Kings, recently discovered, and --
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174 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS amongst them (it is said) is the mummy of that great oppressor of the Israelites, the Pharaoh, during whose reign they had so much to suffer, until delivered by Jehovah through his servant Moses. On Nov. 11th we left Cairo for Ismailia, and from there proceeded in a small ~ail steamer, vii the Snez · Canal, to Port· '.Said, where we arrived two hours after midnight. At this town Mr. Miiller preached twice in English; and on Sunday, Nov. 13th, at the former of these two services, were fourteen English sailors who had recently been shipwrecked. Their lives therefore_- having been so mercifully preserved, he took advantage of the circumstance to preBBupon them the acceptance of the Gospel. At Port Said he held only oµe German meeting, upon which occasion fifteen young men and women from Bohemia, who gained a ;livelihoodby exer- cising their talent for music, were present, all of whom were Roman Catholics. To each a copy of the Bible or New Testament in German was given, and the fourteen sailors were presented with Bibles or Testaments in English. After this German service was over, a meeting was held also for the breaking of bread, where Mr. Miiller gave an address in English. On the following day, at 2 p.m..,we went 'on board a large Russian mail steamer bound for Jaffa, and found that, besides the saloon passengers, there were about 100 Russian pilgrims in the steerage of the ship, accom- panied by their priests of the Greek Church, who were all travelling on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.. These •
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. OF GEORGE MULLER. 175 pilgrims performed their religious services ·on deck, where they bowed, crossed themselves repeatedly, and turned their faces eastward towards the Holy Land. They looked very poor, and were dirty in their habit.s and appearance. Each individual belonging to this company was supplied with a copy of the Holy Scrip- tiµ-es in Russ, at a nominal price, by a'Scotch Evan- gelist and a colporteur, who labour for the Loffl; habi- tually at Port Said. After a favourable passage, on· Nov. 15th, at 8 a;m.., we arrived off Jaffa, on the coast of Palestine, and~ as there is no harbour to the town, anchored about a mile distant from the shore ; but, on account of cholera at •Mecca, had to remain there for. quarantine four and twenty hours. ·On the 16th, however, at 8 a.m., the Turkish doctors p~rmitted us to land ; but the passage from the steamer to the shore, in a boat rowed by eight Arabs, was exceedingly nnpleasant, the waves at Jaffa being tremendous when the wind is high. From the ship's deck, the town had a striking and even beautiful appearance ; but, on walking through the streets, we {Qund them only filthy lanes, and were glad to take up our abode at the Jerusalem Hotel, situated in a pleasant locality, at some distance from the shore. As there is a large German colony at J a:tra, and American and English miBBionariesreside in the town, Mr. Miiller was able to preach both to German and to English congregations, and with Arabic interpretation, when neither of these languages was understood. He •
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176 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS preached also at Sarona, another German colony, three miles distant, and held meetings in German at the house of a Russian Baron r~iding at Jaffa. On Nov. 21st, at the residence of the English clergyman, he addressed about 60 persons at half-past 4 ; and on the following day preached at a Hall belonging to Miss Arnot, a Christian lady from Scotland, who has a large school for Arabic children. On the morning of tQe 24th he spoke at the Dispensary to a congregation con- sisting of Mahometans, Jews, and members of the Greek Church, when the .Syrian doctor (a. Christian) translated for him into Arabic ; and on the 25th addressed 100 individuals, including natives · and English-speaking persons, with Arabic translation, at the same place. On the morning of Sunday, Nov. 27th, he gave an address at the Baron's house in German, and in the afternoon preached for the English clergyman, on the second coming of Christ. During our walks at Jaffa, we greatly admired the plantations of orange and lemon trees which flourish there luxuriantly ; and the high, thick hedges of prickly pears, cactus, etc., which abound, show that the warmth of the climate is semi-tropical ; but the town itself con- sists of poor bazaars,dismal houses, and dirty, crooked lanes, which repel visitors instead of inviting them to sojourn there. After a sojourn of twelve days at Jaffa, at 7 o'clock on the morning of Nov. 28th, we started for Jerusalem in an open Russian waggon, drawn by three horses-,the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 177 only kind of conveyance to be obtained, and noticed that between Jaffa and Ramleh, where we stopped for. an hour, the land was tolerably well cultivated, and looked fertile. .At half-past 12, as the horses required further rest, we alighted at a little road-side Inn, and in two hours our journey was resumed, when .we travelled through a district called in Scripture, the " Mountains of Judrea," where the aspect of the country became wild and desolate. Palestine, spoken of in the Old Testament as "A land flowing with milk and honey," and as " The glory of all lands," is now barren, rocky $Dd uncultivated ; and it is evident that the curse of ~d rests not only upon .the Jews, but upon their cown,fnyalso, which is now under Turkish rule. Neverthelesa, the day is coming when Jehovah will remember the land also ; for at the return of the Lord Jesus, when Israel as a nation will be converted and restored, " The desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose." At length, after a trying journey of twelve hours, over a rough, rugged road, nearly covered with large, loose stones, at a quarter-past 7, we reached Jerusalem and alighted uutside the J aff'a gate, because carriages cannot enter the city, as the streets are far too narrow and too badly paved, for conveyances of any kind to be driven along them. At the Mediterranean Hotel, we engaged a pleasant corner room upon the first floor, from which there was a fine view of the Mount of Olives ; and the terrace on its fl.at roof, where we took our daily N
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178 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS walks, commanded an extensive prospect. It included the Mosque of Omar on Mount Moriah, where the Temple formerly stood, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Mosque on Mount Zion, which contains the tomb of David, the site formerly occupied by Herod's Palace, the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, The Citadel, or Tower o~ David, most of the public buildings in the city, and the Mount of Olives. During our stay at Jerusalem, Mr. Miillerheld numerous meet- ings in English and in German, and preached habitually in these two languages, both with and without interpr&- tation into Arabic. At a church where Arab Christians assemble for worship he preached with translation into that language ; at Zion School, founded by Bishop Gobat, he addressed the teachers belonging to it ; spoke in English and in German at the Jewish ·school of Industry ; preached six times in part of a building called St. John's Palace, now fitted up as a German chapel ; gave an addreBBat the lecture room of the English Church ; spoke to the children of a Syrian Orphanage outside the city, two miles distant, with Arabic interpretation; addressed 108 Arab girls in German twice at the Talitha Cumi boarding school; spoke in English, without translation, to 135 boys and several gentlemen and ladies at Bishop Gobat's school ; attended a Dorcas meeting two afternoons, where he addressed a considerable number of ladies, in German ; spoke a second time at the Syrian Orphanage with Arabic interpretation ; and upon two different occasions
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 179 addressed the p~tients at a small hospital for lepers outsid~ the city. He spoke twice also to the patients of another hospital. Jerusalem, when compared with European cities, is now only a sma.11town, round which the traveller may walk in less than 50 minutes, containing a population of about 28,000, which includes the Jews, of whom there are 8,000. These Israelites are generally very poor, and settle in Jerusalem, because money is frequently sent there from Europe by wealthier Jews for the relief of their poorer brethren in Palestine ; but, at the present time, there is no indication whatever of any gathering of. Jews on an extensive scale from other countries to their own land. The missionaries who labour amongst them meet with comparatively little encouragement in their work, for the number of true converts from Judaism to Christianity is extremelysmall, a fact mentioned, not as a discouragement for service, but to stir up Christiane to prayer. Since our return from Palestine, hqwever, these brethren have been more successful in their labours, and have had great cause for thankfulness. On the afternoon of Dec. 3rd we joined a party of English friends, and rode on donkeys to Bethany, a mile and a half distant, the English clergyman kindly acting as our guide. On our way we crossed the Brook Kidron, saw the Garden of Gethsemane, now enclosed by a wall ; and visited the cave, hewn· out of a rock, where it is supposed Lazarus was buried. Ari old ruined' house; said to have been the dwelling place of N-2
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180 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Martha, Mary and Lazarus, was also pointed out. From the summit of the Mount of Olives the view em- braced a portion of the Dead Sea, 25 miles distant, the plain of Jordan, the well-watered plain which Lot chose for himself, the Mountains of Moab in the distance, the neighbourhood of the Cave of Adullam, and a small part of the river Jordan which flows into the Dead Sea. The weather was magnificent ; after sunset. the whole scene was lighted up by the full moon which shone brilliantly, and coming down the Mount of Olives, we had the finest view of Jerusalem that is to be obtained from any point. The Garden of Gethsemane, containing eight tJeryJ old olive trees (considered by some, from their ancient characteristics, to be coeval with the period of our Lord's history on earth), we passed both on' our way to and from the Mount. On the morning of Dec. 9th we rode on donkeys to Bethlehem, six miles from Jerusalem ; and, after lunch- ing in a cloister of the Latin Convent, visited a ohurch erected on the spot, where, according to tradition, the manger stood, in which after His birth our Lord was laid. During our stay at Jerusalem, we had oppor- tunities also of visiting the various places of interest for which the city is celebrated. The Via Dolorosa, the Mosque of Omar (built on the site formerly occupied by Solomon's Temple), the Church _of the Holy Sepulchre (erected, according to tradition, on the spot where our Lord was crucified), Absalom's Pillar, the Pool of Bethesda, the site of Herod's palace, the ruins of the ,J
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OF ~EORGE MULLER. 181 Castle to which Paul ns taken, and the Pool of Siloam, were all visited in tum. One of the most memorable places in the city is "The Wailing Place of the Jews," where, every Friday afternoon, shortly before sunset, they assemble to bewail the calamities that have be- fallen their land and city. On Dec. 2nd we saw about 200 Israelites gathered close to some immense old stones, the remains of the Temple it is supposed, which, after praying and bowing repeatedly, with tears in their eyes, they ki886d. About one third of the present small population of Jerusalem (28,000) consists of Mussulmans; the rest are Jews, Christians of the Greek, Armenian and Roman Catholic Churches, and a very few Protestants. There are 25 Convents, 10 Monasteries, and 3 large Syna- gogues within its walls. The J aft'a Gate, situated near the Citadel, or Tower of David, is one of the principal entrances to the city, and the southern portion of the town, between the ancient Temple and part of Mount Zion, is the quarter occupied by the Jews. In the streets of Jerusalem., day after day, we saw numbers of men, women and children standing about half-naked, or clothed in miserable rags ; and strangers cannot walk a short distance even, without being be- sieged for alms by the beggars that abound, not a few of whom are lepers. They hold up their disfigured hands and arms, and, pointing to their dreadful sores, follow visitors persistently, entreating them, in piteous,
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182 · MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS lamentable tones of voice, to have compassion on, and to help them. Whilst at Jerusalem, from the windows of our room, we saw many funeral processions pass, when the re- mains of the deceased were borne along, either in open · coffins,or in coffinswith glass covers to them ; and on Dec. 23rd the funeral of a child, belonging to the Greek Church, took place outside the city walls, whose body was -lowere(linto the grave withouta coffin. As there are no carriage roads in Palestine, with the exception of the one from Jaffa to Jerusalem, being unwilling to undertake long journeys of many miles on horseback, in order to visit the numerous places of inte- rest usually resorted to by strangers, we did not travel any further into the interior of the country ; but, after remaining at Jerusalem for nine weeks and two days, on Feb. 1st, 1882, returned to Jaffa. There, heavy gales of wind and violent storms of rain, which lasted several days, detained us until Feb. 8th; the weather became also unusually cold, and as there were neither stoves nor fireplaces in the rooms of our Hotel, because fires are seldom wanted in Palestine, we suffered greatly from the wintry climate. During this our second visit to Jaffa, Mr. Millier again held meetings for the Germans ; and on Wed- ·nesday, Feb. 8th, the violence of the gales having to some·extent abated, we embarked for Haipha (or Kaifa) on the coast of Palestine, about 70 miles north of Jaffa. Our passage, however, in a small boat, to the Austrian
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 183 steamship "Flora," lying at a considerable distance from the shore, during weather still tempestuous, was most trying and even dangerous; for, after sailing over heavy , breakers, and getting clear of the rocks, our boat was tossed about upon the waves for nearly half an hour; and, after at last we reached the ship, a favourable oppor- tunity of getting a footing on board, to be seized just at the right moment as the boat was lifted upwards by the waves, had to be closely watched for, when one after the other, at the risk of our lives,we had to springon to the steep ladder staircase that led up towards the deck. At 2 o'clock the vessel sailed, and on the evening of that day, at half-past 9, we arrived off Haipha, where, in consequence of the roughness of the sea, and our distance from the shore; it became a question whether we should disembark at all; .but after considering the matter, and praying over it, we resolved _to brave the disagreeables and land. Some time elapsed before the boat, which had been sent ashore with passengers, returned ; but soon after midnight, with less discomfort than had been experienced at J a:lfa, we were rowed safely to the beach. There, some German brethren were waiting our arrival with an open waggon, in which, during torrents of rain, we were conveyed to the Hotel du Mpnt Carmel, a mile and a half distant, where we arrived soon after one o'clock. The little town of Haipha is beautifully situated, on the sea shore, close to the foot of Mount Carmel. During the·twelve days of our visit there, Mr. Miiller preached'
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184 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS 14 times amongst the large colony of Germans, settled at that place, and there the Lord was pleased to grant a particular blessing upon his labours ; for his ministry was the means of bringing about a complete revival amongst the people, who had previously been in a very dead state, spiritually .. On Feb. 13th, accompanied by some German brethreq, we rode on donkeys up Mount Carmel; and, when near its summit, alighted at a Monastery, where the monks ente:i;tained us with cups of black coffee without milk, and glasses of mulberry wine, flavoured with lemon juice. They afterwards showed us into a Church containing (according to tra- dition) the 'cave in which Elijah dwelt, and finally led the way to a lighthouse standing on a rock, that we might see, from that elevated point, the magnificent prospect which extended far and wide. It embraced Mount Tabor in the extreme distance, Brook Kishon, the Valley of the Sea of Tiberias, the Bay and town of Haipha, with the houses of the German colony, the town of Acre, the other side of the Bay, the plain of Esdraelon, and the vast expanse of the Mediterranean, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, which looked as unruffled as a sea of glass, and offered a striking contrast to the troubled waves at Jaffa. Being favoured with bright sunshine, and a beaut~ully clear atmosphere, the whole scene was viewed under parti- cularly favourable circumstances. The place where Elijah slew the false prophets of Baal; and by prayer brought down fire from heaven to consume his sacrifice
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 185 upon the altar, is situated near Haipha ; and after the drought of three years and six months, during which there had been neither rain nor dew, it was upon Mount Carmel be prayed, that Jehovah would again send rain upon the earth. Before our departure from Haipha, we intended to visit Nazareth ; but as there was no carriage road even tolerablygood, and as riding on horseback for nearJy 40 miles would have been objectionable, serious diffi- culties .were in the way. We desired to engage a Russian waggon, and did our utmost to obtain one, but the Brook Kishon, through which our route lay, being swollen from the recent heavy rains, and as the adjacent · country was partially under water, its ~wner refused to let us have it, because the journey was impracticable. Though Haipha posseBBedattractions of its own, there were discomforts also connected with our visit ; for the Hotel accommodation was inferior and uncomfortable. Our apartment for instance had a rough, dusty, uneven stone floor, without any carpet ; and even in cold, rainy weather, as it possessed neither fireplace nor stove, no fire could be had. The room, too, from being scantily furnished, was comfortless in ·appearance ; and though the sleeping accommodation was clean, it was bard and uninviting. The meals, however, were good, and for wholesome, nourishing food we felt most thankful; but let no one visit small towns or villages in the Holy Land, and expect to find that they contain European qomforts. The English clergyman at Nazareth, who had
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186 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS ' resided there for a considerable time, informed us, that throughout the winter he had one constant series of " domestic miseries " to contend with. Through the flat roof of his house the rain leaked in, fuel was scarce and expensive, provisions were dear and not easily obtained, meat was tough and- of inferior quality, and often little besides goats' flesh could be procured. He remarked also that visitors to the Holy Land, who fre- quent the best Hotels at Jaffa and J erusa.lem, and carry their comforts about with them, can form no conception of the real poverty of the country, and of the degraded condition of the native population, as seen in the little towns and villages of the interior. As far as the Hotels at Ha.ipha, however, are concerned, they must be supe- rior to the Inn accommodation in some parts of Asia Mi'flm',which, according to the guide books, is" eucrable." On the afternoon of Feb. 20th we left Ha.ipha, in an open waggon ; and, after alighting on the sea shore, were carried on the shoulders of Arabs across some shallow·water to a boat, which conveyed us to a large Austrian. steamer bound for Beyrout, Syria. At half- past 8 p.m. the vessel sailed; at 7 o'clock ,the next morning we reached our destination, where a most un- pleasant, rough landing in a small boat awaitedus, and were afterwards conducted by a guide to the H0tel de l'Orient, at a short distance only from the landing-place.. There we remained twenty-one days, and besides preaching many times at the Anglo-American Mission Church, and at the Church of the Deaconesses' Institu-
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 187 tion, Beyrout, both in English and in German, Mr. Miiller addressed the students of the Syrian College with Arabic interpretation, spoke to the Theological students for an hour, conducted a service for the Moslem girls at Miss Taylor's school, and held three meetings for Christian workers, in German. At the residence of Mr. Mott, a mansion on the hill, he held a large drawing- room meeting also, which was attended by a number· of the principal residents and visitors of Beyrout, including His Excellency Rustem Pasha, Governor-General of the Lebanon, Pasha Rickards, Mrs. Eldridge, wife of the British Consul-General, the English clergyman and his wife, the Presbyterian minister, some visitors from the Hotels, and many other persons. The climate of Beyrout is delightful. Whilst there, we walked through the beautiful gardens which belong to the Pasha, and took a long drive on the Damascus road, to the foot of the mountains' of Lebanon, the tops · of which were covered with snow. A visit to Damascus, which we had in contemplation, was abandoned, because it would have been necessary to rise at 3 o'clock, in order to travel by an early diligence. The journey of 70 miles, too, over a very rough road would have been very fatiguing; and having before us the prospect of much more travelling, both by land and by water, we decided upon giving up this excursion. Three days before we left Beyrout an exceedingly heavy sea rolled in for many hours upon the shore, making it impossible to undertake a passage from the land to a steamer in a
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188 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS small boat; it seemed probable, therefore, that our departure might be delayed ; but as the wind gradually abated, on March 14th, we sailed for Smyrna, in Asia Minor, on board the Austrian steamship "Jupiter." On the following morning, between 6 and 7 o'clock, the ship was anchored off Cyprus, in the Levant, which, after Sicily and Sardinia, is the largest and most impor- • tant island in the Mediterranean ; and from our cabin• window we had an excellent view of it. Larnaca, its chief port, is built on fl.at ground close to the sea; but high mountains rise behind the town, and a long range of hilly country extends for miles beyond it. Cyprus, of which Nicosia is the capital and seat of Government, is 120 miles in length and about 50 broad. After remaining stationary for some hours, in the afternoon our voyage was continued, and on Thursday, March 16th, we sailed between the islands of the Archi- pelago, where, as the currents are swift. and powerful, the sea became extremely rough ; but towards evening the vessel got into smoother water, and at 10 o'clock we arrived off Rhodes-an island visited by the Apostle Paul, when returning from his third missionary journey. At the expiration of a few hours our voyage was re- sumed, and the next evening we touched at Chios, an island which, in 1881, was fearfully devasted by earth- quakes. There we remained for four hours, and then went on to Smyrna, where on Saturday, March 18th, we arrived at 5 a.m. • Here Mr. Miiller found work immediately, and,,
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OF GEOitGE MULLER. 189 during our stay, preached on the Lord's days twice, and every afternoon or e:vening in the week, but generally with interpretation into Armenian, Turkish, or modem Greek ; and once, when addressing a congregation of Spanish Jews, with translation into Spanish. On the morning of Sunday, April 2nd,_ he preached to an Armenian congregation with Turkish interpretation, and in the afternoon at the Scotch Church, in English. These services were held at different places, including the Hall of the Smyrna Sailors' Rest, the Dutch Chapel, the Deaconesses' Institution, the Presbyterian Church and the Armenian School Room. On Tuesday, April 4th, we rose early; at 8 o'clock started by rail for Ayasaloup, a little village 48 miles from Smyrna, close to the ruins of Ephesus, and on our arrival at half-past 10, took a guide to the Mosque and to the Temple of Diana, which are the principal ruins in that particular locality. The "Mosque bears .traces of having been a large, magnificent building, and contains granite columps from the Temple of Diana. It is now in a dilapidated state; but the view from it (which con- sists of extensive mountain ranges, and a long, wide, vast plain, extending far away for many miles, until lost sight of in the distant sea,) was grand and striking. At no great distance from the Mosque, in a very large hollow, sinking a little below the general level of the · ground, are the ruins of the Templ'e of Diana ; but the devastation there is so complete, that no trace whatever, as to form or outline, exists of the celebrated building
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190 MISSIONARY TOUW;l AND LABOURS which once occupied that site. One stone can scarcely be found upon another, and all that is left of that famous Temple are quantities of stones, either lying in heaps, or scattered about in the greatest confusion, and giving not the slightest idea of what the edifice must have been which stood there many centuries ago. Ephesus, and the whole neighbourhood for miles around, abounds with ruins of Theatres, Temples, Aqueducts, Towers, Tombs, Mosques, etc. There is a building to be seen also, called "Paul's Prison,'' now in a ruinous condition ; and numbers of ancient architectural curiosities, of a remark- able character, invite the inspection of travellers. The solitudeand silenceof the entire locality, however, were mournful and depressing; these numerous relics of de- parted magnificence, all crumbling away to duet, fill the mind with feelings of solemnity ; and the whole scene affords a striking illustration of the vain, unsatisfying cha- racter of all that this poor world calls great and glorious. Happy are they, and they only, who, through faith in Christ, h11veGod Himself for their present and eternal portion ! In the afternoon we retqrned to Smyrna, and on the following day, at 3 p.m., Mr. Millier preached a farewell sermon at the Hall of the "Sailors' Rest," where a large number of persons assembled to hear him. The next day (Thursday, April 6th), in the evening, we left Stnyrna by steamer, reached the entrance of the Dardanelles the following afternoon, crossed the Sea of Marmora during the night, and. at a quarter-past 5 a.m. on Saturday, April 8th, reached Constantinople, where,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 191 at 6 o'clock, we disembarked, and, accompanied by a guide, walked up a high, steep hill, to the Hotel d'Angle- terre at Pera. · On the morning of Sunday, April 9th, Mr. Miiller preached in German at the Chapel of the Scotch Jewish Mission, and in the afternoon 'in English at the Presby- terian Church. On the 11th he spoke in English at the Bible House, and the following evening preached again at the Chapel of the Scotch Jewish Mission. On the 13th he addressed an Armenian congregation, at the Bible House, in English, with Turkish interpretation, when about 450 persons were present. The next day he spoke to the children of an 01:Jlhan Institution connected with the Scotch Mission, and on the 15th held a meeting at the Deaconesses' German Hospital for two hours, intended especiallf for Christian Workers. On Sunday (April 16th) we went to Bebek, a beautiful village on the Bosphorus, five miles distant, where my husband preached morning a'1d afternoon in English at the American Presbyterian Church; and the following morning at Haskiog, near Constantinople, he addressed the children belonging to the school of the London Jewish Missionary Society, the Orphans of a small Institution, and the children of the Presbyterian Jewish Missionary Society. Th~ young people in these three schools, about 700 altogether, were Jews. On April 18th he spoke in French, German and English, to three different departments of Jewish Schoolsbelonging · to the Scotch Jewish Mission; and on the 19th preached
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192 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS in German at the Chapel of this MiBBion,to an assembly consisting principally of Jews, from Lamentations iii. 22-26. On the 20th he had a congregation of 500 Armenians, whom he addressed with Turkish interpreta- tion, and this service was his last at Constantinople. During our stay of twelve days, including a few meetings which have not been specified, he spoke eighteen times altogether. Whilst at Constantinople, we saw the exterior of a few of the principal public buildings in the city, and from the Mosque of San Sophia, ,which stands upon high ground, overlooking the Bosphorus, had a distant view of the Barracks at Scutari, where Florence Nightingale and her helpers so nobly attended the sick, wounded and dying soldiers, who fought during the Crimean War. An ancient Egyptian Obelisk from Cairo, about 3,000 years old, covered with hieroglyphics, was also pointed out. The Bazaars of Constantinople, consisting of lofty stone cloisters or arcades, lighted from the top by domes, are extensive, numerous, and very oriental in appearance. Each trade has its particular quarter, and the various dealers have small shops with rooms behind them for their wares, which are often of a costly and valuable description. On the afternoon of April 14th a religious service of the Dancing Dervishes was held at one of their Convents, within a few minutes' walk of our Hotel. There were 18 performers altogether, who wore brown mantles, and high, round caps made of felt. At a particular signal,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 193 they all fell flat upon their faces ; ·but afterwards rose, and walked a few times round the room, with folded arms, bowing and turning slowly many times. Their mantles were then suddenly cast off, when they appeared in long, full, bell-shaped petticoats and jackets, and, after stretching out their arms to the utmost, began gravely and deliberately to dance and revolve, that is, to spin round and round like a top, for about fifteen or twenty minutes, as rapidly as possible. The sight was instruc- tive, inasmuch as it gave rise to a feeling of the deepest gratitude to God that the wild, religious delusions of these poor Dancing Dervishes were not ours. "Who maketh thee to differ from another, and what hast tlwu that thou didst not receive,"should ever be the language .of our hearts. The Howling Dervishes we did not. see, but heard that they carry on their religious performances at Scutari. On April 18th we took a drive to "Sweet Waters"; on the 19th went by steamer up the Bosphorus, to the entrance of the Black Sea, 20 miles 'from Constantinople ; and on the 20th visited the great Turkish Cemetery, and the English Military Burying Ground at Scutari, in Asia Minor. The former is an enormous grave-yard, where ll;l&DY hundreds of thousands of corpses lie interred. It contains numbers of cypress trees, under which are the graves of the departed Mussulmans,marked by innumer- able high, narrow tombstones, standing upright, and huddled so closely and indiscriminately together, that they form a perfect labyrinth. Most of the graves 0
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194 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS had each two upright stones, partially painted over with bright colours-blue, green, red, or yellow, and bore Turkish epitaphs in characters of gold inscribed upon them. On the top of many of these tombstones, a carved Turkish fez cap and tassel also stood out in bold relief. The Cemetery was not enclosed, and the vast · number of graves it contained presented such a wretched, confused, disorderly appearance, that no · Christian passer-by wonld ever wish his last earthly resting-place to be in a Mahomet.anCemetery, amongst Mussulmans ! After leaving this burial ground, we passed the Bar- racks, used as an English Hospital during the Crimean war, the scene of Miss Nightingale's memorable labours; and then reached a spot from which there was a fine view of the Sea of Marmora, Prince's Islands, and Stam- boul, as the ancient part of Constantinople is called, the Golden Horn, the town of Chalcedon, etc. A short drive further brought us to the British Military Ceme- tery, a beautiful enclosure, planted with trees and shrubs, which was laid out with grass nicely mown, and neat gravel walks. A few flowers also were in bloom, and the whole was kept in perfect order, either by a gardener, or the lodge-keeper at the entrance. P&fliof the ground sloped gradually towards the Sea of Mar- mora, the sun shone brightly upon the Cemetery, and the whole enclosure looked so peaceful, quiet, and even hailow,,d,, compared with the Turkish burial-ground we had just quitted, that the superiority of Christianity to Mahometanism was vividly conspicuous. This Cemetery
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 195 contains the graves of 8,000 of the British officers, soldiers, and sailors, who died of wounds received in the Crimean war ; and the bodies of British residents in Cons!",antinoplemay likewise, by permission, be in- terred therein. Upon the first monument that attracted our attention was the following touching epitaph :-"In memory of Julian Henry Layard, Lieut. 37th N. Hamp- shire Regiment, assistant military attache to the British Embassy at Constantinople, who died of typhoid fever while on duty with the Turkish forces under Suleiman Pasha in the Shipka Pass. Born 15th May, 1850, died Sept. 24th, 1877. This monument has been erected by his parents Col. Frederick and Ida Layard; in testimony of their undying loss. Pitifully behold the sorrows of our hearts, oh! Lord." Further on was a large, hand- some, white marble monument, a column between 20 and 30 feet high, which had angels carved upon it, with folded arms, drooping wings,.and downcast counten- ances ; and on one of i~ four sides was the following inscription:-" A la memoire des ofliciers, des soldats,, et des marine de l'armee Anglaise,,et de la flotte, morts pour la patrie, dans la guerre de la Russia en 1854, 1855, et 1856. Ce monument a ete eleve par la reine Victoria et son peuple, en 1857." After leaving the Cemetery, we took a drive t~ough Scutari before re: turning to the H6tel d' Angleterre. Constantinople, in- cluding Stamboul and the suburbs of Galata, Pera, Tophana and Seutari, contains a population of upwards of a million. o-2
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196 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On April 21st, at 5 p.m., we left for Athens on board the " Minerva" ; arrived at the Pirreus, Greece, at 6 a.m. on the 23rd, after a favourable voyage, and pro- ceeded immediately by rail to Athens, which is only seven miles distant. There, on the evening of that day, Mr. Millier preached at the Chapel of the American Congregational Mission, in English, from Phil. iv. 6, 7, with translation into modern Greek. On the 26th he spoke at the house of an American Baptist minister, with translation also into Greek, and on the following evening, at 8 o'clock, preached at the American Presby- terian MiBBionChapel,-from ·Romans viii: 28, when Dr. Kalapothakos translated for him. On the 28th he addreBBed257 Greek boys at "The Ragged School," in the presence of their teachers and a 'number of gentle- men interested in the Institution ; and, after having spoken to the boys, particularly impress~d upon these gentlemen, privately, the importance of introducing religious instruction into the school. On the morning of the 29th, at one of the prisons in Athens, he ad- dressed 275 male prisoners for half an hour, who were all assembled in a yard, and went afterwards to a second gaol, where he preached the Gospel to 155 other pri- soners. These men, who were very quiet and attentive, listened with much interest _to the instruction given. On Sunday the 30th Mr. Miiller preached at the American Presbyterian Mission Chapel in the morning; and in the evening, at the same place, addreBBedthe largest congregation that had ever assembled in the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 197 Chapel, during the ten years it had been open. On May 1st he spoke there again, and on the 2nd ad- dressed the 700 children belonging to Mrs. Hill's School in German ; upon this occasion, as at all other times, with translation into Greek. Whilst at Athens we visited the Areopagus,or Mars Hill ;-stood on the spot where Paul preached, explored the Acropolis, and saw the ruins of many idol temples, celebrated ancient buildings, etc., some of which are said to be nearly 4,000 years old. We ascended Mount Lycabettus also, and admired the beautiful view ob- tained from it of Athens and the neighbourhood. During the whole of our visit, Dr. Kalapothakos and Mr. Sakkalarios, two missionary brethren, were most kind and attentive to us. On Wednesday, May 3rd, we rose at 4, went by r~il to the Pirreus, and there embarked for Kalamaki, on the Isthmus of Corinth, 40 miles distant. At 11 o'clock we reached our destination, crossed the Isthmus in a car- riage-a drive of seven miles, and at Corinth, the other side of it, went on board a Greek steamer, bound for Brindisi in the south of Italy. At half-past I we sailed from Corinth, and after touching at Corfu on the evening of the 4th, on May 5th, at noon, landed at Brindisi. From this town, viA Foggia and Caserta, we went on direct to Rome, arrived in that city on the 8th of May, and remained there until the 18th. During this our third visit to Rome, Mr. Muller held twelve meetings, when he preached occasionally in
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198 MISSION ARY TOURS AND LABOURS English without translation, but generally with inter- pretation into Italian. On May 12th we attended one of Mrs. Wall's interesting meetings for Italian beggars, held once a week, when Mr. Muller addressed them with translation by Mr. Wall. On May 18th we visited Tivoli, 18 miles from Rome, and on the 19th went on to Florence, our third visit to that city, where my dear husband had five precious, happy meetings. There, it w~s our intention to have remained longer, but, finding it would be desirable that we should return to England a little earlier than usual, on May 25th we left Florence for Turin, arrived at Paris on the 27th, continued our journey to Dover on the 29th, and arrived at Bristol on the afternoon of Tuesday, May 30th, at half-past two.
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OF GBORGE MULLER. 199 NINTH TOUR. EUROPEAN: INCLUDING VISITS TO GERMANY, AUSTRIA, HUNGARY, BOHEMIA, RUSSIA AND RUSSIAN POLAND. From August 8th, 1882, to June 1st, 1883. B EFORE our departure from England to begin another Continental tour; on August 8th, 1882, we went to W eymoutli, where Mr. Miiller preached four times. On the 14th we left for Dover, crossed over by steamer to Calais the next morning, and taking the train for Brussels, which was waiting, reached that city in the afternoon at 5 o'clock. On the 17th we pro- ceeded to Diisseldorf, where my husband held eight German meetings, and on t~e 26th left for Neukirchen, a village about two miles from Mora. There, on Sunday the 27th, he preached in the morning at the Parish Church, and. in the afternoon attended a meeting, held at a large Hall, in connection with the dedication of the Mission House, at which he was the chief speaker His address occupied from 4 till 5 o'clock,but the whole meeting, which was crowded to overflowing,lasted for four hours. Early the following morning he conducted
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200 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS family worship in the large dining-room of Pastor Doll's parsonage ; where, besides its inmates, a congregation from the village had assembled. At 10 o'clock we left for Homberg in a carriage, crossed the Rhine by ferry steamer, and went on by rail to Miilheim an der Ruhr, at which ·place, on the evening of that day, he addressed a large audience of 1,600 persons at the Vereins ·Haus.· On August 29th a religious festival was held at this Vereins Haus, when the building was· crowded in every part of it; and at half-past 2 Mr. Miiller addressed a multitude, numbering from 1,600 to 1,800. In the even- ing at half-past 8 he spoke at the Vereins Haus for the third time, and again addressed, if possible, a more crowded audience than had assembled there in the afternoon. On August 30th, early in the moi:ning, we started for Cologne; proceeded thence by rail to Bonn, and embark- ing on board a steamer for Coblentz, went up the Rhine. After a pleasant voyage, surrounded by peautiful scenery, at half-past 5 we passed the Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, and in a few minutes reached our destination. At Coblentz we remained two nights; on the morning of Sept, :i continued our voyage up the Rhine, and soon after 5 o'clock landed at Biberich, near· Mayence, from which place an open carriage conveyed us to Wiesbaden, five miles distant. There Mr. Miiller held eight German meetings, in- cluding six at the Vereins Haus, an address at the Paulinen Institute of German Deaconesses, and a ser-
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OF GEORGE l'tlULLER. 201 vice on Sunday morning, Sept.' 10th, at the principal German Protestant Church at Wiesbaden, a large building like a Cathedral, where he preached at half-past nine. Wiesbaden is a beautiful spot, abounding in parks, avenues of trees, fountains, flower gardens, etc., and is much resorted to by visitors. It contains 30 different kinds of hot mineral springs, which supply 850 varieties of bathe. On Sept. 11th we left Wiee~en for Mannheim, where my husband preached four times; and on the 16th started for Heidelberg, at which place, on Sunday, Sept. 17th, he preached at the Evangelical Capelle both morning and afternoon. During our stay at Heidelberg, he held four other meetings at the same place of wor- ship, and on the 22nd we went to Munich, in Bavaria, 210 miles from Heidelberg, a very Popieh place, where, though someopenings for service presented themselves, none were of a very extensive character. On Sunday, the 24th, in a Hall, at 3 p.m., Mr. Miiller addressed a company of about 200, including children, teachers, and young persons, and at 5.15 the same afternoon gave an address to a congregation of 200, at the Hall of " The Herberge zur Heimath." On the 27th and 28th he spoke again at this Hail ; preached at the Evangelieche Hauptkirche on the 29th, and on Sunday afternoon, Oct. let, held another meeting at the same church at 3 o'clock. At half-past 5 he preached at the Deacon- eBBes'Institution also, which was hie last service at Munich. -
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202 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On Oct. 2nd we left for Vienna, 272 miles from Munich, where he held a number of meetings and we remained 18 days. He preached repeatedly at Mr. Millard's Hall, at the German Reformed Church, at the Presbyterian Church (in English), at the German Methodist Church, and gave an address also to colpor- teurs and to other Christian workers. As Vienna is full of Popery, service for the Lord there is connected with many difficulties. One regulation, by order of the Government, is, that three days' notice must be given to the police before extra religious meetings can be held; but the work of God is carried on, and prospers to some extent, though, on account of the little religious liberty that exists, it is often greatly hindered. Several years ago the spread of the Gospel in Austria was resolutely opposed by the Government; for the agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society, after being turned out of Vienna with all his Bibles, was con- ducted by a military escort to the frontier, and told that he must leave the country. Though it is not as difficult to hold Protestant services in Austria now, as was for- merly the case, scarcely any real religious liberty is ~ be found in that land. The Presbyterian minister at Vienna said, that, during his comparatively short resi- dence in this city, he had been obliged to appear seven times before the magistrates, to give an account of the services at hie church, and to answer questions put to him. Vienna is a large splendid city on the Danube ;· it
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 203 contains upwards of one million one hundred thoueand inhabitants, and is considered one of the finest capitals of Europe. On Oct. 20th we left and went to Pesth (called also Buda-Pesth), the capital of Hungary, 172 miles from Vienna, where, on Sunday, the 22nd, Mr. Miiller preached at the German Reformed Church in the morn- ing, and at the Baptist Chapel in the evening. During our stay he held seven other meetings also, including a service in English at the Presbyterian Church, a meet- ing for Christian workers at the School House of the Jewish MiBBion,and an address to 50 patients at the Hospital ·of the Kaiserwerth Deaconesses,· when from ·30 to 40 gentlemen and ladies were likewise present. At some of these services, there were many Catholics · amongst the hearers. On Monday, Oct. 30th, early in the _morning, we started for Briinn, Moravia, 229 miles from Pesth, on our way to Prague, but remained there two nights only, and on the 31st walked up to the Spielberg (an ancient fortr888at Briinn, upwards of 1,000 years old, situated on the top of a hill, nearly 900 feet high), intending only to look at th,e view obtained from that elevation ; .but having, very courteously, been invited by the Commander of the garrison to enter the Citadel, we mounted the ramparts, from which the prospect was extensive. Amongst other.places: Austerlitz, 14 miles distant, c~uld be seen, where, on Dec. 2, 1805, Napoleon Buonaparte, whose head-quarters were at Briinn, gained a victory
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204 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS over the Russians and the Austrians. Our guid~s, an officer and a soldier, afterwards conducted us down several flights of steps into the dungeons of the Spiel- berg, and, with a lighted torch, led •the way through those infamous abodes of the cruelty of years gone by. Here, Baron Trenck, General Mack and Silvio Pellico were imprisoned long ago ; the dreadful tortures, for. merly inflicted upon robbers, m~erers and political offenders, as well as upon Protestants, there is reason to believe, were minutely described to us ; and the horrible scenes, which then took place in these places of confine- ment, were specially detailed. One of these dark vaults contained a stone figure, representing a man stretched out at full length upon a rack, with his arms drawn up above his head, to show the manner in which the limbs • of victims used to be gradually torn from their bodies, by means of machinery, which ruptured their blood vessels also, and dislocated their bones. Then, on the walls were iron rings, to which, with outstretched arms, con- demned criminals were fastened in such a way that it was impossible to move ; and there, without food or water, they were left to perish. In another of the dun- geons was a second stone figure, of a man in chains, standing upright, but fettered so cruelly that, if it had been a living human being, the agony occasioned by the bonds would have been excruciating. Some of the pri- soners, not killed by cold and hunger, were partially devoured by rats, whilst others were slowly put to death by atrocities that rivalled even the dreadful punishments
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 205 of the Inquisition. . A wall sm.eared with blood, which has left indelible stains, was also pointed out, together with a trap-door in the roof of these dungeons, through which the condemned were let down into their dreary sepulchres beneath. · · It may seem almost strange to dwell even for a moment upon such horrors; but it should be remembered that the terrible deeds just adverted to were facts. Many of the Lord's people too, in years gone by, have had to pass through fiery trials such as these.. Deep gratitude should therefore fill our own hearts, that we do not live at a time when, and in countries wliere, such outrages· can legally be perpetrated. The Emperor of Austria, Franci~ Joseph I. (as our guides informed us), once caused him- self to be shut up for a few hours in the dungeon where the second figure was, in order that he might be able, practically, to enter into the terrible character of these prisons; and afterwards gave orders, that no condemned criminals should in future be subjected to such punish- ments. On Nov. 1st we left Briinn, and went to Prague, the capital of Bohemia, 135 miles distant, where Mr. Millier preached six times, including an English meeting .on Nov. 3rd, at the Presbyterian Church, and two services on the 6th and 7th, in German, at the American-Bohe- mian Chapel, with translation into the Bohemian lan- guage, by the pastor, Mr. Clark. At most of these meetings, nearly half the hearers were Papists, several of · whom (we heard) were 4eeply impressed by the pre9iChing f I
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206 lllISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS of the Gospel. Information also reached UB, whilst at Prague, that much bleBBingresulted from my husband's ministry at Pesth. Prague has a population of about 163,000, out of· which number 12,000 are Jews, who live in the Juden- stadt. The city contains 50 Churches, 22 Chapels, 17 Convents, 2 Protestant· Churches,· 11 Synagogues, and more than 300 Factories. John HUBSused to preach at St. Gallus Church; but he and his friend Jerome of Prague were eventually burned at Constance, as heretics. After a visit of a few days only, on Wednesday, ~ov. 8th, early in the morning, we left for Dresden, Saxony, viA Bodenbach, on the Bohemian frontier ; travelled through a district called, from its mountai~ous, pic- turesque character, the "Switzerland of Saxony," and reached Dresden in the afternoon. There, in conse- · quence of letters· not having reached the persons for whom they were intended, no meetings could be arranged · for Mr. Miiller until Sunday evening, Nov. 12th, when he preached in English at the Presbyterian Church. On the 14th he gave an address in a drawing-room, at the house of Col. Rose, and on the 15th held a meeting in t.he large saloon of Braun's Hotel. On Nov. 16th we went to Leipsic, where, the follow- ing evening, he spoke at a drawing-room meeting, held at the house of Dr. Konig; and on the 18th ad- dressed about 200 students at a Hall in the city, in the presence of some of their professors, and a few other gentlemen. On the morning of Sunday, the 19th,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 207 . he spoke to 300 children, some students and other persons, at Dr. Konig's Sunday-school; and in the after- noon, at 5 o'clock, preached at the American Chapel, in English. During our short visit to Leipsic, the winter set in with great severity, and snow fell the greater part ·of each day that we remained. This city is the great centre of the German book trade; it has _300booksellers' establishments; representing 4,fjOOfirms, 300 hand and steam-presses,and a Booksellers' Exchange. On Monday, Nov. 20th, we left Leipsicfor Halberstadt, and early in the afternoon walked through the town, a quaint, old-fashionedone,-to the Cathedral School, which is near the spot, formerly occupied by the buildings, where, in his youthful days, my husband went to school We visited the fine old Protestant Cathedral also, con- taining the altar, at which, when a young man, he received the Lord's supper for the first time. , The ne:x:tmorning a carriage conveyed us to Krop- penstiidt, where he was born, twelve miles distant, when he remarked that the road leading to this town looked much the same as it did when he was a boy, ex- cept ~t fruit trees have since been planted on each side of it, instead of poplars. At Kroppenstadt, visited on this occasionfor the first time since his boyhood, Mr. Miiller held two meetings at a large Hall, where, by particular request, he gave an account of his life and labours, and preached the Gospel also, fully and faithfully at the same time, to the inhabitants of his native place,
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208 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS who flocked to hear him in such numbers that the building was crowded to overflowing. These two meetings were very precious ones. Early on the morning of Thursday, Nov. 23rd, we visited the house in which he was born, and then drove to Heimersleben, three miles distant ; where the pleasant dwelling that became his home, after his parents had removed from Kroppenstii.dt, looked much the same, he said, as it did many years ago. On the afternoon of that day we left Heimersleben, and proceeded to Berlin, llO miles distant, where, on Sunday evening, Nov. 26th, he preached at St. Johannes Kirche, Alt Moabit, to a large congregation ; and held meetings at Christus Kirche the three following even- ings. On the 30th Nov. he spoke at the Vereins Haus, and on Dec. 1st preached at tJ;i.eHall of the Moravian Brethren. The afternoon of Sunday, Dec. 3rd, was devoted to a meeting for 100 Sunday School children, at the house of some Christian ladies; and in the evening, at 6, he preached again at St. Johannes Kirche, Alt Moabit. At a drawing-room meeting, held at the house of Mr. Gartner, on Dec. 2nd, he addressed about 80 gentlemen and ladies, and on the 5th preached &.tJesus Kirche in the evening, from John xiv. 13, 14. On the 6th and 8th he held meetings again at this church ; spoke at the Hall of the Moravian Brethren on the 7th; and on Sunday, Dec. 10th, preached at Jesus Kirche in the morning, and at St. Johannes, Alt Moabit, in .the evening. The congregations at all these services were generally large.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 209 Early on the morning of the 11th we, left Berlin, and travelling by rail viA.Schneidemiihl, arrived at Dantzic (a large, fortified town in Northern Prussia, beautifully situated close upon the Baltic, 284:miles from Berlin), in,. the evening at 6.45. Here Mr. Miiller preached twice at the Hall of the Moravian Brethren, four times at the Garrison Church, and once at the Baptist Chapel~ At Dantzic he found two of his old Christian University friends, both of whom, after having been 50 years ministers in the town, had celebrated their Jubilee. The intercourse he had with them was of a very pleasant and profitable character. On Thursday, December 21st, we rose soon after 5; left Dantzic by an early train for Dirschau, and arrived at Krenigsberg in the afternoon at half-past 2. There, on Dec. 21st- and 22nd, Mr. Miiller preached in the evening at a large Hall to upwards of 500 persons ; on the 23rd he gave an addrel!II at the Moravian Church, and on the 25th (Christmas day) spoke again at the same place. On the morning of the 26th (second Christmas day in Germany), at half-past 9, he addressed an immense audience of 3000 people at the Tragheimer Kirche, a large building, which was crowded to the utmost ; and in the afternoon spoke at the Moravian Hall, where hun- dreds could not get in for want of room. On the 21th he preached again at the Tragheimer Kirche ; and on the 28th held a meeting at the same church, which was his closing one at Krenigsberg. On Friday, Dec. 29th, at 12.36 in the middle of the p l
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210 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS day, we left for St. Petersburg, and at half-past 4:reached the Russian 'frontier, where an inspection of passports and the usual Custom House examination of luggage occasioned a detention of two hours. At. half-past 6, however, we obtained a comfortable sleeping compart- ment to ourselves, in a Russian train, heated with warm air, containing two couches, double windows and a little table, in which we paBBedthe night ; and the next morning awoke, to find ourselves travelling through a vast wildemeBBof snow, with which everything around was laden. On the eveni~g of that day (Dec. 30th), at 6 o'clock, we reached St. Petersburg, after a journey of 685 miles from Krenigsberg, and found Colonel Paschkoft' and Princess Lieven at the station, kindly waiting to receive us. The latter, a beloved sister in the Lord, preBSedus immediately to make her house our home, but though we at first declined the invitation,-after paBBing two nights at· an Hotel, as she still urged us to become her guests, we accepted this offer of hospitality, and were entertained at her mansion with the utmost kindness and affection during the whole of our long visit to St. Petersburg. · On Stmday morning, Dec. 31st, Mr. Miiller preached morning and evening in English, at the British and American Chapel, with much help ; and, as long as we remained, was engaged day after day in important service for the Lord. During our stay he preached 16 times at the British and American Chapel, in English ; 8 times in German at the German Reformed Church, 11 times in
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 211 German at the Moravian Church ; held three meetings for the Swedes at the British and American Chapel, with translation into Swedish, attended three pastors' meet- ings, held 5 large drawing-room meetings at Col. Paseh- koff's mansion, conducted two at the residence of Count Korff, and held 35 at the house of Princess Lieven. Besides these services he received visitors as inquirers every day, and had about 40 private interviews of an hour, one hour and a half, or two hours, with three, four, and five · Christian workers at a time, either ·for the purpose of answering questions that had been sent in, or in order to converse with them ab.out different por- tions of the word of God. At an Evangelical Hospital in St. Petersburg, on the afternoon of Feb. 2nd, he gave two addresses also (in German) to the patients, who O®upied four wards; . spoke to about 40 children belonging to a separate Institution under the same roof afterwards ; and addressed 30 deaconesses,who labour amongst the patients and the children. On the evening of Friday, Feb. 9th, at 9 o'clo~k,we were somewhat startled by· a visit from the police, with a summons for my husband to appear early the next morning before their chief officer; when, on presenting himself at the Police Court, he was charged with having held meetings with translation into Russ, f?r which no permission had been given by the Minister of the Interior. Though he was ·treated with great courtesy by this functionary, who shook hands with him and offered a sort of half apology for acting as he did, from that time the services P-2
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1 212 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS at Col. Paschkoft"shouse were stopped ; but Mr. Miiller was allowed to continue his other labours without hindrance. There is, ho'!'ever, so little real religious liberty in Russia, that the spread of the Gospel is lamentably prevented by the absence of it. . During our visit to St. Petersburg, the cold was habitually most severe, and more intense than we ever found it in Canada or in the United States. On March 13th we visited the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, which contains the tombs of the Russian Emperors, and passed the spot where Alexander Il. was murdered by the Nihilists. A visit in a sledge, also, to a little settlement of Laplanders, encamped on the Neva upon the ice, gave some idea of the habits of these poor people. Several Lapps, clothed in skins and furs, with the warm side turned inwards and looking as if sewnup in their thick garments, were standing near a tent. They wear no under-linen, we were told, and never wash themselves nor change their clothes, except when they fall off from dirt and constant use, The interior _ofa Laplander's hut too, upon the ice, presented a miserable, uncomfortable appearance. It consisted of a tent made of skins, with the fur turned inwards, and had an opening at the top, which answered the double purpose of chimney and of window. An iron pot, containing soup, was suspended over a small fire in the centre of this tent, and the floor of ice in the hut was covered by rags ; but all these domestic arrangements were of a most un- inviting character, and made us feel unspeakably thank-
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 213 ful that we were not obliged to reside in such a tent ourselves. · The population of St. Petersburg is about 800,000. "This city is situated on the river Neva., near ita entrance into tne gulf of Finland, 15 miles from Lake Ladoga, where it is divided by islands into four channels called the Great and Little Neva. The dead fl.at,on which the city now stands, was once a morass, occupied by a few fishermen's huts, on the site of which Peter the Great began to build in 1703, by erecting a small hut for himself, ~d some wooden hovels near the Old Fort. The best streets are broad and spacious, and the N evski Prospekt is nearly three miles in length." • The last time Mr. Miiller held a meeting in English at St. Petersburg was at the British and American Chapel, where on Sunday evening, March 11th, he preached a farewell sermon to a large congregation from Prov. iv. 23 : "Keep thine heart 'with all diligence, for out of it are the issues of life." On Tuesday, March 20th, at half-past 1 p.m., we left~for Warsaw, in Russian Poland, and arrived there the following evening at 10 minutes after 8, after a long, fatiguing journey of 700 miles. On the morning of March 25th (Easter Sunday) my husband preached in Ge;rmanat a Baptist Church ; during the week he held four meetings at private houses, and. on the following Sunday (April 1st) preached again at the Baptist Church ; but, as the Russian authorities would not allow him to use the German Reformed Church, our stay at
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214: MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Warsaw was of brief duration only. This city_contains 401,000 inhabitants, 127,500 of whom are Jews. There are 217 Synagogues and 653 Talmudical schools at War- ~w, and throughout the whole _ofPoland, wherethere are more Israelites than in any country in the world, the J ewe number upwards of a million. Having received a kind invitation to the house of Mr. Janatz, a converted Jew, who lives in the country, 14: miles from Warsaw, on Monday morning (April 2nd) we.went by rail to Pruszkow, from which place a carriage and four con".'eyedus over four miles of ploughed fields, and across much marshy ground, to his residence. After remaining there two hours, a meeting was held in the afternoon, at an Orphanage, a mile and a half distant, • where my husband addressed a large company, including _orphans, country people, and the workmen on Mr. Janatz's estate. On the morning of April 4$, at a quarter-past 10, we left our friend's house, returned by carriage to Pruszkow, and from there proceeded by the 11.45 train to Lodz (a large manufacturing town in Poland, the second in size to Warsaw and 100 miles from it), where, after changing trains at Koluszki, we arrived at 4 o'clock. There, during the twelve days that we remained, Mr. Muller preached twelve times at the German Baptist Church, upon each occasion to a most crowded congregation, for evening after evening throughout the week, as late as half-past 8, about 1,200 hearers assembled, who listened to him with the deepest interest. On the morning of April 10th
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OF GltORGE MULLER. 215 he received a note in German, of which the following is a translation:-" I, and almost the whole population of this town, in the name of the Lord Jesus, entreat that you will hav:ethe kindneBBto remain with us till after next Sunday. In the name of many thousands I thank .you for your ministry." As every evening during our stay, this church con- tinued to be crowded to the utmost, and avowed infidels even were moved to tears; as the preaching too was the theme of conversation in the factories, public houses, and in many private families, our.vis~t to Lodz was prolonged until April 15th, on which day we rose at a quarter before 5, and, after a long journey of 325 miles, arrived at Breslau, Silesia, at half-past 10 that night. There, during the three weeks that we remained, having to give himself in earnest to the writing of the new report, and to write numerous letters of importance, my-husband did not engage at all in the public ministry of the Word. On the morning of May 7th we left for Dresden ; arrived there at 5 minutes to 4 in the afternoon, and, in the even- ing went to the Scotch Church, where he preached in English to a very small congregation compared with the multitudes who had thronged the Church at Lodz. On the 8th we proceeded to Hanover; remained there until the 11th, and then, continuing our journey to England, after passing one night at Cologne, a day and a half at Antwerp, and sieeping at Calais, where we arrived at one o'clock in the middle of the night, on the afternoon of May 14th, at half-past one, embarked in the "Calais-
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216 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Douvres," and landed at Dover at 3 o'clock. From there we went on immediately to London, where Mr. Muller spoke seven times at the Mildmay Conference Hall, preached once at Upper Clapton, and once at Kilburn Hall, at the West End of London. On May 26th he held a meeting in German, for a large company of Jews at Whitechapel, and on the 29th we spent a few hours at Belstead, near Ipswich, where he held a large drawing- room meeting at a school for young ladies. This service · was attended also by some of the clergy and many resi- dents from the town and neighbourhood. The meetings just mentioned brought our ninth tour to a close. In the course of his nine missiol).ary journeys, my husband preached or otherwise spoke in public about Two Thousand Four Hundred times, and we travelled more than sixty,nine thousand miles by land and by water altogether. On June 1st we left London at 3 p.m., reached Bristol at 5.36, and, upon our arrival on Ashley Hill, were most heartily welcomed home, as on previous occasions, by a very large company of the Orphan boys and, girls, whose warm, affectionate greetings almost melted us to tears.
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r i OF GEORGE MULLER. 217 TENTH TOUR. SCOTLAND •AND INDIA. }!'romSept. 1th, 1883, to June 5th, 1884. O N Sept. 7th, 1883, Mr. Miiller and I left Bristol for Perth, Scotland, where we arrived on the evening of the next day; and, whilst there, besides speaking five times at the Conference Meetings, he preached at the Free Middle Church, at Free St. Leonarda, and addressed the boys and girls of two Industrial Schools. At Dundee he preached twice at the United Presby- terian Church in Bell Street; gave an address at the Brethren's Room, and spoke twice at the Conference Meetings. On Sept. 20th we left for Edinburgh, and the next day pro~eeded to London, where, at a large Hall in Upper Clapton, he spoke on Sunday morning, Sept. 23rd. On the 26th we left London for Tilbury, near Graves- end, where, embarking on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's Ship "Siam," in the morning at half-past 11, we sailed soon afterwards for Madras. On Oct. 1st we arrived at Gibraltar, where, because the ship remained for six hours, we had a good view of the Rock of Gibraltar, 1,400 feet high, and its
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218 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS fortifications. On the 5th, at 10 a.m., we landed at Valetta, Malta, took a drive to the beautiful Orange and Lemon Gardens of St. Antonio, on the road to Civita Vecchia ; and, continuing our voyage in the evening, on board the "Siam," reached Port Said on the 9th. From Port Said we proceeded to Suez ; but, being detained at Suez by the non-arrival of the "V enetia," did not begin our voyage down the Red Sea. until the 13th. On the 18th, a lit~le before noon, we reached Aden; and sailing on to Colombo, Ceylon, arrived there at 5 on the morning of Oct. 26th, and landed at 10 o'clock. At Colombowe were kindly entertained by Mr. John Ferguson, at his house, Calton Lodge, Cinnamon Gardens ; and in the afternoon Mr. Miiller held a meeting at one of the Mission Schools, and a drawing-room meeting in the evening at Calton Lodge, which was attended by about 40 gentlemen and ladies, including many missionaries. Early the next morning we took a long drive in an open " bandy," through Colombo and its neighbourhood, and saw some of the beautiful tropical vegetation of Ceylon. On this island, it is said that a district of 200 square miles contains about twenty millions of cocoa-:nuttrees ; sugar and date palms also, bread-fruit trees, cinnamon shrubs, plantains, banyans, tea, nutmeg, chocolate and cabbage trees (these last of a most brilliant green), to- gether with a great variety of beautiful creepers, flourish in perfection. Ceylon, which is about the size of Ireland, has more than three millions of inhabitants, and Colombo is now its capital; but Kandy, 73 miles distant, was
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 219 formerly its chief town. Amongst the Christians of . Ceylon (so called), Roman Catholics are by far the most numerous; but Buddhism and Mahometanism are the principal religions of the Island ; and much harm has been done there by extreme Ritualists from England, we were told. At noon on that day (Oct. 27th) we sailed again on board the "Siam," for Madras, and arrived there on the evening of the 29th, after a voyage of 7,388 miles from London, accomplished in 34 days, in the course of which my husband preached once in the saloon of the ship, and held two services on deck. We circu- lated a considerable number of tracts and of little books also amongst the passengers, and had,conversation on religious subjects with some of them. On Oct. 30th, as there was a heavy swell in the sea, we had a rough unpleasant landing, at 10 a.m., in a masulah, or surf boat, and were thankful to set foot safely upon the Madras Pier, from which place a carriage conveyed us to Newington, Teynampett, the residence of Mr.Robert Franck,where we remained until Nov. 21st. Whilst at Madras,Mr. Muller held meetings at the Memorial Hall, in St. Andrew's Kirk at Egmore, at the Baptist Church, in the Evangelical Hall at Blacktown, at the Hall belonging to Doveton College, and at the Congregational Church ; he addressed 400 educated Hindoos in English'also at the Free Church of Scotland, preached in the Methodist Church at Vepery, and at the Wesleyan Church, Broadway, besides conducting several drawing-room meetings. During our stay at Madras, 1':8
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220 :MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS took frequent evening drives to the Beach, where the waves roll in with great force upon the shore, and en- joyed the cool breezes, which, blowing over the ocean, were grateful in that tropical city, to the heat of which we had not yet become accustomed. On the evening of Nov. 21st we left Madras for Ban- galote, 216 milesdistant, accompanied bya native servant· named Abraham, whom we had engaged to travel with us through India, in order that he might wait upon us, look after our luggage, etc. ; and because, besides speaking a little English, and being acquainted with the Hindoostanee, Tamil, and Canarese languages, he could make himself useful to us in many ways. After travel- ling by railway all night, at 7 the next morning· we reached Bangalore, and remained at the house of Colonel Wraughton until Nov. 30th, the day which had been fixed upon for our departure to Colar. Whilst at Ban- galore, Mr. Miiller held meetings at Cubbon Hall, at St. Andrew's National Church of Scotland, at the Wesleyan Church of the Cantonment, at the Methodist Church, St. John's Hill, at the Baptist Chapel, and at the Chapel of the London Missionary Society, besides conducting a service for educated natives at the London Mission Education Hall; meetings which were all well attend~ by Europeans, and by Hindoos also who understood English. Before our _departure from Bangalore, we took early morning drives when the air was cool, and visited Lall Bagh, a plantation beautifully laid out with trees, shrubs
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 221 and flowers; saw the exterior of the Maharajah's Palace ; went to the Fort, formerly 8:palace belonging to Tippoo Sultan, but now in ruins; and entered ~he prison where Sir David Baird was confined. We visited Mysore Hall, the Museum, and the Market likewise. On the morning of Nov. 30th we left Bangalore by railway for Colar Road Station, were driven from there in a palanquin coach, drawn by bullocks, for 1.2miles to the town of Colar, and stayed for one night at the In- stitution for native Orphans, founded by Miss Anstey, where, in the course of the 30 hours we were there, Mr. Miiller held three meetings for the young people, with interpretation into the Canarese language, byan intelligent native convert named Luksman Rao. These Orphans consisted at that time of 148 young men and boys, and of 151 young women and girls, who were being trained i! I for useful occupations, and who, during our visi~ were all actively at work ; but a Jewof the children were in a weak, disfigured state, in consequence of never having recovered from the effects of the dreadful famine of 1877, through which millions of the native population of India died. Whilst at Colar, we had the pleasure of walking through the Institution, of inspecting the Schools, Hos- pital and Dormitories, and sought to encourage Miss Anstey in her most interesting and important work. Late on the evening of Dec. 1st we returned by carriage to Colar Road Station, travelled from there by I. railway in a compartment to ourselves ; and, after a long journey all night, of 272 miles from the tuwn of Colar,
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222 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS . arrived the next morning at Coimbatore, where we stay~ ~t the house of Mr. Ramsey until Dec. 4th. On the evening of the 2nd my husband preached, at a large Hall in the town; on the 3rd, at the Memorial Hal~ he , held a meeting for educated natives who understood Engli~; and we travelled on by railway to Mettapol- lium on Dec. 4th. From there, a " tonga " (or covered carriage on two wheels, drawn by ponies) conveyed us up the Nilgiri Hills for· 21 miles to Coonoor ; and a~ Fernwood, the residence of Mr. Robert Stanes, we re- mained during our stay. At Coonoor and at Ootaca- mund, a beautiful town 12 miles higher up the Nilgiri ;Hills, Mr. Millier held many meetings. On the 15th we took a drive through Ootacamund, and on the 17th returned by carriage to Coonoor. In the course of our visit on the Hills, we enjoyed drives round Tiger Hil~ and in the neighbourhood of Coonoor, and greatly admired ·the picturesque scenery of that beautiful dis- trict. On the morning of Dec. 22nd we left Ooonoor in a '' tonga " ; were driven at full speed down the Ghauts ; and, after returning by railway from Mettapollium. to Coimbatore, my husband preached both on the morning and evening of Sunday Dec. 23rd, at a school room in that town. The next afternoon we set off by railway from Coimbatore, travelled all night, and, arriving at Madras at 8 o'clock on the morning of Christmas-day, went to Newington once more, after a journey of 302 miles from Coimbatore. At ~dras, during this our secondstay in that city, --
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 223 the labours of Mr. Miiller in the ministry of the Word were resumed, and lasted until Jan. 11th, 1884, when, embarking on board the steamship " Teheran," we sailed for Calcutta in the middle of the day. On the 12th, at their request, we were introduced to three of our fellow- passengers, educated Hindoos, namely to N orendronauth Sen, to Shamachurun Bhut, and to Protat Chunder Mozoomdar, with whom, as they understood English well, we conversed for some time. Our voyage, though rough at its commencement, was a delightful one upon the whole, and the brilliant moon-light nights of the tropics at sea, we shall not easily forget. On the morning and evening of Sunday the 13th my husband preached to the passengers and officers of the ship on board the "Teheran," in the first and second saloons of that ship; and on the morning of the 14th we reached the entrance to the Hoogly,. when our progreBBbecame very slow, because the river a'!>oundswith dangerollS shifting quioksands, so that Calcutta, which is 80 miles from its mouth, is considered to be one of the most dangerous ports in the world. At S P.M. we passed the a .. James and Mary" Shoal, where VeBBel of that name was wrecked ; and, after winding slowly up the river, and· anchoring for the night several miles further on, the next morning (Jan. 15th) we landed at Garcf.en Reach, Calcutta, after a voyage of 770 miles from Madras,and were met by Mr. Robinson Souttar, with a carriage, in which we were driven to his residence, 16, Loudon Street, three ~es distant, where we remained until
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22-4 llISSIOXARY TOC"RS ll"D LABOLBS Feb. !th. Whilst in Calcutta, llr. lliiller preached on the afternoon of Jan. 16th, in the centre of Wellington Square, in the open air, to a company of natives and Europeans, with interpretation into the- Bindoostanee language, by Dr. Thoburn, and held meetings aftenr-ards. in the coune of our stay in the city, al l:nion Chapel Hall.al the Methodist Episcopal Church in Dharamtolla Street, at the Lower Cireu1ar Road Baptist Chapel, al the Free Church of Scotland, at the Hall of the Church of England Mission, situat.ed in Old Church llission Row, at the Lall Buaac Bapust Chapel, where Carey, MarshmanandW anlnsed to preach.and whereDr.Judaon. on his way to Rangoon,:Burmah. was baptued;at a Ben- gali Chureh, ~ a native congregation, with interpreta- tion int.o the Bengali 1a.ngoageby Kali Chann Banurji. a converted Hindoo barrister; at the Wesleyan Church, in Sudder Street, on the morning of Sunday, Jan. 27th; at t:' nion Chapel on the evening of that day; at Duff's College he conduct.eel a service for 200 educat.ed nati,es ; preachedat the Congregational Church, Bhowanipore, to a congregation of -400 educat.ed Hindoos, addressed 70 pastors and missionaries on Jan. 30th.for an hour; on Jan. 31st preached in the Congregational Church at Hastings, QDeof the mburbs of Calcutta ; spoke at a large drawing-room meeting for an hour, on Feb. 2nd. to 80 ladies belonging to Zenana Missions; gave an ad- dress on Sunday morning the 3rd, at a Brethren's meet- ing held at the Gospel Hall in BowBuaar, and preached a farewell sermon on the evening of that day at St.
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01!' GEORGE MULLER. 225 Andrew's National Church of Scotland, to the largest of all the congregations he had in Calcutta. Besides all these services, he held a few meetings at private houses also, and on two week evenings at the Methodist Epis- copal Church in Dharamtolla Street, answered in public 31 out of 64 written questions, which had previously b!)8n sent in to him, and only regretted that, for want of time, he was unable. to answer every one of them. In the course of our stay in the city, we took many drives, including a visit on Jan. 16th to the celebrated "Black Hole of Calcutta," which had then recently been ex- cavated from a mass of ruins, but which is now completely covered over by the buildings which have been erected since, and where, on the night of June 18th, 1756, by order of Siraj-ad-daulah, one of the Independent Nawabs of Bengal, a monster of cruelty, a whole garrison of Europeans, consisting of 146 men, were crammed into a small dungeon, only 18 feet square, with ve~ small apertures for light and air. In this miserable dungeon, ever since infamous in history under the name of the "Black Hole of Calcutta," the torments of the prisoners, during a night of the hottest season in the year, were more terrible than can be imagined. They tried by alternate threats and bribes to induce their jailers, either to put an end to their tortures by killing them on the spot, or, to obtain better quarters from the Nawab, but failed entirely in their attempt ; and, in the morning, only 23 wretched figures, almost in the pangs of death, were extricated from a pestilential mass of dead bodies. Q
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226 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS A terrible vengeance, for this wholesale murder, was afterwards inflicted upon the Nawab ; and hie name and memory have been execrated ever since. We went likewise to the Burra and China Bazaars, to a Hindoo Temple on Jan. 17th, and, on succeeding days, visited the Eden Gardens, Fort William, the Meidan, and the beautiful Botanical Gardens, six miles distant, which contain a banyan tree, 1100 feet in circumference, in- cluding a number of fresh trees formed from roots, which, hanging down from its uro111,1iha, had reached, struck into the earth, and sprung up in the form of separate trees. On Jan. 30th, at 4 in the afternoon, a carriage conveyed us, by invitation, to Belvidere, the residence of Mr. Rivers Thompson, Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, a Christian gentleman who had expreesed a particular d~ire to see my husband; and, before taking tea upon the lawn in the gardens, we walked through the bel!,utiful and extensive grounds, by which that mansion was surrounded. On Feb. 4th we set off' by railway, at 4.30 in the afternoon, for Damookdea GM.t, on the banks of the Ganges, where we arrived at 9 in the evening, croesed the river by ferry-steamer to Sara GM.t, and, after con- tinuing our railway journey and travelling all night, on the 5th, at 9 in the morning, reached Siliguri. A tram- I carriage,drawnby a steam engine,conveyed us afterwards slowly up the Himalayan Mountains for fifty-one miles, by a winding, circuitous route, surrounded by scenery f grand and magnificent in the extreme, to Darjeeling, 1 I ,! j
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 227 . where we arrived at half-past_4in the afternoon ; and, gping to the Woodland~ Hotel, remained there until Feb. 11th. Whilst at Darjeeling, where a revival of the Lord's work was greatly desired, Mr. Miiller preached four times at Union Chapel, and once at the Town Hall; and all the meetings were more largely attended than could have been expected, considering that our visit was early in the year, that the cold at a place nearly 8,000 feet above the level of the s~ was severe, and that the seasm,, for that town does not commence until the 'IJe'l"fl hot weather sets in upon the plains below. Whilst at Darjeeling, I called upon a Christian lady, staying at the Sanatorium there, who was one of the passengers in the " Siam," the ship by which we came out to India, who, told me she should never forget the profitable meetings my husband held on board that steamer. In the course of our visit to Darjeeling, we took long walks, and ·some drives in small carriages call8!1jinrickshaws, further up the mountains, and, in this way, were able to visit the Mall, Birch Hill Road, ih:e Observatory Hill, etc. ; we had frequent opportunities too of seeing the vast range of the Himalayan Mountains to advantage, with their tops covered with perpetual snow, and 8077l6 of which, though 45 miles distant, seemed, from their stupendous height, to be in the immediate neighbourhood of Dar- jeeling. The grand appearance of Mount Kinch.in Jnnga, 28,000 feet above the levei of the sea, was par- ticularly striking ; but Mount Everest, 29,000 feet high, said to be the loftiest mountain in the world, was not Q-2 I
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228 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS visible, though, in clear weather, it can be distinctly seen from Mount Senchal, which is a short distance only from Darjeeling. The enormous depth ?f the valleys too in this wonderful region, the lower slopes of which were covered with jungles, and rich tropical vegetation, amongst which tigers and elephants al'8 to be found, especially attracted our attention. At 11 o'clock on the morning of Feb. 11th we left Darjeeling;· went slowly down the mountains by steam tram-carriage to Siliguri ; and, travelling afterwards by railway all night, reached Sar&-GhAton the banks of the Ganges early on the morning of the 12th, crossed the river by ferry-steamer to Damookdea-GhAt, and then returned by railway to Calcutta, where we arrived about 11 o'clock, after a little trip to and from Darjeeling of 732 miles. At half-past 9 on the evening of Feb. 14th we started by railway from that city for Bankipore, where, after travelling all night, as usual, in a compartment of the train occupied only by ourselves, we arrived at 10 on the morning of the next day, but remained for two days only at the Mission House there. From Bankipore, a carriage conveyed us through Patna to Dinapore, a large military station, where we remained until the 20th, at the house of Mrs. Strachan. At Dinapore, Mr. Miiller held four meetings only, at the Baptist Church, at each of which many European officers and soldiers were present. On the 20th we took · our departure, and, travelling by railway viAMogol-Serai, arrived at Benares on the evening of that day, where, at the Mission House Iii.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 229 belonging to the London Missionary Society, we remained with Mr. John Hewlett until February 25th. Late on the evening that we arrived, a large drawing-room meeting was held, where my husband addressed 57 persons, including missionaries and ladies connected with Zenana Missions ; and on the following afternoon, at the London Mission College, he held a service for educated natives, to whom he spoke CromIsaiah liii. 5, 6, with much ~estness and great help from the Lord. He preached twice at the London Mission Church also, once at the Baptist Chapel, and addressed a few Hindoos who came to family prayer every morning at the Mission House, with interpretation into the Hindoostanee lan- guage by Mr. Hewlett. On Feb. 22nd we rose before 5 o'clock, set off in an open carriage at half-past six, aad spent more than three hours.in driving about the city and its suburbs. Benares, which is passionately loved by the two hundred millions of Hindoos in India, because it is the chief of their sacred cities, contains 1,550 Idol Temples, and 250 Mosques, to the latter of which Mahometans resort for prarer, and bears much the saJM relation to Hindooism, that Rome does to Popery. We visited a celebrated School of Philosophy, where numerous Brahmins, pun- dits and their pupils, were at work ; embarked after- wards in a small ~-boat upon the Ganges, and from her deck had a full view of the city, as it extends along the river's banks, with its numerous bathing-ghAts, its burning-ghAt, for consuming the bodies of the dead, iif
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230 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Temples, Mosques, sacred Wells, etc., for which the city is so renowned ; and landed, in order to look into these Wells, or Tanks. We visited the Golden Temple also, dedicated to Shiva, the god of Benares, a large gorgeous, but most hideous building, which was crowded with devotees, where idolatry in its most revolting forms was brought before us ; saw this miserable deity, and the bull upon which, it is said, he rode ; and observed the dead bodies of three human beings floating down the Ganges, upon which crows were perched, pecking at their flesh, because the poor, who cannot afford to pay for the wood which is needed to consume the dead bodies of their relatives, throw them into the river instead of burning them. The Hindoos believe that Benares is reigned over by Shiva, the most famous of the multitudes of gods whom they adore; and the 40 annual magnificent festivals in this city excite such boundless enthusiasm towards the deities in whose honour they are held, that hundreds of thousands of Hindoos from all parts of the vast, tropical country of India, accomplish ·verylong pilgrimages in the burning heat of summer, during the heavy, drenching torrents of the rainy season, and in the cooler months of the year also, to seek for their souls the merit of performing worship in this renowned sacred city. On the evening of Feb. 23rd we took a drive to the Maha Bodh, four miles from Benares, which is a massive brick temple, standing on a base nearly 50 feet square, and rising to a height of 170 feet. It was built by the Emperor Azoka in honour ...........
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 231 of Buddha, B.C. 250, and, being a remarkable structure, is generally visited by s~gere. On the morning or the 25th we rose at 5 o'clock, and, accompanied by Mr. Hewlett, took a drive in an open carriage soon af'ter 6, to the Monkey Temple, where many hundreds of mon- keys, considered sacred by the .Hindoos, were congre- gated, whilst numbers of them were climbing up the neighbouring trees. After this, as it was a grand festi- val day, we entered a boat upon the Ganges, were rowed out into the river, and saw dense crowds of natives assembled upon its banks, bathing in the sacred stream, and performing varioUBreligioUBceremonies before going to their Temples. We then sailed up the Ganges in the boat, visited the Maharajah's Palace on the other Bide of the river, and afterwards returned to the Mission House to breakfast. Before our departure from Benaree, Mrs. Hewlett conducted me, on the afternoon of the 22nd, to visit a school for native girls, belonging to the London Missionary Society, situated in the Compound where the Mission House stands ; and with these girls, most of whom were extremely poor, by means of inter- pretation I conversed. The delight with which they listened to a few particulars about our Orphans, at the Five Houses on Ashley Down, Bristol, was great ; and my brief interview with them was a most interesting one. The next day I went to visit two of the Zenanae of Benares, accompanied by three European ladies, and by the help of their interpretation, conversed with a few
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I • I 232 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS native ladies, who expressed much delight at my visit; but though we were driven to see them in a coveredcar- riage, the rays of the sun were so scorching, for it was in the middle of the day, that another such expedition would scarcely have been safe, unless undertaken in the cool hours of the morning or the evening. On Feb. 25th, at 5 p.m., my husband and I went on by railway from Benares, viAMogul Sarai, to Allahabad, arrived there at 12.30 in the middle of the night, and remained at the Zenana Mission House in that city until March 3rd. Whilst at Allahabad, Mr. Miiller preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, at the Baptist Church, at St. Andrew's Church of Scotland, at Mayo Hall, and held several meetings altogether ; and, in the course of our stay there, we took early morning drives, before breakfast, to Kushroo Bagh, round the Park, and through the native town. From Allahabad, on the even- ing of March 3rd, we went on to Lucknow, where, after travelling by railway all night, we arrived on the morn- ing of the 4th, at half-past 6, and stayed at the American Zenana Mission House there, until March 10th. At Lucknow, my husband held a few meetings only, includ- ing services at the Lall Bagh Methodist Episcopal Church, and at the Wesleyan Church in the Cantonment; and on Sunday morning, March 9th, he attended an early parade service, held in the same building, at half-past 7, where he preached to a congregation composed almost exclu- sively of soldiers. Whilst at Lucknow, a large city with a population of more than 300,000, we took a drive,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 233 early on the morning of March 5th, to the Residency, which was the scene of so many memorable events at the time of, the terrible Indian Mutiny, which broke out 1 - in the year 1857; saw the room where Sir Henry Law- rence received a mortal wound from the bursting Qf a shell ; and, in another building, the apartment ~ which, on July 4th, that year, he died. All the grounds, where the various buildings connected with the Residency stand, and by which they are extensively sunounded, are planted with shrubs and flowers, and, being kept in excel- lent order, looked extremely beautiful The Cemetery belonging to the Residency is a spot of great interest also; for there, numerous monuments to the memory of the heroes who fell during the war, including the tombs of Lawrenqe, Neill, and many others, have been erected. On the morning of the 5th, too, we visited the Old Ch~h of England Cemetery, tQok a drive, on the 6th, to Alum Bagh, four miles from the city, where a monu- mental pillar, bearing a long inscription, has been erected to the memory of Sir Henry Havelock ; on the morning, of the 7th, were driven in an open carriage to the Seeundra Bagh, a spot memorable for the terrible mas- sacre of the mutinous Sepoys, which took place in it at the time that Lucknow was relieved, but which is now a complete wilderness; and visited Wingfield Park, laid out as a beautiful Plantation, the great Emambarah and the Mosque. The Emambarah is a Mahometan Palace, containing a Hall 163 feet long, 53 feet wide, and upwards of 50 feet in height, and is said to be the largest
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234: llrlISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Hall in the world without any support whatever for the ceiling. Early on the morning of the 8th we took a drive to Dilkooaha, where Sir Henry Havelock died of dysentery, and visited the Martiniere also. On the morning of March 10th we rose at 4, and, leaving Luck- now by an early train, travelled to Cawnpore, where we arrived at half-past 8, and stayed at the house of Dr. Condon, Civil Surgeon of that city, until March 15th. On the evening of the 10th Mr. Miiller conducted his first service at Cawnpore in the Theatre ; on the even- ings of the 11th, 12th and 13th, he preached at the Methodist Church, on one of which occasions he spoke particularly on the Second Coming of the Lord, and held a large drawing-room meeting, on the evening of the 14th, at Dr. Condon's house, at which about 80 persons were present. On the morning of the 13th also, at 7 o'clock, he addressed a number of native boys at a large School Room, with interpretation into the Hindustani language by Mr. McGrew, and on the morning of the 14th, at 7 likewise, spoke to 80 girls (Europeans and Eurasians), in a School Room, with much help from the Lord. On March 13th I received a letter from the Rev. John Hewlett, of Benares, with whom we had so recently been staying, from which the following is an extract :-"We have been exceedingly thankful to hear of the large meet- ings which Mr. Miiller has had at Allahabad, and feel ~onfident that, in answer to fervent prayer, great spiritual blessing was the result. The memory of your visit to
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 235. Benares is never likely to be forgotten ; for many con- tinue, from their hearts, to thank God for bringing you here, and for the stimulus they received from Mr. Miiller's services, to a complete surrender and consecra- tion of life to Christ. Words fail me, to express the debt of gratitude 1 owe to your husband, for the new impulse I received from him, to my faith and zeal. May the precious Saviour's richest blessing be with you both; and may God spare Mr. Millier for a number of years, for further apostolic work on 8/1,rlh." In the course of our stay at Cawnpore, we took early morning drives, and on March 11th visited the cele- brated "Memorial Well," into which, at the time of the Indian Mutiny, already referred to, numbers of the dying and the dead were thrown. This well is situated in a beautiful plantation, laid out with trees, shrubs, and :flowerslong since 1857, the year of the Mutiny;· a large circular Monument has been erected over it, on which stands' the figure of an angel, in stone, with folded arms and a most melancholy countenance; and this monument, erected to the memory of the poor, slaughtered victims, just mentioned, bears, in words which have been carved all round it, the following in- scription:-" Sacred to the perpetual memory of a great company of Christian people, chiefly women and children, who, near this spot, were cruelly massacred by the followersof the rebel Nana Dhoondopunt of Bithoor, and cast, the dying ~th the dead, into the Well below, on the 15th day of July, 1857." About 40 yards from
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236 :MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOUBS the well, but in the same pJantation, surrounded by an iron railing, stands a white cross on a pedestal, with the following words inscribed upon the pedestal:- " Upon this spot stood the house of the massacre of July 15th, 1857." We then drove on in the carriage for some distance to the Memorial Church, a beautiful building, entered it, and saw round the Communion Table, ranged in a semi-circular form, 14: long white upright tablets, upon the first of which, on the left, is the following epitaph :-" To the glory of God, and in memory of more than a thousand Christian people, who met their deaths hard by this Church, between the 6th · of June and the 15th of July, 1857, these Tablets have been placed in this Memorial Church of All Souls, Cawnpore, by the Government, N. W. P." The tablets themselves contain the names of the multitude of the slain, including those of Sir Hugh Wheeler, Lady Wheeler, a number of officers, soldiers, ladies, children, and servants,and even of whole familieswho were put to death. The sight was a most affecting one. We took an evening drive, too, for an hour, on March 11th, before my husband preached at the Methodist Church, and visited the "GhAt of the Massacre,"that is, Ofl8 of the massacres connected with this Mutiny, and saw the Temple on the banks of the Ganges, in which the Nana's chief officer sat, when he gave the word of com- mand for the slaughter to commence. Our short stay at Cawnpore having come to a close, at 8 on the morning of March 15th we left the city, and,
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------ OF GEORGE MULLER. 237 travelling by railway, vi& Tundla (an oppressively hot journey of eight hours), arrived at Agra at 4: o'clock, and went in a carriage to the Medical Mission Training Institution, under the direction of Dr. Wilson, two miles from the railway station. At 6, my husband preached in the Hall belonging to this Institution, a service which lasted for an hour and a half; and at 8 o'clock a large party ~f Christian friends assembled to meet us, at the tea--table,in the dining-room of the Institution. On the following morning (Sunday, March 16th) Mr. Miiller preached at Havelock Chapel, at half-past 7 ; on the evening of that day he conducted a s~rvice at Metcalf Hall, where he addressed_a large congregation of atten- tive hearers; and on the mornings of the 17th, 18th and 19th of March, held meetings at the Hall of the Medical Mission Training Institution, where, upon the last occasion, he p~cularly addressed a considerable number of Christian Workers. Whi1:8tat Agra, we rose, as usual, very early, and on the morning of the 17th took a drive, at 7 o'clock, to the Tomb of Mariam Zemani, the Christian wife of~ Akbar Khan, a famous Mahometan Emperor, one of the Moghule, and contemporary of Queen Elizabeth. This Tomb, an immense building, is now used as a Pro- testant Orphanage, where, at the time of our visit, 214 native boys and 200 native girls were educated and provided for. One of the boys, a youth of about 17 years of age, whom we saw, was called "the wolf man," because, some years before hie admission to this
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238 . MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Orphan Institution, he was caught wild in the jungles, where he had been living amongst the wolves. . At that time he went upon "all fours," that is, on his hands and feet, and used to spring at and bite people, like a wild beast. Besides being d~f and dumb, he continued, when we saw him, to be so destitute of intelligence, that nothing could be done with him ·by the missionaries ; who could only take care of him, and prevent bis doing mischief either tJ himself or others, becaqse, if irritated, he became dangeroWI. On the same morning (March 17th) we drove on to the Tomb of Akbar Khan, the Mahometan Emperor already mentioned, at Secundra, and early on the morning of the 18th took a drive to the, magnificent Taj Mahal, which stands in a beautiful garden on the banks of the river Jumna, rather more than a mile to the east of the Fort of Agra, and is celebrated as being the most wonderful building of its kind in the world. The Taj is an immense dome of white marble, inlaid with pre- cious stones. It has been constructed with extraordi- nary art and beauty, is surrounded by many marble turrets, and is the Mausoleum of Mumtaz-i-MahaJ, or, the" Exalted_one of the Palace," who was the favourite wife of the Emperor Shah Juan. In the centre of the building, exactly under the Dome, is the Sepulchre in which her remains and those of her deceased husband were deposited. On the front gateway is the date A.H. 1067 (that is Anno Domini 1648), which marked the completion of the building. The Taj cost between
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 239 two and three millions of pounds sterling, according to English money, and 20,000 men were employed daily, for 22 years, in erecting it. Early on the morning of March 19th we took a drive to the Fort, to the Palace, . and to the Mosque of Agra, and visited the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, a Persi~ Prince, which is of white marble, exquisitely carved, and is considered interesting, as being the only ;,workof the period in which he lived, now in existence. On the morning of March 20th we rose at 4, left Agra by moonlight, by an early train, and, having received an invitation from Sir Charles Aitchison, Lieu- tenant-Governor of the Punjab, to join him at the Camp at Umritzur, travelled vii Tundla · and Ghaziabad to that city. The journey was long, and the heat at Ghaziabad, where a hot wind raising clouds of dust set in, was excessively great; but, after travelling that day and all night, in a compartment of the train reserved exclusively for ourselves, on the following morning, at 6 o'clock, we reached our destination. An open car- riage, sent by Sir C. Aitchison, conveyed us to the Camp, a mile distant from the railway station, which contained about 70 tents, including those belonging to the officers and servants ; and in a large tent, divided oft' into a sitting-room and bed-room,, we soon found our- selves comfortably located. After breakfast, we rested during the remainder of the . morning, had tiffin at 2 o'clock, and at 5 in the afternoon took a drive with Mr. Wade, a clergyman connected with the Church of
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240 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS England Missionary Society, to visit the Alexandra School for native girls. We saw a little also of U mritzur, a city of 130,000 inhabitants, which is remarkable for the Golden Temple which it contains, and is to the Sikhs, what Benares is to the Hindoos. In the evening, at 8 o'clock, we dined with Sir Charles Aitchison in his tent, where the party of 50 persons included several miBBionaries,officers and ladies. On the following morning (March 22nd) we rose at 4, left the Camp, and started at 6 o'clock, with the Lieute.. nant-Governor and his suite, in special saloon carriages attached to the ordinary train, for Lahore, the capital of the Punjab, where we arrived at 8. From the railway station, a large waggonette, drawn by four camels, with riders on them in scarlet livery, conveyed Sir C. Aitchison and ourselves to Government House, and there my h~- band and I remained in large, cool apartments, prepared for our reception, until March 31st. In the course of our stay at Lahore, Mr. Miiller held meetings nearly every evening, including services at the Union Church, at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association, at the Rang Mahal (a service for educated natives), at the Railway Theatre, and at Lawrence Hall The meet- ing for educated natives, at the Rang Mahal, was crowded to overflowing, and '\V&B a most interesting and important service. The following extract from a letter written by a Christian gentleman, and received l>Ymy husband just before our· departure from Lahore, will show how much
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 24:1 his labours in that city were appreciated:-" I cannot express to you how much we enjoyed your Sunday and Monday evening sermons.. On Sunday evening your sermon strengthened my faith exceedingly ; and I shall never, neverforget, all you told us regarding prayer. I m:ean now topf!J1'severe in prayer, and to u:pectanswers from God. Our heartfelt gratitude is due to you, for coming to minister to us from so great a distance. May God bless you, and give you physical and mental strength!" On the evening of March 25th Miss Aitchison and I, accompanied by Captain Lambert, rode through Lahore upon an elephant in a " howdah," containing seats con- structed to carry four persons, which was considered the best way of seeing the city to advantage. The huge ani-• mal, with a mahout, or driver, riding on his neck, knelt for us to mount him; but even then, a short ladder was neceBSal'Y ,for us to get into the " howdah." We visited the Mosque of W~ Khan,-the Jama Musjid, Rungit Singh's Mausoleum, and other objects usu.ally consi- dered interesting by strangers. On the morning of the 28th Sir Charles Aitchison kindly took my husband and me for an early drive in an open carriage to the gaol at Lahore, which contained 1,600 prisoners. Upon enter- ing the building we found them at work, manufacturing carpets of a superior description, printing, etc., etc. The sight was an interesting but a· melanc~oly one, and it was surprising, on inquiry, to hear that those poor crimi- nals ·fl6M' receive instruction in tLe truths of Chris- R
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242 MISSIONARY TOURS \ AND LABOURS tia.nity, because such instruction is not permitted by the British Government; and, as missionaries are not allowed to labour amongst them, they never hear the glad tidings of salvation. Surely it is. a solemn thing for a Christian Government (so called)· to act like this. Our visit to Lahore having come to an _-end,on March 31st we len Government House in the camel carriage, and at 6.20 in the evening started by railway for Delhi, where, after travelling all night in a sleeping compart- ment to ourselves, we arrived at 3 on the afternoon of April 1st. During the latter part of our journey, be- tween Ghaziabad and Delhi, a hot, parching, high wind prevailed, which raised clouds of dust, and the heat oo- casionally was overpowering. Upon our arrival at Delhi, we intended to go to an hotel ; but, on alighting from the train at the station, received from a native servant, sent to meet us, a note from Mr. Tremlett, formerly Judge of the High Court of Delhi, but then Commis- sioner, which contained a kind invitation to take up our abode at Ludlaw Castle, his residence, about· a mile distant from the railway station. This invitation we accepted, were driven off immediately in a carriage to the Castle, and remained there until April 4th ; but, during our short stay at Delhi, Mr. Millier had time to hold one meeting only, and that was for soldiers at the Barracks, on the evening of the 2nd, to whom be gave an important address, and with whom he had a happy meeting. On the 3rd, h~ving been invited to take ti:ffin at the house of a clergyman at 2 o'clock, we had an ex-
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r OF GEORGE MULLER. 243 ceedingly hot drive there in the middle of the day, when this clergyman (Mr. Griffiths) introduced some mission- aries from Cambridge to us, who desired to become ac- quainted with my husband, and with them we had a long and interesting conversation. As Delhi was the ancient capital of India, and is full of the ruins of various grand buildings which formerly belonged to the Moghul Emperors and Kings of that country, it is considered, in this respect, 'themost re- markable and interesting city in the whole of that vast empire. Delhi, too, has many associations connected with the Indian Mutiny : the siege of Delhi will never be forgotten, nor Brigadier-General Nicholson, without whom, it was said, "Delhi could not have fallen." He was mortally wounded during the siege, shot through the body, on Sept. 14th, 1857, whilst attacking the Lahore Gate and Bastion ; died on Sept. 23rd, and was buried in the new Cemetery, just outside the Cashmere Gate, with full military honours. On April 2nd we took an early morning drive to the Fort, to the Audience Hall, and to the Palace, and sa'w oth:er ruins of departed grandeur and magnificence. The walls and ceilings of the vast halls and apartments of the Palace were most elaborately decorated ; and the Pearl Mosque is consi- dered to be a perfect gem of architectural beauty. The great Mosque was afterwards visited by us; and, mount- ing to its corner towers, we had a magnificent pano- ramic view of the whole of Delhi and its surrounding neighbourhood for many miles. On April 3rd we took R-2
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244 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS ' an early morning drive also, and visited the Mausoleum of the Emperor Humayoom, six miles distant from the city, which is a large, remarkable edifice like a Palace; it contains a great number of royal Tombs, and is noted for the l>eautiful marble trellis work, exquisitely carved, · in a numberless variety of patterns, with which the ·,,' entire structure abounds. From the top , of this Mauso- leum, to which we ascended, at a great height from the ground, a most extensive district, embracing a vast area of many miles, lay spread out before us, completely · covered with ruins of Temples, Mosques, Palaces, Tombs, Forts, Towers, castellated battlements, etc., etc. ; and, as we gazed upon the scene below, it looked like an im- mense city of the dead. All was as deserted, as silent, and as desolate, as were the cities of Pompeii and Her- culaneum, near Naples, Italy, on the 15th and 21st April, 1879, when we visited them; not a single build- ing fit for a human habitation oould be seen, and we were forcibly reminded, that " All flesh is as grass, and all the glory of man as the flower of grass. The grass withereth, and the flower thei:eof falleth away : but the word of the Lord endureth for ever." At 3.20, on the afternoon of April 4th, we left Delhi; and, after travelling all night in a sleeping compartment of the train reserved exclu!rively for ourselves, reached Ajmere at noon the next day, where, at the bungalow of Dr. Husband, we wei:e entertained until April the 8th. At Ajmere Mr. Miiller held two meetings only, namely one at the Railway Institute, on Sunday evening, the 6th,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 24:IS and the other on the following evening at the Presby- terian Mission Church ; he had a few interviews also with Christian friends. On the evening of April 5th we took a drive through Ajmere, a beautiful town in the midst of a neighbourhood almost as mountainous and as picturesque as Switzerland is; but, as our stay there was short, we were unable to undertake any excursions into the country~ and so could see nothing more of that de- lightful disttjct. On the morning of April 8th we left Ajmere by the 8.20 train, accompanied, as always during this Indian Tour, by our servant, Abraham; and, after iiravelling the whole of that day and all night, for 26 hours in eucces- eion, arrived the next morning, at half-past 10, at Mhow in Central India, a large military Cantonment, where a carriage conveyed us from the station to the bungalow of General Sir Robert Phayre; and there we remained until April 14th. On the evening of the day we arrived (April 9th), and on the evening of the next day, Mr. Miiller held meetings in the open air, by the. brilliant light of the full moon, in the compound which sur- rounded the bungalow, where, upon each occasion, many officers and soldiers formed a portion of the congrega- tion. On April 11th he preached in the evening at the Presbyterian Church, on the morning of Easter Sunday, the 13th, he conducted an early parade service in the- Garrison Church at 7 o'clock, and preached at the Free Church of Scotland on the evening of that day. In the course of our short stay at Mhow, we took two -
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246 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS evening drives with the General ; on the evening of April 14th my husband preached a farewell sermon at the Methodist Episcopal Church at 7 o'clock, and that night, after returning to the bungalow, and taking leave of 'Sir Robert Phayre and of his son, Captain Phayre, . we took our departure from Mbow by the 11 o'clock train ; and, after travelling all night, arrived at Khandwa the next morning at half-past 7. At Khandwa, in order to avoid continuing our journey by day during the ex- cessive heat, we spent nine hours at a DAk Bungalow, that is, a kind of poor hotel, but the best in the place, which, to some extent, screened us from the fiery wind that was blowing outside, like blasts from a hot furnace; but at 5.20 in the evening our journey was resumed; and, after travelling all night to Calli,.n, where we arrived the next morning at half-past 7, and 'going on further by railway from that town, after ascending the Ghauts, and passing through fine mountain scenery, at half-past 3 on the afternoon of that day (April 16th), we reached Poona, and went in a carriage to the Mission House there, two miles from the, railway station, _where we remained with Mr. Beaumont until April 21st.' At Poona my husband held five meetings only, namely, on the evening of April 17th, at the Free Church of Scotland ; at the Baptist Chapel on the evening of the 18th ; at the Methodist Episcopal Church on Sunday m~rning the 20th, at half-past 7 ; at the Free Church of Scotland on the evening of that day, and at the Metho- dis_tEpisoopal Church on the evening of the 21st; when
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 247 he addressed the members of the Young Men's Christian Association, and many other persons, at 8 o'clock, with great help from the Lord. In the course of our short stay at Poona, though the heat was most exhausting, and sufficient to depriv~ him of his usual energy and power, there was abundant evidence that his ministry in that city was greatly blessed, both to believers and to the unconverted persons who heard him preach. On April the 21st, before our departure from Poona, we rose at half-past 15,and took an early drive to Par.- buttee, a high hill, four miles distant from the city; and, alighting from the carriage at the bottom of the hill, walked up to the top of it. From the summit of this hill there was a magnificent prospect, embracing a vast cir- cumference of many miles, extending far and wide before us. Upon the top of this hill an idol Temple stands, containing a represen~tion of the god Shiva, and other heathen abominations, about which our guide, an intel- ligent Hindoo, who spoke English tolerably well, was going to give us all the information he possessed. I re- marked to him, therefore, with considerable emphasis : " We do not believe in Shiva in the least,but in the true and living God, who made heaven and earth, and who sent His Son to die for poor lost sinners, as revealed in the Holy Scriptures." " I, too~ believe in a supreme Being," said he. " Did· you ever hear of Jesus Christ 1" I asked. "Never," was the reply. "Can you not then ask some kind missionary to teacli you about J611U,8, for without faith in Him you will never get to heaven." "I
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-;:. ·i:· .• · ,•' . ~' ~· .' . ~ : . ; 248 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS must try and learn about Him," said he, "I must trg, I must trg." When this brief conversation was over, we descended the hill, returned in the carriage to Poona.; and, after taking a walk in the Bund Gardens, went back to breakfast at the Mission House. At 8 o'clock on the evening of that day (April 21st), as already men- tioned, Mr. Miiller held a meeting at the Methodist Epis- copal Church, where he preached a farewell sermon; the same night we started by the 11 o'clock train for :Qombay,arrived in that city at 7 the next .morning,and, going to the house of Captain Hutchinson, remained there until May the 2nd. In the course of our stay at Bombay, my husband preached at the Free Church of Scotland on the even- ing of April 23rd ; at the Baptist Chapel, Byculla, on the evening of the 24:th; at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association on the 25th, and on the 26th he held a drawing-room meeting in the evening, for more than 4:0 Christian Workers, at the house of Cap- tain Hutchinson. On the morning of Sunday the 27th, he preached at the National Church of Scotland, and at the Methodist Episcopal Church, Grant Road, on the evening of that day. On the 29th he addressed 150 · educated natives at the Free Church of Scotland Institu- tion, preached at the Methodist Episcopal Church, Grant Road, on the evening of the 30th, and held an evening drawing:room meeting on May the 1st, at Gergoum, where, at the house of a missionary of the Church of England, he addressed a large party of Christian _J
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 249 Workers, with much earnestness and great help from the Lord. This was his last service, in India, in connection with our tenth long missionary Tour. On May let I received the following letter from the Rev. John Fordyce of Simla, well known in India as a devoted servant of Christ, which it may be suitable to introduce into this portion of my narrative :-" Dear Mrs. Miiller, In a few days you will leave India, and I wish to write a few words of prayerful farewell to you, and to your dear and honoured husband, who is loved by· thousands in India, and I believe by hundreds of thousands in other lands. I have only had a few glimpses of you since you left Lahore ; . but I hope to learn more by and bye. My prayer is, that the precious and rich seed sown in India, by Mr. Miiller, may bear much fruit. Some of his words in Calcutta are like livi~g seeds in my own soul up here. With my love from the Himalayas to you both, Believe me, Yours very sincerely, JOHN FORDYCE. Simla, April 26th, 1884." Whilst at Bombay, as the climate was oppreBBively hot, we took evening drives to Back Bay, Apollo-bonder, Breech-Candy, Scandal Point, and to Colaba Cemetery. On April 28th we crossed the Harbour in a small steamer, and visited the Caves of Elephant&, which are· large and remarkable Hindoo Caverns, containing idols which the Brahmins worship; and on the afternoon of May let took a drive to the Parsee Cemetery, situated in a beautiful Plantation on MalabarHill There we saw the "Towers of Silence," five in number, where the,
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250 ll(ISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS dead bodies of Parsees, instead of being interred in graves, are tom to pieces, and devoured by vultures, crows, kites, and hawks ; and we observed numbers of those birds of prey perched upon the Towers, where, flapping their wings in an excited manner, they were evidently on the look-out for other funerals as they came up the hill, in order that they might pounce down upon the corpses, and take their fill again of this dis- gusting prey. Strangers are not allowed to enter these " Towers of Silence ;" but a model was shown to us of one of them. They are high and circular, and, being without roofs, are open at the top ; and, as the dead bodies of the Parsees are laid flat upon the ground, without coffins,inside these buildings, the birds, which per~h upon the walls of each Tower, can easily fly . down upon the corpses and devour them as quickly as pOBBible. Before bringing this account of our Indian Tour to a I close, I desire to make some remarks with reference to the various false religions that abound in India, in Africa, .! I in China, in Japan, and in other countries where heathen darkness reigns. Thongh from our earliest days, we had heard and read about missionariesand mission work, never,until we visited Benares, did we to some extent take in the awful condition in which the heathen of India, llll:d of many other idolatrous lands, are living, and dying also. Millions upon millions of our fellow- creatures, plunged in the deepest darkness, ·are, from their birth to their death, a prey to the wildest delusions,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 251 and most devoutly believethe thousands of lies which the Devil palms off upon them. The various forms of Satanic religion which prevail in those countries, show how true it is, that " the whole world lieth in the evil one." In India, in China, and in Japan, there are more than 500 millions of Buddhists, to say nothing of Mahometans, and the hundreds of millions belonging to the various false religions besides Buddhism, which abound upon the earth. In connection with this B11bject too, we cannot fail to remember how small the number of Chnslians is, compared with the hundreds of millions of heathen in existence ; and, as out of these Christians (so called) vast numbers, and by far the greater propor- tion of them, a.TenominalChristians only, true believers, real disciples. of the Lord JeBUBChrist, become an ex- ceedingly "little flock," in comparison with the enor- mous multitudes, who either have never heard of Christ at all, or, who have no savingknowledge of Him whatever. When we consider, too, that, according to prophetic Scrip- ture, the time is fast hastening on, when Christen!).om, as represented by the ten kingdoms of the Roman earth, yet to be revived and developed, will completely cast off and reject the true and living God altogether ; will receive and worship the Antichrist, or " man of sin " (see 2nd Thessalonians, chapter II, and Revelation XIII), and at last will far exceed in abominable wickedness even the heathen themselves, we cannot but exclaim : "What an awful condition the whole world is in !" The following extract from an article, entitled " Re-
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252 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS ligion," in Chambers' "Encyclopredia," was copied out and sent to us by a missionary of Benares in the month of April, 1884, and was received by us, just before we left India for London, on the 2nd May, in that year ; but as this article was written several years, probably, befure April, 1884, it is almost certainthat, in the present ·year (1889), many thousands, and perhaps even millions, more of human beings have embraced ea,ch of the false reli- .one mentioned in the list, which the extract contains, than have been mentioned therein. It has recently been estimated, I believe, that at the present time (1889) the whole earth contains about 1400 millions of inhabitants, and, out of these 1400 millions of human beings, it is probable that not 20 millions, even, are really converted persons-true, decided believers in the Lord Jesus Christ. The extract to which I have referred is as follows : '' The religions of the world may be summarised in round numbers thus :- Jews .... 8,000,000 Roman Catholics 182,422,532 Greek Church 74,624,300 Protestants 95,755,534 Mahometans . 120,000,000 :Brahminical Hindoos 120,000,000 Parsees . . . . 1,000,000 Buddhists . . . . 483,000,000 To which may be added the Fetishism of the aboriginal tribes of Africa, America, Polynesia, etc. . . . . . . . . 189,000,000"
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r OF GEORGE MULLER. 253 . If this list be tolerably correct, what a fearful state of darkness and delusion hundreds of millions of the inhabitants of the whole earth are in now !-and that the whole world will not be converted during the present dispensation, as some people fondly imagine will be the case, is not only cerlam from the Scriptures, beyond a doubt, but is manifest from the wretched state of wickedness in which, with comparatively few exceptions, the heathen world and Christendom have alWI/JBbeen ; in which they are now ; and in which they will continue; · because, though multitudes may yet be converted before the Lord Jes'!18comes, the word of God plainly declares, that no improvement of a wwersal cooracte:r is to be expected bejO'f'e that event, but that spiritual darkness will increase, and that iniquity will abound more and more, as the present dispensation draws nearer and nearer to its close. There will be no Millenium until J68'U,8comes; but, at His appearing,a glorious period will be ushered in, when "the knowledge of the Lord shall cover the earth as the waters cover thesea." "Oh, what a sufH'isewill that Advent be!" But until that blessed event shall come, and 'beco.wethis poor earth is in its present deplorable condition of spiritual darkness and of death, true believers should be most earnest and unceasing in their efforts to win souls for Christ, and should seek to become the instruments, in His hand, of gathering out His own elect, before the end of the present dispensation comes. Our long and interesting Tour through India, had the effect of deepening intensely
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254 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS our interest in Missions, and in the miBBionarylabours of brethren and sisters in that country, and in other lands where idolatry and heathen darkness reign ; for, coming personally into contact even with a few only of the various false religions,- that prevail upon the earth, awakens a far more lively sense of their awful character, than merely hearing or reading about them ever can accomplish. True believers in Christ, therefore, are asked to pray earnestly that God will have mercy upon India, and the many other countries which are in dark- neBBand in the shadow of death, and that, while the Lord Jesus tarries, He will gather out yet, from amongst them, vast multitudes for His name. The deep sym- pathy and earnest prayers of Christians, too, are continu- ally needed for the Lord's missionary servants in foreign lands, who have numberleBBdifficulties and discourage- ments to contend with, and who often find, that labouring amongst the heathen has a· deadening effect upon their own souls. Should not brethren and sisters in the Lord, too, in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, in the United States of America, etc., give themselves most earnestly to prayer, in order to ascertain whether the Lord would not have them to go abroad, and to labour as miBBionariesin foreign lands. There are many hundreds of true Christians who have l;>eenliving nearly all theirlwes in one place ; and many pastors of Churches, in the countries just mentioned, and elsewhere, have preached over and over again, for 30, 40, and even for 50 years, in the same cities, to congregations who have _J
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 255 heard them many hundreds and even thousands of times. My husband has been praying daily for a 'IJfJl'Ylong time, that the Lord Jesus will soon accomplish the number of His elect, and hasten his return ; he prays likewise that all true believers may do _theirpwrt,to 'bring ab(J'IJ,t that glorious event, and that the preaching of the gospel, all over the world, may take place, amongst the heathen who have never heard His name. Instead of remaining, therefore, year after year, at ease and in comfort at their own homes, ought not real Christians to rousethemselves 1 Should they not be willing to go abroad, to endure the trials and the hardships which are often connected with the labours of missionaries in distant countries, and contend with the difficulty of learning foreign languages which they will have to overcome 1 and should not believers, who are unable to go abroad themselves, give as much moneyas they can spare, towards the support of Missions, especially of those in foreign lands, because there are true, devoted servants of Christ in abundance, . , in Great Britain and Ireland, and in the United States of America, for instance, whilst there are comparatively but Jewof them in countries where idolatry and hea- thenism reign 1 That much has already been done, and is still being accomplished, in the way of sending out brethren and sisters from the countries just mentioned, I am quite aware ; but ought not great numbers m(Yf'e,of experienced, instructed, godly persons, to follow the example of those who have thus gone forth 1 I think, sometimes, that many people, who are true disciples of
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256 MISSIONARY TQURS AND LABOURS the Lord Jesus Christ, do not half gwecreditto the great truths which they professto hold ; for, if we really believe that an eternal' ~. or an eternal hell, is awaiting every human being under heaven ; that the "New ", or the "Lake of fire and '/n-imstone", Jeru,soJ,e;m will be the portion of every individual' upon the face of the earth, and that .throughout etemi,ty,how can we be as careless about, and as indifferent to, the spiritual welfare of the numerous persons with whom day after day we come into contact, as we so often are Y When we re- m6Jllber, too, that those persons onlywill be saved, whose sins have been washed away in the blood of Christ, who, . as poor lost sinners in themselves, trust in Him, and in His blood and righteousness alone,for pardon, acceptance and salvation, and who thus have the Holy Spirit of God dwelling in their hearts, how earnestly ought we !I to warn unbelievers of the exceeding great danger they ,, are in, and wge them, " to flee from the wrath to come." That God may graciously be pleased to deliver us, as believers, from this most culpable 1).alf-heartedness and unconcern; that we may seek to walk MW, as in the light of that day-even the great day of Christ's appear- !1 ing-is my daily fervent prayer. i · Our long Tour through India having come to a close, on the morning of May 2nd, at 11 o'clock, a steam-launch conveyed us from Mazagon-bunder to the Peninsular and Oriental Steam ·ship, "Indus," accompanied by our servant Abraham; but on board that ship he took a re- spectful leave of us, and return~ on sh~re, intending to
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 257 leave Bombay immediately for Madras. At noon we left the harbour, and sailed for Aden. On the morning of Sunday, May 4th, my husband preached in the saloon to the passengers and officers of the ship, and at 8, on the evening of the 13th, we landed at Suez. From that town we travelled by railway all night to Alexandria; arrived there at half-past 8 on the morning of the next day, and, embarking on board another Peninsular and Oriental Steamship, sailed J't 11 for Brindisi in the South of Italy, where, after a pleasant voyage of 825 miles, across the Mediterranean, we landed at 8 o'clock, on the morn- ing of May 17th. At noon that day, we started by special mail train, in a Pullman's carriage, for Bologna; arrived there the next morning at half-past 4 ; and, find- ing an express train waiting for the passengers, engaged a compartment. to ourselves, in which we travelled on at once, viA.Turin, the Mont Cenis Tunnel, Dijon and Paris, to Calais. After crossing the Straits of Dover on board the "Calais-Douvres," we proceeded in a train, that was waiting, to London direct ; and, at 6 on the evening of May 19th, arrived in that city, after a rapid but expen- sive journey from Brindisi of 1483 miles. In London we remained until June 5th. On the afternoon of that day we left the Paddington Station by an express train, and, reaching Bristol in two hours and a half, went im- mediately to New Orphan House No. 3,Ashley D~wn, where we arrived at 6 o'clock,. after a Tour of 20,475 miles, by land and by sea, since, on Sept. 7th, 1883, we left Bristol. s
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258 MISSIONARY TOURS ANO LABOURS ELEVENTH TOUR. ENGLAND AND. SOUTH WALE& From August 18th to October2nd, 1884. H AYING decided upon visiting a few places in Eng- land and in South Wales, to which we had never been, on Aug. 18th, 1884, Mr. Miiller and I left Bristol for Leominster, where we stayed at an Hotel until the 23rd; went on, upon that day, to Hereford, and from there proceeded on the 30th, via Newport and Cardiff, to Tenby, where we remained at the house of a friend until Sept. 6th. Leaving Tenby on that day, we went on to Manor- bier, :returned to Tenby on the 8th, and, during this our second visit to that town, paid short visits to Begelly, Saundersfoot and Coldinn. On Sept. 16th we went on from Tenby to Haverfordwest, stayed at the Collegethere ,J' ' until the 18th, and on that day went to Milford Haven, i: where we passed one night at the Lord Nelson Hotel. From Milford Haven, a waggonette conveyed us, on Sept. 19th, to Nayland (or New Milford), where we remained, at the South Wales Hotel, until the morning of the next day, when, crossing the Haven by steam ferry- boat, and going to Pembroke Dock, we remained there in lodgings until Oct. 2nd. Whilst at Leominster, my husband spoke occasionally
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 259 at the Conference Meetings held there ; at Hereford, at Tenby, Manorbier, Begelly, Saundersfoot, Coldinn, Haverfordwest, MiHord Haven, Nayland (or New Mil- ford), Pembroke Dock, and at Pembroke, he held meet- ings, and, at someof the towns just mentioned, preached ma;nytimes; but, for the sake of brevity, and as our pre- . vious Tours were so long, passing reference only is made to these services. Our Tour through South Wales would have been con- tinued; we should have visited Swansea, Cardiff, New- port, and many other towns in that part of the country; but, whilst at Pembroke Dock, I was taken ill with an attack of erysipelas, brought on through sitting in ~owded meetings at night, where the atmosphere hadan injurious effect upon me, because it was polluted by numbers of gas lights, and by the breath of the crowds of persons who attended my husband's meetings, as the Chapels, where they were held, were not sufficiently ventilated. Going out immediately after these services were over too, into the cold air, brought on erysipelas, and the physician, whom Mr. Millier called in to pre- scribe for me, strongly advised o~ returning at once to Bristol 0n the morning of Oct. 2nd, therefore, we left ~embroke Dock, and, returning by railway to Ashley Down, Bristol, arrived at the New Orphan House No. 3, on the afternoon of that day, after a short journey of 150 miles from Pembroke. s-2
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260 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS TWELFTH TOUR.· Frum May 16th to July 1st, 1885. I N consequence of having decided upon taking another Home Tour ,on May 16th, 1885, Mr.Miiller and I again left Bristol, engaged apartments at a house in Welling- ton, Shropshire, but went afterwards to the Admaston Spa Hotel, near that town, and whilst at Wellington, including servicii&at the Old Hall, he held nine meetings altogether, which were attended by large. congregations of attentive hearers. It was our intention to have gone on afterwards to Dublin, in order that he might labour for the Lord a second time in that city, and we purposed afterwards to visit Londonderry, Belfast, and other towns in the North of Ireland, because he desired to preach also in them ; but, as my beloved husband became extremely unwell, through a violent cold, caught whilst he was standing in a draught, immediately after he had been preaching at Wellington, I strongly advised him to give up his labours for some time, and proposed a visit to the Isle of Wight, because I earnestly desired that he might rest, and have · every facility for recruiting his health, instead of going to Ireland, as we had thought of doing. Accordingly, on June 10th, we went to Ryde,
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r OF GEORGE MULLER. 261 stayed there at the Esplanade Hotel until the 17th, and, going to Sandown on that day, remained in lodgings at Bella Vista until July 1st. On June 6th, before our departure from W ellingto1_1,we took a drive to Wroxeter; saw the ruins of the ancient Roman city of U rico~um, five miles distant; and, whilst in the Isle of Wight, took frequent long drives, in pony carriages, for the purpose of visiting Spring Vale, Quorr Abbey, Brading, West Cowes, Shanklin Chine, Black Gang Chine, Bonchurch, Ventnor, the U nderclift', Carisbrook Castle, Godshill and Aveton. In this way, being as much as possible in the open air, entire rest, and my own careful nursing, proved, through the Lord's kindness, so beneficial to my husband, that he became fully restored to health. We brought this short tour, therefore, to a close, and on July 1st returned to Bristol.'
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llrlISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS THIRTEENTH TOUR. FromSeptember1st to Oct,ol,er 3rd, 1885. H AVINO determined to undertake another short Home Tour, on the morning of Sept.1st, 1885, Mr. Millier and I left Bristol for Windermere, where we re- mained at an Hotel until the 3rd of that month. On that day we went on to Ambleside,engaged apartments there in a house close to Lake Windermere, and occupiedthem until Sept. 14th. On the 10th we took a drive to Lake Ooniston, nine miles from Ambl~de; on the 14th went on to Carlisle, stayed there one night at an Hotel, and on the following morning started for Dundee, Scotland, 200 miles dis~t, where we remained in lodgings until the 22nd. Whilst at Dundee, my husband preached nearly every evening in the week, and twice on Sunday, the 20th, at a few of the places of worship in that city ; on the morning of Sept. 22nd we took our departure for Liverpool, about 300 miles distant, and going after . our arrival to the Adelphi Hotel there, remained in that house until Oct. 3rd. In the course of our stay at Liverpool, including ser- I I i vices at To:tteth Tabernacle, and at other places of .I worship in that city, Mr. Miiller conducted eight meet-
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r OF GEORGEMULLER. 263 ings altogether, and generally had the privilege of addressing large congregations ; but, as he had been invited to attend and to speak at the Conference Meet- ings at Clifton, which were to commence on Oct. 6th, our visit to Liverpool was soon brought to a close. On the morning of Oct. 3rd, therefore,. we left the city, of and, arriving in Bristol on the afternoon that day, re- turned immediately to New Orphan House No. 3, ·Ashley Down, where we remained, however, only .until Nov. 4th.
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l·- 26( MISSIONARY TOURS AND LAllOURS 1 FOURTEENTH TOUR. AUSTRALIA. CHINA, JAPAN A,ND THE STRAITS OF MALACCA. FrumNOfJ.4th, 1885, to June 13th, 1887. I N conseqm1nceof having decided upon undertaking another long foreign Missionary Tour, on Nov. 4th, 1885, Mr. Millier and I left Bristol again, went to London, where we remained in lodgings until the 18th; and whilst in London, he preached several times in Bays- water, at the Talbot Street Tabernacle. On the 18th" we went to Liverpool, and, on the afternoon of the next day, embarking on board the Steamship "Germanic," sailed for New York, where, after a rough voyage of nine days across the Atlantic, we arrived on Nov. 28th, and took up our abode at the Rossmore Hotel. Whilst in New York, my husband preached five times in Ger- man, to large congregations of Germans at their own· places of worship, and addressed about 200 Methodist ministers in English, at a Hall in the city. On the morning of Dec. 19th we left New York, and, travelling by railway in Pullman's sleeping cars across the whole continent of North America, and. alighting only at dif- ferent stations for our meals, on the morning• of Christ-
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r OF GEORGE MULLER. 265 mas Day we arrived at San Francisco, California, after a long and expensive journey of 3,200 miles from New York, and, during the few days we remained in that city, found comfortable accommodation at the Palace Hotel .,, On the morning of Dec. 31st we embarked on board the Steamship "Australia," sailed for Sydney, New South 'Yales, at two in the afternoon ; and, after an exceedingly rough passage on the Pacific Ocean for the first two days, landed early on the morning of Jan. 7th, 1886, at Honolulu, in Oahu, one of the Sandwich Islands, and did not continue our voyage until the evening of that day. At 10 a.m. we hired an open carriage, had a delightful drive to Pali, the weather being warm ; and, returning to Honolul~, after a plea- sant little excursion of 12 miles, went on board the " Australia " again. On that evening, at 7, our voyage was resumed. On Jan. 10th, just before midnight, a young man, one of the first-class passengers, who had been ill, in consumption, and to whom my busban!l had spoken about his soul, died rather unexpectedly, in a cabin near our own, and, on account of the heat of the climate, at 7 the next morning was buried at sea. At that hour a few of the passengers, including our- selves, assembled on deck, and, after the captain of the ship had read a few short portions of the funeral service out of the Church of England prayer-book, the body of the poor young man, which had been sewn up in canvas, was suddenly thrown by some sailors over one side of
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266 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS .the ship, from which a section of the railing had been removed, and was launched into the deep. Mr. Muller then made a few solemn remarks, offered up a short prayer, and closed the service, which was a melancholy and affecting one, in about half an hour. During the remainder of our passage, nothing of any importance occurred. On the morning of Jan. 23rd the "Australia" sailed into the harbour of Port Jackson, at. Sydney, New South Wales ; at noon w~ landed, after a voyage across the Pacific of 6,500 miles, in ~e course of which my husband preached several times on board ; and, going at once to Petty's Hotel, remained there until March 3rd. Whilst at Sydney, Mr. Millier held a great number of meetings at the various Churches, Chapels and Halls, of that city, both on the mornings and evenings of Sun- days, and on the evenings of three or four days every week, when large numbers of persons usually assembled ·to hear him. Before our departure for Bathurst, we took a drive on the afternoon of Feb. 5th to Gurimbla, near Botany Bay, five miles from Sydney. On the morning of Feb. 19th we were introduced to Lord Car- rington, the Governor of New South Wales, by Sir Alfred Steven (the Lieutenant-Governor), at Govern- ment House, and then called upon Sir. James Martin, the Chief Justice of Sydney, but declined his kind in- vitation to remain to lunch. On March 1st, at 9 in ~e morning, we .went on board a small s~er, cruised about the beautiful harbour of Port Jackson for 30 miles, a pleasant little voyage which.'wegreatly enjoyed ;
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 267 and, after taking lunch at the Marine ·Hotel, Chowder Bay, with the party of Christian friends who entertained us there, returned to Sydney. Our stay in that city having come to a close, on the morning of March 3rd we set oft'by railway, and, after travelling for 14:omiles through fine scenery, and in full view of the " blue mountains " the greater part of the way, arrived in the evening at Bathurst, where, going to the Great Western Hotel, we remained until March 10th. At Bathurst my husband had time to hold five meetings only, at the principal Churches in that city. On the 10th we returned to Sydney, stayed for one night at Petty's Hotel, and the following afternoon, at 6 o'clock, took our departure by railway for Melbourne, where, after travelling all night for 450 miles in a sleep- ing compartment of the train, occupied only by ourselves, we arrived at 11.46 on the morning of the 12th, and went to Menzies Hotel, where we re~ed until April 28th. At Melbourne Mr. Miiller held 26 meetings altogether, at the various Churches, Halls and other public buildings, which that city contains. They were crowded to the utmost, including services at the . Theatre Royal, on the evenings of Sunday, March 14th, and Sunday, March 28th, when he addreBBed3,000 persons upon each occasion ; ·and another se'rviceat the great Town Hall, on the evening of the 30th, when he preached to a congregation of about 5,000 people. On April 28th we left Melbourne; visited Geelong, Ballarat, Maryborough, Sandhur'st and Castlemain~all -
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.·.'.t:· f: • :·· -268 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS of them towns in the Colony of Victoria ; and, after my husband .had held several meetings at each . of those places, on MaY.31st we returned to Melbourne. There w~ remained only until June 9th, and, after he had con- ducted three more services in that city, on the morning of that day we embarked on board the steamship_"Birks- gate," sailed from Melbourne at half-past 12, and, after a short but exceedingly rough voyage of 580 miles, landed at Sydney on the 11th, at half-past 4: in the after- noon, and- went once more to Petty's Hotel. In the course of this our sewrul visit to Sydney, Mr. Miiller preached many times more at the different places of worship which that city contains ; and, after remaining there for more than a month, on the morning of July 14:th we embarked on board the Steamship "Barcoo," sailed for Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, at 2 p.m. ; and, landing there at 9 on the morning of the 16th, after a short voyage of 500 miles only from Sydney, w.ent to the Imperial Hotel, where ~e remai~ed until August 10th. At Brisbane, including two 11ervices for the Germans in their own language, Mr. Miiller held 17 meetings altogether, at the different Churches, Chapels and Halls, which $at city contains, where he generally had large congregations of attentive hew.-ers. On the afternoon of July 19th we took a long drive through Brisbane and the neighbourhood, walked fre- quently during our stay in the city in the Botanical Gardens, and rather enjoyed the climate of Queensland, which is considerably warmer than that of Sydney. •
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OF GEORGE MULLER. Our visit to Brisbane, however, having come to a close; on the morning of Aug. 10th we embarked on boll.rd the Steamship " Dacca," a large·vessel belonging to the · British India Steam Navigation Company, and sailed at noon. After calling at Rockhampton, Bowen, Mac- kay, Townsville, Port Douglas and. Cookstown-aH of them towns .on the East Coast of Australia-we passed Cape Flattery, and, after to11-ching· at Thursday Island, sailed along the Straits of Baly on the 24th, with the Island of Baly on the right, and Java on the. left. The Island of Java is about 670 miles in length, and from 200 to 250 miles in breadth ; the scenery all along. this coast was grand, Mount Merapi being 11,220 feet above the level of the sea, with its summit distinctly visible abovethe clouds, and Mount Sedano, an extinct volcano, with the edge of the crater in sight,.being 4,600 feet high; but, as tigers abound in the forests and jungles on and around those mountains, it is considered dangerous for travellers to ascend them. On the :morning of Aug. 26th, at half-past 10, we landed at Priok, on the coast of-Java, went for a short distance only by railway to Batavia, and there took up our abode at the Netherlands Hotel. During our short stay at Batavia, no openings whatever presented them- selves for my husband to hold meetings, on account of the mixed· character of the population, which consists .chiefly of Dutch, Malays, Hindoos and Chinese, who do not understand either English or German; and also because a good interpreter could not be found. We re-
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270 lllISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS mained at Batavia therefore only until Sept. let ; but, on Aug. 31st, before our departure, went by railway to Buitem:org, 36 miles from Batavia, lunched at the Belle Vue Hotel in a balcony belonging to the house, and from it had a good view of the fine mountain scenery of Java, of the river which was flowing about 150 feet below the top of the rock on which the Hotel was built, and of the beautiful tropical vegetation in that part of the Island. .Afterwards we took a drive round the Botanical Gardens, visited the Campus where natives principally reside, and, leaving Buitenzorg at 4 o'clock, returned to Batavia. On the morning of Sept. 1st we rose soon after 3; went by railway to Priok, and, embarking there on board the Steamship "Borneo," a Dutch vessel, sail~d for Singapore, soon after we had taken possession of our cabin, a large and comfortable one, close to the saloon. On Sept. 2nd the "Borneo" touched at the Island of Ballaton, where several Chinese passengers came on board ; and on the 3rd, at 5 in the afternoon, we arrived at Singapore, Straits of Malacca ; but, as the weather was very hot, passed the night in our cabin, instead of going on shore. The next morning, however, we landed, and took a drive into the town with the Cap- tain, in order to, get our letters from the Post Office, but returned to the "Borneo" in time to depart with him at one in the afternoon, when the ship sailed for Hong Kong, China. The captain of the "Borneo " was a Christian, and, though a Dutc~an by birth, spoke
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 271 English and· German fluently, so that Mr. Millierhad much conversation with him, and sought to strengthen him spiritually for future work for the Lord. At 11 at night, on Sept. 6th, we reached the mouth of the river Donay, sailed up that river for 55 miles, and, arriving at Sigon in Cochin China, at 6 on the morning of the 7th, remained there until the morning of the next day ; but on account of the great heat did n~t go on shore. On the 8th, at 7 a.m., the ship started from Sigon; sailed · down the river Donay into the Pacific Ocean, and on the 9th, whilst we were at sea, a Chinaman on board, one of the numerous steerage passengers, died (the Captain told us), from smoking opium to excess. In a few hours afterwards, his body was thrown overboard, but we saw nothing of the funeral, and did not even hear that the poor man was dead, until some time after he had been buried in the sea, because we occupied a saloon cabin, at some distance from the part of the ship w.herethe steerage passengers were accommodated. Nothing further of any importance occurred during this passage; we had fine, warm weather all the way, and arriving· at Hong Kong at 6 on the morning of Sept. 12th, landed soon dterwards, and went to the Victoria Hotel, kept by Messrs. Dorabjee and Hingkee, after a voyage of 5976 miles from Brisbane. At Hong Kong we remained until Sept. 30th; and, d11l'ingour stay in that city, Mr. Miiller held ma/11,'!J meetings, including services !'t Union Church, at the Basel Mission Church, and at the Theatre, some of
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272 JOSSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS which were in English, others in English with transla- tion into Chinese, and in German with interpretation into the Chinese language, also, by Dr. Eitel and a German missionary, who understood the Chinese lan- guage well. Once too, he preached in German, to a congregation of Germans at one of their own Churches. These services were generally well aitended by hearers, who consisted of Chinese, of Germans and of Europeans; and there is the fullest reason to believe, that God's abundant blessing rested upon all these meetings. Whilst at Hong Kong, we took several evening drives through that beautiful city, in jinrickshaws, which are small open carriages on two wheels, drawn by coolies, who run at the rate of six miles an hour ; and, on the afternoon of Sept. 25th, were carried in chairs, resting upon long poles, on the shoulders of coolies, two of these men being before, and two behind each chair (eight of them altogether), up one of the mountains as far as the Victoria Peak, 1400 feet above the level of the sea, from which a fine view of Hong Kong, its harbour, and· the mountainous scenery around, was obtained. . On the afternoon of Sept. 30th we left the Victoria Hotel, went on board the French mail . Steamship " Djemnah," a very large vessel, lying in the harbour; and, having secured a well ventilated cabin near the saloon, sailed at 6 on the meming of Oct. 1st for Shanghai, where we arrived on the 4th, at 6 a.m., landed, and went to the Astor Hotel, Whangpoo Road, after a voyage of 870 miles from Hong Kong. Whilst at
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OF GEORGE MULLER, 273 Shanghai, my husband conducted 17 services altogether, including a large drawing-room meeting at the Deanery, services at Union Church, the Temperance Hall, the Masonic Hall, in a large drawing-room at the Bible Warehouse, a service for the Germans in their own language at one of the Churches, and meetings for tlie Chinese, at Old Union Church, with interpretation into Chinese, by brethren who understood .both the English and Chinese languages well. There is every reason_to .believe, too, that his ministry at Shanghai was greatly blessed to the thousands of persons who heard him preach in that city. Having decided upon visiting three other cities in China, before taking our departure for Japan, on the evening of Oct. 25th we embarked 'on board the " Kiang- Yu," a large Chinese river Steamship, anq. the next morning, at 5 o'clock, sailed for Hankau. After calling at Wu-Hu and Kiu-Kiang-two towns on the banks of the Yang-1\Si-the former of which had a large Pagoda rising far above the houses, on the· 29th, at 7 in the morning, we landed at Hankau, and went to the house of Mr. Foster, one of the missionaries of that city, after a voyage of 650 miles from Shanghai. At Hankau we remained, however, only until Nov. 1st; but during our stay there, including services at the Sailors' Rest, at the Gospel Assembly Hall, where my husband addressed 460 Chinese, with translation into their own language by Mr. Griffiths John, and a meeting at one of the Churches, he preached five times ih that city altogether. T
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274 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On the afternoon of Dec. 1st we crossed the river in a small boat, landed, and were carried in chairs, by coolies, up Tortoise Hill, from the top of which a fine, extensive view of the Yang-tsi, of Hankau, Wu-Chang and Rang- y ang, three cities containing altogether more than a million of inhabitants, lay spread out before us. After returning to Mr. Foster's house, we embarked on board the" Shanghai," another large Chinese river Steamship, started from Hankau at 10 in the evening, and, sailing down the Yang-tsi, reached the landing place for Nankin on the afternoon of Nov. 3rd. There Mr. Hart, a mis- sionary, met us, whom we accompanied for nine miles in a Chinese boat up the little river which leads from the Yang-tsi to Nankin; and, arriving at that city in the -evening, we disembarked, and walked for half a mile to the house of Mr. Leaman, an American missionary, where we remained until Nov. 6th. During our short stay at Nankin, the ancient capital of Ohina, Mr. Miiller had time to hold four meetings only, which were attended principally by English and American missionaries and their friends. On Nov. 4th we visited the great Temple of Confucius, one of the largest Temples in China ; and, on the 5th, walked up a steep hill, from the top of which we could overlook the city, and see the great stone wall, about 50 feet high, and 30 feet thick, now partially in ruins, by which, for 25 miles, N ankin is surrounded. On Nov. 6th, at 9 in the morning, we left Nankin in the Mission-boat, sailed down the little river to the landing- place on the banks of the Yang-tsi, and, embarking on
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 275 board the "Pekin," a third large Chinese river Steam- ship, sailed further down the Yang-tsi to Chinkiang, where we landed, went to the Mission House, and stayed there until Nov. 8th. At Chinkiang Mr. Miiller held five meetings in English at the Mission Church, two of which were with interpretation into the Chinese lan- guage, by brethren well qualified for the work. On Nov. 8th we embarked on board the Chinese Steamship " Kiang Kwan," sailed at 10 in the evening, and, arriving at Shanghai at noon on the 9th, landed, and went again to the Astor Hotel, after a voyage of 175 miles from Chinkiang. One of the especial objects which Mr. Miiller had in view, in going to these various cities in China, was, to seek to comfort and encourage the beloved mis- sionaries labouring there, and to strengthen their hands in God, by means of referring to the Lord's dealings with himself,in his long service in word and doctrine, and in pastoral labours. At Shanghai, my husband held two more meetings only ; and, having decided upon not de- ferring our visit to Japan to a later period of the year, , we made arrangements for our departure from that city. On the morning of Nov. 13th therefore, having em- barked on board the ccTokio Maro," a large Japanese Steamship, we sailed at 11 o'clock, and arriving at Nagasak~ in Japan, on the 15th, at 6 in the morning, went on shore in a small Japanese cc house-boat" soon after breakfast, and took a drive in two jinrickshaws through the native town. From the top of a high hill, up which we walked, there was a beautiful view of T-2
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276 M::tSSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Nagasaki, its harbour, and the picturesque mountain aoenery around; we saw a Japanese Temple also; and, returning in the jinrickshaws to the shore, we entered the boat once more, and went on board the " Tokio Maru" again. At 4 that afternoon the ship sailed for Kobe; at 5, on the morning of the 16th, she touched at Shimonsaki, but only for an hour and a half; and re- suming our voyage along the beautiful Inland Sea, with_ ·fine land scenery for many hours in view, on the 17th, at 6 in the morning, we arrived at Kobe, and landed there at 10 o'clock. At Kobe, we took a drive to the Water- falls about a mile distant, which were well worth seeing ; but, returning in a short time to the _ship, at 6 in the evening we sailed for Yokohama. Not long after our departure from Kobe, however, after leaving the Inland Sea, and sailing out int-0the Pacific Ocean, the weather became exeeedingly stormy, and we were overtaken by one of the typhoons, or circular whirlwinds, for which the seas of China and Japan are so unpleasantly cele- brated. For many hours the sea ran mountains high, so that the "Tokio Maru" was frightfully tossed about upon the waves ; but, through the Lord's kindness, the storm gradually abated, and on Nov. 19th, at 3 in the afternoon, we arrived safely at Yokohama, · went on shore in a small steam-launch, and were thankful to find a comfortable resting-place, at the Club. Ho~l, after a voyage of 1210 miles from Shanghai. At Yokohama we remained until Dec. 7th, and on that day went by rail- way to Tokio, the capital of the Japanese Empire, which
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 277 is only 20 .miles distant, where, at No. 6, Tsukiji, the house of an American missionary, we took up our abode. On the 27th Dec., however, we returned to Yokohama, on the 28th sailed from that city on board the " Satsu- mah Maru," a large Japanese Steamship, at 11 a.m., and arriving at Kobe, at 9 on the evening of the 29th, landed, and went to the Hotel des Colonies, where we remained .until Jan. 5th, 1887. On the morning of that day we went on by railway to Osaka, but stayed there for one night only at Jeuter's Hotel; on the afternoon_of the 6th we continued our journey by railway to Kioto, stayed there at the Ya-ami Hotel until Jan. 8th, and on · the afternoon of that day returned to Kobe, where we remained until Jan. 10th. During the whole of our visit to Japan, which lasted . from Nov. 15th, 1886, to Jan. 10th, 1887, my husband held a great number of meetings altogether, and at Yokohama, at Tokio, at Kobe, and at Kioto, he preached repeatedly at the different places of worship which those· cities contain,·except at Osaka, where he had time to conduct one service only. He spoke ·occasionally in English, when the congregati9ns consisted of persons who understood that language tolerably well, but by far the greater. number of times preached in English with translation into Japanese, by Messrs. Ishimoto Sanjiuro and Kajinosuke Ibuka, Japanese Professors of Theology from the American College at Tokio, both of wholJI.were converted men. His audiences generally were imme-nse, an4 a large Hall called the Kosikwan, and the Shinsakae
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278 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS Church, both of them at Tokio, were frequently crowded to overflowing; even with 2,500 Japanese at one time, whilst he was preaching. At Kioto, he ad- dressed the students of the College there, 450 in number, twice, of whom, as the Christian Professors told him, one half were truly converted young men, who were being instructed for the ministry in word and in doctrine. Mr. Muller's particular aim was to lead the unconverted amongst these yQung men ,to decide for Christ, and to beget in the hearts of the believing students a love for missionary service, either amongst the Japanese in their own country, or amongst the Chinese ; and, from the special spiritual power and unction giveq to him whilst preaching, he has no doubt. but that, in the day of Christ, abundant results from his two Addresses to these 450 students will be seen. On Nov. the 22nd, on the 25th, and on the 30th, whilst at Yokohama, we took some long, delightful drives; had a good view of Mount Fujiyama, 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, and the highest mountain in Japan, a long way off, and saw a good deal of the neighbourhood which surrounds Yokohama. Although 30 miles from that city, Fujiyama is a most conspicuous object, espe- cially as the top of the mountain is covered with snow, which, from the clearness of the atmosphere, can be seen from a great distance. On Dec. 11th, whilst at Tokio, we took a long drive, saw a celebrated Buddhist Temple, a Pagoda, and a Shrine; and on the 18th visited the Palace of the Emperor of Japan, and the Gardens which
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 279 surround that large building, but visitors are allowed to see the exterior of the Palace only. Our visit of nearly two months to Japan having come to a close, on the morning of Jan. 10th, 1887, at 6 o'clock, we sailed from Kobe on board the Peninsula and Oriental Steamship "Teheran," which touched at Naga- saki on the 12th, at 6 a.m.; and, arriving at Hong Kong on the morning of the 16th at 8 o'clock, had a very rough landing in a small Chinese sailing boat, in which we had to croBBthe harbour from the "Teheran," and went to the Victoria Hotel again, after a voyage from Yoko- hama of 1,827 miles. During this our securulvisit to Hong Kong, as my hUBbandhad a severe cold and cough, he did not hold any meetings at all ; and for this reason we did not go to Canton, although an earnest invitation had been sent to UBto visit that city, and a day had actually been fixed· upon for our departure from Hong Kong. On February the lat, therefore, we embarked on board the Steamship "Malwa," sailed at 4:on the after- noon of that day, and on the 6th, at noon, landed at Singapore, Straits of Malacca, after a pleasant voyage of 1,437 miles from Hong Kong ; and going to Ashton Lodge, Sophia Road, an excellent Boarding House in Singapore, remained there until February the 18th. In the course of our stay at Singapore, Mr. Miiller held eleven meetings altogether, at the different Churches which that city contains, ·where he generally had congre- gations that were tolerably large; but, as.the climate was hot and enervating, the numbers of persons who attended
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280 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS them were, probably, not as considerable as they would have been, if the temperature had been cooler, and· if they could have walked, instead-of being obliged to hire carriages to take them to and from the churches where these services were held. Whilst at Singapore we took drives occasionallyin gharriee; on February the 15th we visited the Botanical Gardens, which contained some fine specimens of the " Travellers' Palm " and other tropical trees, walked in the grounds of a rich Chinaman, and saw as much as we had time to see of the suburbs of the city. _ The day for our departure, however, having arrived, at 4 on the afternoon of February the 18th, we sailed from Singapore on board the "Nepaul"; touched at Pe- nang early on the morning of the 23rd, and, sailing across the Indian Ocean afterwards, arrived at Colombo, Ceylon, at 7 on bhe morning of the 28th, after a voyage of 1659 miles from Singapore. At 2 p.m. that day we landed, and, leaving Colombo immediately by railway, travelled for 73 miles to Kandy, a town beautifully situated on the mountains, in the midst of cocoa-nut trees, palms, and other fine tropical productions, and went at once to the Queen's Hotel, close to the lake. There was not time, however, to see much of the town ; but we took a walk by the side of the lake, dined at half-past 7, and, rising the next morning at 4 o'clock, returned to Colombo by an early train. There we em- barked immediately on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship " Ravenna "; sailed at half-past 4
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 281 p.m., and went on, viA Aden, Suez and Port Said, to Marseilles, where, after an exceedingly rough, tempes- tuous passage along the Mediterranean, and a voyage from Colombo of 5073 miles, we did not disembark until March 26th. This sea trip was an unusually long one, because, at 7 on the morning of March the 14th, the ship ran aground in a central and shallow part of the Suez Canal, where the cargo, which filled fourteen large lighters or barges, had to be taken out of her by Arabs ' and other men, specially engaged for the work, so that she did not fl.oatagain until March 17th at 7 a.m. ; and, as all this cargo had to be re-placed, the ship could not sail out of the Canal for Port Said until Saturday, March 19th", at half-past 4 p.m, and thus a detention ~ the Canal was occasioned of nearly a week. In the course of our voyage from Colombo t:o' Marseilles, Mr. Millier con- ducted 4 Bible-reading meetings on board the " Ra- venna," which he held, either in the saloon or on deck, on March the 3rd, the 6th, the 19th, and the 20th. At Marseilles, we stayed at the H6tel du Louvre et de la Paix until April the 4th, and then went, viAToulon, along the Riviera, through Cannes, by railway to Nice, where, at the H6tel des Angla.is first, and afterwards at the Pension Rivoir, which is close to the sea, we re-. mained until June the 4th. Whilst at Nice, my husband preached frequently in English at the Presbyterian Church, and held meetings for the Germans, also, in the German language in the same building_. He was busily occupied, too, during the
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282 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS greater part of our visit, in writing the new Report of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution for Home and Abroad-the Institution of which he is both Founder and Director-a Report which he writes regularly him- self once every year. We called repeatedly, too, whilst at Nice, upon a sick lady, who was dying of cancer at the Pension Anglaise, a large Hotel situated in a beau- tiful village in the outskirts of Nice, because our visits were a great comfort to her, whilst she was suffering intensely from the dreadful disease just mentioned, from which there was no prospect at all that she would ever recover. , In the course of our stay of two months at Nice, we took drives occasionally along the coast of the Meditenanean in an open carriage, and, on April 6th, visited the ChAJ.etde la Grotte, five miles_distant, an attractive spot to which, whilst staying in the town, strangers generally resort. Our visit to Nice, however, having come to an end, on the afternoon of June 4th we left the town by railway ; and, after passing one night at Genoa at the Hotel de la Ville, and t:iie next night at Milan at the H0tel de la Grande Bretagne, in order to break the long journey and to avoid travelling all night, we continued our route, passed close to the beautiful Lakes of Como, Lugano and Ouez, and through the St. Gothard Tunnel on our way from Italy to Swit- zerland; and, travelling (viA. Altdorf) to Lucerne, arrived at the Hotel National, on the banks of the lake, at 5.50 p.m. on June the 6th. On the following evening, at 6 o'clock, we took our departure from Lucerne,
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 283 reached Basel at 7.50, and travelling afterwards viA Amiens, Abbeville and Boulogne, by express train all night, in a sleeping compartment to ourselves, reached Calais at noon on June the 8th. There we embarked on ~ard a steamer, crossed the Straits of Dover in an hour and 20 minutes, and, going on by railway to London direct, arrived at the Victoria Station at 5.20 the same evening, aftera journey from Lucerne of nearly 700 miles. Whilst in London, we _stayed at the Charing Cross Hotel until June 13th, on the afternoon of which day, l?ving the Paddington Station by an express train, we reach~ Bristol in two hours and a ~ and, upon arriv- ing at the top of Ashley Hill, in an open carriage, had the pleasure of seeing a large number of the Orphan boys and girls, who, with their Masters and their Teachers, were standing there to meet us, and who . greeted U8 on our return with many hearty cheers. From the top of this hill, we drove on to New Orphan House No. 3, in the garden of which House (round the front door) the girls who live there had assembled, and arriving at the lodge gate at 6 o'clock, after a long Mis- sionary Tour of 37,280 miles, since, on Nov. 4th, 1885, we left Bristol, we were warmly welcomed home by these Orphan girls, and by many other friends who had also assembled there to meet us.
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284: MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS FIFTEENTH TOUR. SOUTH AUSTRALIA, TASMANIA, NEW ZEA- LAND, CEYLON AND INDIA. August 10th, 1887, to JuM 8th, 1889. Fr()'TTI, A FI'ER much prayer and waiting upon God, haVlilg decided upon undertaking another· long Missionary Toor, in order to visit a number of places to which we had never yet been, on Aug. 10th, 1887, my husband and I again left Bristol ; passed two nights in London at the Charing Cross Hotel, and on the 12th, at one in the afternoon, sailed from Tilbury, near Gravesend, on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship " Clyde " (in which we had secured a large well ventilated cabin, close to the saloon), for Glenelg, in South Australia. On the 20th, at 6 a.m., the ship touched at Valetta, in Malta; but, on.account of cholera there and of quaran- tine, the passengers were not allowedto land. At 4:p.m. our voyage was continued ; and, after calling at Port Said, and at Suez, we reached Colombo, Ceylon ; went on shore there at half-past 4: on the afternoon of Sept. the 5th, and slept for one night at the Oriental Hotel The next morning we had a pleasant drive through the Cinnamon Gardens, though the climate was very hot, and at 4: in the afternoon, embarking again on board
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 285 t~e " Clyde," sailed at 8 in the evening, and arrived off Albany, King George's Sound, on the West Coast of Australia, on Sept. the 18th, at 7 a.m. There we re- mained until half-past 12, and at that hour sailed for Glenelg, where, after an exceedingly rough, boisterous passage, in consequence of the equinoctial gales, which then with great violence set in, we arrived at midnight on Sept. 21st, after a •voyage of 11,183 miles from London. The next morning we left the "Clyde," which was anchored two miles from the shore, and were con- veyed with our luggage in a steam launch, through a terribly rough sea, to the pier, where we landed at 10 o'clock ; and, after a strict Custom House examination of the whole of our baggage, proceeded immediately by railway to Adelaide, seven miles from Glenelg, but took up our abode at .the· York Hotel there, for one week only, until Sept. the 29th. UpoJJ that day, however, having received a kind invitation from Mr. and Mrs. Charles Henry Goode to stay at their house, on Sept. 29th we went to No. 2, Tynte Street, North Adelaide, and remained with them until Nov. the 5th. Whilst at Adelaide, from Sept. 22nd until Nov. 5th, my husband held-a greatnumber of meetings altogether, at the different Churches which that city contains, besides conducting services ~t Glenelg, Port Adelaide and Seina- phore, to which places we had access by railway, as they are all some miles distant from the city. · On the morn- ing of Nov. 5th a short journey by railway of 34 miles brought us to :freeling, from thence we proceeded 24
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286 MISSIONARY TOURS A.ND LABOURS miles further by carriage to Keyneton, stayed there at Evandale-the house of Mrs. Evans; and, after visiting North Rhine, Angaston, Gawler and Kapunda, at each of which towns, as well as at Keyneton, my husband held meetings, one of which, at North Rhine, was in German, for the Germans ; on Nov. 17th we returned to 2, Tynte Street, North Adelaide, and remained there until Dee. 1st. On Nov. 11th we dined with the Hon. J. H. Angas, at his residence-Oollingrove, near Angas- ton; at Gawler we stayed at Parapara, the house of Mrs. Duffield, from the 12th to the 15th, and at Kapunda, which is 54 miles from Adelaide, were enter- . 1 tained at the house of Mr. Greenshields, from Tuesday the 15th until Nov. 17th. At all of the places just mentioned my husband's ministry was greatly appre- ciated, and our stay at each of them would have been much longer than it was, but having the prospect of long journeys before us, through Tasmania and New Zealand, we were unable to spare any more time for visiting ~ose towns, and accordingly, as already stated, returned to Adelaide on Nov. the 17th. During this our ser,ondvisit to that city, Mr. Muller preached again many times; on the evening of Nov. 22nd he held a meeting at Alberton, 10 miles distant, and on Nov. 29th preached a fare- well sermon at North Adelaide Baptist Church, from " Brethren, pray for us," to a large assembly of attentive hearers. At 3 on the afternoon of Dee. 1st we left Adelaide by railway, passed one night at Border Town at the
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r I I OF GEORGE MULLER. 287 house of Mr. Gibbons, and, continuing our journey the next day, arrived at Mount Gambier, 305 miles from Adelaide, in the evening,where, going to the Mount Gam- bier Hotel, we stayed until Dec. the 7th. On the morning of that day we rose at 4 o'clock, travelled by an early train to N arracoorte, and, arriving there before breakfast, were entertained at the house of Mr. Blackwell, two ~iles from the town, where we remained until Dec. the 9th. On the morning of that day we returned to Border Town, started at 9 in the evening from the Wool Shed _ Hotel there to the Station, and, after travelling by expreBBtrain all night, in a sleeping compartment to ourselves, arrived at Melbourne, 327 miles from Border Town, at 10 on the morning of the 10th, and went again to Menzies Hotel. At Mount Gambier, at Narra- · coorte, and at Border Town, Mr. Miiller held several meetings ; and, including the services at these three towns, at Adelaide. and at all the other places which have been mentioned, he preached 80 times in South Australia • altogether, that is, between Sept. 22nd and Dec. 10th, 1887. There is the fullest reason to believe, too, that God's rich, abundant bleBSingrested upon his labours in that Colony, that believers were edified, and that un- converted persons were brought, through his ministry, to a knowledge of the Lord. On Dec. 3rd, whilst at Mount Gambier, we took a drive to the beautiful " Blue Lake," about four miles in circumference, which lies in the large hollow crater of an extinct volcano, at a short distance only from that
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288 MISSIONARY TOURS AND· LABOURS town, and is said to be of an amazing depth. Its clear, transparent waters were intensely blue ; and, as the scenery around this lake is fine, it is considered an object of great interest by strangers. On Dec. the 8th, too, when at Narracoorte, we took a drive to visit some remarkable underground caverns seven miles distant; but whilst at Melbo~e, as the weather was excessively hot, and my beloved husband was not very well, I persuaded him to give up two meetings, which had been arranged for him .in that city for Sunday the 11th, and to rest before our departure for Tasmania and New Zealand. Our brief stay of three days at Melbourne having come to .an end, and having engaged a good cabin on board the "Taraweera," at 6 on the evening of Dec. 13th we sailed for Hobart; and arriving in that city, which is the capital of Tasmania, at 8 a.m., landed, and went to the Orient Hotel, after a pleasant voyage of 422 miles from Melbourne. The next morning we .took up our abode at Pressland Boarding H'ouse, and, whilst at Hobart, Mr. Miiller held 20 meetings altogether at the dift'erent Churches which that city contains. On January the 6th, 1888, we travelled by railway to Perth, 127. miles from Hobart, where Mr. Gibson met us with his carriage ; and accompanying him in that conveyance for two miles further to Native Point, his residence, we stayed with him there until January the 9th. On the afternoon of that day we proceeded to Launceston, 16 miles from Native Point, and arrived at the Brisbane Hotel soon after 4; but, at Perth and at .Launceston,
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r OF GEORGE MULLER. 289 my husband had time to preach only five times alto- gether, because we had to sail for New Zealand from Hobart on January the 12th. On the afternoon of the 11th, therefore, we left Launceston by railway, arrived late in the evening at Hobart, after a journey of 133 miles, and remained there at the Brunswick Hotel until the next day. Our visit to Tasmania (formerly called Van Dieman's Land) having now come to a close, on the afternoon of Jan. 12th we embarked on board a large Steamship, the "Wairarapa.," and sailed for New Zealand at half- past 5. On the morning of Sunday, the 15th, Mr. Millier preached in the saloon, where he had a large congrega- tion of first and second class passengers, by whom the ship was crowded to the utmost ; and at 9, on the evening of that day, we arrived off lnvercargill Bluff, in the Southern Island. of New Zealand, after a favour- able voyage of 930 miles from Hobart. On the fol- lowing morning we landed, went on by railway to ln- vercargill, 17 miles from the Bluff, and, going to the Crescent Hotel in that town, remained there until Jan. 24th. On the morning of that day we rose at half-past 4, left Invercargill by an early train, and, embarking at Kingston on board the Lake steamer" Ben Lomond," sailed along Lake W akatipu for 25 miles, and, landing at Queenstown at 4 o'clock, went to Eichardt's Hotel, a large building beautifully situated, close to the edge of the lake. At lnvercargill and at Queenstown, my husband held several meetings altogether at the Presby- u
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290 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS terian Churches, and at other places of worship, which were attended by large congregations. Early on the morning of the 27th we took a long drive in an open carriage through the picturesque Lake District in the neigh- bourhood of Queenstown, and before I o'clockreturned to the Hotel. Lake Wakatipu is about 50 miles in length, and is surrounded by high mountains partially covered with snow, some thousands of feet above the level of the sea, which have a grand appearance from the decks of steamers, as passengers sail up or down the Lake. In the afternoon we embarked again on board the " Ben Lomond," sailed soon afterwards, and, arriving at Kings- tonin about two hours, went to the Terminus Hotel, which we reached before the dinner hour at half-past 6. On the morning of the next day (January 28th) we rose at half-past 4, started by an early train, and, after travelling for 12· hours and a half, arrived at the Grand Hotel, Dunedin, where we 'remained until Feb. 14th. Whilst travelling from Kingston to Dune- din, in a long saloon carriage of the train which was filled with passengers, a gentleman sat exactly opposite to us with a newspaper in his hand, out of which he read aloud for a few minutes to his fellow passengers, that "the Rev. George Miiller of Bristol, England, was about to visit Dunedin," etc., etc. ; adding,-" I would give a great deal indeed to see him." Upon being in- formed that Mr. Miiller was sitting just opposite to him, he was delighted, took off his hat, .shook hands with us both, and entered into a long conversation, in which all
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 291 our fellow passengers seemed greatly interested. The day after our arrival, on the morning of Sunday, Jan. 29th, my husband commencedhie labours at Dunedin by preaching at the First Presbyterian Church to a large congregation; and on the evening of that day, at the Garrison Hall, an immense building with a capacious gallery and a large platform, he addressed an audience of 2,800 persons at 8 o'clock, with great help from the Lord. On the evening of Jan. 31st he addressed about 800 Christian Workers at the Choral Hall ; on Feb. the let he preached at ~nox Church; on the 2nd at St. Andrew's Church ; on the morning of Sunday, the 5th, he spoke at a meeting of Brethren in the .Choral Hall, and in the evening, at 8 o'clock, preached for the second large congregation at the Garrison Hall. time to a 'IJe'1"!I On Feb. the 6th he held a meeting for the pastors of the city, whom he addressed for about an hour. On Feb. 8th he preached at the Baptist Church; on the 9th at the Congregational Church, Murray Place ; on the 10th at the Wesleyan Church, Cargill Road; on the morning of Sunday, Feb. the 12th, he preached at King Street Congregational Church, and in the evening at the Choral Hall addressed an over.flowingaudience, so that hundreds of persons were obliged to go away, because it was ~possible to obtain admission into the building. This was hie farewell meeting at Dunedin. During our stay in the city, we took an afternoon drive on Feb. 2nd through its suburbs, and on the 8th went by tram-car- riage to Mornington, where, from the top of a hill, we u-2 -
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292 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOUBS had a fine view of Dunedin, its neighbourhood, and of the Pacific Ocean in the distance. On Feb. 14th we took our departure from Dunedin; went on by railway to Port Chalmers, a small town in a picturesque situation, with fine sea and mountain scenery, nine miles distant, and at the Manse, the resi- dence of Mr. John Ryley (Presbyterian :minister), remained until the 18th. On the afternoon of that day we started by the 3.50 train, proceeded to Oamaru, 70 miles from Port Chalmers, and, arriving at the Star and Garter Hotel, in the evening at half-past 8, remained there until Feb. 20th. On the afternoon of that day we left Oamaru by the I o'clock train, continued our travels for 53 miles along the sea shore, and, arriving at the Grosvenor Hotel, Timaru, soon after 3, took up our abode there until the 22nd. At Port Chalmers, at Oamaru, and at Tim.am, Mr. Miiller held seven meetings . altogether, all of which were attended by large congre- gations. On the afternoon of the 22nd we left Timaru by the 3.17 train, passed Ashburton and Christchurch on our way, and arriving at Lyttelton in the evening at ·half-past 8, went to the Mitre Hotel, after a journey of 106 miles from Tim.am. On the afternoon of Feb. 23rd we embarked on board a large Steamship, the "Manapouri," commanded by an excellent man, Captain Logan, with whom we had happy Christian intercourse, and who showed us the greatest kindness and attention pOSBible.In the evening at half-past six we sailed, and landing at Wellington,
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 293 • the capital of New Zealand, and in the Nurihem Island, on the morning of the 24th, at half-past 9, went to the Albert Hote~ after a voyage of 180 miles from Lyttel- ton. On the morning of Sunday, Feb. 26th, Mr. Millier commenced his service for the Lord at Wellington by preaching at the Presbyterian Church ; and on the evening of that day he conducted a service at the Opera House at 8 o'clock, which was so crowded with hearers, that the following statement regarding the meeting was published the next morni:qg . in the newspapers :-:- " Yesterday evening the Rev. George Millier of Bristo~ England, preached at the Opera House to the largest congregation ever packed into that building, for not only were all the seats crowded to the utmost, but hundreds of persons were obliged to stand." . In the course of that week he held several other meetings at, Wellington. On the morning of Sunday, March 4th, he preaehed at the Baptist Church, and on the evening of that day, at 8 o'clock, addressed another large audience of more than 2,000 persons at the Opera House, a building which, a few weeks after our departure from Wellington, was totally destroyed by fire. During the whole of that week his labours in the ministry were continued; on Sunday morning, March 0th, he gave an address in a large Hall .at a meeting of Brethren for the breaking of bread, and on the evening of that day preached at the Theatre to a very large congregation. On March 5th we took a drive to the beautiful Botanical Gardens; on the evening of the 13th went by carriage
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294 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS to " the Hutt,'' a village eight miles distant, where, at the Wesleyan Church, he preached to a crowded audi- ence ; and he continued to be actively engaged at Wellington, in service for the Lord, until the 16th, when our stay in that city terminated. On the afternoon of March 16th we left Wellington, travelled by railway for 88 miles, and, arriving at the Club Hotel, Palmerston-North, in the midst ofa violent thunderstorm, after a late dinner, at 8 o'clock, retired tq rest. At Palmerston we remained until March 23rd; left the town by railway at noon on that day for Great- ford, 24 miles distant, and proceeding thence by coach to the town of Bulls, stayed there at the Criterion Hotel until March 27th. On the afternoon of that day, a little journey (vii Greatford) of nine miles further on, by coach and by railway, brought us to Marton. There, at the White Hart Hotel, we remained until the 29th, and on that day continued our travels in a northerly direction. At Palmerston-North, at Bulls and at Marton, Mr. Miiller held ten meetings altogether; and though the weather at Marton was 'ITWstunfavourable, because there were violent equinoctial gales, accompanied by drenching storms of rain and of hail, nearly all the time our visit lasted, he had, upon the whole, much larger congregations than could have. been expected. On March 29th we left Marton by the 2 p.m. train, arrived at Wanga,nui, 41 miles distant, at half-past 3, and, going to the Rutland Hotel, remained there until April the 9th. On the afternoon of that day we proceeded by railway, _in
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OF GEORGEMULLER. 295 sight of,Mount Vernon, several thousands of feet high, to Hawera, 59 miles distant, stayed at the Commercial Hotel there until April 12th, and on the afternoon of that day travelled on to New Plymouth, 48 miles further north, where, at the Criterion Hotel, we remained until April the 18th. At Wanganui, at Hawera and at New ~lymouth, my husband preached 14 times altogether, at the different Chu~hes which those cities contain, where he had the privilege of addressing large congregations, and where his ministry, as we heard afterwards, was highly appreciated by the persons who heard him. Our short stay at New Plymouth, however, having come to a close, on the afternoon of April the 18th we embarked on board the Steamship "Wanaka," sailed at 6 on the evening of that day, and landing at Qnehunga at 8 on the morning of April the 19th, after a night voyage of 150 miles from New Plymouth, proceeded by carriage to Auckland direct, eight miles distant, where, at Oram's Hotel, we remained until May the 21st. During·the wholetime we stayed in Auckland, that is, up to our .fonaldeparture from that city on June 27th, Mr. Miiller preached 47 times altogether, including services conducted by him in the suburbs of Remuera, Parnell, Newton, North Shore, Ponsonby and Onehunga, where, at the different Churches, at the Opera, House, in the Tabernacle, at the Theatre and at the Room of the Brethren, he had very large audiences continually, by whom he was listened to with the greatest interest and attention.
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296 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS On the morning of May 21st we rose soon after 5, started at 8 o'clock by railway for Oxford, and, after spending one night there at an Hotel, set oft' early the next morning by carriage for Ohinemutu in the Hot Lake District, where we arrived at I p.m. ; and, going to the Lake Hotel, remained there until May the 25th. At Ohinemutu, Lake Rotorua, which is about 33 miles in circumference, is one of the principal objects of attraction. This Lake is the colour of milk, from the I I large quantities of white volcanic mud deposited beneath its wate~ and considerable quantities of steam rise from certain parts of the surface of the Lake ; but in places where there ~s no steam, the water is nearly cold. ; On the morning of the 23rd we took a long drive through the Volcanic District to the top of a mountain, from which a fine distant view of Mount Taraweera, an extinct volcano,was obtained. On June I oth, 1886, there was a terrific eruption from this Mount Taraweera, when 105 Maoris (or natives of New Zealand), with their dwellings and property, were destroyed; and Mr. Edwin Bainbridge, from England, who was TEN miles distant from the Mountain at the time of this volcanic outbreak, was overwhelmed by the torrents of hot mud, lava, cinders, &c., which were poured forth with the greatest violence for mamymiles from the crater upon its summit, and, in consequence of this explosion, was killed upon the . spot. The beautiful, extensive and celebrated IC Pink and White Terraces" too, were totally destroyed at that time. We returned in the carriage to Ohinemutu
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OF GEORGE llULLER. 297 through a settlement of tlie Maoris,and through " the Bush " ; and ip.the evening Mr. Miiller preached at the Episcopal Church, close to Lake Rotorua, to a large congregation of Europeans and Americans, for the Rev. Frederick Spencer, whom we met in Rome some years ago, and who was residing at Ohinemutu at the time we were there.· On the morning of May 24th we walked to the springs of boiling water, saw several quantities of boiling mud bubbling up at a little distance from the surface of the ground; and, in the afternoon, took a drive to the Geysers, which are springs of boiling water that rise with great force for several feet into the air, and generate large quantities of steam, which can be seen floating about in clouds from a considerable distance. These Geysers were well worth seeing, and are of the same character, I believe, as those in Iceland~ On May 25th, at 10 a.m., we took our departure from Ohinemutu, went back by coach to Oxford, and the following afternoon returned by railway to Auckland, where we arrived at 10 that night, after an excursion, to and from the Hot Lake and Volcanic District, of 373 miles. At Auckland Mr. Miiller ,resumed his service for the Lord, and continued, as already mentioned, to preach in that city and in the neighbourhood until June the 27th; but our long visit of nearly six months to New Zealand having now come to a close, on the afternoon of that day we embarked on board the " Rotomahana," a large Ocean Steamship, which sailed at half-past 5.
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298 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS At 7 on the morning of the 28th we arrived at the Bay of .Islands, and, after touching at Opua, and at· RUSBell, two towns beautifully situated on the coast of that Bay, continued our voyage to Sydney, New South Wales, where, after a most favourable passage of 1389_miles, we landed on the morning of July the 2nd. On Sunday morning (July 1st) my husband held a meeting in the Saloon of the " Rotomahana " ; preached to a large number of the first and second class passengers and of the officers of the ship, and was listened to by them· with much interest and attention. After passing one night at the Royal Hotel, Sydney, on the ·afternoon of July 3rd we went to Ardrossan Boarding House, Wyn- yard Square, and there we remained until November the 10th. During this our long visit to Sydney, for th& third time, Mr. Millier preached in that large city, and in its suburbs of Merrickville, W ooloomooloo,Waverley, Newtown, Castlereagh, Redfern, Balmain and Glebe, 86 times altogether, at the principal Churches, Halls, at the Brethren's Room, and in other public buildings which those places contain. Whilst we were staying at Sydney, too, this time, he delivered nine lectures in succession,at the Burton Street Tabernacle, on subjects connected with the Second Coming of our Lord, con- ducted services also for Christian Workers, and held five consecutive meetings at the Tabernacle, where he answered in public about 60 written questions on a great variety of subjects, which had previously been sent in to him. Soon after our arrival in Sydney, too,
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OF GEORGE MULLER.' 299 as he received a letter signed by a great number of earnest and decided believers of various denominations, requesting him to hold a series of meetings especially for the spiritual instruction and advancement of Clvristiams; in compliance with this request, he held more than twenty such meetings altogether, at a few of the places of worship in the city. He preached four times likewise at Episcopal,Churches in Sydney, where the services were as simple and evangelical as possible, the clergymen belonging to those Churches being large hearted brethren. When our long visit, of more than four months, to Sydney had terminated, having secured one of the largest, most comfortable, and best ventilated cabins on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship " Britan- nia," a large Ocean steamer of 6600 tons, on Nov. 10th, at one in the afternoon, we sailed for Williamstown, landed there at 10 o'clock on the morning of the 12th, and going on by railwayto Melbourne, 12 miles distant, stayed at the Oriental Hotel in that city until the 16th. On the evenings of Nov. 13th and 14th Mr. Millier preached at the Hall of the Young Men's Christian Association ; on the evening of the 15th he attended a prayer-meeting at the Protestant Hall ; and on the morning of the 16th we returned to Williamstown. There, embarking on board the " Britannia " again, at · 3 in the afternoon, we sailed for Largs Bay ; arrived there at 4 on the morning of the 18th, and, after landing at 10 o'clock, proceeded by railway to Adelaide direct, ten miles distant, where we passed one night only at
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300 MISSIONARY TOUBS AND LABOUBS the York Hotel. On the evening of that day Mr. Miiller · preached at Zion Chapel, near Flinders Street, where he had the pleasure of addressing a large congregation. On the morning of Nov. 19th we returned to Largs Bay, where a steam-launch conveyed us on board the " Britannia " again, which was two miles distant from the coast, and, sailing at 4 on the afternoon of that day for Albany, we arrived oft'·that town on *e 22nd at I p.m., but did not go on shore. At 6 on the morning of the 23rd we sailed from Albany, rounded "the Lewin," where there was a heavy swell and the sea is always very rough, a few hours after our departure ; and after entering the Tropics on the 25th, and crossing the Line on December the 1st, arrived in the harbour of Colombo, Ceylon, at 3 o'clock on the morning of Dec. 3rd, at the close of a delightful voyage of 5535 miles from Sydney. I had dreaded this voyage greatly, because the sea was so very rough when we came out from ,England,fifteen months before ; but now, in answer to many, many prayers, the ocean was perfectly smooth. At 9 we landed ; were conveyed in a gharry for a mile to the Galle Face Hotel, which, surrounded by large groves of cocoa-nut trees, stands in a pleasant, healthy situation upon the sea-shore, and our luggage followed us in a bullock-cart. Whilst at Colombo my husband held many meetings at the principal Churches which that city contains. On December 12th we went by railway to Moratuwa, 12 miles from Colombo,where he preached at the Wesleyan
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 301 native Church, at halt.past one, in the middle of the day, to a large congregation of Cingalese men and women, most of whom were converts to the Christian faith, and to more than I 00 native boys and girls, with translation into the Oingalese language by one of the native pastors, who understood English well ; and on the afternoon of the 13th, at half-past one, he held a meeting at Koticawatte, six miles distant, at the Baptist native Church, where he addressed a large congregation of Cingalese converts also, with interpretation by one of the native pastors into their own language. Having received an earnest invitation to attend a Convention at Nuwara-Eliya, on the morning of December the 14th we rose at 5, started from Slave Island railway station, for that place, by the 7 o'clock train; and, after a slow and circuitous, but beautifu~ journey up tlie mountains, surrounded by magnificent scenery, arrived at Nuna- Oya at 4 in the afternoon, alighted from the train, and were driven in an open carriage, four miles higher up, to Nuwara-Eliya, 6220 feet above the level of the sea, in a lovely and romantic situation, where, taking up our abode at the Grand Hotel, we remained until December the 17th. During our stay at Nuwara-Eliya, Mr.Miiller spoke three times at the Convention Hall, for an hour upon each occasion, where a clergyman from Ireland, Mr. Jordan, Mr. Walker, Mr. Pigott, and a number of other brethren, gave addresses also. There are about 800 Tea Planters living on those mountains, from amongst whom many had been brought, not long since,
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302 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS to the knowledge- of our Lord Jesus Christ. In order that they might be benefited by the teaching of Mr. Miiller, and by his long experience in the divine life, he had been especially invited to attend this Convention, and a most abundant bleBBing was conveyed by his ministry. The day of the Lord alone will fully reveal how greatly these young converts, and even older believers too, were benefited by his teaching. Whilst staying at Nuwara-Eliya, we walked occasionally in the gardens of the Hotel, where there were many flowers in full bloom, saw an immense flight of butterflies, millions of those insects, all flying in the sunshine in - one direction, and had a good view of Mount Pedrotella- gallah, 8400 feet above the level of the sea, which is the highest mountain in Ceylon. On the morning of December 17th we left Nuwara-Eliya by carriage at half-past 8, started from Nuna-Oya by the 9 o'clock train ; and, after travelling through tea and coffee plantations, through extensive fields of rice, and in full view of Adam's Peak, rising high above the other moun- tains, arrived at Kandy in the afternoon at half-past 2, and went to Grey's Hotel, a building delightfully situated close to the margin of the Lake. That :evening, at half- past 5, Mr. Millier preached at the Wesleyan Church, in Kandy, to a large congregation; at the close of the service he had a brief conversation with the pastor, and at half-past 7 we dined at the Hotel. 'l'he next morning (December 18th) we rose at 5 o'clock, and took an early drive in an open carriage to the Botanical
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OF GEOR(,lE MULLER. 303 Gardens, six miles distant, ·for which Kandy is celebrated. There, on alighting from · the conveyance, a Cingalese man, who spoke English pretty well, conducted us through the grounds, as guide, and pointed out the tropical wonders which they contain, including many large trees of gigantic growth. Some India-rubber trees in these grounds were of amazing height, and their wonderfully large roots, extending far and wide in all directions above,as well as below,the ground, particularly attracted our attention. ·The African oil palm trees in · these Gardens, too, almost rivalled in height the " big trees" we saw•in California, and Upas trees sopoisonous were there, that persons die, it is said, who sleep under their ·shade. The banyan-trees were fine, and trees of much smaller growth, such as nutmeg, clove, chocolate and bread-fruit trees, were conspicuous objects in these Gardens. Several clusters of large bamboos were grow- ing near some water,' and collections· of beautiful ferns and orchids, with splendid flowering creepers climbing up a few of the tall trees, make these Gardens an attrac- tive resort both to the na?ves of Kandy, and to the strangers who may be residing in that town and neigh- bourhood for a short time. When our visit to these Botanical Gardens had terminated, we returned in the carriage to the Hotel to breakfast; set off at 2·15 in the afternoon by railway for Colombo, and arrived there in the evening at half-past 6, after a journey-,to Nuna-Oya, to Nuwara..Eliya, to Kandy, and back again to .Coiombo, of 344 miles.
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304 lllSSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS At Colombo my husband resomed his labours in the ministry ; on Sunday, December the 23rd, he preached at the Baptist Church, Cinnamon Gardens, to a large congregation of Cingalese, at oneo'clock, with translation into their own language by one of the native pastors, and in the evening he held a meeting for persons who understood English, at six, which was his farewell service in the Island of Ceylon. In the course of our stay at Colombo, we took several drives in gharries and in jinrickshaws, up and down the Esplanade, through the Cinnamon Gardens, and along the sea-coast, where the waves roll in continually with great force upon the shore. The Museum contains a shark 23 feet in length, and 13 in girth, which was caught a few years ago in that part of the sea which is close to Moratuwa; and elephants, monkeys, birds, a beautiful collection of butterflies ~d other insects, some alligators, tortoises and snakes, are exhibited in this Museum ; the animals, birds, &c. having been stuffed, and the lizards, snakes and other reptiles, having otherwise been carefully pre- served. We visited this Museum on the afternoon of Dec. the 24th; all the animals, birds, insects, &c. &c., which it contains, are from the Island of Ceylon, and the entire collection, which is of a choice and valuable description, is well worth a visit of inspection. A few of the snakes of Ceylon are harml888, others are poison- ous, and cobras abound in the neighbourhood ofC!)lombo, which are of so deadly a character, that death in ten minutes is certain to follow their bite, because no remedy
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r OF GEORGE MULLER. 305 for the wounds inflicted by these reptiles has ever been discovered. Our visitto the Island of Ceylon having come to a close ; at 6 on the evening of Dec. 26th, we sailed from Colombo on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steam- ship "Nepaul," landed at Garden Reach on Dec. 31st at 3 in the afternoon, and going on by carriage into Calcutta, went to a larg~ Boarding House in the best and most healthy part of the city, where we took up our abode, after a most favourable voyage of 1264 miles from Colombo. During this our secondvisit to India, my husband commenced· his labours in Calcutta, by preaching on Sunday, Jan. 6th, 1889, at the Methodist Episcopal Church, Dharamtolla Street, at 8 o'clock on the morning o_fthat day, and subsequently he ~eld meetings twice on , Sundays and two or three times on week evenings, at the Free Church of Scotland, at the Church of England MiBBionHall, at Lower Circular Road Baptist Chapel, and at Union Chapel Independent Mission Hall. At Barrackpore also, on the banks of the river Hoogley, ten miles _from Calcutta, he preached on the eveniµg of Feb. 1st to a large congregation. On Sunday, Feb. 3rd, Mr. Millier conducted services both morning and evening at Lall Bazaar Baptist Chapel, and held meetings re- ' peatedly afterwards at other places of worship in the city, including the Wesleyan Church, Sudder Street, and Trinity Church, in. which building he addressed a very large natifJBcongregation, on the evening of Feb. 28th, X
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306 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS with translation into the Bengali language by one of the native pastors. On the afternoon of March6th we went by railway to _Serampore, thirteen miles from Calcutta, where he held two meetings, the first of which was conducted in a large Hall at the College at 3 o'clock, where he ad- dressed a company of native students, with translation into the Bengali language ; and the second was held at Serampore Mission Chapa~ where, -at 6 in the evening, he preached to a large congregation of Europeans, and of natives also who understood English. On the after- noon of March 8th, at Albert Hall, my husband addressed an assembly of 200 educated natives, consisting exclu- sively of Hindoo gentlemen (or "baboos" as they are called), when no ladies, either European or native, were present; on Sunday the 10th he preached both morning and evening at Lall Bazaar Baptist Chapa~ and on the 14th attended a vernacular service, at 5 p.m., at which he gave an address in English in the open air, in the Compound where that Chapel stands. This service was attended by Europeans and by Hindoos also who under- stood English, and he was followed by brethren who spoke to the natives only of the congregation, either in Hindoostanee or in the Bengali dialect. On the evening of the 20th he held a meeting at the Bengali Church, Dharamtolla Street, where, with interpretation by one of the native pastors, he addressed a· mass meeting of natives, which included many Hindoos· from other Churches ; on the morning and evening of Sunday the
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 307 24th he preached at two of the Chapels in Calcutta, and on the evening of March 27th conducted a service at a native Church, with translation into the Bengali lan- guage by one of the native pastors. He continued, too, to hold meetings in Calcutta up to April 4th, but as he preached again and again at the same places of worship, it is unnecessary to repeat the name of each Church, Chapel and Hall, where these various services were held, because they have already been specified. Finding that the heat at Calcutta by this time was becoming extreme and most oppressive, the thermometer day after day being 110 degrees and upwards in the shade, on the afternoon of April 4th we left the Board- ing House where we had been staying, accompanied by John Nathaniel, a native servant from Madras, whom we had engaged on Jan. 2nd, soon after our arrival in Calcutta, to travel with us throughout India. As we drove along the streets in a gharry to the railway-station, the SUD shone down upon us with a fierceness that is beyond description. At 4.30 we started by train from Calcutta, and arriving at Damookdea GM.t at nine in the evening, went on board a large ferry steamer imme- diately. After crossing the river Ganges, we landed at Sara, apd entering another train, which was waiting there, obtained a comfortable sleeping compartment to ourselves-Nathaniel, of course, continuing to travel by third class. At 10 the train started, and, after travelling all night, on the morning of April 5th, at half-past 8, we arrived at Siliguri, remained there for an hour, and
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308 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS then set off towards the mountains in a steam tram-car- riage, with a roof overhead but open at the sides. Gradually ascending the Himalayas by a long, winding, circuitous route of 51 miles from Siliguri, surrounded by magnificent scenery, we reached Darjeeling, nearly 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the afternoon at half-past 4, after a journey of 24 hours from Calcutta, and went to the Manse, where Mr. H. R. Brown, the pastor of Union Chapel, resides. Mr. Miiller had time, howel'er, to preach four times only at Union Chapel, and to hold one drawing-room meeting at the Manse, . i because, finding the sudden transition from the intense heat of Calcutta to the comparative cold of Darjeeling exceedingly trying, we remained there only until •April 15th. Accordingly, leaving Darjeeling by tram-carriage at 11 o'clock on the morning of that day, we returned to Calcutta, but did not arrive in that city until the following afternoon at 3 p.m., after travelling for 28 hours instead of 24, because a serious railway accident had occurred between Siliguri and Sa.rato another train, on the line of railway along which we had to pass, by which seven persons were killed, and 69 terribly injured, a melancholy circumstance which occasionedconsiderable delay. At Calcutta the labours of Mr. Miiller in the ministry were resumed, and he continued to preach in that city as usual ; 1:>utscarcely were we comfortably settled again at the Boarding House, in which we had previously· resided for thirteen weeks and two days, when the heat
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 309 increased to a greater intensity than ever, so that it became necessary to consider what steps we should ~e, in order that, with the blessing of God, none of the diseases so fatal to Europeans in tropical climates, might suddenly seize upon and carry us off. The mosquitos, too, became increasingly trying, both by day and by night ; and though large pu.nkahs, in the drawing-room and dining-hall, were worked ~ontinually by coolies, and in our own bedroom a great punkah was swinging ra- pidly all day and all night long, nothing could satisfac- torily abate the intensity of the heat. I persuaded my husband, therefore, to consult a physi- cian with reference to the climate, who told him that we ought not, on any account, to remain a day longer in the city than was absolutely necessary, and that, if we did so, it would be at the risk of our lives. We thought, therefore, of going to Simla, on the Himalayas, but, as that town is more than eleven hundred miles distant from Calcutta, the doctor said, that a long railway jour- ney, under the burning rays of a tropical and almost vertical sun, would be extremely dangerous ; so we decided upon returning to Darjeeling. On April 29th, therefore, we left Calcutta by the 4.30 p.m. train; but, soon after our departure from the railway station, my beloved husband-though an excellent traveller, and one amongst a thousand in his ability to endure fatigue -became so extremely unwell from exhaustion, pro- duced by the amazing heat, that I was exceedingly alarmed, and feared that he might die suddenly in the x~ ---
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310 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS train. I knew, too; that there were no hotels on the road, nor any railway stations at which we could stop with anything like comfort ; so I persuaded him to lie down upon one of the long seats of the saloon compart- ment we occupied, in which, happily, there were no other passengers besides ourselves, placed one of the pillows we carry with us, when taking night journeys, under his head, and kept all the windows down, so that we might not lose a single breath of air. I fanned him repeatedly also with a large fan, persuaded him to drink , a little of the wine and water, and to eat a few of the sandwiches, we had with us, and begged him, if possible, to try and sleep. When the train stopped long enough at the stations, too, and Nathaniel came to ask us if we wanted anything, I sent him to fetch a cup of tea _for Mr. Miiller, or a glass of lemonade ; and, in answer to repeated, fervent prayer, managed to keep life in him . until we reached Damookdea GhAt, where we arrived at nine in the evening. There, finding that his pulse was good, · I took courage ; we went on board the ferry- steamer immediately, where, seated upon a chair on deck, he found the night breezes blowing over the Ganges exceedingly refrajrlng ; and, at Sara GhAt, we went on shore. At that station, a comfortable sleeping . compartment was secured for us by Nathaniel in another train; at 10 o'clock we started, and after travelling all night, in the course of which Mr. Miiller slept soundly for several hours, the next morning (April 30th), at half-past 8, we reached Siliguri. From that station, we
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 311 travelled by steiun tram-carriage up the Himalayan Mountains to Dar,ieeling, and arrived there in the afternoon at half-past four, when a jinrickshaw con- veyed my husband, and I was carried in a "dandy" on the shoulders of N epaulese coolies, up a very steep, long road to Rockville, a large Boarding Ho1188,in a beautiful situation, with a fine view fi:om it of the snow-covered peaks of the HimalayanMountains in the distance, when the weather is clear. There, in a few days, Mr. Miillei: regained his ordinary good health, and I am thankful to say that, through the Lord's kindness,' he became as well and as strong as usual During this secondvisit to Dar- jeeling, he has preached habitually at Union Ohapel, and has delivered lectures at the To:wn Hall, besides conducting Bible-reading meetings at the Manse, and preaching in the Theatre at Jellapahar, near Darjeeling, for-the benefit especially of the officers and soldiers sta- tioned there, who are almost all Europeans. He has held one meeting for the Germans of Darjeeling too, whom he addressed in ·their own language, and has besides been occupied µi writing the fiftieth Annual Report of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution for Home and Abroad, of which he is the Founder and Director. About the middle of June, when the monsoons will commence, and the heavy rains set in, so that the climate will have ~come somewhat cooler, we purpose (the Lord permitting) to return to Oalcutta, and to proceed from that city to Umbala, on our way to Simla, after stopping perhaps at Patna, Allahabad and Oawnpore, in order
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.312 MISSIONARY TOU:As AND LABOURS that Mr. Miiller may hold meetings in each of those cities. From Umbala, where the railway in that direc- tion terminates, and which is a station nearly 1,100 miles from Calcutta, we shall have to travel by dAk carriage and by tonga, vii Kalka, up the Himalayan Mountains, by a circuitous road of 96 miles to Simla, a town about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, where we purpose to stay at an Hotel or at a Boarding House for ten or twelve weeks. At Simla, Mr. Miiller hopes to have an abundance of work, and, as that town is a centre of great importance, because the Viceroy of India and the Indian Government are staying there for several months, as well as thousands of visitors besides, he has been told by missionary brethren residing in that place, that good done at Simla, with the blessing of God, will probably extend to various parts of the Indian Empire. After leaving Simla, we hope to proceed to Delhi, and afterwards to visit J eypoor, Ahmadabad and Bombay. From Bombay we shall probably travel to Hyderabad, and to Secunderaba.d, and, returning to the former city, may possibly continae our travels by railway to Bezwa.da, and thence by mission boat, either on the canal or on the river, to Nursa.pur and the Godavery District; but if we do not visit that District, we contemplate going ·to Madras instead, and from that city may sail, on boa.rd one of the large Steam-ships, for Rangoon in British Burma.h, in order that, .after holding meetings at the various places above mentioned, my husband may labour for the Lord there.
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OF GEORGE MULLER. 313 In the course of this _Present fifteenth Tour, since leaving Bristol, on Aug. 10th, ·1887, we have travelled 26,593 miles by land and by sea, up to the present time (June 8th, 1889); and if we should visit all the places just mentioned, and go to Penang, to the Straits of Malacca, to China and Japan afterwards, for the second time, and finally return to England ; by the time we arrive in Bristol, we shall have travelled about two hun- dred thousand miles altogether in the Lord's service, by land and by water, that is, including the distances tra- · versed during the w'Jwleof our long missionary journeys from March 26th, 1875, up to the very end of this last long fifteenth Tour. Our future movements are, however, exiremely'U1ncertain;we wait daily upon the Lord for light and guidance, and whether we shall be able to continue our travels in as extensive a manner as I have indicated, or not go to any of the places just mentioned at all, can be determined only when the time comes. My ownwork,during our travels, has consisted in giving away little Gospel books and tracts, as well as p~blica- tions for believers, of which I have circulated many thousands altogether, and which I trust, with God's blessing, will be of great spiritual benefit to those per- sons into whose hands they have been directed. I have also written many thousands of letters for my husband in the course of the last fourteen years, in order that ~e might be saved the trouble of writing them himself. Although Mr. Miiller has no property whatever of his own, no salary from the funds of the Scriptural Kno~-
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rI I I 314 MISSIONARY TOURS AND LABOURS ledge Institution for Home and Abroad, nor any stipend as a pastor, we have been able to spend tlwuso;nd,s of 'IJOUMS during the last fourteen years upon our long mis- I sionary journeys. For sixty years my husband has trusted in the Lord alone for all his temporal supplies, i- i and God has honoured the faith which he still continues I to exercise in Him, by graciously giving us the money needed for all our heavy travelling and Hotel expenses. He has put it into the hearts of Christian persons, living l I at different places in various parts of the world (many of whom we had never seen, nor even heard of until their contributions came to hand), voluntaruyto send us dona- tions towards our own personal expenses, and has in every respect abundantly supplied our need. Our expenditure too has been greatly increased through living so much at Hotels and Boarding Houses, instead of accepting the kind hospitality of friends ; but Mr. Miiller has found it absolutely'M<:eSSat"!Jto have a hom~ of our own whenever this has been practicable, because we have found by experience, that staying for lltllYlength of time at the houses of friends, has drawn far too much upon his time • and strength, and has· been so fatiguing, that, except under particular cir.cumstances,he has been compelled to give it up. I desire now to close this record of our travels, by expressing our deep gratitooeto the Lord, for all His many mercies to us, in the course of these extensive missionary Tours. Times without number we have been shielded from danger ; during our long journeys by rail-
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l OF GEORGE MULLER. 315 way, no accidents have ever befallen us, and though manytimestossed about on board ship upon the ocean, during storms and tempests, we have never been ship- wrecked, nor have we really suffered from these _long voyages in the least. Many of these blessings, I doubt not, we owe to the prayers of Christian friends, whose supplications on our behalf I would therefore earnestly ask them to cootinue.I would also remind the believing reader of the foregoing pages, that we have but " one'brief life,"that we know not how soon our earthly pilgrimage may end, and that we should seek, withall earnestness, to devote that " one 'brieflife " to God; and should this book be directed into the hands of unconverted persons, to such I would say, ask the Lord to shew you, by the teaching of His Holy Spirit, .that you are lost, ruined, and undone ; put your trust in the Lord Jesus Christ alone,for· pardon and salvation ; and see~ to live only for Him. Time is short ; delay is dangerous ; and the stu- pendous realities of an eternal world will soonbi:eak in upon us. Dear reader, where will you spend eteJmity? THE END. DRYDEN PRESS: J• DAVY&; SONS, 137, LONG ACRE, LONDON.
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